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Comments
"read 4WD"?
Krzys
Tires, like always, make a huge difference.
They make bags to be filled with water that can go in the bed of a pickup to get some weight over the rear axle, but if you are going to make the bed more difficult to use and add weight that will invoke a MPG penalty, why not just be comfortable in a Subaru?
-mike
PS: ABLS is Anti-lock Brake Limit Slip, this gives you an LSD in both the front and rear which is AWSOME in snow.
It gives traction control in the form of limiting power output, not limited slip. Not really a big deal in snow, but a big difference in performance situations (although I don't see many Armadas at track events unless they are towing something there).
My outback started developing intermittent shifting problem, in first gear, that was more prevalent after the car was driven for a while, and then stopped. If it were left to sit for more than 5 minutes, it wouldn’t shift out of first gear, with out stopping and trying again. It has begun to happen more and more often. My regular repair shop didn’t pull up any codes, even though they could recreated the issue. The next stop was the dealer. They suggested a regular tranny service, even though it had already been done earlier in the year. They test road it. They suggested a power flush, and sent me on my way. Now the problem happens all the time. The fluid has been change 2 more times, to no avail. The tranny finally got stuck in first the other day, and wouldn’t work again, until after sitting all night. The dealer’s check still shows no code, but they go, as far as to say that the tranny is NOT serviceable. They reference a bulletin from Subaru that says to not attempt rebuilds, but to offer a re-manufactured tranny. They won’t even tell me what’s wrong! My warranty expired over a year ago, and I’m a little put off at the fact that I’m looking at a couple thousand dollars to fix a car that’s less than 10 years old with only 102K! I really do love my car, but they’re telling me that the car’s not even worth the repair? Is this true? Is there somewhere/ someplace I can find out what exactly my problem is? I don’t want to get rid of my car, especially with the way it handles so well in the snow, but I’m not really sure what else I can do. —Thanks, Tirebuster420.
So, has it been flushed with solvents to remove any glazes and grime that could be causing or exacerbating the problem? And, has the filter been changed?
It certainly seems pointless to just flush the fluid out if the fluid is new. It seems a no-brainer that such a flush would not solve anything.
I had a leak in our old 626 and the grease spilled on O2 sensor and ruined that part as well. So fix it soon.
-juice
I had a leak in our old 626 and the grease spilled on O2 sensor and ruined that part as well. So fix it soon.
-juice
Go by the style, do you prefer the old look or the new bigger-grilled face?
-juice
Dibs on the rims.
JUST KIDDING!
-juice
-juice
The solvent flush is fairly caustic, so I have heard that it is not something to be done as "preventative maintenance." But, if it will keep you from having to replace the transmission, then it is well worth it!
Do not feel like you must have this done through the dealer - often times there are far more competent independent shops around!
Thanks in advance.
This is facing the left side of undercarriage, with the front of vehicle is the top of the image.
http://njjuliano.smugmug.com/photos/123117530-L.jpg
That's the strap that seems to have been cut. It is the part that tucks under the access hatch.
Here's another connection that keeps the hatch in place that seemed to have been ripped as well, same orientation as the above pic.
http://njjuliano.smugmug.com/photos/123117534-L.jpg
Here's the view from the front of the vehicle and how it hangs. My hand in the picture so show some perspective. I have very minimal pressure on the piece, if any.
http://njjuliano.smugmug.com/photos/123117544-L.jpg
Here is what it is supposed to do.
http://njjuliano.smugmug.com/photos/123117548-L.jpg
And here's a view of the other side, and what it should look like.
http://njjuliano.smugmug.com/photos/123117552-L.jpg
I just had an oil change on the 3rd. Went to a new place, and just wanted to get it done. Pretty routine thing. Had some minor alarms go when the oil change guy couldnt figure out how to open the hood. Had to go to him and tell him how.
Its my wife's vehicle, and I only noticed the protruding part as I was doing my routine checking the car for dents and and anything weird as I was driving away in our other vehicle.
Is it possible that something was hit that dislodged it? It looks alarmingly like it was cut to access the oil filter. I'm heading for the lube place to ask for some explanation, but knowing I have no way of showing fault, I'm going with a "Hey, did you happen to notice this?" demeanor.
Also 2 of the 3 screw fasteners weren't there as well. Just cant figure out how this can happen with an accidental bottoming out.
Thoughts?
I had the radio repaired at a Audio/Stereo Shop here in South Jersey. I asked for a recommendation from the dealer, and he went ahead and gave me the guys they use. If you're in the area, and need the actual name, let me know, I'm sure I can look it up.
It's also possible that those screw fasteners not being there are a coicidence. They could have never been there or vibrated out as the car has been driven.
Cant see replacing it, since its part of the big housing. I might have to just cut off that whole piece, and just put in new fasteners.
Did your end piece have scrapes on it? What did you do with it in the end?
Go back and pitch a fit and send them the bill from the dealer.
VDC- limits power by cutting the throttle.
ABLS- applies the brake to a slipping wheel on an open differential to force the power from the slipping wheel to the wheel with grip, same as a viscous or clutch-pack LSD except that you wear your brakes quicker and it's only a hair less useful than the viscous or mechanical LSDs, it doesn't work well in a track situation because the constant application of the brakes would cause the pads and fluid to overheat (I saw this at Pocono on a MB owned E55AMG they were testing at one of our track days)
Interestingly, you can disable the VDC on the Nissan implementation, but the ABLS stays active even if the VDC is off.
-mike
To me, it sounds like the drain tubes have come off. Has anyone taken apart the inside corners to fix it? My Haynes book doesn't cover those areas, so if someone has instructions, or can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. Car interiors are always a pain, if you don't know what to take apart first or how to pull on what. We take our car to the dealer for real repairs, but minor things like this, I usually handle them if I can find the info on how to do it.
By the way, my wife and I are looking to buy a new Forester or Baja. (That wasn't a solicitation for offers.) We love the Sub's!
Thank you very much!
I managed to break every bit of plastic off the bottom of my car during the years I owned it and I guarantee you that none of the breaks were anywhere near as clean as that! That plastic is very durable and it does not break willingly (though subzero temperatures "help!").
How infuriating. A local Jiffy Lube "forgot" to tighten the oil plug on a friend's new Toyota a few years back - she made it about 50 miles and the engine seized up. Initially, the vendor denied any wrong doing! :surprise:
Will, however, make the phone call, and write it up to Better Business Bureau and take my oil changes, and warning to all my friends and fam's, elsewhere.
Two months later (1K miles) and the car runs fine. However, after a long trip discovered a full coolant reservoir that had small, clear air bubbles coming up through the coolant. Concerned about the bubbles I re-checked with the independent shop who says that it's still fine.
I don't want to have unnecessary work done, but at the same time don't want to be left high and dry on the side of the road. I guess the question is, are the bubbles in the coolant reservoir always a sign of a blown head gasket? Don't know who to trust...
-mike
Just catching up after being absent for a while. Wow! You guys were really lucky based on what your wagon looks like. Too bad, as I know how much you were attached to the OB, and how much care and effort you invested in keeping her running well.
Steve
I spent $450 on PowerSlot 'frozen' rotors and Hawk HPS pads, removed and cleaned the stainless steel springs and the slots they fit into, cleaned and lubed the sliders, etc. Amazing difference in performance, and no re-occurance in any of the above mentioned issues.
Steve
You can probably rig a screw to hold it together, if you want.
-juice
The issue: The air coming out of the passenger-side vents, with the temperature knob set on maximum, the blower on maximum speed, and all dashboard-vents open, is not warm, while the air coming out of the driver's side vents is warm.
The question: What could be the origin?
Thanks, Marc
Not sure about the problem, but it may just be that the system can't supply enough heat for all vents on full blast.
Is it warm with the vent on 1 or 2?
-juice
It's listed at 12,000$CDN, is that a decent price? should all the bugs be worked out by now since it is already 7 years old? they just did a major tune up, but should i be worried about something else popping up in the near future (next year or so)?
thanks for any help
Mikey.
The rotors aren't that expensive. We looked for my dad's 01 Outback and they were $150 for the pair at Advance Auto Parts. Not a big concern, IMO.
-juice
I think it's under the hood, not sure where on your specific model. On the Foresters, it's on the driver's side.
-juice