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Comments
Mother's recommends you do it about once a month, but I think that may be a little extreme.
As for the smell itself, pop the hood. Take a peek around the oil dipstick and the oil cap, and make sure they're relatively hand tight (don't overtighten the cap because thermal expansion will make this a pain to try to get off). Check the oil level while you're at it and make sure it's not overfilled.
Then, if all looks good, take a peek around the engine block itself. See if you can see any drips. If you still can't see anything, there's some type of special flashlight/filter that will help any oil leaks illuminate. I think it's blue or red, something like that. If you go to an Auto parts store they should know exactly what I'm talking about.
As for the smell, best case scenario was that someone was sloppy in refilling the oil (these engines tend to consume some oil between changes as they mile up).
Since you have a 2003, your engine is *not* prone to the dreaded Subaru head gasket leaks.
Another possibility is a cracked CV boot from one of the front axle half-shafts. As the shaft spins, centrifugal force sends the grease inside the joint onto everything in its path. That smell is fairly distinctive, though, as it is a much fouler smell than engine oil.
Keep an eye on the oil level, just measure the same way every time.
If you smell it, though, it's probably an external leak/spill. Check the head and valve cover gaskets and the front and rear main seals for oil stains.
Problem #2 Transmission: When first starting out the transmission shifts fine. As the car warms up it seems to have a problem shifting between gears. Especially when I take my foot off the gas and slow down, then accelerate slowly. Car bucks as it goes back and forth between gears, finally selecting the lower gear and speeding up then shifting to the higher gear. On longer trips, over an hour, transmission is worse. When going uphill transmission seems to slip then catch a bunch of times before getting to the top of the hill when all is fine again. When I got home I checked the transmission fluid, level and color appeared fine. Any idea what is going on here? Can an adjustment be made or do I need a new transmission?
Maybe I missed this from somewhere else, but did you say you had an automatic or a manual transmission? I've seen a few posts in the past where people discussed some shifting issues with manual trannys. With my automatic, it takes a little time to shift into 2nd when it is very cold, but works fine once it is warmed up. If you have an automatic, then I would definitely have someone look into that issue.
Also see if there is any oil in the coolant.
Was the oil that you drained free of coolant?
A replacement transmission is a definite possibility, but I would try remedial action on the current unit first!
In my case, this was caused by oil from the oil filter being flung from the seal onto the exhaust header as I spun off the old oil filter. I resolved the problem by being careful to turn the oil filter more slowly as I removed it.
:confuse: Why have you removed your teeth several times?? :confuse:
I also picked up some M8x1.25 bolts that supposedly go into holes on the rotors to drive them off the hub. I have the Chiltons manual and the PDFs of the factory service manual for R&I calipers and rotors. I am a little worried about the parking brake hardware under the rotors. I saw that if the rear rotors won't come off, I can back down the star adjuster to get some clearance.
Is there anything else I'm forgetting?
It said to use DOT3 brake fluid...the stuff i got said its both DOT3 & DOT4 compatible. Are there any trade offs or recommendations?
Also, apply penetrating oil in advance to those two threaded holes. The 'hat' is thin, and if you strip out the limited threads, getting the rotor off will be that much harder. I also had to apply a little penetrating oil around the 5 wheel studs as everything was well fused by rust (welcome to NY!!).
Another tip - at least on my '02 - there are stainless steel spring clips that also serve as the wear indicators. When you pull the pads out of the carrier, remove the springs and clean the track that they fit into well. I even filed the slot of some rust, and used high temp brake grease behind the stainless clips so that they fit in all the way. These allow the disk brake pads to 'float' and aid in their retraction away from the disk. If they are too tight, the pads will wear prematurely and unevenly.
I don't like the way the parking brake is working now, so I have to go back and turn the adjuster a few clicks the other way.
I've done brakes enough times on enough cars that it shouldn't worry me, but the first time I do it on any car, I am always stressed I'm going to run into something I haven't seen before.
Wonder if maybe a battery reset would help? To de-program the previous remote that was synched with it?
Just a thought, try at your own risk.
I ask, because there is possible interaction between the factory alarm system (if it has the alarm module installed - it was an option on my '02 that I added myself) and the ability to enter program mode for syncing up the remotes. I don't think that the system will enter program mode if it was left in either 'Valet' or 'passive arm' modes. Read further in your owners manual about these various alarm states.
Last night I tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then reconnected and tried programming fob again. Same result, no horn beep after 10 on/offs with the key. Seems like if I can turn the alarm off with the key off/on 3 times, I should be able to enter the fob program mode with the key off/on 10 times.
Is they plastic portion of the key grey? The valet keys usually are - the masters are black. Why you would get a car with only a valet key is beyond me, though. Sounds fishy. Did you get a "shady dealer" discount so you have enough money to deal with all the crap that you will undoubtedly encounter during your ownership experience?!
The question is, why would someone do that? It is common practice locally when installing aftermarket auto-starts, but beyond that....
I don't understand trading in a car without the original keys. I hope you made a fuss about it and got the price of the car reduced a few hundred for that screw-up alone. To me, its suspicious and I might have walked on the deal.
A bare metal key stamped Subaru which I carry, a black plastic key (wife), and the grey (IIRC) valet key which is somewhere in my desk draw. No chips in '02, as the security system was an option.
You might consider talking to your insurance agent about the problems you are having and see if they can look into the DMV database for a lead on the previous owner. Appeal to them on the fact that the asset is at risk for theft as someone has viable programmed remotes out there that you cannot clear out of the system. In many states they have to power to obtain this info, but often will not do it based on privacy concerns.
:sick:
You can double check for fuel or injector problems by squirting some starting fluid in the intake---if the engine kicks off momentarily, you might have fuel pressure in the rail but no injectors opening.
You might also pull a spark plug and try to see/smell fuel on it. You can also buy inexpensive spark testers.
I'd try all these double-checks before you go tearing off the timing case cover.
visiting host
It's easy, though. 2 bolts, one quart of 75w90 gear oil. Easier than an oil change.
That's it.
What surprises me is you list the CR-V, which competes more with the Forester, and the Matrix, which was discontinued and competed with the Impreza and Outback Sport. Avoid the Matrix, because the AWD model made only 123hp last time I looked. You can't get out of your own way. The Impreza has been at 165hp since 2002.