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YOUR QUESTION
Try to pick one place or the other to discuss it, as we don't want to be duplicating efforts. Thanks!
Visiting Host
I'll try your suggestions. Since my Legacy is 6 years old, maybe the tube has begun to shrink and pull loose as well. Thanks for the post....
Mark
2003 Legacy Wagon L+
The other day a new noise cropped up in my '02 Outback (119k miles, manual transmission). It only happens when I'm in gear (first or reverse) and start letting out the clutch. I hear a sort of high-pitched whirring sound that lasts for maybe a second or two - it goes away after I get the car up to a certain speed. It goes away abruptly, not gradually, as I gain speed. It almost sounds like a squeaking belt (like a power steering belt when it gets wet). I also hear it very briefly when I shift from first to second.
I don't know how the hill-holder mechanism works - any chance this is related? Maybe something is starting to fail in that mechanism?
Any ideas?
Thanks!!
Seems like I have some clutch work in my future. In 20+ years of manual transmissions, I've never had to replace one. Can you give me a sense of how much this job will cost?
Thanks!
Cost? It would be the cost of a "clutch kit" (disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing) + about 4.5 hours labor. If the flywheel is burned, scored and needs refinishing, add .2 and to replace the pilot bushing, add .2
So total cost kind of depends on your geography and how good a deal you get on parts.
VISITING HOST
twp1
We encountered similar problem on my son's 1999 Legacy Outback. We began in the car interior as other problems existed with other electronics. We took out cluster and checked all connections. We then used digital voltmeter to check intermittent signals. Turned out we had bad connection between 5pin connector on back of head. A resolder improved connection greatly. Also resnapping all of the connectors on the head removed all of the other electronic issues inside the car.
When I first got the car back from repair (Jan '09), I found that several of the little rubber hoses (there are a handful of them tying together segments of steel lines) were indeed seeping just the slightest amount on cold starts. Tightening them stopped 90% of the problem, but there is one right angle bend in the across-the-intake-manifold routing covered by a large bracket (front of the engine, passengers side - way to the left of the alternator) under which several hose clamps are virtually inaccessable. It only takes a drop of fuel to create a large smell. As the engine warms the leak seals up, but the HVAC fan pulls the odor into the passenger compartment.
A year later it's back. Multiple attemps with a variety of fancy right angle ratching philips bits have failed to tighten them enough to positively stop the leak. Eventually, I'll either have to remove the cover (not easy...), or drill a large enough hole in it to gain access.
Old timers may remember that some '02/'03 WRX models had a similar problem on icy days. The fix was slightly longer rubber hoses that could shrink a little without pulling on the metal tubing.
My trusted mechanic checked it out and said I need a transmission rebuild. About $ 1850. + installation, clutch, bearing, fork and main seal while he's in there. Totaling about $3500.
Does that price sound right? He said the rebuild would not be more than that and probably lower but the rebuild shop wont know until they open it up.
My first thought was to sell the car if I can, it has 147,000miles and use the cash for a down payment on a newer model. I would be lucky to get 4-5k on trade in I think. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
cfj1
Don't forget that whatever the trade you don't pay state tax on the new purchase on that part.
I guess it depends on the condition of the car.
If it's in great shape it may be worth saving.
Have you considered a used transmission?
The price quote seems very high to me. It should be something like 10/11 hours + parts. You could buy a brand new transmission from Subaru for that price.
If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, e-mail me and I can put you in touch with Subaru resources.
Visiting Host
Just a guess, and I hope not, but it does meet all the criteria for your situation.
I was going to say "broken serpentine belt" which accounts for MOST of your symptoms, but if the drive belt broke you'd still be able to rev the engine and the engine should crank off the battery voltage, even without an alternator.
I would assume, being a 2000 car, that you've got a fair amount of miles on it. The 2.5L Subaru engine timing belt should be inspected at 90K, and replaced at 105K. Go beyond 105K and you run the risk of it breaking.
Bob
I thought it was my serpentine belt when it happened, but I had it changed recently, since the old one was severely cracked. It appeared on track and intact.
I really hope it isn't the timing belt. How could I tell?
I suppose you could have DOUSED the engine with water and flooded the electrics---that would be possible and fixable---hadn't thought about that.
The water theory should be easy to test - just pull out the air filter. If it is wet, there is a good chance that is the problem.
Dry the intake, change the filter, and try to start her again.
We rescued a Subaru XT6 that sucked in water once during a fun-run in the Pine Barrens. Owner was lucky it stalled right away and no engine damage occured. Very lucky.
He drove through a water crossing that went over his hood, though. It was much more than rain.
I know your mechanic hopes it was water, but I think maybe there's the possibility that this is his baby.
I had to give up my 07 legacy off lease, and my insurance is going through the roof (long story).
So I'm looking for a good reliable used car. I don't have much cash to spend. I loved my two subies but the LemonAid guide and others say that after a few years they get really expensive and have lots of transmission problems. I'm not sure if a used Forrester or Legacy is the way to go, especially since I can't afford 12-15 for one...and I don't want something that's just at the point of problems.
do they hold up well? at what point roughly is it not worth considering subarus? Alternatives like Audi and Volvo are just not in the price range, and don't seem to have as good an AWD system.
I appreciate ideas what to look for.
thanks,
Cdndriver
Musta been one of those fusible links I guess?
Anyway, it WAS the mechanic's baby after all, but it wasn't triplets!!
Lucky something didn't burn up the whole car----GEEZ!
That means you could look for a 2.2l model, lots of Imprezas 2001 and prior, and the last year the Legacy had it was the 2000 Legacy Brighton (rare).
Either that or get any turbo (high miles may bring one in your price range).
Or the H6, which launched in 2002 IIRC on the Outback VDC and LLBean. The H6 is very reliable.
Things to look for:
* head gaskets on the N/A 2.5l until 02 or so
* wheel bearings, mostly Forester/Impreza until 03/02 respectively
* check the usual stuff, front/rear main seals, diffs, axle boots, etc. for leaks
Good luck.
Today I chose option 2. Good boy...
I ended up drilling two 3/8" holes as I didn't eyeball the angle well the first time, but the second hole was a winner. A #2 philips inserted thru the hole rotated that clamp screw 3 full turns! And that's after the 2 rotations that I was able to get in using the right angle ratchet driver on a previous attempt. My sincere thanks to the guys that did the HG job for their care in re-assembling the fuel rail on the passenger side! We need a 'car face symbol' for extreme sarcasm...
I like doing it myself so I can see how much oil comes out and how it looks as it drains, and also so I know exactly how much I put in. I also like picking out the oil. I use the Subaru filter unless I am in a pinch, but because its mounted upside-down anyway, it doesn't need an anti-drainback valve so a Fram one is probably fine too.
The family truckster has ~50k, so I am thinking I will be doing brakes soon. I am trying to decide what kind of pad to use. I am also looking forward to the WRX wheels/snow tires comming off and the stock Legacy wheels with RE960s going back on, but mother nature has more to do with that.
I had the Sienna's oil changed with a coupon, ended up costing me the same (so free labor). Still didn't feel right. I kept checking the oil, thinking it was low.
I think I'll keep doing it myself most of the time.
I tried my OBD tester, which showed up nothing. I haven't actually seen what happens when it overheats. Is it worth doing some testing of my own, or should I just take it to a shop right from the beginning?
Wes's suggestions center around looking for visible signs of this - oil or exhaust contaminated coolant, steam bubbles venting, etc.
Hope this helps clarify what is likely happening.
You could also buy a cooling system pressure pump, and pressurize to no more than a few pounds over your radiator cap's rating. Then, while still under pressure, you can a) see if bubbles appear in the radiator or b) pull the spark plugs and see if coolant is on them , or get a little flex-scope and peer into the cylinders to look for coolant, or take a pipe cleaner and wiggle it around in there and see if you pick up coolant.
Head gaskets are a definite possibility here. If it is, you have to decide if the car's worth it. When doing the head gasket job, you'd might as well put in (or at least carefully inspect) the clutch if it's a stick shift, and for SURE you'll need a new radiator and maybe even a catalytic depending how how emissions read when you're done with the gaskets
There are of course other reasons for overheating, but this head gasket problem is common on these cars .
The Subaru Head Gasket Story
Visiting Host