Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

1…1718202223

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well not a bad theory but then why wouldn't the alarm be sounding as part of its desire to keep your lights on?

    I'm sure a car audio shop could disarm your alarm quite easily but I don't have the wiring schematic, so I'm in the dark on that, no pun intended.
  • gflockgflock Member Posts: 1
    Miata with manual transmission will not start, running lights and radio light flashes, tried jump start, still no go. Previous owner installed an after-market anti-theft device. Push start will get it running, lights continue to flash. Can anyone offer advice?? Let me know - thanks!! Greg
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    use your owners manual and the keyless remote. access the opions and choose.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check to make sure your battery voltage is good, looking for about 13volts. If your battery is low many weird things can happen. Assuming that is good, then I would suspect that anti-theft device.
  • bigwwebbigwweb Member Posts: 5
    I dont know what i did and i must have did something when i tried to change the dome light. Both interior lights are not working, my remote wont lock or unlock the doors and the trunk unless the car is on. The windows and door locks also wont operate unless the car is on. The trunk and hood icons are on when the doors open and off when the doors are closed. what did i do to make this happen and how can i fix this?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You blew a fuse. You changed the bulb with the door open, which means the light socket was 'hot' and you shorted it out, blowing a fuse.
  • joycecjoycec Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Ford Explorer Sport. The battery light comes on when I accelerate and then turns off when I slow down. The windshield wipers seem slow also.

    Could this be the alternator?

    Joyce
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Or a slipping alternator drive belt.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Or a battery going bad.

    Take it to an autoparts chain (pep boys, autozone, etc), they will do an alternator and battery load test, and can tell you whether your alternator is putting out the right voltage and amperage correctly, and whether your battery is holding it's charge and supporting the load. This is usually a free service they do.
  • bigwwebbigwweb Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, i changed the fuse but i'm still having all the other problems with the locks, windows, keyless remote. The lights still don't come on.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Was the fuse that you replaced blown?
  • bigwwebbigwweb Member Posts: 5
    yes it was blown, and i till have the other problems
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You are going to probably need to get a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, I don't have a set. If you have a body control module (computer which manages the lights, locks, alarms, windows, delayed power off, etc), it is probably blown.

    If you get a set of schematics, you'd be able to troubleshoot the circuitry. I looked at helminc.com who have an online subsription service for like 10bucks for 2 days access, but they don't have your make vehicle.

    If you can locate a set of schematics, I'll try to help diagnose your problem.
  • bigwwebbigwweb Member Posts: 5
    thank you i'll do that
  • cookie50cookie50 Member Posts: 1
    when I start the car the gauges and locks won't work until about half way down the block, then you hear the locks click, the gas gauge moves and you can se if you're in drive or third or neutral... what might be the problem
  • blazin1991blazin1991 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer with a 4.3L and 2WD. My temp gauge keeps jumping to 260F, but the actual temp is between 170 and 200 according to my digital laser temp tool, I've checked the temp at the thermostat housing, both upper and lower hoses, both temp sensors, the water pump and the coolant crossover passages on the front of the intake. I've replaced the temp sensor in the side of the cylinder head, replaced the radiator, the thermostat, the cluster circuit board, and the temp gauge itself, and the problem still exists, the only thing i can think of is the water pump impellers have sheared off and the coolant isn't circulating, but the coolant level drops slightly when reving the motor up. Any advice or suggestions on this matter would be great, I'm actually an ASE certified tech and my other ASE buddies can't figure this one out either
  • luckydoggluckydogg Member Posts: 6
    Driving to work last week my radio and all power windows quit. 15-20 minutes later they came back on. next day same thing. Third time they quit for good, windows in the down position of course. I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the back seat. Moved circuit breakers around. Fuse's were all good. I checked the ground wires and tightened them up good (under driver side door still) There was two in line fuse's under the back seat they were fine. Finally I got it in the GM dealership and they told me to bring it back in next week as there top electrical mechanic was on vacation, but they did have a guy work two hours on it and he could not find the problem. So it looks like I am driving to work every day with the windows down come rain or shine unless someone can help me out.
    I will be forever grate full
    Mike
    e mail address digger_dog67@yahoo.com
  • toollmantoollman Member Posts: 1
    i have 1995 buick centry.power windowers work in the back and on the master switches at driver seat but the front does not work please help i tried numerious things
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Pull a door panel off when the window does not work.

    Pull the connector off the power window motor.

    Put a voltmeter across the leads inside the connector you removed.

    Push the window button for 'up'. You should get 12 volts. Push the button for 'down'. You should get a 'reversed' 12 volts.

    If you get these voltages, the wiring is ok, and the motor is failed. If you don't get these voltages, you have a wiring or fuse problem somewhere.
  • luckydoggluckydogg Member Posts: 6
    If none of the windows work and the radio dosen't work do you think it stil could be a window motor as you mentioned????
    digger_dog67@yahoo.com
    If i connected the wire to a 12 volt battery could i get the windowa to go up????
    I don't mind them not working so much as them being stuck in the down position??
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If none of them work, could be a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker, or bad 'master' switch at the drivers door, or some who-knows-where wiring problem. Unless the radio is on the same circuit, I don't see where a dead radio and dead windows have any relationship...
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If none of them work, could be a blown fuse or bad circuit breaker, or bad 'master' switch at the drivers door, or some who-knows-where wiring problem. Unless the radio is on the same circuit, I don't see where a dead radio and dead windows have any relationship...

    Yes, if you pull each door panel, you should be able to jump power directly to the window motor. If the window tries to roll down, just reverse the leads and it should roll up.

    The 'up' and 'down' is accomplished by reversing the voltage thru the motor.
  • luckydoggluckydogg Member Posts: 6
    I jumped the windows to get them up. That is a relief. so I know the window motors are o.k. I checked every fuse at least 3 times. In a Park AVENUE there are four fuse boxes. Large one under the hood and a smaller one next to it That hold the large fuses. There is a set of fuses under the back seat, they all are fine. and there is a set of fuses under the dash on the passenger side and they are all fine.. lifted up the fuse boxes and checked to see if there are any loose wires going to the fuses and they are all fine. Still can't figure out why the windows and radio quit all at once. The rear windows don't work along with the master switch in the front.. as well as the radio. Dosen't seem like the radio has anything to do with the windows. Would a bad master window switch at the drivers door have any thing to do with the indivual window switches not working. I guess what I am trying to say is would a bad master window switch cause the indivual window switches to quit working.
  • luckydoggluckydogg Member Posts: 6
    HERE IS WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR
    I jumped the windows to get them up. That is a relief. so I know the window motors are o.k. I checked every fuse at least 3 times. In a Park AVENUE there are four fuse boxes. Large one under the hood and a smaller one next to it That hold the large fuses. There is a set of fuses under the back seat, they all are fine. and there is a set of fuses under the dash on the passenger side and they are all fine.. lifted up the fuse boxes and checked to see if there are any loose wires going to the fuses and they are all fine. Still can't figure out why the windows and radio quit all at once. The rear windows don't work along with the master switch in the front.. as well as the radio. Dosen't seem like the radio has anything to do with the windows. Would a bad master window switch at the drivers door have any thing to do with the indivual window switches not working. I guess what I am trying to say is would a bad master window switch cause the indivual window switches to quit working.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The rear windows go thru the master switch because there is a lock out switch for the rear windows on the master switch. I'm not sure if passenger window goes thru the master switch.
  • luckydoggluckydogg Member Posts: 6
    THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
    IT IS GOOD TO KNOW THAT THE MASTER DOES HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH ALL THE OTHER WINDOWS. i'LL LOOK OVER THE MASTER AND SEE WHAT i CAN DO. iT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS WORKED ON BEFORE, SO IT IS A GOOD STARTING POINT.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    Not sure how to phrase this question, but I'll do my best.

    I am looking to see how or if there is a way to program how my vehicle locks/unlocks the doors when it is placed in drive or park, how the lights flash when I hit the lock button on my fob remote and also how the horn sounds when the lock or unlock button is hit.

    My vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Astro Cargo Van with a keyless entry system. I have figured out how to program new remotes, but I also wonder if there is a way to manage the other settings. I know that on my Impala I just use the radio to set all these settings, but my Astro has the old style (90's style) AM FM head unit. I'm almost postive there is a way to personalize these settings, but I'm not sure how to do it beyond programng the key fobs to work with the vehicle. Anyone out there know how to do this? If you have a late 90's early early 00's GM vehicle with the old Delco head unit with Keyless entry (especially GM trucks), I am sure they are programed in the same way. The instructions I found for the fob remotes were actually for an '01 Silverado
  • sybsyb Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2004 Malibu Lt v6 with just over 118,000 miles...
    My left turn signal just started showing a fast flash indicating a burned out bulb, which I replaced...The bulb lights up but does not blink when I try the left hand turn signal...Tried reversing the right hand bulb with the left hand side...the right hand side continues to work while the left although is lit doe's not blink...
    Hopefully some-one can be of some assistance with what might be the issue and solution...thanks in advance...

    Simon
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Look for corrision inside the socket. Look for bad grounds on the left side. Look for a burned out bulb in the left rear. This is the simpler stuff.
  • syb1syb1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your help...problem solved...no problem with the bulb...issue was with the contact points...used some baking soda and old toothbrush to clean up the socket and contact points, and I am now happly blinking agian... :):)
  • dirtball3dirtball3 Member Posts: 2
    i just replace the battery in my daughters 2002 kia optima when i hooked up the battery the horn is blaring and the wipers are going. it has a key fob and we tried to use that to stop it but it didn't help. an it won't start either. I had the battery checked and it was bad that's why the replacement . Can anyone help me?
  • ashtrizzashtrizz Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXI and recently I had the battery light pop on. Took it to my mechanic and he said it was the alternator and replaced it. Got car back and the next day the light came back on. Took it back to the mechanic and he said the battery light fuse kept blowing. Put in some circuit breaker fuse that was supposed to reset it's self. The next day I was driving the light came back on again. I pulled over for about 25 min, let the kids play at a park then got back in it and it was off. Later that day I was driving had the air and radio on, then the light came back on but this time after it came on the car started to lose power and the ABS, Trac control and check engine lights all started to flicker on and off. The speedometer and gas gauges stopped working and so did the power windows. The gas light came on then the radio started turning on and off so I shut the radio and air off stopped for a stop sign and the car died. Tried to start it again but it would not start and kept making a clicking noise. Someone stopped to help and tried to put it in neutral to push it around the corner and it would not go into neutral. Then after about 5 mins it went into neutral and we pushed it out of the way and then he jumped it. The car finally started so I took off to drive it back to my mechanic and on the way there it all started happening all over again. Got just about there and it died again. Had it jumped again and pulled it in there. Still no word on what it could be. I was wondering if anyone else has had any problem like this or any knowledge as to what the problem could be. Any info would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Has the battery been load tested? and are the battery terminal connections clean with no corrosion? Auto parts chains will do this testing for free (autozone, pepboys, etc)
  • ashtrizzashtrizz Member Posts: 5
    About a month before the battery light problem my check engine light came on and I took it to Autozone and had the light checked and also had them test the battery. I had to end up putting spark plugs in it but they said that the battery tested good. I have never seen the battery because it is hidden under a fender and not visible. For jumping it there are posts right under the hood and they look clean.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I would eliminate a basic power problem, as the potential source of your problem, before digging into the guts of the electrical circuitry.

    You have a 9 year old vehicle, which since batteries typically last about 4-5 years would be at the end of it's useful life....assuming you have had one replacement at the 4 year mark. It leaves me slightly suspect, since your battery is hard to get to, whether you have a lot of corrosion built up on your battery terminals causing high resistance to your power buss. What I would suggest since it is the simplest to do, is to get in to your battery and check those terminals for both corrosion and tightness. You should also check the connections on your negative cables where it connects to the frame, and the positive cable where it connects to the starter and main fuse buss.

    Only after I checked all of that (the easiest to do), would I move on to this stuff. You're going to need either a competent shop who knows electrical problems and has access to your specific electrical schematics (like the dealership)...or if you are good yourself with electrical troubleshooting but a set of schematics. I would focus in the area of the main buss fuse back to the fuse box, the ignition switch relays. You may also have a computer prolem that has surfaced. This area is going to get expensive to diagnose, which is why my recommendation to focus first on the electrical basics.

    I don't know where you can get electrical schematics online. For my chrysler products I've typically bought the manuals from the address in the back of the owners manual...but they are pricey. Don't know if you can find them online, HELMINC doesn't carry chryslers.
  • ashtrizzashtrizz Member Posts: 5
    I have just heard back from the mechanic and he said the battery is fine and now he thinks that it could be something to do with the ignition switch relays also. He said that he test drove it yesterday and that it ended up dying on him right in front of the shop and he charged the battery and it will not even turn over at all. I feel a little more relived that you are talking about the same things he is cause for awhile I was uncertain about the whole situation. Now I am worried about how much this is gonna run into and if it is even worth it. Overall it is a great running car with just a little over 200,000 miles on it. It does not leak oil and still drives at max performance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think he's on a wild goose chase. Your battery ran down to nothing, so a starter relay isn't going to help. He's curing a symptom, not the disease, IMO. Of course, he's THERE and I'm not, so we'll see.... ;)
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    In my opinion, your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing. Probably does not have much electrical knowledge. I would get this car away from him and take it somewhere else.

    You might be better off taking it to a Chrysler dealer for repair.

    If your mechanic has truly gotten a good battery in this car, cleaned the battery cables and checked for them being eaten up with corrision, I think you have an electrical problem that he has no idea how to diagnois.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    The car finally started so I took off to drive it back to my mechanic and on the way there it all started happening all over again. Got just about there and it died again.
    That's because the alternator isn't charging. Jumping the battery let it charge up, then when you drove it, it used up that charge. That is a clear symptom of what happens when the charging system is not working. Any 1st year apprentice would pick that up.

    I have just heard back from the mechanic and he said the battery is fine and now he thinks that it could be something to do with the ignition switch relays also.
    He THINKS???
    There shouldn't be any thinking in this diagnosis. It is clear that the charging system isn't working. He should start with determining what the alternator is actually putting out at the alternator and then to the battery. If the alternator is putting out charge voltage (around 13.5V) at the alternator and it isn't getting that at the battery, then there is a wiring problem.

    I'm going to agree with Mr. Shiftright and bolivar. It is clear your "mechanic" doesn't have a full grasp of how the starting and charging system on your vehicle works, which is a shame, cause it is pretty basic.

    By the way, did your "mechanic" happen to hook up a scanner to your vehicle to see what the PCM (computer) was reading your charging system at? I didn't think so.

    The reason for that question is, your PCM regulates the alternator. No signal from the PCM, no charging.

    My best guess is either the fusible link at the battery is blown/broken, Fuse T in the Power Distribution center is blown or the Field wire to the alternator is broken.
    If all 3 of those are intact and have battery voltage to them, then the signal from the PCM is the problem.
  • thepopesonthepopeson Member Posts: 1
    I can not figure out why my truck is not charging.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Go have your alternator checked.

    Any auto parts chain will check both your alternator and battery under load, a free test. (autozone, pepboys, etc).
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    My 04 Accord was dead this morning (1 yr old battery) and I mean dead, no panel lights, starter click...nothing. So I jumped it and started off to work. I noticed that whenever I turned on the headlights the engine seemed to cut out for just an instant. The car actually bucked a little as well. Radio or a/c did not produce a similar effect. Where do I start looking for the problem?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take it to an autoparts chain, and have them do a free alternator and battery load test on the vehicle.

    - You could have a bad battery
    - You could have a bad alternator
    - You could have loose and/or corroded cable connections
    - You could have left something on (or something is defective which didn't turn itself off), which drained down your battery to nothing
    - Some combination of the above.

    The lights draw substantially more current than the other items. I suspect you have a VERY bad battery, or a couple diodes in your alternator are out and it's not able to produce enough current to charge up your battery or drive the lights.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your battery. Your alternator cannot fully charge a battery that quickly, so you are running on low voltage. This affects computer management.

    You should have the battery charged, otherwise you might overstress your alternator and then you'll have TWO problems.
  • satkins2252satkins2252 Member Posts: 2
    Hey first I want to let all you guys know I have worked in maintenance the past year. What I've learned in the past year is ALL I know about maintenance. It's general maintenance so I dont know all of the technical car terms. I appreciate any help you can give me also. I will try to be as descriptive as possible.

    I killed my battery by leaving my lights on overnight. When I attempted to jump my car from my girlfriend's car battery I accidently switched the cables and connected them in reverse. I successfully started the car (by connecting the cables correctly). When I removed the cables from the battery the car stalled immediately. I was told by several people to replace my alternator. I replaced my alternator. After replacing the alternator and jumping the car again the car does not stall after removing the cables but idles very low. The problem now is that when I press the break pedal to put it into gear the car stalls.

    I did not change anything except the negative battery terminal. I replaced it because it was rusted and broke off during the alternator changing process. The grounding block and negative cable are both connected to the new main terminal connection of the negative battery terminal. I made sure to connect the electrical wires securely to the new alternator also.

    I should also add that I took my battery to both Advanced Auto and Autozone to be tested. Advanced Auto's machine did not say bad but said "replace battery" indicating to me that the battery is bad. Autozone's said "good battery". I was ready to replace the battery until I saw that. I would prefer to save money if it is not the battery.

    Once again I appreciate any advice given.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Do you have a digital voltmeter you can put on the battery to understand how much voltage it is putting out? You can pick one up relatively cheaply at Radio Shack or even some auto parts chains, and you should have approx 13.5-14.0 volts.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If the engine is not running and the alternator is not charging the battery, a nicely charged battery will read 12.6 volts.

    With the motor running and alternator correctly charging the battery, you should see something like 13 to 15 volts.

    Back to your problem. If you incorrectly connected the jumper cables, you might have done all kind of things in addition to harming the alternator.

    You might have also melted a fusible link somewhere close to the battery. Or burned up who knows what computer - more than one if your car has more than one.
  • satkins2252satkins2252 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where this fuseable link might be located. It's a 98 Ford Escort. I've looked all around the battery. I was told it looks like a giant fuse with a clear cover.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    Thanks it was the battery, a dead cell they said even though only two years into an 84-month battery. I only seem to get about two+ years out of a battery in this Tx heat regardless of what battery I buy.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    That's standard for lead acid liquid batteries. It's the same in Arizona if not worse. The heat is really hard on them. You could go to a gel battery, they do better in the heat, but with the initial cost being 2 x 3 times a standard lead acid battery you don't really save any money. My solution is not to spend a lot of money on them, buy the 30 month batteries at Walmart or Costco. Spend a little money on a simple battery load tester and test it from time to time to monitor it's condition. You'll know about when it's ready to be replaced by the test results.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles