Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks!
I think some late MY 98's had the SOHC, but if not, I am fairly certain that the 99's were all SOHC. Regardless, they do indeed exist.
check out the engine specs for the 06 Legacys(non turbo)
http://www.subaru.com/shop/specifications.jsp?year=2006&model=LEGACY&trim=25I_SP- ECIAL_EDITION_SEDAN
and its been like that since the turn of this century
>But, the 2.5 liter engine belt is replaced every 105K.
you are absolutely correct and my memory was at fault, mea culpa! I just remembered it was more than 60K and not the 90 I mentioned. I have a 98 Legacy GT with the 2.5 DOHC, I actually changed my belt at 60K as I had an oil leak which they needed to fix under warranty and the dealer said it would cost only a little more than the parts to do the timing belt at the same time as pretty much all the labor they needed to do the leak would also be needed for the timing belt. They actually ended up having Subaru cover the cost of the belt change too as they said it was "damaged" by the oil leak! One advantage of having the Subaru extended warranty, they have a tendency to do freebies for you, they also once changed the HVAC bulbs in the dash for free which is an uncovered item. I paid almost 2 hours labor to have that done on an older Legacy I had. IIRC saved just under hundred bucks with that free timing belt.
I've actually been changing the belt at 60K intervals as when it was 120K, I figured I should get a new water pump for sure (having had very bad experiences with Acuras and water pumps going out at even less mileage) and again there is only a little more labor necessary to change the timing belt if you are going for the water pump.
I think the basic jist of it all is that the manufacturers recommended 105K is more than adequate and 60 K was way excessive for the 2.2 as everyone in CA didn't have a problem changing it at 105K! Just as the rest of the world seems to do fine on 10K oil changes!
Interesting that the 06s use a SOHC.
Now, I need yours and any other knowledable Suby owners help with my latest problem.
Took the battery out tonight to get at #2 and #4 spark plug. I leftthe key in the ignition and had one rear window open. When I reconnect the battery, the alarm triggered. I disconeected the battery, removed the key form the ignition, connected the battery again, and the same think.
Any ideas on how to immediately deactivate the alarm once I connect the battery?
I remeber on my 95, you had to turn the door lock with the key. Will this work on the 98? Also, really curious as to why disconnectiong the battery would mess with the alarm.
Thanks for any help
Unfortunately, this did nothing as we found out last weekend on a road trip. I took it back in, and then the service agent called to tell me that he acknowledged something wasn't quite right, but that he'd need to keep it another day. The next day he told me that there was nothing wrong with it. In fact, he said, it is normal for the 06's to do that. He took me for a ride in another 06 and it did have a similar cycle, though it didn't do it when idling (mine does it all the time).
I was excited about this Outback, but I'm afraid I'm going to regret that I bought a Subaru. If this is true of 06's, surely I can't be the only one experiencing this? Any suggestions?
-juice
This problem only occurs under the above stated conditions--otherwise the car is great.
The dealer can not/will not replicate the conditions--they don't want to drive the two hours up to Tahoe!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. DonM
How is the ATF level now? Any burned smell?
-juice
I have a big problem.. my car has 104K , I've changed the timming belt 2 mo ago,.. oil every 3 mo, BUT 2 weeks ago the engine start making a lot of noise and it's even worst whe you accelerate I took it to my mecanic, I start the car and 3 seconds later he tels me that the engine needs to be replaced because some bearing inside the engine is broken or something...Is it possible?? What should I do?
Thanks...
There is no other cchanges in the engine, besides the fact that the engine runs but w/o power. No smoke or oil consumption, oil mixed with antifreeze(it's not the head gasket)... Today or tomorrow another mecanic is going to take a look at it.. I will let you know!
I wish these groups had server space like Yahoogroups to post pictures for those logged in to see - oh well I guess that was what I was expecting when I logged on the first time.
Thanks for taking the pics and uploading them.
1MR2
Has anyone had this problem? Has anyone had a short block replaced in response to this problem? Is this a problem I can live with, or is it a must repair? This problem does not seem to affect performance, but might it not have ramifications for other engine parts?
The reason I suggest a second opinion is that there should be no "might be" about this diagnosis. If the dealer isn't sure, perhaps it is piston slap or a loose crankshaft pulley or some such, which may not require a short block.
Have you owned the car since new? Oil changes regularly? How's the timing belt tension? At that mileage, it should be changed (check your owner manual for things to do at that mileage). If you change the belt, you should do the tensioner and water pump as well.
-Brian
Also, the end of the weatherstrip above the right side rear window is not flush against the body (it sticks out a little). Would it be ok to apply some sealant to hold it in?
Thanks for any feedback.
What is happening is that bulb is dual filament and has 2 modes of operating, the signal and hazzards make the bulb glow the brightest, the parking/headlights make it glow on the low setting. Typically if the bright filamaent breaks the power will backfeed through the other filament. I forgot how it was wired to make this so but know that's what is happening.
Also replace the licence plate light as well.
I too have a recently purchased 06 OBW. The answer to your lighting question is "no" - the "set" , "+", and "-" buttons for the clock do not illuminate (at least they don't on my 06 OBW and my brothers 06 OBW - yes, we each bought one within a few months of each other! )
I too am also have some right-sided wheather stripping isses - am debating as to whether I want the dealer to "fix" them or not . . .
-Outbike
The weatherstripping for me is on the side of the car at the top rear side window. It sticks out a little and is not flush/tight like the other side. I made an appointment with the dealer in a week to have them check it out. Hope this doesn't create other problems. I'm the type of guy that does all the work on my own house. Windows, tear down walls, build walls, headers, ect....I just don't trust others too much to do a really good job. If it's not perfect that ok b/c I did it myself, but for almost $23,000 the weatherstripping should fit nice.
When I get the clutch to and past the engagement point, it gets kind of spongy-stiff and makes a squeaking noise (not a wimpy squeak either, more of a groaning squeak - "Skroiiiink!"). I mainly hear it when I am at a stop and shifting into first or reverse, though I suspect it does it all the time, I just can not hear it over the engine and road noise. Also, this problem appears only after it has been driven about 15 minutes... so when I get in the car in the AM, it is nice and quiet.
It is not coming from the pedal assembly, sounds like it is coming from the slave cylinder (which I believe is the little black do-hicky mounted on top of the tranny, under that big black box do-hicky). I had my GF wang on the pedal while I hunted for the source of the sound under the hood (so obviously it does it if the car is running or not).
Can’t say when this started as I just got the car used (didn’t do it on the test drive). It has 40K miles.
Otherwise, the car shifts just fine. No slippage, grinding, lurching, can’t find gears, anything like that. It is just a loud annoying noise that I have never heard on any of the 4 other 5 speeds I have owned.
So: question is, what if anything can be done about it? How serious is this?
For yours, if it uses brake fluid, I would consider bleeding the system first, to see if that helps. Ask someone who has done this, because I'm not sure if Subies are the same.
-juice
Hope this helps, stucko
Regards,
Owen
-juice
I don’t see anything loose under the car and off hand it does not sound like an exhaust system problem. I thought at first maybe the speedometer cable but it now makes the sound when stopped also. I’ll probably take it in soon but am tied up for a week or two and assume it is nothing urgent. Any ideas? Anyone had anything like this?
2 weeks ago, the alternator went out again! The mechanic said he saw that there had been a recall on the original alternator in 2000. Wish I'd have known that!
Now for my question related to that: is it normal for a car to go through that many alternators?
Second round. (Yes I still love the car!)
The car feels like it pulls really hard when I've ran the A/C for 15 min+ on super hot days. Sometimes I have to just turn it off because it feels like it's going to kill the poor thing! It makes a clicking sound and the car has a "I think I can, I think I can!" attitude. I've taken it into 3 different places who say there's nothing wrong with it. (They drive it around the block and of course - nothing!) It doesn't need to be recharged. Any ideas what I can have them look at?
Third and final question, how hard is it to fix an antenna? I only get the 3 most powerful stations in the area come in even when I replaced the radio. If I go 3 miles outside town, I lose those 3 even. The CD player works fine though!
Thanks for any help!
I think this is normal. With 147k miles on the clock the engine probably isn't making the same power it did when it was brand new. Don't feel bad, my Miata has just 62k miles!
Alternator - well the first one was bad, the 2nd lasted years. That's not too bad. Make sure the installer puts the right tension on the drive belt.
-juice
Antennae - hmm, it would seem that this would be on or off, not broken. Maybe it disconnected from the back of the radio? Though you might not get any signal at all if that were the case. You can get a cheap replacement at WalMart but you have to access the rear of the stereo to plug it in.