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Comments
Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I look forward to many more miles with my Subie.
Of course, this is all conjecture, but the front differential (which is the front, bottom portion of the "transaxle") is a likely candidate for the source of the problem.
Out of curiosity, what year is the car?
So far the guess/fixes have been: replaced inner/outer tie rods & boots. Rebuilt drive shaft. Replaced rear stabilizer link kits. Put winter tires on. Changed differential fluid - slight evidence of metal.
I would appreciate any thought on this. I bought a Haynes repair book because I have been to a dealer & two other garages & feel like I'm getting the runaround on this. So if I dont know exactly what you're refering to I can at least look it up. Thanks! I love my car!!! :confuse:
I'd suggest running the car up on a lift but the type that lets the wheels hang, and then running the car and observing the half-shaft rotation.
I'm suspicious of the half-shafts because this happens only on "pull", when the engine is driving the wheels, but not on "push" when the wheels drive the engine.
-mike
I wonder if the driveshaft was balanced after it was rebuilt?
If in fact he feels NOTHING, only hears a sound, then it's an aerodynamics problem somewhere, or a harmonics issue, not actually mechanical per se.
After visiting, dealer and Schwab I realized that both of them really not sure that their recommendations would fix the CAR and hence took to the AAA car care.
Thanks to all of you and Grahmpeters for your advice. The lower control arm bushing was replaced and that fixed the problem.
I paid only 350.00. I relaized that "non-profit" organizations work great.
It also appears that the water is actually going into the inside of the hatchback door and getting the electrical wet..
I'm thinking there is a seal or gasket I need to buy as there is no rust or anything like that and the window isn't cracked. I'm thinking it's the rubber seal around the hatchback rather than around the window.. Anyone have these problems and can suggest what to buy? I'm thinking of buying something from Autozone or something...
Thanks.
Got in the car, locked the doors (electrics) and they made a buzzing noise then locked. A few minutes later was driving up an on-ramp, engine died. As it died it made a rumbling-ish noise like a flat tire or broken belt hitting the hood would make. CEL and Oil Light came on, but no power.
I assumed the timing belt broke, as I had replaced it just a couple years ago. Removed Alt and A/C belts (intact), and removed the TB covers to find a beautiful intact timing belt. Okay, ruled that out and checked the Haynes. It suggested check the coil pack. Resistance values were out of specs, so I replaced the CP. Upon restart, cranked the engine a couple times and was finally able to coax it to life, but it died immediately. Now it won't crank at all. Battery voltage is 12.5 volts.
Any suggestions appreciated. I don't have an ODB reader, and $125 coil pack are expensive troubleshooting tools!
Thanks, TB
I concur, debugging by parts replacement can be very expensive. Did the coilpack you just replaced test good after the engine died?
Like an idiot, I didn't think to check the CP prior to install, and I was too irritated to check it afterwards. Also on the list for this evening.
TB
I took out the fixture and the water leaked out of it.
When I close the hatchback I see an area right above the tail lights ( like a 1/4 inch black rubber? seal that actually looks like the rubber seal has intentionally spaced areas of about an inch or two long for venting .. ? Where I can see it as a possible entrance of water.. Is that typicall? Should this be sealed up?
My 2000 Outback started running hot recently and based upon info that I found in these discussions, it seems likely my water pump died. I also have about 78K on the odometer and it appears that the thing to also have done at this point is to change (or adjust?) the timing belt while the engine is open. I was just wondering what the average cost is for these procedures?
Thanks!
Jim
I am new to the world of forums. I purchased my new 2006 Outback last year. Its a great car and I have had no problems. A week ago the front seat adjuster (that moves seat back or forward) stopped working. It is a manually operated system with a bar that you pull up to release the claws that lock the seat in position. Can any one help me with any ideas on how I might repair this on my own?
Regards to all
Max
The last time I worked on the car, I was in my driveway and did not have a vice available. I ended up placing the part between a hydraulic bottle jack and the trailer hitch of my truck. I jacked it up about 4 inches and the steady pressure of the truck slowly depressed it over about 10 minutes. It was just enough time to go in the house to warm up a bit before tackling the belt installation!
It is not good if the tensioner fails, though. Really, that is the only part that keeps the timing belt in place.
For the belt, I am replacing with Gatorback brand.
Alland
-mike
Alland
OBD reader says "PASS." Engine will crank, but not start. Brand new coil pack reads resistance out of specs. Possibly a bad coil from the parts store? Or is there something I can check in the firing circuit that will blow out a coil pack?
thanks,
TB
Here is how the belt going through each part clock wise:
Starting from power steering pump, the belt loop through free wheeling pulley with back side of the belt, make a u turn, then loop over the alternator and AC with the groove side, wrap around the crankshaft pulley on the groove side, go back up to another free wheeling pulley on the back side of the belt and ends back at power steering pump.
Alland
Alland
-mike
Yes, it is a single belt that runs all the accessories. I would think that H6 would not be much different from H4. This is my first subie, so I am in a new territory in terms of fixing and doing maintenance. If it is a spring-tensioner type, do I just put a wrench on one of those pulleys nuts and just release the pressure, but not necessarily unscrew the nut all the way out? May be it is time to invest in an expensive service manual, around $300 plus :sick: whereas I get my complete Honda and Toyota service manual for around $65.00 each.
Alland
If there is a nut on one of the pulleys and if you put a wrench on it and the whole pulley moves, it won't "unbolt" it'll just move and the belt will then be able to pop out. Should take about 10 minutes to change if that's the case.
-mike
I am trying to use a Haynes manual, but it only goes up to 1998. Are there significant differences between '98 and '99?
The nearest Subaru dealerships are both 100 miles away, so towing is out of the question, and I'm not sure I can find a local mechanic who knows anything about them. They're nowhere near as popular here as they are in New England!
1. Can't find a fuse for the fuel pump in the under-dash or under-hood fuse panels. Other places to look?
2. Removed access panel in trunk for top access to fuel tank. Can sometimes hear fuel pump "buzz" when key is first turned on, other times no buzz. Is this normal? Does it only buzz when lines are not pressurized? Something else I can check prior to breaking the seal on the tank? Is there a schematic to know which pin(s) to check for relay voltage at the fuel tank electrical connector?
Any and all suggestions and advice are truly appreciated!
Thanks! TB
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=3128
Alland
-mike
No, not really.
The 99 still had the DOHC engine from the 98 on the Legacy/Outback line. It was the Forester and Impreza that went to SOHC in 1999. The Legacy and Outback only changed for 2000.
Your manual should basically still apply.
-mike
That said, I replaced the plugs in my '96 three times - once at about 105K (I purchased the car at 83K, so I do not really know if those were the originals), once at 144K, and once again at 192K. Never did they give me any problems. I only replaced them the second two times because I had the engine out of the car anyway and it was just too easy not to go ahead and do it. I replaced the wires at 105K and 192K; both times it was primarily due to physical damage to one or more wires.
My dealer claimed (incorrectly) that my 2000 Legacy SOHC had platinum plugs and didn't need changing at 30k. I changed them myself at 60k and confirmed that the plugs weren't platinum.
Back in the 80's I had a Golf GTI. The specified plugs were expensive Bosch Silver plugs. I do the first plug change and guess what comes out of the engine...ordinary Champions!!! :mad:
I think it was a Forester/Impreza vs. Legacy/Outback.
My Forester's engine bay was narrow, making access more difficult. Some myths even said you had to pull the engine, not true at all, but it was tight.
My wife's Legacy was very easy because you have more space to work with. Same engine, wider engine bay. Hers was SOHC, but it was the extra width that made it easier.
Spark plug specification for the EJ253 (2.5 L, SOHC, non-turbo) is FR5AP-11 (NGK, platinum)
Spark plug specification for the EJ255 (2.5 L, DOHC, turbo) is SILFR6A (NGK, iridium)
Spark plug specification for the EZ30D (3.0 L, DOHC, non-turbo) is ILFR6B (NGK, iridium)
-Wes-
Mo
-mike
Thanks, Luke
Thanks
I'm inclined to get the same T rated BFGoodrich tires again since they seemed to work well and last long. Any thoughts?