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Comments
Welder at muffler shop did it for $20.
Sounds much better.
Did more Techron.
But MIL still came on solid and blinking.
Dealer tomorrow morning if no other suggestions received.
Jeff
I have taken it to 3 different mechanics, who wont work on it, not familiar with Subaru's, so I took it to Subaru Dealership, and they have had it for a week, now they are telling me they dont really want to tear it down, because it might be a cracked block or a cracked head. We know it is a cracked head gasket, and told them so, now they are saying it wont start, its dumping fuel into the engine, that it is a waste of time to tear it down, because its probably a cracked block.
Any suggestions? Please help me, I love my subaru!
First, rotate the crank (with belt on) until it is in TDC position (should be a mark on the sprocket). Then, remove the tensioner and pull the belt. Align the cam sprockets (is this a SOHC or DOHC engine) so that 1), on a DOHC, the sprocket marks are facing each other - top pointed down, bottom pointed up and directly at the mark on the upper sprocket or 2), on a SOHC, the marks are pointed up (I think - better get confirmation on this). Reset your tensioner with the pin (or appropriate method) and have it in place to set tension on the belt when you have it reinstalled.
Then, you set the point of the timing belt that has the dotted line (lines should be on the back - smooth side - of the belt if it is new) on the crankshaft sprocket so that it lines up with the TDC mark. Working toward YOUR right (toward driver side of car), thread the belt onto the idler pulleys and sprockets so that the next line (all the rest of the lines should be solid) runs directly across the top of the sprocket, then down so that the next line is directly across the right side of the lower sprocket (if DOHC). There should be an alignment mark either on the sprocket or on the back of the plastic housing for this one. Continuing, thread through the idlers, water pump, etc, SKIP the last idler (should be a toothed idler) and align the marks on the cam sprockets to the left side. After you have done this, the belt should be on other than the one skipped idler to the bottom. At this point, pull the belt up so that it is engaged on that idler. Verify that all the marks are still correct, THEN release the tensioner. At this point, you can rotate the crank and move all the camshafts in time. I usually do a full rotation - slowly - and verify that everything is in perfect alignment when it comes back around to TDC. If it is, close it up and call it good!
Take it slowly and carefully, as bumping the cam sprockets can often send them "snapping" out of alignment. It can be a frustrating job with just one person (actually, it can be frustrating even with MORE than one person!), but it is fairly straight forward to get things together properly.
I don't know if I've ever seen a cracked block, though. It is alloy, not iron, so it wouldn't respond well to overheating.
-juice
If you want to fix it though, then it is worth the diagnosis to determine the root problem. Keep your head on square, though, when it comes to having the repair work performed! "Love" of a car is often a losing proposition! :sick:
My dad kept fixing a '92 Taurus that fell apart. That thing became a money pit. He spent more than it was worth 3 times over.
Our 626 started to fall apart but we ditched it and got a Legacy. So far, so good, 5 years later it's been solid.
-juice
I've recently went to NY City with the purpose to buy a 2005 Outback 2.5L. Simply put I love the car, it's a wast improvement over my 01 OB H6, even power wise it seem "almost" equal.
Though me being a Canadian I do have one pet peeve with the car, in Canada we use kilometers not miles as in the States and since I'm lazy I'd like to switch the measurements to metric units.
I don't mean the dash tickers since that's mechanical, but I'd like to see the average/immediate gas consumption, the miles to empty value etc. switched to kilometers from miles.
Is there anything I can do to make it happen ? Is there a CD I can load to it with new firmware ?
Thanks for your insight!
Excellent! So it was the injector. Thanks for the feedback.
Steve
2.5l Manual trans with over 135K miles and I would like to replace/swap the engine because of havy smoke and coolant and oil are mixing together.
My question is do I need 2002 engine or 2003, 2001 engine will do the job? Does AT and MT have the same engine?
I am looking for like to like swap hardware (mounting bracket, wire, etc..)
Thanks.
-mike
-mike
As part of the repair I have decided to change the timing belt because the engine will be apart.
The question is should the water pump be replaced at the same time. I have owned Hondas in the past and the mechanics always suggested that it be changed at the same time as the timing belt since it is also off at the same time. Not being a student on the Subaru engine arrangement setup is it a good idea?
The timing belt will be an add on of ~$100, approximately how much will a water pump be to change it as well? What I wonder, might be the cost if it needs replacement later?
What is the 'normal' life of a water pump?
Thanks in advance!
Bob
I have a 2002 OBW with 85k miles. Been driving manual xmissions all my life. The past 2 days, my clutch has slipped 3 times. We're having some crazy weather here in the northeast. I'm sure I haven't burned it out. Lots of highway miles plus I know how to be good to the clutch.
Why is my clutch slipping?
My conclusion is that it has to do with the hydraulics. Either they need to be bled or have collected some moisture. While it was at the airport waiting for me to get home from being stranded, the wind blew snow and packed it in underneath the car. Maybe some now got into the system?
So my next question is how do I bleed the clutch and what's the best fluid to use?
With bad hydraulics, the clutch would fail to engage...you couldn't get it in gear. The hydraulics control clutch release, not engagement, which is done by spring pressure.
I think you have to face up to a clutch replacement---but sure, bleed and adjust, you have nothing to lose but an hour's time.
At first I topped it off, but when the fluid level dropped again I did some research and found out the slave cylinder was the most likely culprit.
Indeed, I got a rebuild kit for under $11 and fixed it myself. The reservoir is in the engine bay, and the slave cylinder is accessible from underneath, in front of the trans.
That's a Mazda, not sure how different Subarus are because I never looked. :confuse:
the bulletin describes how to change the slave cylinder, hose, and gaskets as a remedy.
shiftright - I appreciate what you're saying, but I won't go down the $1000 repair path (or whatever it costs) until I can rule out the cheaper, simpler fixes first.
ateixeira - I walked it down over lunch. The slave cylinder is readily accessible from the engine compartment. All I really need to do is remove the air filter housing and it's right there.
Now I'm curious, so next time I change my air filter I'll have a look, possibly even bleed the system.
FWIW my Miata was 8 years old at the time and the fluid looked like melted milk chocolate. Yuck. It's supposed to be clear brake fluid! :surprise:
-mike
I hope the job lasts until trade-in time ~20-40K miles.
The sheet that I saw mentioned some thing about Piston Slap. Could someone refresh my mind on this. Is it something to worry about? I think I remember many 2.5's have it.
Bob
Does anyone have a clue where to find the exterior door moulding (lower panel) for a 2000 Outback in Gold (or is it Champagne)?
Also looking for instructions on replacing said part.
I've looked for hours to no avail...
TIA
Thanks in advance.
Bob
-mike
what say you??
-mike
In terms of cost, it all depends on whether this ~$2000 repair is a worthwhile investment for you. That's about 5 months worth of car payments if you finance a new one, so if the repair gives you 6 months or more of reliable driving, then you are ahead of the game. *shrugs* If it was my old '96, at the mileage I had on it today (which would be about 226,000), I would fix it (myself again).... but I would grumble about it the whole time.
Janice
-mike
If you are getting coolant in your oil, I would at least scrap the engine. If not, and it can be verified that the block and heads are okay, I would still go ahead with it. But again, I would do the work myself, so the financial burden is much less.
If the repair comes with peace of mind, then it might be worth it. If not, then perhaps it is time to move on.
janice
After clutch replacement we had the pedal stick down once. My wife was driving and thought it had broken, but it turned out that it could be pulled up by hand, and after a few "sticky" occasions it freed itself completely. Something to do with operating in a different region of the slave cylinder?
That doesn't sound right to me at all.
-mike
Still good 2 years later.