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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    sounds right to me...
  • calimaricalimari Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 96 Subaru Legacy Outback with manual transmission. The car seems to have issues starting after driving short distances. If I drive for awhile, the car will start no problem. If I only drive it a few miles, then turn it off...it won't start until it has sat approximately 15-20 minutes. The previous owner told me he would just push start it, but it isn't always convenient to park on a hill. Any information someone could supply, would be greatly appreciated!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm Wes, I'm not positive but IIRC in 1995 there was a 2.5LGT which required premium fuel.

    -mike
  • zyuzyu Member Posts: 4
    My 97 Subaru Legacy Outback with manual transmission seems to have a similar problem. Whenever the weather is a little bit cold, it takes a few minutes to start and the engine jumps slightly. And the power is kind of weak when starting uphill. But once it struggled to start in the morning, it starts right away without any problem during the daytime. It has been sent to check for a few times, but they had no clue. According to the manual, there is no special requirement for fuel type, isn't it? I will probably try the unleaded from now on. I have been using the regular since I got it. And the condition of this car is getting worse. Is this really the reason for the problem? I would appreciate very much if anyone could give any help! :cry:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    mike's correct, for the first model year the 2.5l made 155hp and required premium fuel. Make sure you use that.

    By 97 is was tuned to make 165hp on 87 octane, so that's not the issue with yours.

    I would look at the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition coil to determine the health of the spark. For fuel, make sure the fuel filter has been replaced recently and maybe have a mechanic test the fuel pump/pressure.
  • zyuzyu Member Posts: 4
    I have sent it to the mechanician. At the first time, he changed the crank sensor. At the second time he injected fuel cleaner (??Not sure if this is the right term). But the car still has the same problem. I will probably call him and ask whether he checked all of those you listed. Thanks a lot.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Please clarify a bit on this. When you say the car will not start for a while, what does it do? When you turn the key to start, does it crank? Does it just sit there? Does it 'click?'
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    FWIW, we had a hesitation issue with our 626 V6, and a throttle body service cleaned up the fuel system and cleared it right up. That's probably what he did to yours. Too bad.
  • zyuzyu Member Posts: 4
    I am sorry for the confusion. If the car starts normally, once I turn the key, it should start to have some "tu-tu-tu" noise for a few seconds and then starts to run smoothly, right? But for my car, in the morning or at night, when I turn the key, it make the "tu-tu-tu--------------------------tu" nosise maybe like a few minutes. And I had to turn the key a few times to make it start to run. Is this clear? Thanks for all the suggestions above.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Nope, not clear, sorry.

    What I think everyone wants to know is....does the starter motor SPIN the engine even though the engine doesn't actually start running?

    So we are using the term "crank" to describe the starter spinning the engine and the term "start" to mean that the engine is actually running after you've released the key.

    The other option would be that you turn the key to start and nothing happens except dashboard lights and a little click or something.

    Visiting Host
  • zyuzyu Member Posts: 4
    I am sorry for the amateur description. I just checked with the mechanician who checked my car a couple times before, and he said that the starter motor does SPIN the engine even though the engine doesn't actually start running.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Hahahaha, now how is that for some confusion?! I actually wrote my question in response to a different poster (calimari). But, your problem does sound similar.

    My 1996 Outback used to have startup issues similar to these. For four years, actually. It was quite troubling at first, but once I figured out the triggers and the resolution, I could live with it. Let me recount the issue in my usual excess of detail.

    The first occurrence was a month after I purchased the car (but only a week after we started using it), on or about September 1, 2000. There were about 86,000 miles on the car. After driving for about 14 hours that day with only stops for fuel, we pulled to the side of the road for a 4-hour sleep break. About 45 minutes into the break, I awoke to find the car unbearably cold. I tried to start it to warm the cabin. The car cranked and cranked, but did not start. I was concerned, since we were about 150 miles from the nearest town in either direction. In my usual fashion, I went back to sleep. Two hours later, I tried starting it again, and it fired right up. MIL was on, but turned off after driving a short while.

    A week later, having arrived home in Fairbanks, I was at a feed store about 6 miles from home. I had driven the car on a few errands prior, so it was warmed up, but had no problems restarting it. I was in the store about 15-20 minutes. Upon trying to start, it just cranked, but would not fire. Being stubborn, I continued my efforts until the battery on the car finally died. At this point, I was very annoyed at the car (keep in mind I had only owned it for one month). I ended up walking home, retrieving my pickup, and coming back to jump it. It fired right up. :confuse:

    I quickly realized, as the problem randomly persisted, that it would do this to me under the following conditions:

    1. Any temperature, be it 90 above or 50 below.
    2. The car had to be started 45 minutes or less after last running for the problem to manifest. Overnight, after work, etc., I never had a problem starting it.
    3. I could crank it until the battery died, but it would not start.
    4. The car was not going to start if I cranked it more than 6 times without it firing.

    The solution to the immediate circumstance was to wait for five minutes, then try again. Within four waiting cycles (20 minutes), it would start. I never had a dead battery again because of this problem.

    The complicating issue is that the car also stalled occasionally when I first bought it, but would only do so within the first 3-4 miles of driving and when the engine was at idle. After spending several hundred dollars on diagnostics for these problems (even though the MIL came on, the ECU never recorded any codes according to the mechanics), one mechanic suggested I replace the mass airflow sensor. It was expensive, but I went ahead and purchased a used one from a bone yard. The stalling problem never happened after this (spring of 2001 at this point) and the no-start issue was less frequent.

    Finally, in August of 2004 with about 165,000 miles on the odometer, I started having severe cold-start issues with the car. It ran rough, tried to stall out constantly, and would only behave after the engine warmed up to operating temperature. The ECU recorded multiple codes, including misfires and knock, crank, and camshaft sensors. I decided to go for the sensors first, and replaced all three of them. The cold-start issues were gone and, coincidentally (?), I never experienced another no-start situation as described above. I had the car to 220,000 miles in December 2006, so that was another 55,000 miles with no problems starting.

    This does not provide a clear course of action, but my experience leads me to believe that the problem is related to sensors and/or the ECU rather than a mechanical cause. If not, though, I would check the fuel system (versus spark or air) first. While I could crank it and mess around until the battery died, the car never flooded, so it may not have been receiving fuel. You can tell if it floods - you will be able to hear it as the car cranks (it sounds like the engine has less resistance as the starter cranks it). To clear a flood situation, just press and hold the accelerator to the floor until it clears and the engine starts firing.

    It might be helpful to have an OBD-II scanner available to check for codes any time the light comes up.

    I about tore my hair out over the whole thing at first. Now, though, I fondly remember the vehicle as the best and most versatile I have yet owned. How is that for irony? :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jjcunninghamjjcunningham Member Posts: 13
    My 96 legacy would crank and crank & simply not start once a week or so, usually when run a short while & left for a few minutes...eg a quick shopping trip.
    Always started eventually (5-10 min) & ran ok rest of day.... Occasionally died in slow traffic also & immediately restarted.

    Changing camshaft position sensor made it better.... then also changing crankshaft position sensor cured it.

    Arc
  • mradermrader Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 outback (117,000 miles, I bought it used), I was told today that I have a blown head gasket and there is a strong possibility of warping. I don’t know if I should pay to have the motor pulled to assess the damage and then pay for the repairs. I don’t think I will get another Subaru and I’m not in a place to get a replacement vehicle until the end of summer. If I wanted to get rid of it, does any one have any resources where/how to sell it and get the most honest $$ I can.
  • calimaricalimari Member Posts: 2
    Hi, and thank you for replying to my post. There is 130,000 miles on the car. I forgot to mention that little fact. Since I know absolutely nothing about Subaru's, (my last car for 14 yrs. was a Nissan), I really appreciate the information.

    What you wrote makes sense, although my mechanical knowledge of cars is minimal. I have nothing else to go by, and very little money. I am going to try to replace the sensors, (and hopefully they aren't too expensive). I do know someone with the scanner, so I guess checking for codes would also be a good idea.

    I feel like I got a good deal when I bought this car, but it will only be a good deal if the car runs without major issues. The car not starting has already caused some problems for me. I hope I can be as lucky as you, and be able to drive this car for as long as you were able to drive yours.

    Thanks again!
  • jjcunninghamjjcunningham Member Posts: 13
    The sensors are not too expensive.... Perhaps why you got a good deal is because the previous owner was not able to diagnose the problem.. i would not have either, unless someone here had suggested the solution a while back..
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Calimari,

    I had the engine out of the car twice - the first time was to replace leaking oil seals/gaskets at 145,000, the second time was to replace head gaskets at 192,000. Both were time intensive processes, but neither were at all expensive (shop labor is the expensive part, which I was able to save by performing the work myself). I would likely still have the car with over 240,000 on it had it not been destroyed last winter. I am still sad about that.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    What led the person who diagnosed the problem to suspect a strong possibility of warping?

    The repairs, performed by a shop, are indeed expensive. Probably around $2,000 assuming warped heads. How long have you had the car?

    The "salvage" value on the car is highly dependent upon where you live and the overall condition of the rest of the vehicle. But, you have to consider the market value for the car in good condition (including the engine) and essentially subtract the cost of replacing the engine.

    If you have any mechanical knowledge at all, I would suggest performing the repair yourself (except the head resurfacing, which is not overly expensive). If I can do it, anyone can. ;)

    Consider that if you do opt to have the car repaired (or replace the engine) and keep it another couple years or more with normal maintenance, the invested money already paid for itself.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • millssubarumillssubaru Member Posts: 3
    ">our 2007 Outback 2.5 has 18k miles and has intermittent grinding noises when coming to a stop. almost sounds like a groan lowering in pitch- it is speed dependent. in the past 6-8 months the dealer has replaced front brake rotors, front wheel bearings(twice) and several other front end related items .... but to no avail. the noises only show up when the car is warmed up and has been in stop and go driving conditions. Never shows up on freeway driving .... the regional rep says that this is a brake issue caused by harmonic vibration of the front disc brakes .... he wants to replace the pads and scour the rotors. Ever heard of this issue or the recommended solution ?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wow, I was thinking wheel bearings all the way. So even the new ones didn't quiet the noise, brand new?
  • millssubarumillssubaru Member Posts: 3
    the replacement of the wheel bearings didn't do a thing for the noise ... even brand new ... could it be something in the (god forbid) transmission ?? or does the brake harmonic scenario sound plausible ???
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Did you get a look at the rotors? See if the wear is uneven, if you notice any patterns. Does it pulsate when you brake at highway speeds? They would warp eventually.
  • millssubarumillssubaru Member Posts: 3
    didn't get a look at the rotors, unfortunately. when they replace the pads, I'll try to be around the dealer when they do the rotor scoring ..... but there is not pulsating at highway speeds either ... this one's really a mystery - to me and - most distressingly - a mystery to the dealer !! this is our 5th Subaru/Outback and it has had more issues in a year than all the prior cars together .... don't like to say it, but "they don't build them like they used to ....."
  • mradermrader Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the reply.
    I bought the car 4 years ago used. the same cars are selling in Colorado for $5000-6000 in good to fair condition (of course with a running engine).

    The mechanic stated it would cost aprox $800 to get the motor out and evaluate then approx $2000-5000 to repair depending how bad the warping is. investing that amount of money into an already 11 year old car is intimidating. When do you suggest walking away and getting rid of it as opposed to a replacement car.
  • chartierschartiers Member Posts: 6
    I just got a '92 Legacy wagon with 86K miles and I'm still trying to learn about it. It runs and rides fine.

    When you push the Height button on the console, nothing happens. The indicator say HI and that's where it stays. All the fuses under the dash are all OK. Not sure where to check next. Should I try to get it back to Normal or does it really matter?

    Also noticed a green male and female connector under the dash on the left side that is disconnected (not the one that makes the Check Engine light flash). I could try to connect it and see what happens, but with my luck it would probably trigger the ejector seat.

    Jim
  • tbragg44tbragg44 Member Posts: 24
    MRader,

    I just spent $3500 for a completely rebuilt motor to replace the 2.5L in my 99 Outback. Even though that sounds like a lot of money, I now have a zero-time engine in a chassis that is known for its long-term value. I expect we'll easily get another 125K miles out of this engine. A new engine from Subaru is over $7000.

    We weighed the options of replacing the blown engine or selling the chassis / body for salvage without a running engine. Without the engine, we expected very low market value. Then we looked at what kind of used car we could then buy for $3500, knowing it would be old, high mileage, and with its share of problems - some apparent, some hidden, likely to be discovered on a dark country road miles from any cellular service.

    $3500 for a full rebuild sounded like very reasonable peace of mind. I did all the work to R&R the engine, and the incidentals like belts, hoses, fluids and gaskets were less than $100. Considering today's shop rates for labor, $800 may be fairly reasonable. I can recommend my source for the rebuild if you like.

    Hope this is helpful,

    T B
  • mramseymramsey Member Posts: 2
    I have had the car since November and there was no evidence of serious water problems before we purchased the car. When we have a good rain water leaks from the back hatch area into the trunk space. It is draining through the rear center seatbelt and the passenger tether restraint. Anyone know if this is coming from the moon/sun roof drain, leaking in from the hatch, or other? If so, what is the most effective and cheapest way of solving this issue.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I vote moonroof as the likely culprit.

    I think there is a tube that's supposed to drain the water, that probably came loose. You may have to remove the headliner to gain access, though.

    Good luck.
  • bufwxguybufwxguy Member Posts: 10
    Well, it worked out great. Dealership was very cooperative. After the coolant conditioner was added, a couple weeks later the drivers side head gasket started leaking again, and the passenger side started leaking for the first time. Dealer replaced both sides, no charge under "good will" warranty. Yes, no charge. Subaru stood behind their product here.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Glad to hear they took care of you. :)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like a brake issue to me. Caliper may be siezed up or pads/rotors need a replacing. Since it's under warranty let them take care of it for yah.

    -mike
  • mramseymramsey Member Posts: 2
    It was a chore, but it should be fixed. We will find out soon because it rained again last night.
    Thank you.
  • jjcunninghamjjcunningham Member Posts: 13
    Caliper sticking? Does the car kind of pull to one side?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I had a 92 with the height adjustable feature, mine ran low as the air pump was leaking. its probably better you are stuck in high mode than low! IIRC it was almost $500 back almost 10 yrs ago to fix it. if its riding ok, I'd probably leave it alone.
  • chartierschartiers Member Posts: 6
    Thanks - I'll probably just leave it alone as long as the car is riding fine. The fuses under the dash and hood are OK, so my guess is that it's not something simple ($$) to fix.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Looking for some opinion & guidance, as usual :)

    I'm aware of the complications regarding a high-mileage changeover from dino to synthetic engine oil - does the same cautionary tale apply to trannies & differentials?

    I'm getting some feedback from the car (the 99 GT, 160K) that a fluid change is in order. Given the mileage & uncertainty as to when it was last done, I think it's time.

    75W90, correct? And do those numbers change if I pull the synthetic trigger?

    Thanks, gang, and
    Cheers!
    Paul
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    I went and had the free 50-point inspection done on my 01 Outback with 120k miles. They noted that my power streering fluid is just starting to leak. I have to travel for work a lot in the coming weeks and the car will mostly sit for now. How urgent is this when it just starts to leak? They informed me this is common for older cars and not a huge concern right now. Just wondering about your opinions.
  • njw456njw456 Member Posts: 2
    Ok i've read thro a lot of the post and didn't find what i was looking for...
    I have a 1996 subaru legacy outback witha 2.5...the couple problems i am having are: The rear windshield wiper and washer fluid don't work at all, however the front windshield wipers and fluid work great...there is not a single fuse blowen, went thro all of them...next from under my dash comes a clicking noise when i try to change where the air blows like to defrost or just dash it feels like its stuck but still trying the only control it works on is the dash and feet so the flap to change airflow isn't moving but trying...still fuses are all fine...the last thing is the dash lights, when i turn the interior dash lights on the ones behind the climate control, just the tuner screen, and the shifter light or the one that lights up which gear your in does not turn on...I checked the one under the shifter and its not burnt out i changed it out and nothing happened...does anyone have any suggestions to were to start looking for the wire problems for the lights and what they think might be broken via the clicking behind the dash? thanks Noah
  • njw456njw456 Member Posts: 2
    depending on how bad the leak or where from normally its nothing to worry about but be sure to check the powersteering fluid before you drive it after you get back.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Same thing happend to my old Mustang and I never found it.

    Any how, keep in mind that the pickup point for the rear washer is lower. So make sure the fluid is full before you go any further troubleshooting.
  • blackbeanblackbean Member Posts: 100
    Hi All,
    I have an odd problem with my 02 Bean (H6). After the 60k service it has been leaking gear oil from the front differential dipstick (and dripping & burning on the exhaust for the last 10k miles). I brought it back to the dealer and they said the front differnetial was "full" but not overfilled. They cleaned it up and sent me on my way. Of course it still leaks and stinks. :mad:

    I noticed that the dipstick is loose (does not seat tightly like the engine oil or AT dipsticks). IThe dipstick has an o-ring on the lower part, but it does not appear damaged or flattened. I am going to ask the dealer to replace the o-ring on the next visit, but I am not confident it will fix it, given how loose it is. Is there another part to the seal inside the front differential that may be damaged or dislodged?

    If not, then I plan to add another oring at the top most part of the dipstick (right under the handle). Does this sound feasible to create atight seal? Anyone know if this type of o-ring will suffice?

    Aflas O-ring rated for brake and Petroleum Fluids
    Basic Temperature Service Range: - 20°F (-29°C) to 400°F ( 205°C)


    I was going to use a standard plumbin o-ring, but thought it would melt.

    Any advice?

    Thanks,
    Matt
  • bleuboybleuboy Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to remove a fuel tank on a 91 Subaru Legacy. The tank is rusted pretty bad and I need to get it off to clean and coat it. I have taken every visible nut and bolt out that might be holding it as well as all the line and hoses too. It will move and wiggle but just seem as if there is something toward the back center and top of the tank holding it where i can't see. If anyone has removed one or know someone who has i appreciate any and all tips!!

    Thanks

    Dillon
  • mountainwalkermountainwalker Member Posts: 40
    I'm about to pick up a 2000 Subaru Outback after not needing to own a car for several years living and working in a major metropolitan area. What regular maintenance would you perform on the vehicle and when? I like to take good care of my gear : )
  • mountainwalkermountainwalker Member Posts: 40
    I am about to purchase a 2000 Outback which I had inspected. I’ve identified the work that it needs. The inspection mechanic recommended flushing the fuel system and replacing the power steering fluid, the latter of which was discolored and definitely looked like it needs the replacement. The car has 139,000 on it with the transmission replaced at 89,000 miles. Is there any other maintenance you’d recommend now, such as flushing the radiator, ATF or gear oil, rear diff oil, etc.
  • mountainwalkermountainwalker Member Posts: 40
    I'm about to pick up a 2000 Subaru Outback after not needing to own a car for several years living and working in a major metropolitan area. What regular maintenance would you perform on the vehicle and when?

    Sincerely appreciate your advice - I like to take good care of my gear : )
  • lord150lord150 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Subaru Legacy and my factory cd player has stopped accepting cds. I would like to install an aftermarket cd player and keep the separate factory cassette/radio as well. I removed the factory cd player, and the plugs are unlike what I have seen on aftermarket cd players. I have one round plug which goes to the back of the cassette player and one small rectangular plug which goes into the wiring harness behind the unit. Is there any way to install a new aftermarket cd player into this set up? Adapter maybe? Or do I need to purchase a whole new cassette/radio/cd combo to install?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Any car that is new to me usually gets the following maintenance items done, unless I know absolutely that they were done...

    Coolant drain/fill
    ATF/Trans drain/fill
    F+R Diffy fluid drain/fill
    Plugs (unless it's under 100k, and had platinums from factory)
    Wires (if applicable)
    Brake Fluid flush
    Brake Pads (Rotors if needed)
    Tire Replacements

    It will usually cost about $1,000 for that but it's well worth it to be on a level playing field.

    -mike
  • mountainwalkermountainwalker Member Posts: 40
    Hi Mike,

    Thank you kindly - would you also add to the list:
    - Fuel system flush?
    - Power steering fluid drain/fill (it's discolored and probably hasn't been changed in a while - garage recommended it)?

    Also, below, what is ATF? By wires, did you mean spark plug wires?

    Also, for all the items below, I'll be receiving all the service records of the car from day one before having the garage do anything - which of these below would you skip if they were done X months before brining the car in? How many months would be OK in each case?

    Coolant drain/fill
    ATF/Trans drain/fill
    F+R Diffy fluid drain/fill
    Plugs (unless it's under 100k, and had platinums from factory)
    Wires (if applicable)
    Brake Fluid flush
    Brake Pads (Rotors if needed)
    Tire Replacements

    I'd agree it's well worth spending the money to do this. The way I see it, if you can get a good deal on an owner-to-owner used car and have it carefully inspected, it's well worth putting in the work - as long as the maintenance and repairs are reasonable, you will still pay thousands of dollars less than if you bought from a used car dealer which is supposed to do the work (and doesn't always), but which adds a big markup.

    Example - the same model year of the Subaru Outback I'm purchasing from the original owner was selling for double the price on the lot of the Subaru authorized dealership/garage where I had my car inspected, and my model has far more features and is in much better condition.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd get the PS fluid flushed if it's discolored.

    ATF = Automatic Trans Fluid

    Wires= Spark Plug wires, if your car has them, some of the newer cars do not have wires but have a coil-on-plug setup, those do not need replacing.

    I would say on the list unless the item was done in the last 3-6 months, then you should re-do it. If you are handy you can do most of it yourself in a day.

    -mike
  • mountainwalkermountainwalker Member Posts: 40
    The 2000 Subaru Outback Ltd I'm picking up checked out quite well in a thorough inspection by the best Subaru authorized garage in the area (very good reputation with local Subaru owners). Below is what was found in inspection and what the garage recommended. I wanted to ask:
    a) Do you think the minor oil leaks should be dealt with now or can wait a few months – most of our drives will be 5 min to 1 hour locally, but we want to be able to use the car for an occasional weekend trip up to 2-4 hours away.
    b) Is there anything else you’d recommend?
    c) Do you think the repair estimates are fair?

    1) The tires are mismatched and not to spec – tires must be replaced – even though they have most of tread on them, current tires are 2 sets of two – not matched for tread or exact size and this can stress drive train. According to Subaru specs, there can be no more than 2/32 in. variance in tire size and wear, and tire tread must match. Cost per tire $95-140; Total cost four tires = $380-560
    Several minor leaks:
    2) Cylinder head gaskets are leaking
    3) Rear main seal is leaking
    4) Oil pump leaking
    To access 2-4 with the least amount of labor, the engine must be removed. Without taking out the engine, the cost of repairing items 2-4 would be $2700-3000 because of the extra labor time required to access these separately (for example, the rear main seal by removing the transmission, the oil pump by accessing through the radiator). By taking out the engine and reducing labor, the total cost of repairing the oil leaks in 2-4 = $1500
    5) Fuel system flush - $99 – must be performed on high mileage cars
    6) Power steering flush - $109 – must be performed on high mileage cars; Capitol checked the steering fluid and it was discolored and very dirty, indicating it hasn’t been changed.
    Once the engine is removed, the following items could require repair (other repairs may be discovered, but these are most likely based on today’s inspection):
    7) Cleaning and resurfacing cylinder heads - given the mileage, the most likely cause of the cylinder head leaking is the cylinder heads being over tolerance, which requires sending them for cleaning and resurfacing – $200
    8) Timing belt likely needs replacing - if not replaced last 60-90,000 miles = $80
    9) Spark plug wires and spark plugs replacement: $120-200 ($120 regular, $200 platinum)
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