Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

1…127128130132133…170

Comments

  • frenchflyerfrenchflyer Member Posts: 3
    ok thank you i'll try that
  • dudleyfdudleyf Member Posts: 10
    Does anybody know if the seatbelt reminder chime can be either disabled, or at least made to only sound when the car is in gear? I'm an avid believer in seatbelts and have been for 20 years, so it's a non-issue when I'm driving, but what is really annoying is when the car is idling in park and the driver seat is EMPTY because I'm in back buckling my daughter in, loading her stuff, etc. and that darn chime just keeps donging and donging and, well, you know. What an annoying nuisance!

    Also, has anybody found any use for the nav? I've used many nav systems before and the Subie's ranks as one of the most useless I've encountered yet. In the five weeks I've had the car it hasn't been able to locate a single destination I've yet entered, by address or phone number. And they were all existing establishments for 20 years or more. It identifies my home street incorrectly, which I can kind of forgive since my neighborhood is only 2 years old. And the POI search seems useless; enter a restaurant chain name and city and it will list restaurants that have nothing to do with what I entered. Am I using it wrong?

    Other than these two items I love the car so far. Very quiet and smooth. The sound system is a little weak compared to my 99 Maxima, but it's a family car so no biggie.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    The seat belt issue was discussed in the Legacy/Outback 2005+ thread within the last year or so. There were instructions on how to disable it. Search for the word "chime" if I recall correctly.

    I used the info to disable mine. It can be a bit fickle and may take a couple of attempts.

    Karl
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Does anybody know if the seatbelt reminder chime can be either disabled, or at least made to only sound when the car is in gear? I'm an avid believer in seatbelts and have been for 20 years, so it's a non-issue when I'm driving, but what is really annoying is when the car is idling in park and the driver seat is EMPTY because I'm in back buckling my daughter in, loading her stuff, etc. and that darn chime just keeps donging and donging and, well, you know. What an annoying nuisance!
    Yes, there is a procedure to do this. Ask the dealer or do a search.
  • mach_ymach_y Member Posts: 1
    Where did you send out your McIntosh to be repaired? Thanks!

    Mark
  • lascottcalascottca Member Posts: 11
    Hi: Was going to purchase a Subaru but was told they don't offer a model with the Tinted Glass? Can't believe they would be so foolish. Is their a Outback or legacy model that has the tinted glass? The cheap tinted film doesn't work when you have a couple of dogs. Thanks Lawrence :mad:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    The Tribeca might, but none of the other models have it as an option.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • markk1markk1 Member Posts: 30
    Brought in my 2000 Outback for a 90K service. Was told that it needed a new head gasket (Subaru warranty repair). I went to pick it up this evening and the car was lurching by the time I exited the parking lot. Seemed like the transmission was not engaging correctly. They looked at it and have not yet diagnosed it except to say it is a transmission problem, they showed me that in neutral the tach jumps all around while the engine sounds the same. I had a rebuilt transmission put in about 1 1/2 years ago at the dealer and about 6 months ago I had the TCM replaced when it started flashing (Subaru paid for most of the transmission). The problem definitely did not exist when the car was dropped off. Could anything they did cause this? I would guess the head gasket has nothing to do with the transmission? They also changed the transmission fluid as part of the service if that could be related? Anyone know how long the rebuilt engine is warrantied for? they are going to get back to me tomorrow once they fully diagnose it.

    BTW in general I've been pretty happy with the dealer
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    I've only seen the B9 Tribeca with tinted glass. However, you should still talk to your local dealership. Many of them have contracts with local garages and may be able to tint the glass or switch out the glass. The fee can be financed into your car payments if you do it at the time of the sale. However, don't let one small thing stop you from making a good purchase. I switched from a Honda CR-V with tinted glass to a LLBean Outback (without the tint) and love it. I don't know why I drove the CR-V to begin with.
  • markk1markk1 Member Posts: 30
    Update just spoke to the dealer. As part of the head gasket replacement they needed to wash the engine. Evidently some water got in the connection between the Transmission and the computer that controls it, they dried it off and everything is ok they tell me. They were very apologetic (of course I was relieved that it is nothing major!)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I was going to suggest a vacuum problem, but electrical makes sense too. That one certainly did not sound mechanical, and that is always a good thing!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ssdsssds Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 outback and I am of the same opinion as you ... I always wear my seatbelt, but the chime seemed a bit excessive! The dealer gave me the instructions on how to disable it - actually, it disables the secondary warnings - you still get the warning when you first start the car. If I remember correctly, you have to buckle and unbuckle the seatbelt 20 times within the first 30 seconds after starting the vehicle. Hope that helps.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    you cannot buy a " passenger car" in the US with factory tinted glass, only vehicles other than "cars" ie those classified as vans, trucks (incl SUVs) etc can come with factory tint.
    the outback was supposed to have been reclassified as a truck recently but doesn't seem to have gotten tinted
  • philh3philh3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Outback and have just encountered this problem (it required almost a roll of paper towels to mop up the water). According to the dealer, the problem is a blocked AC drain tube. Apparently quite common here in the NE whre the tubes get blocked with debris, especially leaves and pine needles. The service department was very blase about the problem. I have NEVER owned a car (US and European) where the AC leaked into the vehicle. I regard this as an unacceptable design flaw and Subarus are now off my list of recommended vehicles.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Phil, all cars have drain tubes and can suffer from the same problem. I would be looking for another solution than dumping my car--such as finding better shelter from falling debris.

    John
  • philh3philh3 Member Posts: 2
    FYI, a Jeep and 2 Volvos have been parked in that same area and driven under the same conditions without having that problem - maybe I've been lucky or maybe other auto makers have found a design that doesn't direct overflowing condensation into the passenger compartment.
  • scottcascottca Member Posts: 12
    :confuse: What's the difference between the Outback & the Legacy? That look identical. Live in the Bay Area maybe going to Lake Tahoe a couple of times a year during the winter. Why do people perfer one over the other? Thanks Lawrence
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    Lawrence:
    You've asked a very loaded question, one that is not easily answered on a forum like this. I recommend you go to Subaru.com and research the models. You'll see that the Outback is on the higher end side of things.

    Just in my own opinion (I have both a Legacy and an Outback):
    Both are available is wagons and sedans, but Subaru seems to be leaning the Legacy to be more sedan and the Outback to be more wagon. If you look at any dealership, there are a lot of Legacy sedans and a lot of Outback wagons, and the probably just a handful of the reverse.

    The Legacy sits a little lower to the ground than the Outback. The Outback weighs a little more than the Legacy, so the Legacy gets better MPG. The Outback is slightly bigger and with more horsepower, too.

    The Outback is available in H6 (like a V6, but a horizontal engine).

    There are a lot more differences, but those are the ones I think of off the top of my head.

    I can't decide whether I like my wife's Legacy or my Outback better. The Legacy gets great gas mileage, but the Outback I can take onto trails and so forth.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Additionally, the Legacy has better handling characteristics vs. the Outback's increased ground clearance and heavier duty suspension. Does the Legacy have a roof rack any longer? I know that more and more of the wagons I see are rackless, so perhaps it is an option. For me, lack of that feature would render the vehicle far less useful. Frankly, I would be quite sad to be without it. :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    All Tribecas and the discountinued Baja had tint from the factory. Anything else would be aftermarket film.

    -juice
  • outbike1outbike1 Member Posts: 5
    Hey everyone -

    I too am suffering from the rattle back in the cargo area - esp when I am going over rough roads, speed bumps, etc. I was hoping that all of you that have experienced similar rattles could desribe what they sounded like. Mine sounds like a rattle / plastic "flapping" that seems to eminate from the rear corners of the cargo bay - near the tail-lights. Mine did not appear until 10K miles. I have read that several of you attributed the rattling to the black plastic covers of the tail lights - when I inspect mine, they seem snug and I cannot duplicate the rattle by knocking on them. I have removed my cargo cover (including the one attached to the rear hatch) and anything else that could possibly be causing the rattle - but it still persists. So, before I try the suggested fix of using foam tape on the tail light housings, I was hoping those of you afflicted with this condition could elaborate on the symptoms prior to your fix . . .

    Thanks so much!!!

    Outbike
    1996 OB Wagon 157,000 miles - blown head gasket - RIP :cry:
    2006 OB Wagon 11,000 miles - still in our Honeymoon ;)
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    Outbacks have one engine choice unavailable for Legacy (at least in NA). It is H6.
    Outbacks have heavier duty suspension and are raised compared to Legacy.
    Outbacks have truckish tires (at least sizewise) where Legacy has sports car size.

    The biggest difference is in handling and ground clearance and interior trim.

    Krzys

    PS There is also strange game SoA plays with options.
    Want 6 cylinder - Outback.
    Want 2.5 turbo, manual and wagon - Outback XT.
  • bobdeebobdee Member Posts: 9
    My '85 Volvo DL wagon experiences the same problem. Every couple of years I have to clear the crud from the drain tube - and that's with it parked either in the garage or covered parking at work.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Your noise sounds like mine, but noises are so hard to describe. I'll still recommend doing what I did initially. Get large wash sponges and stick one on each area around the tail lights before shutting the tail gate. They will want to slide off so you may have to be quick about shutting the hatch. If the noise goes away you at least know where the source is located.

    Where do you live? Mine only does it once it drops below about 40°F. Did you have the car last winter?

    Karl
  • outbike1outbike1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the input, Karl. I live in the DC area where recent temps have been in the 50's-70's. I Bought the car in May 06, so it has yet to see truly cold temps. However, I believe there has been a few mornings where the temps fell into the 30's before the rattles appeared . . . :confuse:

    Hopefully this weekend I will have the chance to try the sponge/weather-stripping trick. I am not keen about taking it to the dealer for this.

    Outbike
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Outbacks have truckish tires (at least sizewise) where Legacy has sports car size.

    What truck has 225/55r17 tires on 17x7 rims?

    Mercedes S class and Nissan Maximas come with "truckish" 225/55r17's as well, so you're in good company, anyway.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My truck has 18x8 rims from the factory.

    -mike
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    With 55 aspect ratio tires?

    Point is the tires on 06 and 07 Outbacks are relatively low aspect ratio. There are many passenger cars with 60 or even 65 aspect ratio tires standard. Ain't nothin' truckish about an Outback.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe they are a 60 aspect ratio on the Ramada.

    As for "truckish" I believe the OB had more ground clearance than an Explorer a few years back... :)

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Hahahah! While I completely agree with that statement, there is nothing truckish about most trucks these days either... :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    the Ramada is more like my living room (TV, Lazy boys, etc) heck it may be more roomy than some manhattan apartments!

    -mike
  • carteachcarteach Member Posts: 179
    I don't want to jinx myself; but I have a '95 Legacy Wagon with over 197,000 on it. I drove it today when I went to test drive the 2007 L.L. Bean. My wagon doesn't have the surge of energy when you first put your foot on the pedal; but it has a smoother and steadier tranny once it's up there than the 2007. I love my Legacy and pray it lasts at least until 250,000. I did not love the 2007; and will not be buying one.

    (Thinking of the Acura TL. Saw someone said they have tranny problems too???)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    On all ATs these days you need to give them 1k miles to learn your driving style. Where do you live that the TL would be an option? (No AWD = not gonna be good in the snow)

    -mike
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I don't want to jinx myself; but I have a '95 Legacy Wagon with over 197,000 on it. I drove it today when I went to test drive the 2007 L.L. Bean. My wagon doesn't have the surge of energy when you first put your foot on the pedal; but it has a smoother and steadier tranny once it's up there than the 2007. I love my Legacy and pray it lasts at least until 250,000. I did not love the 2007; and will not be buying one.

    The H6 and XT have a 5 speed automatic. The 4 speed JATCO in your Legacy (and our two 97 Outbacks) has been roundly criticized by many owners and reviewers (like here) for the big gulf between the top two geear and the lower two, as well as untimely downshifting. So rest assured you will not be able to find any car with a tranny like yours! The 5EAT is one of the reasons I bought the H6 model.

    Go drive the Acura TL in the rain before you consider buying one. We have an Accord V6 and if the roads wet you can spin the front wheels just pulling away from a stoplight. When it's snowing, we have to shut off the traction control to get up hills! The Subarus just go. It's an apples to donuts comparisonin bad weather. The TL is a good handling luxo cruiser, though.

    Honda makes their own transmissions (many other manufacturers - including Subaru - use JATCO) but the V6 / 5 speed auto combination used in the Honda/Acura (some cars sold here as Acuras are badged as Hondas in Europe) is ubiquitous and robust. I like the TL's unterior and the back seat is a little wider than the Outback, but the dealers are very proud of them....
  • handigalhandigal Member Posts: 6
    Hi,
    New to forum. Have a '96 Outback with 127K which just had the head gasket replacement, then the StopLeak stuff put in after more leaking. Now "Check Engine Light" tells us via the OBDII that the catalytic converters are below threshold. Radiator is "not clogged, but restricted" according to dealer service folks.
    Should we flush or replace radiator? Is this hard? Is there a possible problem with transducer valve? ERG thingy? Solenoid valve?
    Any advice welcome.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Is not related to the radiator, just so you know.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm with mike, this means your exhaust has unburned oxygen, usually. I would think an O2 sensor is bad. The radiator is part of the cooling system and a seperate, sealed environment.

    -juice
  • handigalhandigal Member Posts: 6
    Hi guys,
    Thanks for answering so quickly. Let me be more clear. One year ago, we had the head gasket replaced due to steaming anitfreeze smell and weird exhaust. Exactly one year later, same symtoms. Mechanic put the Subaru StopLeak stuff in-no leaks. However, CEL still on. Codes say P420 ?--"cat. converter below threshold". At least that's what's on the printout. However, no loss of power, no symtoms at all.
    The mech. who put the stopleak stuff in did say the radiator was constricted BEFORE he put the stuff in and the dealer (who gave us the cat. conv. printout) did say we need a new radiator as well AND a back pressure transducer valve.
    Research into problem reveals that sometimes the the OBDII is wrong. Saw one example that had to replace the ERG and the solenoid valve to get the CEL to stay off.
    Suggestions???
    Thanks in advance.
    Carol
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Just a guess, but it's possible the burning coolant in the exhaust did harm to the cat itself.

    Beyond that the explanation gets technical and I'd defer to a qualified mechanic.

    -juice
  • handigalhandigal Member Posts: 6
    Just one more question, please. There is no noticable loss of performance on the car. Is that possible if the cat. convert. is underperforming, as well as needing a new radiator or O2 sensor? The only thing that's indicating trouble is the 'check engine' light.
    Thanks again,
    Carol
  • terry92270terry92270 Member Posts: 1,247
    The converter not functioning correctly would lead to an increase of emissions, and they car would not pass such a test, as needed in most States when selling or renewing registration.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Carol,

    The radiator issue is separate from the cat issue.

    I wouldn't mess with the radiator unless you have an overheated engine.

    The cat issue can be quite complex, as Juice said, let the experts deal with it.

    John
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    As stated above, the Radiator is not related to the catalytic problem. That cat code can mean a lot of things. One thing it means is that the O2 sensor is sensing that either the cat is clogged, not present, or something else upstream of it is not taking the emissions out of the exhaust that it should be. Short of looking at the car there isn't much we can help you with here, other than to have it reset and see if it comes back.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    And have resorted to just clearing the code when it pops using a handheld OBDII reader. I am tempted to think there is a problem with one or both O2 sensors (they are still the originals as far as I know), but decided not to replace them unless I get additional codes that can help to pinpoint the problem. The "professionals" were no help on this one. They suggested replacing the cat ($400 for the part!), but I figure if I pass the emission test without problems, how bad can the cat be? I passed both in '04 and again two months ago (Sept '06). The frequency of the code tripping has been consistent since it started doing it in August of '04. *shrugs*
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • handigalhandigal Member Posts: 6
    Wow! That's very interesting. Have you had any problems with the head gaskets? Or radiator? The dealer told us we also need a new radiator but doubt that as well. Would you recommend a radiator flush at this point? Don't know when it was done last. Thanks so much for your reply.

    Best,
    Carol
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    wrong with your radiator or head gasket, at least nothing that a CEL is going to tell you!

    -mike
  • handigalhandigal Member Posts: 6
    Thanks, Mike. I know the CEL light doesn't indicate radiator problems. It's just that the dealer who (mis)diagnosed the 420 code also told us that the radiator was constricted and needed to be replaced. I was just trying to get some advice about flushing it-esp. since both the reg. mechanic and the dealer said it was constricted. But I'm figuring out that their diagnoses can't always be trusted. Is there tale-tale signs that I can see to determine if the radiator is in fact clogged or constricted? Thanks so much.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you idle the car for 20 minutes in your driveway and it doesn't increase in temp, then your rad is fine. The temp gauge should come up to somewhere in the middle and stabilize, then stay there, if it increases toward the H then it is probably consricted, although you are likely to have overheated if this was the case.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Well, no problems with gaskets since I replaced them at 192,xxx miles (about 27,000 miles ago). I was having combustion gas backing up into my coolant. No overheating problems, but it was just a matter of time, I am sure. The radiator seems to work fine. I have never had it tested, per se, but I have flushed it (tap water from a garden hose with system pressure of ~50 psi, 5 gpm max flow rate) and the engine block before the gasket replacement and the water flowed freely through the system (it drained out as fast as the hose could push it in). As Mike suggested, if you are not having any problem with overheating, then the radiator is likely not a problem. I wonder why these shops are saying the radiator is constricted? Is there something that is visually causing concern or did they test it somehow? Once again, the radiator and the P0420 codes are completely unrelated except, possibly, in terms of the coolant temperature sending unit, but unless the engine is running hot or cold, it is not going to adversely affect the emissions systems.

    I did notice on my trip to Anchorage this past weekend that when I pulled long hills (dropped it into 3rd (A/T) at 65-70 mph, ~4200 rpm) the thermostat reading would actually drop from mid-level (normal) to about 2/3 of that reading. I had never noticed that before, but maybe it was just circulating the fluid faster than the engine was heating it? The ambient temperatures were about -15 to -20 F. I did not notice any other odd behaviors from the car, so I just filed it in the "noted" section of my brain. Dropping the RPMs back to 2800 (by throwing the A/T in Drive) quickly resulted in the temp guage rising to its normal temp reading.

    I did quite a bit of reading up on P0420/P0400 today (just had P0400 appear on this trip as well.... twice!) and neither are necessarily simple to diagnose without quite a bit of effort. It is possible that there is a problem with the 02 sensors or even the cat itelf, but the general rule is to run through the full diagnostics of a system before setting in to replace parts. Part of the complication with that is with most systems, there are both mechanical and electrical components, and both must be checked at each point within the system. Maybe I should just break down and do that once the weather warms up. :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yup, very hard to diagnose. I usually start with the O2 sensors and then move to the cat afterward, you would be down on power a bit if it's the cat and/or smell nasty.

    -mike
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles