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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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    daronadidasdaronadidas Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 95' Legacy L wagon, FWD. There was a cracked vent tube on top of the the front differential that I replaced with a new one from the dealer. Soon after replacing that tube, gear oil from the diff began to push the dipstick out. Ive lost two already while driving. I assume that pressure was building up inside the diff from heat and pushing it out. Is there any other vent tubes or vents on that front diff? Any one had this problem before? 'Preciate any ideas and help.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I own a '96 Legacy Outback wagon. 265K miles on it. I inherited it from a friend, so I've only owned it about 5 months. Yesterday, as my husband was driving, the clutch started to make a loud "click" noise whenever he pushed it in. We are fearful that the clutch is going and will need to be totally replaced soon, but we thought there was a chance that something was just loose and needed to be tightened. What do you all think? Thanks so much!

    Sounds like the throwout or pilot bearing. You need to drop the trans to do them, so might as well change them along with the clutch as well.

    -mike
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The gentleman at the dealership said it was so high due to the precious metals in it. to answer ateixeira, the warranty is over, of course. lol I believe there has to be something else to boost the cat or clean it, maybe even hit the junk yard for a used one would be more cost friendly, I would hate to trade it in for another just to come up with the same problems in an unrealistic time frame..... kat

    It's illegal for junk yards to sell used catalytic converters.

    As for price it should be around $1500 for a new one, installed.

    As for warranty, the emissions warranty is 80k IIRC.

    I'd personally buy a generic cat and have a muffler shop swap it in for the stocker.

    -mike
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Looking at buying a 2005 legacy gt manual w/80K miles, 1 owner and carfax is clean, besides timing belt change in 10K, do I need to worry about anything else like turbo replacement.

    I have an 05 LGT 5MT Wagon and I regularly track it on the road courses here in the Northeast. Just rolled over 57k miles, no issues so far! Just got back from 2 days at Pocono Raceway, did a few back to back sessions so I was pushing it to it's limit for about an hour straight right up to redline several times a minute!

    -mike
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    kbinkekbinke Member Posts: 3
    I have a 92 legacy that was overheating and the heater was not working. We put in a new thermostat, water pump, sensor and new radiator hoses. The car worked for 2-3 days and now is overheating again. The water is full and there are no leaks. What would be the next step, any ideas?
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    kbinkekbinke Member Posts: 3
    I ahve a 92 legacy that was overheating and the heater was cold. We replaced the thermostat, water pump, and sensor, along with the radiator hoses. It worked for 2-3 days and now is overheating again. The water remains full and there are no apparent leaks. What should I check for now, any ideas?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Is the radiator cold when it's overheating? Or is it hot as well?

    -mike
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    margot2margot2 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 outback with 45,000 mi. I have new brakes, new tires, and have been rigorous on oil changes. What is needed for a cross country trip ? Spark Plugs? Filters? Fluids? Belts?....I am getting different info from dealerships. Also, please let me know what I should be doing for a low altitude car moving to 7000 feet altitude? Should I take care of an adjustment for altitude now or later?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would do the following:

    Plug Replacement
    Air Filter
    Oil Change
    Coolant Change
    Drive Belts (Alternator and A/C)

    If you haven't done the 30k, then I'd get done also:
    Trans/Diffy Fluid Changes
    Brake Fluid Flush
    Fuel Filter Change

    As for altitude adjustment, the ECU will compensate for it w/o any external adjustments.

    -mike
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    margot2margot2 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks, Mike....
    Wow...that's a lot of moola.....I would think that when I got new brakes, they put in the new brake fluid. Wouldn't you....or is it not a mandatory thing.? What do you think this all might cost ????
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They probably didn't flush the brakes, cause it's a PITA and no one realizes how important it is. It should have been done at the 30k service if you got that done, as it's required every 3yr/30k miles.

    It shouldn't cost a whole lot. The shop I own we do a 30k/60k which would encompass all of the above for around $400 or so.

    -mike
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    margot2margot2 Member Posts: 7
    You wouldn't happen to be in Maryland...?? Would ya? Your price is much better than I am getting from both dealerships and private shops. I have a price for $383. which doesn't include the flushes / trans/diff fluid changes/.....
    It is drive belt replace, air filter replace, spark plugs, fuel filter....$383.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Oh forgot mine price wouldn't include the belts, but figure on those being about $75-100 more than that.

    We are actually in NJ :(

    -mike
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    margot2margot2 Member Posts: 7
    Oh well. I guess it's relative to competition and location. There's not much competition where I live just 4 garages or so....(eastern shore of md). So, everyone is a big fish in a small pond. Thanks, mike.....I will have this info in hand and negotiate a good price...hopefully.
    Margot :)
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    taz16taz16 Member Posts: 29
    :confuse:

    HI, I looking foward to buying a 2005 Legacy 2.5 XT Limited and I'm wondering can I use 89 midgrade fuel in the turbo?

    I know it might cause a drop in performance, I'm really not worried about that, I'm worried if I mite mess up the engine? :sick:

    -Thanks
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    ottawasubaruottawasubaru Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I'm planning to change the rear wiper motor for my 1996 outback -- I have removed the 5 or so pins under the molding, thinking that that's all I need. However, the molding still would not come off! It appears that the molding is one large bottom unit including the plastic "shield" that wraps around the wiper motor from the inside.

    Does anyone have any idea on how to remove it?

    thanks
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    birdmanbobbirdmanbob Member Posts: 2
    hi mike, or anyone else in the know:
    sorry if you have covered this item b4, but i didn't see it. i need to get at the fuel lines on top of fuel tank on 91 awd legacy wagon as fuel is practically gushing out when car is turned on. no, i am driving it at the moment! i assume i have a corrosion induced break in a line up there as fuel is running down off front of tank. my big question is: is there is an access panel in this model too - like you referred to in 96 legacy sedan. where exactly do i get at it from above. if no access panel, can i cut one? removing tank on this model, esp considering its age and condition, looks just about impossible, and way impractical.
    thx
    bob
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    kbinkekbinke Member Posts: 3
    No, the radiator is hot. Well at least the fluid is hot and the hoses are hot.
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    ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Short answer: no. Don't do it.

    The lower boost engine in the WRX and Forester "recommend" premium fuel, but the higher boost Legacy and Outback turbos require premium, i.e. 91 octane.

    You could mix half 89 and half 93, to get 91, but I doubt it's worth the hassle for a few pennies.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Pull your rear seat and you will have access to the panel for the top of the tank. It's on the passenger side just behind where the seat back mounts. 4 Phillips screws hold the panel in place. Then a bunch of 8mm bolts hold the connections that go in the tank. My guess is either one of the rubber fuel lines is leaking or the gasket that goes around the panel that accesses the top of the tank.

    I've opened the one in my 94 legacy a bunch of times.

    -mike
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    nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    What drives the valve train in the 2.5L engine in a 2006 Outback? Belts...Chains...Gears? Do any of the components require scheduled replacement or inspection?
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    fordwrenchfordwrench Member Posts: 70
    Does anyone know if there is a supercharger kit avalable for an '03 Legacy? If not what can I do to waken this car up. It is a 5 speed sedan.
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    lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Does anyone know if there is a supercharger kit avalable for an '03 Legacy? If not what can I do to waken this car up. It is a 5 speed sedan

    JDM front clip for the previous generation Impreza STI? EJ2.5T I think. 300hp

    Is it worth it? Of course not, but I don't think 3k on a supercharger on a 6 year old relatively inexpensive car is either.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    What drives the valve train in the 2.5L engine in a 2006 Outback? Belts...Chains...Gears? Do any of the components require scheduled replacement or inspection?

    It's in the manual but, 30k intervals check the timing belt. 105k interval change the belt.

    -mike
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Does anyone know if there is a supercharger kit avalable for an '03 Legacy? If not what can I do to waken this car up. It is a 5 speed sedan.

    Trade it in for an 05 LGT.

    If you must keep it, do suspension, tires, brakes and you'll be faster w/o adding any power. There are no superchargers for the car. The only viable upgrade in terms of power is a motor swap with a WRX either 2.0 or 2.5 Turbo motors. However all the components needed to do a complete swap with labor runs in the $8-10k range.

    -mike
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    nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Thank you. Are the belts made of rubber or are they metal chains? If the belt happens to break, will the valves be damaged by interference with the pistons as on some engines? My daughter has the car now, and I want to warn her about having the belt checked. The car currently has about 26K miles.
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    pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/timin-belt-info.htm

    This has a list of engines, makes, and models. Not sure on reliability, but it's a start.
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    nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Thank you, pilot1226. This is exactly the information I was seeking. Thanks for your help.
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    nmsubarunmsubaru Member Posts: 5
    I completely drained the battery by leaving the keys in the ignition overnight. I was able to jump start the car, but it would not hold the charge--the car would eventually conk out after driving it around the neighborhood.

    I took the battery to Autozone for a complete recharge and test. When I put the battery back in the car it started and ran just fine--I had it on about 30 minutes. However, the electrical system and brake warning light still remain on, even after turning the car off and restarting again.

    Is this just a computer quirk or could there be a problem with the alternator or something else? I've had no problems before and the battery is only about 9 months old. I'm planning on getting it checkout out either at a local mechanic close to my office or at the subaru dealer. Any ideas about what might be going on and what I should do. Thanks for any help.
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Probably the alternator.

    -mike
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    nmsubarunmsubaru Member Posts: 5
    So if the alternator is failing, should I risk driving it the 15 minutes to the dealer or just have it towed?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If the battery is fully charged then 15 min shouldn't be a problem to get there.

    -mike
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    nmsubarunmsubaru Member Posts: 5
    Okay Mike I'll let you know what happens. I guess after 8 years I can expect a few things to start breaking down. Still love the car however.

    Greg
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    pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Hello, I have this rattling noise under the car in my '01 Outback Ltd Wagon. It currently has 120,000 miles and has had the 120k full service and the special Subaru 50-point inspection in the last few months.

    No ones seem to have found this rattling sound that I hear- especially when you are starting to slow down and the car starts to idle again. Funny enough, I was running the other night and I heard the infamous 'Subie" car sound coming up behind me. Then, as it passed, it made the same tiny rattling sound!! With very little mechanical backing, I would guess the heat shield and something in the muffler. Any other thoughts?

    I am not about to take it back to the dealer for hundreds more dollars- just curious.
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    subiegtsubiegt Member Posts: 1
    I have had to subaru's a 97 legacy GT and my 04 outback. I can tell you this its more than likely the heat shield. On my 97 they actually removed it. I've noticed on my 04 it rattles when I'm in second and going really slow or when its idling with the A/C on.
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    pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    I'm in the process now to purchase a 2009 legacy (once they reach the local dealer...), can you clue me in on:

    "Funny enough, I was running the other night and I heard the infamous 'Subie" car sound coming up behind me."

    What's the infamous "Subie" sound? Is there something that's mechanically prone to failure?
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    pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Shouldn't the Battery Light illuminate if there's a problem with the alternator? I've seen this on other cars that shows a problem with the battery (IE, losing a charge or not maintaining one...)... Or do they not have a battery fault light?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's not a specific subie rumble. Porsches, Subies, the original VW Beetle and the Ferrari Testarosa all had the sound, the sound of a Boxer Engine!

    The rattleing is in fact a heat shield you will hear it in the 100-120k mile area and is fairly common on the subies.

    -mike
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    pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Does the heat shield need to be replaced or does it just get that way over time?
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    paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The welds loosen up over time/weather, so it's easier just to remove them. That's what I've done over the years.

    -mike
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    nmsubarunmsubaru Member Posts: 5
    Okay, I made it to the mechanic and as expected it was the alternator. So after 84,000 miles and almost eight years I have had the following issues the past 18 months: right cv boot (replaced), noc sensor (replaced), alternator (replaced)exterior door lock fell inside front right door (fixed by family friend) and failure of window switch in door (same friend bailed me out). A run of repairs that is a bit irritating, but all in all I still like the car and would consider buying another one. Just need to keep an eye on the cooling system and hope to avoid a head gasket issue.
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    pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Things'll happen when the car passes around 5 years old - but that's any car from what I've seen. My Honda Civic - which is supposed to be very reliable, has been finicky lately.

    I suppose as long as your repairs are less per year than a year's worth of car payments, you're good to go.
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    pilot1226pilot1226 Member Posts: 166
    Did the "Charge warning light" come on when the engine is
    running?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    For next time---never, ever try to charge up a completely dead battery with only your alternator as the charging medium. This often puts a big strain on the alternator and the battery, and since your alternator was old, this may have pushed it over the edge. Also, never jump start a battery that has gone completely totally dead. This can be dangerous. It should be taken out and charged.

    Visiting Host, Subaru owner as well
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    lostohnlostohn Member Posts: 1
    Help my 2001 Subaru Outback is having electrical problems. In one year I have replaced three alternators and three batteries and now I cannot trust my vehicle
    A year ago I left the car sitting in my driveway for three weeks. After that while driving the ABS light came on and the gauges fluttered. Then the car suddenly stopped running. I brought it to an independent garage. They told me the alternator was not charging. They replaced the alternator and the battery. After only a few weeks it quit on me. I was out of town and I brought it into a CT. They tested and told me the alternator was not charging. They replaced the alternator. A few weeks later it quit again. I brought it a local CT. After testing they told me the alternator was not charging and replaced it.
    Then I brought the car into my local Subaru dealer. They tested and told me the battery was defective. I replaced it but the garage that had sold it they told me it tested fine. After that, I drove for ten months without problems. Last week the problem came back. I was on a trip and I brought the car into another CT. They tested and said that the battery was low and not charging. I replaced the battery and completed my trip under some duress because I was concerned the problem would reoccur. Again the garage told me the battery tested fine. I have noticed that the charge warning light does not always come on when I start the car.
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    nmsubarunmsubaru Member Posts: 5
    To clarify, the charge warning light is what came on along with the brake light after I got the car running again after I reinstalled the the battery I got recharged at Autozone.

    We seem to be doing okay after getting the alternator replaced on Monday.

    I'll remember the advice from Mr. Shiftright about avoiding jump starting a completely dead battery--it was obvious that the alternator could not keep up with the power demand when I got the car going again.

    Greg
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    carmaven18carmaven18 Member Posts: 21
    We have a 2002 Outback Sedan H6-3.0 . Today we noticed that the right brakelights were not working. We tried replacing the bulbs and fuses, but nothing worked. The wires seem to be connected, although it is possible that somewhere along the line they are not and we just can't see it. Although the tail light does not work, the right turn signal functions properly. Does anyone have any idea as to what is causing this problem, and what can be done to fix it? Thanks.
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    ramone899ramone899 Member Posts: 3
    Hi. I have a 1997 Outback wagon with about 112,000 miles on it. It has had all of it's major required services since I bought it new. While driving it on a highway recently the "check engine" light came on, in yellow rather than red letters (someone told me that the color is significant and that red is worse than yellow). The light stayed on until I had to refuel the car, after which the light went out. I thought it must have been something with the gas cap but then the light came back on. The car has been starting and running great the whole time.
    Before I take it somewhere to be charged $100+ for checking codes, does anyone have any opinions as to what might make the check engine light come on, go off, come back on, etc.? Thanks.
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    cd68cd68 Member Posts: 11
    Has anyone replaced the standard Legacy wheels and tires with something larger? What has been the overall driving difference?

    I'm going to be purchasing a 3.0R later this year, but the standard tires seem a bit small. I was thinking 18 inch wheels (perhaps 7.5 or 8), with something like a 235 tire.

    Any recommendations???
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    cd68cd68 Member Posts: 11
    This will be about 75 miles away, and I'm sure you're looking for something a bit closer to the Silicon Valley region, but I highly recommend California Auto Repair in Modesto. I've been taking my cars there for over 20 years.
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