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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • sloanesqsloanesq Member Posts: 60
    The description of piston slap sounds like a perfect fit for what I am experiencing. I also had the oil (5w30) changed recently and I paid close attention to see if there was any difference. At best, there was a slight reduction in noise, but it was still there and the noise reduction may have been due to somewhat warmer temperatures.

    Thank you all for taking the time to respond. I look forward to many more miles with my Subie.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Ah, okay. The additional information definitely helps. If it is not steering, then it is likely a serious (and expensive to fix) issue - front differential. You may have a problem with the clutch packs in there causing something to bind. If so, that may also be the reason for the transmission not wanting to shift to drive. If there is significant resistance in the drive line, the computer-controlled transmission likely thinks you are trying to climb a hill or something and is keeping it in the lower gear to overcome the resistance.

    Of course, this is all conjecture, but the front differential (which is the front, bottom portion of the "transaxle") is a likely candidate for the source of the problem.

    Out of curiosity, what year is the car?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • msdawnmsdawn Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be: During acceleration 30-40 mph my car makes a shuddering sound like when a rear window is open but not as loud. After that it seems to go away until 55 to 60 mph. At that point it turns into a vibration which is louder in the back seat. As long as I am pressing the gas or have it on cruise you can hear this hum/vibrating sound but when the car is coasting there is no noise. Its an automatic w/ 115,500 miles (sage green).

    So far the guess/fixes have been: replaced inner/outer tie rods & boots. Rebuilt drive shaft. Replaced rear stabilizer link kits. Put winter tires on. Changed differential fluid - slight evidence of metal.

    I would appreciate any thought on this. I bought a Haynes repair book because I have been to a dealer & two other garages & feel like I'm getting the runaround on this. So if I dont know exactly what you're refering to I can at least look it up. Thanks! I love my car!!! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Do you have half-shafts on this car in the rear or a straight-tube read end? If half-shafts, I'd definitely check the CV joints. Sorry I don't know Subarus.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Hey, Shifty. Yes, the car does have half-shafts w/ CV boots. No solid axles on a (modern) Subaru.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay! Did anyone check this CV joints for excessive wear (not easy to do, usually you have to take them down and clean them and then look at what you got).

    I'd suggest running the car up on a lift but the type that lets the wheels hang, and then running the car and observing the half-shaft rotation.

    I'm suspicious of the half-shafts because this happens only on "pull", when the engine is driving the wheels, but not on "push" when the wheels drive the engine.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Might as well just replace them all they are about $50-60 each and the labor is about 1hr per end of the car.

    -mike
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah but that's another $500 guess. Unfortunately you can't really check them by just grabbing them and twisting them around.

    I wonder if the driveshaft was balanced after it was rebuilt?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I have heard of and experienced vibration from the drive shaft. It was due to a faulty bushing that surrounds the main bearing on the shafts. But, it actually caused a thumping that could be felt through the car, not just heard.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think he said he was feeling it, too.

    If in fact he feels NOTHING, only hears a sound, then it's an aerodynamics problem somewhere, or a harmonics issue, not actually mechanical per se.
  • vwakodevwakode Member Posts: 3
    Finally I got this fixed relatively cheap -

    After visiting, dealer and Schwab I realized that both of them really not sure that their recommendations would fix the CAR and hence took to the AAA car care.

    Thanks to all of you and Grahmpeters for your advice. The lower control arm bushing was replaced and that fixed the problem.

    I paid only 350.00. I relaized that "non-profit" organizations work great.
  • wabbittwabbitt Member Posts: 3
    We just purchased a 2001 Outback with 109k on it. Great shape runs well but we noticed that the hatchback is leaking so that when we open it up water streams out..

    It also appears that the water is actually going into the inside of the hatchback door and getting the electrical wet..

    I'm thinking there is a seal or gasket I need to buy as there is no rust or anything like that and the window isn't cracked. I'm thinking it's the rubber seal around the hatchback rather than around the window.. Anyone have these problems and can suggest what to buy? I'm thinking of buying something from Autozone or something...

    Thanks.
  • tbragg44tbragg44 Member Posts: 24
    '99 Outback 30th Anniv, Wagon, 2.5L, 125k miles

    Got in the car, locked the doors (electrics) and they made a buzzing noise then locked. A few minutes later was driving up an on-ramp, engine died. As it died it made a rumbling-ish noise like a flat tire or broken belt hitting the hood would make. CEL and Oil Light came on, but no power.
    I assumed the timing belt broke, as I had replaced it just a couple years ago. Removed Alt and A/C belts (intact), and removed the TB covers to find a beautiful intact timing belt. Okay, ruled that out and checked the Haynes. It suggested check the coil pack. Resistance values were out of specs, so I replaced the CP. Upon restart, cranked the engine a couple times and was finally able to coax it to life, but it died immediately. Now it won't crank at all. Battery voltage is 12.5 volts.

    Any suggestions appreciated. I don't have an ODB reader, and $125 coil pack are expensive troubleshooting tools!

    Thanks, TB
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Many autoparts stores will loan out the code reader. Autozone will run the codes for free, Murrays will sell you the reader and then buy it back from you when you are done.
    I concur, debugging by parts replacement can be very expensive. Did the coilpack you just replaced test good after the engine died?
  • tbragg44tbragg44 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info on borrowing a code reader. I'll check on it this evening.

    Like an idiot, I didn't think to check the CP prior to install, and I was too irritated to check it afterwards. Also on the list for this evening. :)

    TB
  • wabbittwabbitt Member Posts: 3
    OK.. I checked into it further and the water is actually leaking out of the back of the left tailight housing. I lifted the hatchback and the "pocket" type flap that allows access to the left tail light streamed water (it's Oregon and it rains a lot :) )

    I took out the fixture and the water leaked out of it.

    When I close the hatchback I see an area right above the tail lights ( like a 1/4 inch black rubber? seal that actually looks like the rubber seal has intentionally spaced areas of about an inch or two long for venting .. ? Where I can see it as a possible entrance of water.. Is that typicall? Should this be sealed up?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They are not sealed, I remember that about my Forester.
  • ted55ted55 Member Posts: 11
    Hi,
    My 2000 Outback started running hot recently and based upon info that I found in these discussions, it seems likely my water pump died. I also have about 78K on the odometer and it appears that the thing to also have done at this point is to change (or adjust?) the timing belt while the engine is open. I was just wondering what the average cost is for these procedures?
    Thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Assuming you are looking to have the work performed for you, probably about $500. The timing belt is about $80-100 for the part and the water pump is another $100.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    There's also a tensioner ~$190 that is often replaced. If it's not replaced the mechanic has to compress the old one and insert a pin in preparation to re-install it. If the compression is done improperly, he'll damage the part.

    Jim
  • maxszmaxsz Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    I am new to the world of forums. I purchased my new 2006 Outback last year. Its a great car and I have had no problems. A week ago the front seat adjuster (that moves seat back or forward) stopped working. It is a manually operated system with a bar that you pull up to release the claws that lock the seat in position. Can any one help me with any ideas on how I might repair this on my own?

    Regards to all

    Max
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    That is true. $190?! Wow. Must be a different design than on the older ones (mine was a '96), as that is just a small piston - the whole thing is not more than 3.5" long and maybe 3/4" around. There is no way that one could be so expensive. I never replaced mine though. I would put it in a bench vice and slowly compress it until I could insert a small allen wrench. I never had any problems with it, and I removed the timing belt 5 times, if I recall correctly.

    The last time I worked on the car, I was in my driveway and did not have a vice available. I ended up placing the part between a hydraulic bottle jack and the trailer hitch of my truck. I jacked it up about 4 inches and the steady pressure of the truck slowly depressed it over about 10 minutes. It was just enough time to go in the house to warm up a bit before tackling the belt installation! :D

    It is not good if the tensioner fails, though. Really, that is the only part that keeps the timing belt in place. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    My 2002 H6 is in need of serpentine belt replacement due to heavy cracking (side edges have been chipped away), and it also makes too much squeaking noise at start up. I am sure I can remove it, but my main concern is setting proper tension on the belt after installing it. Do I need a special tool and what is the proper tension setting (ft-lb) etc? If you have done it and would like to share the knowledge, I would appreciate it.

    For the belt, I am replacing with Gatorback brand.

    Alland
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There is no tool, you tighten it up and leave a small deflection, I think it's about a 1" deflection. There is no "torque spec" to my knowledge on the accesory belt(s) on subarus.

    -mike
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    Thanks Mike. Good to know that I don't need a special tool.

    Alland
  • tbragg44tbragg44 Member Posts: 24
    Update:

    OBD reader says "PASS." Engine will crank, but not start. Brand new coil pack reads resistance out of specs. Possibly a bad coil from the parts store? Or is there something I can check in the firing circuit that will blow out a coil pack?

    thanks,
    TB
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    I opened up the cover of my 02 H6, and I can't find the swivel part that release the tension of the belt. My Corolla is so simple, untighten the bolt at the alternator that provide tension to the belt, swivel the alternator, and the belt comes out so easily. On this outback, I can't seem to find the part that swivels to release the tension of the belt. The alternator, power steering pump, and AC seem mounted fixed. That leaves two free wheeling pulleys, one located just below-and-between alternator and AC, and the other located just below-and-between power steering pump and alternator. May be one of those provide tension and swivel action. It seems unlikely. May be I am over looking something. Can anyone tell me which part that I need to remove and swivel it in order to release the tension of the belt? Thanks.

    Here is how the belt going through each part clock wise:

    Starting from power steering pump, the belt loop through free wheeling pulley with back side of the belt, make a u turn, then loop over the alternator and AC with the groove side, wrap around the crankshaft pulley on the groove side, go back up to another free wheeling pulley on the back side of the belt and ends back at power steering pump.

    Alland
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    Analyze the parts again that the belt loops through, and the logical step would be to remove the bolt that attaches to the alternator. Putting back the bolt would requires prying the alternator to align the bolt to the hole.

    Alland
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I haven't done any belts on the new H6 engines. Is it a single belt that runs all the accesories? If so, it may be a spring-tensioner type where you put a wrench on one of those pulley nuts and just release the pressure on the belt. That is how it is on my Armada and my Trooper.

    -mike
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    Hi Mike,

    Yes, it is a single belt that runs all the accessories. I would think that H6 would not be much different from H4. This is my first subie, so I am in a new territory in terms of fixing and doing maintenance. If it is a spring-tensioner type, do I just put a wrench on one of those pulleys nuts and just release the pressure, but not necessarily unscrew the nut all the way out? May be it is time to invest in an expensive service manual, around $300 plus :sick: whereas I get my complete Honda and Toyota service manual for around $65.00 each.

    Alland
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The H4s have 2 different belts for the accessories and don't have a spring loaded tensioner.

    If there is a nut on one of the pulleys and if you put a wrench on it and the whole pulley moves, it won't "unbolt" it'll just move and the belt will then be able to pop out. Should take about 10 minutes to change if that's the case.

    -mike
  • tbragg44tbragg44 Member Posts: 24
    Still needing some advice here. Any more techs out there to help troubleshoot?

    I am trying to use a Haynes manual, but it only goes up to 1998. Are there significant differences between '98 and '99?

    The nearest Subaru dealerships are both 100 miles away, so towing is out of the question, and I'm not sure I can find a local mechanic who knows anything about them. They're nowhere near as popular here as they are in New England!

    1. Can't find a fuse for the fuel pump in the under-dash or under-hood fuse panels. Other places to look?

    2. Removed access panel in trunk for top access to fuel tank. Can sometimes hear fuel pump "buzz" when key is first turned on, other times no buzz. Is this normal? Does it only buzz when lines are not pressurized? Something else I can check prior to breaking the seal on the tank? Is there a schematic to know which pin(s) to check for relay voltage at the fuel tank electrical connector?

    Any and all suggestions and advice are truly appreciated!

    Thanks! TB
  • ic_designeric_designer Member Posts: 28
    I was able to remove the belt by putting a wrench on the tensioner pulley. Putting the belt on is different story; I can't slide the belt with releasing the tensioner all the way alone. I had to remove the bolt that holds the alternator, swivel the alternator to create more room in order to slide the belt on all the pulleys. I measured the outer length of the old belt and the new belt, and the newer one is shorter by 1/4". The old one probably stretched. After installing the new belt, the tensioner has very little movement. I can apply tension on the belt, but it will hit the end when I apply enough tension. I am a bit worry that the belt might be a bit too tight. This may damage the bearings of the pump, alternator or AC. The tightness might be that the belt's groove might not yet sit properly into the pulley's slot. The belt part number is Gatorback 4060642 which is called out by Auto Zone. I hope it is normal with the new belt.

    http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=3128

    Alland
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The tensioner will keep the proper tension on it and not damage the bearings in the other components.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Are there significant differences between '98 and '99?

    No, not really.

    The 99 still had the DOHC engine from the 98 on the Legacy/Outback line. It was the Forester and Impreza that went to SOHC in 1999. The Legacy and Outback only changed for 2000.

    Your manual should basically still apply.
  • legacy5legacy5 Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: Subaru maintains that the 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i (non-turbo model) needs to have the NGK FR5AP-11 spark plugs changed at the 30K service. However, my Subaru dealer did not replace the plugs as part of the 30K interval service, because thay say these platinum plugs are good for 60K miles. After contacting NGK and Subaru of America, they both contend that the plugs should be replaced at the 30K interval, not 60K. While conventional wisdom suggest that platinum plugs should last longer, its unclear why Subaru guidance suggest such a service interval, and the dealer a longer interval . Someone is off the mark, and they should get on the same page. Any additional info to clear-up this contridiction for replacement of the spark plugs to support warranty and car maintenance would be helpful.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The non-turbo cars do not have platinum plugs, they should be replaced at 30k miles. With that said, on my own cars I don't replace them until 60k, cause plugs rarely are the cause of issues, modern plugs are very well made.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    They do not? My '96 Outback 2.5 liter specified NGK platinum plugs....

    That said, I replaced the plugs in my '96 three times - once at about 105K (I purchased the car at 83K, so I do not really know if those were the originals), once at 144K, and once again at 192K. Never did they give me any problems. I only replaced them the second two times because I had the engine out of the car anyway and it was just too easy not to go ahead and do it. I replaced the wires at 105K and 192K; both times it was primarily due to physical damage to one or more wires.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I was under the impression that platinum plugs were specified for the DOHC engine and regular plugs for the SOHC because it was harder to get to the plugs on the DOHC.

    My dealer claimed (incorrectly) that my 2000 Legacy SOHC had platinum plugs and didn't need changing at 30k. I changed them myself at 60k and confirmed that the plugs weren't platinum.

    Back in the 80's I had a Golf GTI. The specified plugs were expensive Bosch Silver plugs. I do the first plug change and guess what comes out of the engine...ordinary Champions!!! :mad:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm not sure if it was a SOHC vs. DOHC thing, as far as easier access.

    I think it was a Forester/Impreza vs. Legacy/Outback.

    My Forester's engine bay was narrow, making access more difficult. Some myths even said you had to pull the engine, not true at all, but it was tight.

    My wife's Legacy was very easy because you have more space to work with. Same engine, wider engine bay. Hers was SOHC, but it was the extra width that made it easier.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I should have looked this up yesterday.

    Spark plug specification for the EJ253 (2.5 L, SOHC, non-turbo) is FR5AP-11 (NGK, platinum)
    Spark plug specification for the EJ255 (2.5 L, DOHC, turbo) is SILFR6A (NGK, iridium)
    Spark plug specification for the EZ30D (3.0 L, DOHC, non-turbo) is ILFR6B (NGK, iridium)

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mostreasuresmostreasures Member Posts: 4
    Surprised didn't find any posts addressing my problem so writing to see how should this be handled. Currently have 29,000 miles on the car. Have had 2 wheel alignments and 6 new tires, 4 tires and the alignments were covered under the 3 yr. or 36,000 mi. warranty. The warranty will be up soon and this issue is a real deal breaker. The warranty on the tires (80,000 mi.) does not apply when the car is the problem. Subaru dealer have sublet the alignments and supply the constantly changing specs. Any suggestions?

    Mo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Can you describe the type of tire wear or do you have a photo of it?
  • mostreasuresmostreasures Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your quick reply. Cannot supply pics of tires as they were replaced. However, the rear tires had the biggest problem and primarily were worn the most on the outsides.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Seems like the rear had too much positive camber. Unfortunately I don't think there are any adjustments on the rear alignment so there isn't much they can do for you. Just seems odd.

    -mike
  • lukecrlukecr Member Posts: 1
    I am attempting to replace the ball joint on my 1996 Subaru Outback Wagon (front driver's). I've removed the old ball joint and connected the new one to the Control Arm, but am unable to get the Ball Joint back into the steering knuckle. I've applied a light layer of grease, I've pryed on the pinch slot on the steering knuckle, I tried putting the jack under the control arm pushing up on it (but backed off for fear of pushing the car off the jack stands), I've hammered on it, but to no avail. I've held back hammering too hard on the ball joint bolt for fear of damaging it (I did put the nut on it to keep from damaging the threads). I've tried to line it up, but when I hit it a few times or press on it, it slightly cocks to one side and won't go all the way in. Should I just pound on it until it goes in? Do you have any techniques or suggestions that would help me with this.

    Thanks, Luke
  • timot78timot78 Member Posts: 1
    I have a very similar problem on 2005 Subaru OB (31K miles), namely the rear tires get worn on the shoulders very quickly (so far 3rd set). The camber is too positive. I observe this on several Subaru OB-s (2005+). I was not correcting this under warranty but finally intend to do this. Is this a know problem to Subaru (I assume YES) and how do they correct it? Thanks for any input.
  • rxburnerrxburner Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon. An uninsured driver smashed the drivers side rear tail light assembly. I have a used one being shipped to me. Looking at the old one, it is not clear to me how to remove the old one and install the new one. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
    Thanks
  • markk1markk1 Member Posts: 30
    Looks like it is time for a new set of tires on my Outback. My last set BF Goodrich TA-Traction were all season radials which lasted 65k+. The Subaru dealer sold me these and they had a speed rating of T. The OE tires were Bridgestone of some sort and had an H rating. At the time I remember being under the impression that T rated tires had better snow / ice traction than the performance tires? That was about 5 years ago, now I see mostly performance tires being sold and opinions seem to vary wildly as to there usefulness ranging from http://expertpages.com/news/performance_tires.htm (dangerous not to have them) to http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/a/tires_important.htm (doesn't matter at all)

    I'm inclined to get the same T rated BFGoodrich tires again since they seemed to work well and last long. Any thoughts?
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    I would go to www.tirerack.com and put in the year/make/model. You'll get plenty of tire suggestions and information on each particular tire, along with reviews. Then pick the ones that are the best rated.
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