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Comments
The only way to buy this car is to presume the engine is toast, and in that case $4000 is too much for it.
$6750 is retail dealer pricing and no bargain, so again, it's not a car you have to jump on.
There are several types of leaks that can occur with the head gaskets: External oil, external coolant, internal coolant (into oil / combustion chamber), internal combustion into coolant....
In my opinion, external oil is the best type, if it just has to leak(!), to have. I say that because generally this type of leak does not lead to engine overheating, yet it is noticeable enough to warrant action prior to any other, more serious, leaks occurring.
If you continue to pursue the purchase, you are hedging your bets well that you'll be satisfied with it in the long run.
I agree. I re-read the prior post and didn't interpret the wording that way, but my approach would be: Owner fixes, then I buy.
The fact that the owner is even willing to do this (versus trying to foist the car off on an unsuspecting buyer) speaks volumes about the individual's integrity.
As for adding oil, the 2.5L Subaru engine also tends to use oil, so if you do buy the car, and you do end up having to add oil between changes, don't freak out.
I had a 2002 with a leaky head gasket but drove it until 145k when I acquired another car (free) and had to sell it. The subie was leaking coolant and oil but ran just as long as you didn't try to use the AC when it was over 90.
I sold it to a mechanic but would say you really shouldn't pay more than $3k.
Asking prices of $10,000 are ridiculous, however.
It sounds like everyone involved did very well on this deal, and I'm sure you'll enjoy the car for as long as you elect to keep it. :shades:
I have a beloved 2002 Outback LL Bean with 194,000mi.
My 24 year-old student son has been driving it for the last two years after I moved to a 2011 model.
Today after overheating issues and hose replacement (at the dealer), I was told by an independant mechanic that there is a crack in the head gasket and the engine needs to be replaced.
My question: Do we proceed with replacing the engine? The mechanic is quoting under $2K.The car has performed admirably to date, and its only needed routine, mostly dealer, maintenance until now. No major issues (until now) and the body looks to be in good shape. I understand that no one knows for certain, but is this the start of a downward spiral (opinions welcomed)?
This forum has always been a great and reliable resource.
You've never let me down.
I vaguely remember seeing a number of people here with late '90s - early '00s Subarus needing a head gasket replacement around 100k. I don't remember anyone saying they needed to do it twice, but search for yourself.
thanks
Another possibility is that you don't have a tight connection on your negative ground terminal (or don't have a good ground between your engine block and car's body). That generation of Outback used a bracket to which the negative battery cable connects. That bracket is held in place by one of the starter bolts. If that connection (at the starter bolt) is dirty or even slightly loose, you can get symptoms of a bad ground at high draw levels. Your starter failing to engage is one such symptom. I would be surprised if this situation caused an "all or nothing," meaning that the lack of even a 'click' makes me uncertain that this issue is what you are experiencing. It is worthwhile checking out, though (given ease of inspection and lack of expense).
During a sharp turn, the wheels on the OUTSIDE of spin faster than the wheels on the INSIDE of the turn. If the AWD system does not allow for this difference in speed, the vehicle would feel as if it was jerking, crabbing or trying to 'step' around the corner.
If this situation is not corrected, it may end up actually BREAKING drive-components (twisting an axle or driveshaft, busting a CV-joint....etc)
Have taken it to a shop who was to check it out but did not and charged $60 for transmission fluid. Today at a different shop, the owner seemed to know about AWD, and was saying that the "transfer case" is not working properly. Says that there are lots of clutches in the transfer case and that they are not functioning properly as the lubricant in there is either low or the wrong kind. He also says that the shaft boot is split, but that is no big deal. Said that the transmission fluid is very old and dirty and needs to be replaces asap, but we paid for this about 2 months ago.
Please read and respond.
Anyone have an idea or an opinion on this?
That said, you say this only happens when turning right (as in the direction)? If that's the case, and the CV boot is split on that axle, I'd be more inclined to suspect the CV joint is failing than a differential issue. If your center differential is binding, you feel that. It is significant in its feel, and is difficult to mistake. With the CV joint, it makes noise and sometimes catches when turning that direction at first. As it gets worse, it can start making noise and catching at other times, and it eventually culminates in a broken joint.
As for the dirty fluid, how could someone (like me) make a reasonable determination from afar? Either the first shop didn't change the oil, or the second shop is mis-interpreting. Last summer, my local dealer told me that my transmission's fluid needed changing when I took the car in for other issues. Of course, what the dealer didn't know is that I had changed the fluid (mine is a manual transmission) less than a month prior. I don't think they actually checked it; they just looked at the mileage, and went fishing based on an assumption.
Good luck to you!
However, if *any* of your driveshaft boots are split, it is possible that the contained CV joint has lost its lubrication and may be causing the sensation you are complaining about.
A bad CV joint may make noise (or not) and may 'catch' on each revolution. If the torn boot is on OUTSIDE of a front driveshaft, then the 'catch' could easily be exaggerated when the steering-wheel is turned sharply in one direction.
Would like to see the January 2013 forum
article on remanufactured subaru cv joints
I'm not sure what you are referring to--perhaps this article?
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-cv-boots-and-axle-problems-explained/
In any event, when it comes to reman CV joints for Subaru, BUYER BEWARE.
Hard to say as the prices for used parts varies considerably. If you could find one in a Pick n' Pull, that would save you quite a bit but of course body panels will probably have to be repainted.
Radiator should be bought new--probably $85 to $150 bucks, power steering pump (new) about $150.
I'd guess you could gather up all the parts for around $750, not including painting of course.