Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

1128129131133134170

Comments

  • slc_billslc_bill Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 LLbean outback with about 60,000 miles. I have been smelling hot rubber or oil after long trips and took the car in for a 60K maintenance. Otaer this the smell got worse. The shop says that it is due to a slow leak in tht oil cooler and they said they replaced the o-ring . But I found an O ring in the car stil in the package. The smell continues and I have had it with the dealer. Can I replace the o ring myself?
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    they may have replaced the o-ring, and your package is the old one...

    Burned oil smell can take weeks to go away. Are you sure you still have a leak?

    John
  • slc_billslc_bill Member Posts: 2
    It is hard to tell if I still have a leak. There is no evidence on the garage floor. But the smell has been around for several weeks. AND I pressure washed the engine copartment and the under side of the car as best i could. So I do not know what to do other than take it back to the dealer.

    BIll
  • sillydrunksillydrunk Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 97 Legacy Outback limited w/ auto trans. about a year ago. It had 147000KM's on it (about 88000Miles) and seemed to be in excellent shape. So far I haven't had to do anything other than routine maintenance such as oil changes, front brakes, timing belt, tires etc. Has anybody had a front differnetial leak? I have to add gear oil to it about once a month. It seems to be leaking out of the breather lines right onto the exhaust (which stinks). I talked to a Subaru dealer about the problem but they were no help. I also see that head gaskets seem to be an issue so I think I may do a little preventative maintenance there also. Is there any other common problems for this year that I should know about? The transmission often seems to shift funny but the oil is nice and clean so I'm hoping that there is nothing wrong with it. Any info on this would be great. C.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Thanks for the tip about routing the wire through the spare wheel well. I'll keep it in mind if I ever need to go to a larger cable.

    As you can tell from my late response, I have been gone for a time.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Occasionally, I get a light whiff of coolant odor from my 2006 Outback 2.5I. I usually smell it when sitting in a line at a fast food joint.

    I replaced the radiator cap because both gaskets appeared to be pitted. No improvement. The leak isn't large enough to see, but the system is losing coolant slowly. I am about to put in a can a Bars Leaks, which I have used successfully in other vehicles.

    I would appreciate comments from anyone who has had this problem.
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    When not moving, and running the engine, it would be completely normal for the coolant temp to raise, and some escape from the over-flow line, which dumps it under the car. ;)

    Check to make sure the coolant level isn't being kept too high. When the car is cold, check the plastic reservoir, mounted to the side of the radiator, to see if it is above the "cold" line on the side.
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    My Legacy has 42,000 miles on it. Within the past two weeks I too have noticed coolant odor. Since the car was new, 3 years ago, the coolant level has decreased from the full line to the add line. So, I added that small amount to bring it up. I had a mechanic to check for leaks when the oil was changed last week, and he says he saw nothing. Tonight, while sitting at a stoplight, i saw steam coming from under the car. So, when I got home, I see that the head gasket is leaking coolant at the back of the engine on the driver side. Just a few drops, but, enough to smell and wet the oil pan, bolts, etc.

    I called and the quickest my Subaru dealer can see it is Thursday (Sure not like my local Nissan service, which is always same day, ha). Since the antifreeze is leaking 'out' and not much, I think two more days of commuting (~50 miles) will be ok. Hopefully it won't blow going down the road...talk about embarassing!

    Seems the 2000-2002 head gasket problem might just extend to the 2003's. Anyone have any information or seen information on the head gaskets failing on the 2003's? :sick:

    Mark
    2003 Subaru Legacy Special Edition
  • markk1markk1 Member Posts: 30
    Starting this fall my 2000 Outback (90k miles) has started making a ticking sound when it is started. the best I can describe it is the sound of a baseball card in between bicycle spokes. the sound is much more pronounced when it is cold out and goes away after the car warms up. From reading this list sounds like I have the famous Subaru "piston slap". My take away from other posts is don't worry about it? Also i gather unlike a knock putting premium gas in the tank will not make any difference.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    "and some escape from the over-flow line, which dumps it under the car"

    Terry, absolutely not, this is not normal procedure.

    Maybe for a 1963 Ford Econoline, or a 1950 Massey Ferguson tractor. But not a modern car with a properly filled coolant recovery system.

    John
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    With the coolant recovery vessels, I have often found people tend to over-fill, John. Especially owners who tend to be over-cautious with maintenance, "listening", etc.

    Then they sit in traffic because of an accident, for a hour or so, and the excess is bled off, they "smell" something, and begin to imagine all kinds of problems. ;)

    You are correct in it not being "normal" if everything is maintained as it should be, however, and I should have added all the detail in my post. :)
  • jack58jack58 Member Posts: 3
    I unlocked my OBW with the remote and tried to open the driver's side rear door, heard a "clunk" and the door would not open! I tried the passenger side rear door "clunk" that door wouldn't open! I tried the front passenger door with my fingers crossed, it opened. Now my rear doors only open from the inside. Is there some trick I missed in the manual?
    I am afraid to use the child lock lever for fear I might never get my rear doors open.
    Any help out there?
  • geneobgeneob Member Posts: 5
    I finally got it without breaking the bank. I started with the A/F sensor and might have seen a small improvement. Then the Knock sensor gave it a really good boost. And the one that finished it was replacing the plug wires. Subaruguru, you were right on. I guess the knock sensor and the plug wires were the real culprits. The car runs so well now I notice the clutch slips. Next project.
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Nothing ventured, nothing gained. ;)

    Try moving the child lock back and forth. Someone could have snaged it, loading in or out, etc.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I am not sure how that could be the problem as he is unable to open from the outside not the inside (child lock only affects ability to open from inside).

    It almost sounds like the lock mechanisms did not fully move so when you went to pull the handle, they slipped back into the "locked" position. I have done this before when unlocking a door on my '96 manually from the inside (just did not pull the lever all the way out) such that when my wife would pull the handle on the outside it would re-lock (I could see the lever move back to the locked position). But, why this would happen on both doors simultaneously is quite strange. Did you try the remote again? Did you try to use your key to unlock all the doors? How about locking and unlocking manually from the inside of each of those doors?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Well, since you don't know, and I don't know, and the guy who posted doesn't know....like I said, nothing ventured, nothing gained. :P
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Seems the 2000-2002 head gasket problem might just extend to the 2003's. Anyone have any information or seen information on the head gaskets failing on the 2003's?

    Yes - most of the HG problems were the Phase I engines in the 95-99 models. SOA put out a bulletin and if you had a sealant added to your coolant they extended the warranty on HG repairs to 100,000 miles on the Phase II engine in your car.

    I've not seen many reports of 2000-2002 HG failures, where are these reports coming from?
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    I've found info, and even the scanned pdf docuement from Subaru on the 2000-2002 Customer Service Initiative in which owners were advised to take it in for an 'additive' to be put in the antifreeze and get a 100,000 mile warranty on the cooling system. Just google it.

    I took my car and left it at the dealer. Since there is no rental car/loaner provision on Subaru's after 36,000 miles, I had to pay for that myself. I asked her to report this to the Subaru regional service rep, and while she was talking to him, see if he could get me any rental car allowance, ha.

    The dealer called late yesterday and said they are pulling the engine to replace the headgasket and also noticed a small leak on the water pump, so, are replacing the water pump too. She said she thought it might be ready this evening.

    I just hope this isn't a common thing that is going to happen after the 60,000 mile warranty!
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Not sure. We first replaced our head gaskets (preemptively) at 140,000 miles and it was sold with 187,000, so we don't know how long it will last. It replaced another 97 with 245,000 miles, though - HG replaced at 145K.
  • jack58jack58 Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I have tried the remote, the key, the lock button even locked and unlocked the inside of the rear doors manually.
    It just seems to coincidental to have both lock mechanisms fall apart within a minute of each other, and the "clunk" sounded like something falling inside the door(s)
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Well, in that case, I would take it to the dealer....
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I agree - incredibly strange for that to happen. I had no luck digging around for information about it elsewhere. This might be a situation where you will have to dig into the doors to figure out what went wrong to determine the most likely culprit.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jack58jack58 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you both, it's an '05 with 32,000 miles, do you think it is covered under warranty?
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Until 36,000 miles it is!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Yup! Get that bugger in there ASAP! :surprise: *whew*
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    Picked up my Legacy from the dealer. I was shocked to have the car back and ready 24 hours after dropping it off. They didn't have to pull the engine. They replaced the head gasket and all associated gaskets, changed the oil and oil filter, refilled the antifreeze, replaced the water pump and gaskets. My only cost was the rental.
    When I asked if it was common and if it would happen again in 40,000 miles...The service advisor told me it was fairly common and that Subaru had changed the gasket material, so, hopefully it wouldn't happen again.

    Mark
    2003 Subaru Legacy Spec Edition
    :shades:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Glad that's behind you.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Indeed, but did they only replace the one gasket? I think I would have preferred both be replaced if Subaru would have been willing to do it under warranty. Seems a moderate risk though if the one failed.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hamezhamez Member Posts: 8
    I have had my '06 OBXT for six months and it just started making an almost grinding sound when I brake hard sometimes. I don't think it's the brakes. The only other time I've had this happen is when I had a bearing assembly go in another vehicle. Suggestions? Hate to lose a day or two of work taking it to the dealer. I am self-employed and work out of my car, no work, no money!
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    its probably the brakes, or something attached to them (such as a pebble) that you are hearing. But like you said, the grinding sound could be brake noise from a loose wheel bearing. I had something similar happen on a Trooper we owned--when we braked with the front wheels turned, it made a hard grinding noise.

    Have you checked torque on your lug nuts lately?

    John
  • hamezhamez Member Posts: 8
    No I haven't checked the lug nuts. Do you think they could have been over tightened by my shop? The noise doesn't happen on every stop, but if there is something wrong it's only going to get worse.
  • crazyhodagcrazyhodag Member Posts: 2
    I am unable to find an after market (brand other than Subaru's) oil filter for my 2007 Outback 2.5i engine (EJ253). I mostly used Fram filters, with good success, in my 2002 4 cyl Outback that I recently sold, but nobody handles a filter, especially Fram, for my new 2007 model. If anyone knows of a brand name filter, with the correct number, please post the information as I'd certainly appreciate it. I always change my own oil and want to continue. Thanks ahead of time!
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    It is the same as the 2006. ;)
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Or use Subaru's. I'm guessing it's only a few bucks more.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    they are cheap enough (~$6).

    Don't forget the crush washers. They are about $1 each at the dealer.

    I bought a 5 year supply of filters, washers, etc. using my Subaru bucks. "Free" and OEM quality, can't beat that combo.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No I haven't checked the lug nuts. Do you think they could have been over tightened by my shop?

    It's a definite possibility.

    Wal Mart mounted tires for me that I bought on-line, and they were way too tight. My brakes pulsated like mad coming home.

    I re-torqued them and now they're back to normal.

    It made a huge difference. Before I felt like my rotors were about to shatter, it made me afraid to even use the brakes.

    -juice
  • montezmontez Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i have a 95 legacy GT which is causing me a few problems. The performance seems a bit slugish and when the car revs above 5000rpm there is little power and the engine will start "kangerooing" causing the check engine light to come on. Any ideas what this problem could be
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Spark or fuel, as they say.

    Given the age of the car, well over a decade now, replace any of the following that haven't already been replaced within the last 60k miles:

    * fuel filter
    * spark plugs
    * spark plug wires
    * air filter
    * PCV valve
    * oxygen sensor

    In addition, the ignition coil may need to be replaced, if it's original. Mine only cost $80.

    -juice
  • philliesfan2philliesfan2 Member Posts: 14
    I have an 03 Legacy SE Wagon and have just turned over 100K miles. Most of those miles are highway miles and I commute 80+ miles a day, most on the highway.

    Subaru recommends replacing the timing belt at 105K.
    I'm wondering what other readers/posters experiences have been. Can that deadline be pushed back.

    Plans are to drive the car to 200-220K miles, so if I can avoid replacing the timing belt until 110K, I can avoid having to replace it more than once.

    Many thanks for your ideas and advice.
    David
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    How much the belt ages depends quite a bit on the conditions in which the car is driven, but since the recommended service interval is 105K, stretching it to 110K is less than a 5% increase, so it is probably do-able. I cannot recommend doing so, however, since the belt is a $100 part and, if done by a shop, the work is perhaps $400-500. If the belt breaks, your heads will be toast (couple thousand or more to repair). And, if you replace at 105K then you should be good to 210K. If you planned on keeping it to 200-220K, then you are in that range and stretching the belt's life at the end of your ownership will not be a big deal should it then break. You say "oh well," dump the car for salvage as you would anyway (what would it be worth at 220K? Maybe $2000?), and replace it. If, on the other hand, you decide to keep it longer, you just replace the belt again and off you go.

    You could "hope" for other problems that require taking the belt off anyway. Then you can replace it every 50-60K miles and not ever have to worry about it! I have 220K on my car now and am on the fifth belt! :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    Exactly.

    Number one folly of car owners is not replacing belts whenever other maintenance issues require removing them.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    The number two folly might be not replacing other items when the belt is replaced.
    I.e. water pump?; belt tensioner

    Jim
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    I agree. All of those are cheap parts, including the belts, compared to the labor costs to get at them.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Honestly? I wouldn't push your luck now, while the car is new.

    If you want to stretch the interval, stretch it for the 2nd replacement, i.e. replace it at 105k miles and then just leave the 2nd one on there until the car falls apart.

    Then, if the belt snaps and you have catastrophic engine failure (it is an interference design by the way), at least you're only losing a car with 210k plus miles on it, i.e. no big deal.

    -juice
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    Yep, only replaced the gasket that failed (left bank of cylinders) on drivers side near back of block. So far, so good. Guess I'll wait and draw the final conclusion when the oil is changed next time. The exterior seals are holding, just hope all is ok on the interior seals.
  • ronsoutbackronsoutback Member Posts: 2
    Call me ignorant but why do i see motor oil when i pull out the deep-seating boots when i'm changing my spark plugs??
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Plugs might not have been torqued down properly.

    The new spark plugs have a crush washer, make sure you feel them crush when you install them. Also, use anti-seize on the threads since that's an alloy block.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    The valve cover gaskets might also be leaking. Each of the plug recesses has a separate gasket, along with the large gasket around the exterior perimeter of the head.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ronsoutbackronsoutback Member Posts: 2
    thanks folks. the valve cover gasket seemslike it's the problem. the plugs were factory original so i'm sure they were torqued correctly. also not sure how oil could escape through the spark plug threads. if there's oil in the cylinders trying to escape, i'm in DEEP DOO-DOO! btw, the plugs i removed were in VG condition. they were champions and i replaced them with bosch. good idea, bad idea, indifferent??
    thanks again!
  • kmartinkmartin Member Posts: 427
    Jack, see my similar post in the Tribeca forum, "Door lock problems".

    Sounds like it "may" a part problem used in other models.

    -Karen in AZ-
Sign In or Register to comment.