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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • k1morrowk1morrow Member Posts: 5
    Thanks mike for the info I will be trying to get this corrected? Does it require a complete tear down as they did when putting the new one on? k1morrow
  • k1morrowk1morrow Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the help. We will be working to solve this issue. k1morrow
  • jeffttjefftt Member Posts: 3
    Fixed cracked y-pipe.
    Welder at muffler shop did it for $20.
    Sounds much better.
    Did more Techron.
    But MIL still came on solid and blinking.
    Dealer tomorrow morning if no other suggestions received.
    Jeff
  • artistwcarartistwcar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Outback Legacy
    I have taken it to 3 different mechanics, who wont work on it, not familiar with Subaru's, so I took it to Subaru Dealership, and they have had it for a week, now they are telling me they dont really want to tear it down, because it might be a cracked block or a cracked head. We know it is a cracked head gasket, and told them so, now they are saying it wont start, its dumping fuel into the engine, that it is a waste of time to tear it down, because its probably a cracked block.
    Any suggestions? Please help me, I love my subaru!
  • k1morrowk1morrow Member Posts: 5
    If the timing belt is off 1 0r 2 teeth will everything have to come back off( radiator, electronic cooling fans, belts ect.) to get the marks lined up correctly? any thoughts on getting things lined up right with out a manual of any kind? k1morrow
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Regrettably, yes, you have to dig all the way back in there. Lining up the timing belt is incredibly easy, assuming the sprockets are marked as with later model years:

    First, rotate the crank (with belt on) until it is in TDC position (should be a mark on the sprocket). Then, remove the tensioner and pull the belt. Align the cam sprockets (is this a SOHC or DOHC engine) so that 1), on a DOHC, the sprocket marks are facing each other - top pointed down, bottom pointed up and directly at the mark on the upper sprocket or 2), on a SOHC, the marks are pointed up (I think - better get confirmation on this). Reset your tensioner with the pin (or appropriate method) and have it in place to set tension on the belt when you have it reinstalled.

    Then, you set the point of the timing belt that has the dotted line (lines should be on the back - smooth side - of the belt if it is new) on the crankshaft sprocket so that it lines up with the TDC mark. Working toward YOUR right (toward driver side of car), thread the belt onto the idler pulleys and sprockets so that the next line (all the rest of the lines should be solid) runs directly across the top of the sprocket, then down so that the next line is directly across the right side of the lower sprocket (if DOHC). There should be an alignment mark either on the sprocket or on the back of the plastic housing for this one. Continuing, thread through the idlers, water pump, etc, SKIP the last idler (should be a toothed idler) and align the marks on the cam sprockets to the left side. After you have done this, the belt should be on other than the one skipped idler to the bottom. At this point, pull the belt up so that it is engaged on that idler. Verify that all the marks are still correct, THEN release the tensioner. At this point, you can rotate the crank and move all the camshafts in time. I usually do a full rotation - slowly - and verify that everything is in perfect alignment when it comes back around to TDC. If it is, close it up and call it good!

    Take it slowly and carefully, as bumping the cam sprockets can often send them "snapping" out of alignment. It can be a frustrating job with just one person (actually, it can be frustrating even with MORE than one person!), but it is fairly straight forward to get things together properly.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Gaskets were a well known issue, but if it overheated badly enough that would've warped the heads.

    I don't know if I've ever seen a cracked block, though. It is alloy, not iron, so it wouldn't respond well to overheating.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I would not suspect a cracked block/head either, unless there have been some serious overheating instances. Regardless, it is an expensive repair. But, if it is the block that is cracked, I would say it is prohibitively expensive.

    If you want to fix it though, then it is worth the diagnosis to determine the root problem. Keep your head on square, though, when it comes to having the repair work performed! "Love" of a car is often a losing proposition! :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, gotta know when to cut your losses.

    My dad kept fixing a '92 Taurus that fell apart. That thing became a money pit. He spent more than it was worth 3 times over. :cry:

    Our 626 started to fall apart but we ditched it and got a Legacy. So far, so good, 5 years later it's been solid.

    -juice
  • vpekulasvpekulas Member Posts: 14
    Hi fellow Subaru owners :)

    I've recently went to NY City with the purpose to buy a 2005 Outback 2.5L. Simply put I love the car, it's a wast improvement over my 01 OB H6, even power wise it seem "almost" equal.

    Though me being a Canadian I do have one pet peeve with the car, in Canada we use kilometers not miles as in the States and since I'm lazy I'd like to switch the measurements to metric units.

    I don't mean the dash tickers since that's mechanical, but I'd like to see the average/immediate gas consumption, the miles to empty value etc. switched to kilometers from miles.

    Is there anything I can do to make it happen ? Is there a CD I can load to it with new firmware ?

    Thanks for your insight!
  • kenpeacockkenpeacock Member Posts: 5
    didn't catch mine in the act ... Did finally fix the misfire cyl. #2 after more dancin' Tried a coil pack switch (put a 2004 imprezza pack on the 2000 legacy). Improved response even though not the exact part number (last number different -- probably a better -hotter? -- coil pack) MIL still on & again set cyl. #2 misfire code & the car didn't idle well. Replaced injector with a new one from Subaru -- fixed problem, & the light went out. Celebration time. Parts guy told me that the ethanol in our CT gas is increasingly damaging various fuel parts. He said he used to sell a few knock sensors a year - now regularly needs 3 or 4 a week. Guess that's the next thing I'll look to replace on our 2000 legacy. thanks again all for the misfire advice. -- ken
  • kenpeacockkenpeacock Member Posts: 5
    hi Jeff -- yes - it was an injector. I replied to the Chipmonk picture with more detail on the process I went through. This site functions a bit differently than others I've used -- on sign in it wouldn't get me back directly to responses to my original thread, so I responded to the other one. Maybe some website optimization could be helpful? Anyway, if you can't find my other message, I can repost if needed. best, -- ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Ken,

    Excellent! So it was the injector. Thanks for the feedback.

    Steve
  • npbdnpbd Member Posts: 4
    I have 2002 outback ( it's my understanding that legacy and outback are the same from engine side)
    2.5l Manual trans with over 135K miles and I would like to replace/swap the engine because of havy smoke and coolant and oil are mixing together.

    My question is do I need 2002 engine or 2003, 2001 engine will do the job? Does AT and MT have the same engine?

    I am looking for like to like swap hardware (mounting bracket, wire, etc..)

    Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    There are no engine differences between AT and MT. There *could* be compatibility issues between years, but if you retain sensors and wiring from your current engine and only swap in the replacement engine, there should not be any problems. The mechanicals are the same, but sometimes the ECU mapping, sensors, etc, change. I hear this is commonly a problem when performing JDM engine swaps into USDM applications.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Actually you want to get the same year, same style (AT or MT) engine to replace it. Each year they change some of the connectors and you definitely don't want to switch between AT and MT. I tried to do that on my dad's legacy and we had to swap out a ton of stuff including the intake manifold which is different between AT and MT.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Really? I am thinking along the lines of a long block (block w/ heads) rather than a complete nut-and-bolt replacement. I would be very surprised if the engine itself was different (between MT & AT), but then these new-fangled cars.... :confuse: Any excuse to toss in a little change seems to be a good one! ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you go longblock probably not a whole lot difference, however you can get for not much more money a used complete engine which would be a drop-in effort rather than a matter of swapping over sensors etc.

    -mike
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    I have an 01 Outback LTD that is having it's headgaskets replaced to fix oil leaks on both sides. One side was done ~40K ago as part of a leak of coolant, now this requires both sides to be fixed.
    As part of the repair I have decided to change the timing belt because the engine will be apart.
    The question is should the water pump be replaced at the same time. I have owned Hondas in the past and the mechanics always suggested that it be changed at the same time as the timing belt since it is also off at the same time. Not being a student on the Subaru engine arrangement setup is it a good idea?
    The timing belt will be an add on of ~$100, approximately how much will a water pump be to change it as well? What I wonder, might be the cost if it needs replacement later?
    What is the 'normal' life of a water pump?
    Thanks in advance!
    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    What is the mileage on the car at this time? In general, I would say yes - replace the pump. I am trying to remember the price of the water pump, but I think the one for my '96 was about $160 for the part (Napa). There should be no additional labor cost if done as part of the head gasket work. My water pump failed at ~173K miles. I had been in there two prior times and was just too naive to replace it then. :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yes, I would do it. The labor is already paid for.
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Member Posts: 72
    I've done some searching (here and other places) and think I know what's going on, but want to post just to be sure.

    I have a 2002 OBW with 85k miles. Been driving manual xmissions all my life. The past 2 days, my clutch has slipped 3 times. We're having some crazy weather here in the northeast. I'm sure I haven't burned it out. Lots of highway miles plus I know how to be good to the clutch.

    Why is my clutch slipping?

    My conclusion is that it has to do with the hydraulics. Either they need to be bled or have collected some moisture. While it was at the airport waiting for me to get home from being stranded, the wind blew snow and packed it in underneath the car. Maybe some now got into the system?

    So my next question is how do I bleed the clutch and what's the best fluid to use?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't think it's hydraulics. At 85K it could just be worn out, like brakes. Clutches are expendable items over time.

    With bad hydraulics, the clutch would fail to engage...you couldn't get it in gear. The hydraulics control clutch release, not engagement, which is done by spring pressure.

    I think you have to face up to a clutch replacement---but sure, bleed and adjust, you have nothing to lose but an hour's time.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I had a leaky clutch slave cylinder on a Miata and the symptoms were a bit strange, but basically I felt a spongy pedal that went soft at times. I also noticed the brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir dropped significantly.

    At first I topped it off, but when the fluid level dropped again I did some research and found out the slave cylinder was the most likely culprit.

    Indeed, I got a rebuild kit for under $11 and fixed it myself. The reservoir is in the engine bay, and the slave cylinder is accessible from underneath, in front of the trans.

    That's a Mazda, not sure how different Subarus are because I never looked. :confuse:
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Member Posts: 72
    In the meantime I've also found a Subaru technical service bulletin, applicable to my car, that addresses the clutch pedal "not returning completely after being engaged" that "may affect certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system under certain weather conditions".

    the bulletin describes how to change the slave cylinder, hose, and gaskets as a remedy.

    shiftright - I appreciate what you're saying, but I won't go down the $1000 repair path (or whatever it costs) until I can rule out the cheaper, simpler fixes first.

    ateixeira - I walked it down over lunch. The slave cylinder is readily accessible from the engine compartment. All I really need to do is remove the air filter housing and it's right there.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Cool.

    Now I'm curious, so next time I change my air filter I'll have a look, possibly even bleed the system.

    FWIW my Miata was 8 years old at the time and the fluid looked like melted milk chocolate. Yuck. It's supposed to be clear brake fluid! :surprise:
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Member Posts: 72
    What's the best fluid to use? I see no reason to skimp on such a little bit of brake fluid.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I was just preparing you for the worst but of course I wish you the best!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I used plain old DOT-3 brake fluid for my Miata, but see if that's what Subaru specs call for (very likely they do).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Best fluid for the money is ATE Superblue. About $15 for a container.

    -mike
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    I took the advice offered and had both the Water Pump ($140) and Timing Belt ($75) replaced. It took the mechanic ~ 6hrs to do both heads. While they were there according to list of parts a thermostat was also installed.
    I hope the job lasts until trade-in time ~20-40K miles.
    The sheet that I saw mentioned some thing about Piston Slap. Could someone refresh my mind on this. Is it something to worry about? I think I remember many 2.5's have it.
    Bob
  • zberkzberk Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    Does anyone have a clue where to find the exterior door moulding (lower panel) for a 2000 Outback in Gold (or is it Champagne)?

    Also looking for instructions on replacing said part.

    I've looked for hours to no avail...

    TIA
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Is it enough to bleed an entire brake system? Or do you need more than one?
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    In the last day or so I looked in my engine compartment to see the newly installed Water Pump. Should it be visible or is it "out of site". I thought it would be "bright and shiny" and easily be visible. Was I wrong on both accounts?
    Thanks in advance.
    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Water pump is internal behind your timing belt covers. You won't see a thing.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Not from the top or front, anyway. If you crawl underneath the car, you can see the bottom of it just above the thermostat housing where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • turnsignalturnsignal Member Posts: 1
    Trying to change the front driver's side turn signal bulb on a 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon. I don't have the owner's manual and can't figure out how to access the light. Any ideas? The dome light is also burnt out -- ideas here?
  • mhschmidtmhschmidt Member Posts: 2
    what is the verdict on a head gasket repair? some say the new gaskets will last another 100,000 mi, (actually, another 96,000 mi), others say they will blow again, one guy even said it was the cylinder sleeve and to replace the head gasket is treating the symptom, not a cure. he said get a new engine.
    what say you??
  • lpcoutbacklpcoutback Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the catalytic converter on my '02 Legacy Outback, and finances dictate that I use an aftermarket part. While I can find CCs designated for pre-2000 Outbacks, the only parts I can find for my vehicle are catalogued under Subaru Legacy. Is there any reason why a Legacy CC would not work? Is any one aftermarket brand better than the others? (I have found parts made by Catco and Eastern Catalytic.) Thanks for your input.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would look for an aftermarket CC even a performance one and they usually go for about $99, then spend another $100 or so to have it installed. A subaru specific may run $500+

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Hard to say. Sometimes the problem recurs, sometimes it does not. If your first set of gaskets lasted 96K and 11 years, chances are that replacement gaskets will take you through the remaining life of your intended ownership - if the head surfaces are checked for flatness (and machined if necessary) prior to installation. Did you have any overheating issues associated with the failure of the current gaskets?

    In terms of cost, it all depends on whether this ~$2000 repair is a worthwhile investment for you. That's about 5 months worth of car payments if you finance a new one, so if the repair gives you 6 months or more of reliable driving, then you are ahead of the game. *shrugs* If it was my old '96, at the mileage I had on it today (which would be about 226,000), I would fix it (myself again).... but I would grumble about it the whole time. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mhschmidtmhschmidt Member Posts: 2
    thanks for responding. it's been having big overheatig issues. i am pretty sure the radiator is cracked and will need replacing. i am worried about other internal damaged that might creap up and bite me in the [non-permissible content removed] later.
  • janice96janice96 Member Posts: 19
    I'm getting hesitation driving along when accelerating. It was so bad today I didn't think I was going to make it home.Fuel filter, pluggs,plug wires,air filter were replaced at 85,000 Now has 108,000. I added some dry gas when I got home. Haven't driven it yet, so don't know if this has helped. Maybe fuel pump???? Doesn't seem to do this starting out and it starts right up. Any thoughts on what my problem is?
    Janice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Could be the intake manifold temp sensor. If it happens when the car is warmed up but not when it's cold. Could also be a fuel injector. Are you getting any Check Engine Lights?

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    The most typical residual issues of overheating are warped heads and a cracked block, either of which are very expensive repairs as they require replacement of major components.

    If you are getting coolant in your oil, I would at least scrap the engine. If not, and it can be verified that the block and heads are okay, I would still go ahead with it. But again, I would do the work myself, so the financial burden is much less.

    If the repair comes with peace of mind, then it might be worth it. If not, then perhaps it is time to move on. :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • janice96janice96 Member Posts: 19
    Thats the strange thing about it. No Check Engine Lights at all. I have put 2 bottles of Iso in and drove it to work about 10 miles it didn't act up.I will be traveling more of a distance Thursday. So I'm crossing my fingers hoping the dry gas works.If it doesn't I guess the next thing to try will be replacing Fuel filter and running some good injector cleaner through it. Think that will work??
    janice
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    My 2000 OB clutch wore out (slipping) at 60,000 km. I've always driven manuals and haven't worn one out since about 1969. I tow a tent trailer with this car, but I was still dismayed. Told by unsympathetic dealership that they simply don't last long nowadays due to no asbestos.

    After clutch replacement we had the pedal stick down once. My wife was driving and thought it had broken, but it turned out that it could be pulled up by hand, and after a few "sticky" occasions it freed itself completely. Something to do with operating in a different region of the slave cylinder?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would bleed the fluid out of the system completely.

    That doesn't sound right to me at all.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Chances are your clutch wasn't bad. It's a known thing that the clutch master or slave goes bad and the pedal sticks, this also makes it appear that the car is slipping so they hit you with a clutch replacement.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The clutch slave on my Miata went bad and I fixed it with a $10.74 repair kit and a bottle of brake fluid. :shades:

    Still good 2 years later.
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