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Thought it wise to do one last oil change and get a condition overview before advertising car and was chagrined to learn that the head gaskets are starting to leak. Our mechanic steered us to subaruheadgasket.com Apparently this is quite a common situation - though 3500 miles ago, gaskets were seemingly oil leak free. Sigh.
Looking back on this car's repair history, I'd have to say from the time it hit around 35k it's been one of the most expensive to maintain that I've ever owned. Our other autos are Mazda and Infiniti.
My conundrum: shell out about 2k to replace head gaskets (and timing belt) which would be prudent in another 15k miles - and attempt to get a a firm $6500, or price the car around 4500 with the caveat about the head gasket leaks.
Thanks for any input.
S
1. The ABS light goes on and stays on while driving
2. When the headlights are off, tapping the brakes will turn them on and also switches all of the interior lights to "headlight mode" (clock and radio backlights dim, all buttons will become illuminated).
2.a This also happens if you tap the brakes when the car is off and the key is out - the radio and interior lights will iluminate, and even the headlights will turn on, although quite dim.
3. Turning on the headlights with the car off will activate the shift interlock system (that click you hear near the shifter when you depress the brake so that you can take it out of park).
Any ideas on where to start looking?
I own a 2005 Outback 2.5i wagon. Recently my cargo flap (the part that blocks between the extended cover and the hatch) fell off. One of its brackets snapped in half, so it's not as easy as hooking the flap back in place.
Are there shops or sites that sell just a replacement bracket, or if need be, a whole new flap? I don't think the existing bracket is repairable, and there are times I'd like to be able to shield the whole cargo area from view.
Thanks,
sb
Both engines were replaced at about 60,000 miles, my husband's last December, and mine this month, when it hit, ironically, about 60,000 miles.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Visiting Host
Also, you might find out the code that was stored in the computer. If it was P0420, "Catalytic Converter Below Threshold," it may be more complicated than a "bad cat." Oxygen sensors that are beginning to gum up with deposits can cause false positives for the P0420 code, and that means if you replace the cat, you might still have the code return.
Now, if the oxygen sensors are original on the car, and especially if you have noticed a drop in fuel economy either lately or gradually, it may certainly be time to change the sensors. I think they are somewhere around $100 each.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
See you there!
Cracked blocks are rare. Gaskets fail and then overheat, and some times the heads end up warped. That's more common. I wonder if that's what your mechanic meant? Warped heads?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Do you smell rotten eggs behind the car? That's a sign that your cat is shot. If it's clogged then you'll have real poor acceleration and the car will feel choked.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
A louder noise from the engine, when and where do you notice it? Is this something with idling while you're stationary, or all the time? I wonder if this could be the sign of a new muffler? (I replaced a muffler on my `01 Civic about a year ago at ~80,000 miles.)
Why does the radio suck? Is it a setting that possibly could have been changed (my young nieces love playing with the knobs on the radio and I caught them changing the bass way up accidentally, making the sound ... suck.) Check your settings, set the treble/bass/fade/balance to where you want it. Perhaps you were overzealous with the bass and blew the speaker? See if it's coming from just one speaker, or if the bad sound is from all.
Other thing, check your CD. Try other CD's compared to radio. This'll tell you if it's a signal reception issue, or an audio issue.
I'm pretty sure that Subarus in 2002 had the all-time AWD, so I don't think that when you make a sharp turn the AWD suddenly kicks on as you suggest. This could possibly be something related to the axle (the forum gurus can explain better I'm sure), but from the perspective of a novice do-it-yourselfer, I'd say just pop the hood and check on the fluid levels of your power steering. Per your owner's manual, if you're taking a sharp turn as to moving the wheel to the extreme side (where you can't turn it in that direction any more), you should not hold it in this position for more than 6 seconds or you could damage the Power Steering pump.
If your fuel sensor is throwing out an error code, it's possible that the wrong ratio of fuel:air is being deposited into the combustion chambers, which could explain why it sounds like it's running a little rough around the edges. Error codes are never a good thing, stop by AutoZone and get the OBD II checked for free.
Good luck!
Radio - not going to touch it. Pilot's suggestions are probably as good as any in the absence of a description.
Noise on turning: One of two things - either it is a differential on the fritz or it is a CV joint in one of the front axles. If the sound is just a grinding when turning sharply in *one* direction, it is a CV joint. If the car shudders (vibrates badly) and there is chirping from the tires when you turn sharply in either direction, that is a differential. I would hope for the CV joint.
My 2000 Outback has made a noise when making right turns since the day I purchased it with 56K on it. It now has 92K and it is more of an annoyance than anything else since it really has not gotten any worse. It is a a rotational shudder type of sound that increases or decreases in intensity depending upon the speed that I'm travelling in the turn. It also is more pronounced the tighter the turn. It does not do the same thing on left turns which leads me to believe it may be in the right axle(?) I have replaced the front brake rotors twice thinking that one may be warped but it didn't resolve the problem. I had it to the dealer once and maybe it was Murphy's law or they just didn't feel like investigating it but they told me they didn't notice anything wrong. Any suggestions???
Thanks!
My '96 Outback did this when I purchased at 83,000 miles. I do not think it would have been a major issue if I had never addressed it, but it probably would cause some premature wear on the driveshaft components. A used replacement part was $230, but I never had the issue again after 140,000 additional miles.
A bearing is not easy to change especially not without a press.
Checking the bearing is pretty easy, shaking the wheel you'll hear a tinny noise similar to putting pressure on the sides of a soda can and there will be slight movement in the wheel in/out as you push on the sidewall.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I'll roll two issues into one post.
1. I hate first gear in my car. Unless I over-gas it, the car shutters when it gets going. Anyone else have this issue? I bought the car 3 years ago and it's been a problem the whole time. The dealer said the clutch plate is the problem but it's nothing to worry about.
2. I feel like there is too much wind noise on the driver's side. It seems like there is a leak. Anyone else have that issue? Thanks.
We had a 2002 Legacy and while we did not have that issue, I always felt the throttle was not linear at all, but rather an on/off switch that made it hard to make smooth starts.
We also had a slight wind leak on the driver's window seal, but opening and closing the window would quiet it. You can adjust the window angle to try to quiet it. bitman did that on an Outback and documented the procedure in the Legacy/Outback thread a while ago.
So this past week I joined my.subaru.com and was flagged for 30,000 mile/30 month maintenance -- both overdue. I found a nearby Subaru dealer in Rye, New York, made an appointment, and asked how much this 30/30 maintenance would cost. Answer: $649 plus tax.
Here's what my.subaru.com says 30/30 maintenance consists of:
Recommended Inspection Fuel systems, lines and connections
Inspect Drive belt(s) [Except camshaft]
Inspect Camshaft drive belt
Replace Engine oil
Replace Engine oil filter
Perform Replace engine coolant and inspect cooling system, hoses and connections
Replace Air cleaner element
Replace Spark plugs
Inspect Transmission/Differential (Front & Rear) lubricants (Gear oil)
Inspect Automatic transmission fluid
Replace Brake fluid
Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions
Inspect Brake linings and drums
Perform Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system
Inspect Clutch operation
Inspect Steering and suspension
Perform Rotate and Inspect Tires
Is this service worth $649 -- essentially $700 with tax -- and, if not, what should I do instead?
I haven't had any problems with the car so far ... it's driven just fine.
Everything else is an "inspection."
If you can eyeball hoses brakes and stuff, I'd just bring the car to an indie. My guess is you'd be saving yourself $300 at least.
Dealers charge way way too much. If you need any other info shoot me an e-mail paisan@azpinstalls.com and I can get you specifics.
-mike
You guessed it, I'm Brazilian.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback with a bazillion miles on it (270,000) but it still runs great; I have been very happy with this car (even happier because it was a gift from a friend last year!)
I let the windshield washer fluid reservoir stay empty for approx 3 months. Last weekend, I put new RainX fluid in said reservoir, pressed the button for the fluid and nothing came out; I don't even hear the pump working like I usually did. What's even more interesting is that the rear one works; although, it shoots out fluid like it has prostate problems or something, so I don't really use it, but the pump works.
Any suggestions? Is there a fuse I can replace? (I know nothing about cars, obviously).
Perplexed in Albuquerque
A lot of pumps are cooled by the fluids they pump, so that could be why it failed - overheating. That happens to fuel pumps when the tank runs on empty, for instance.
It would be by your left knee, under the dash.
Pop off the cover. The cover itself should have labels. For instance, under the hood, there is a fuse labeled "Fog" for the fog lights.
Hopefully you see something like "Washer" or "WW", something like that. Take a peek.