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The car will start well and immediately stop after 1/2 second. It will do this 2 or 3 times before staying alive. Giving it some gas will keep it going, but sometimes it will die after that again. Sometimes you turn the key and there is just a clicking noise. A dealer replaced a voltage regulator about a year ago and it solved the problem temporarily.
I cleaned off the battery terminals to see if that was the problem. Seem to be getting good contact. Battery voltage seems fine. Battery is about 3 years old.
Clutch is depressed all the way and held in (so in theory no interlock problems(?)).
Many thanks for any helpful hints!
Another "luxury" feature of the car is that the radio should play for 10 minutes after the car is stopped (until a door is opened). What I've had occur several times is that when the car is stopped, there is a 10 - 15 second delay before the radio will continue to play. This has happened sporadically.
I took the car to the dealer. Of course they found everything else wrong with it and convince me that those issues were the problem. the alternator has been replaced, the injection system has been cleaned and air/fuel sensors has been replaced. Well, $800.00 later I'm still fighting this gremlin.
Someone please help!
The worst part is that sometimes you can get them to go off, but they come back on later (and drain the battery). We took the car to the local Ford dealer, he found nothing (could only duplicate the problem once).
He DID say that Ford Rangers have had this problem, and the fix is a costly replacement of the complete headlamp assembly and switch.
Any advice?
When I have my foot on the brake and the right turn signal on, both front turn signals flash.
When I have my foot on the brake and the turn signals off, my right rear amber turn signal illuminates, but does not flash.
When I have my foot on the brake my left rear brake light doesn't illuminate. I changed the brake light bulbs, but it didn't help.
Any ideas?
also - I thought it might be the voltage limiter on the instrument cluster. I had an extra one lying around. When I popped it in, the fuel and heating gauge failed to work. So then I put in the original limiter and STILL no functioning in the fuel and heating gauge.. WHAT DID I DO? The voltage gauge still works, speedometer, and all panel lights still work. Just those two items don't move at all.
Thanks for any thoughts on this.
One day my ABS and check engine warning lights came on plus the speedometer
doesn't start until I hit about 35 MPH and you feel a little surge in power when the
speedo starts. Disconnecting battery took care of the check engine light for one day
plus it has come on and off by it's own a couple times
Help?
-Andrew L
Full details are located here (I only need help with the fuel solenoid part):
http://www.dodge-diesel.org/yabbse/index.php?board=13;action=display;threadid=2558
I have a 2000 Protege ES (automatic). I have had the car for almost 2 years now and it has been flawless...nothing but oil changes until now. I took a trip to Nashville, TN (from Raleigh, NC) and on the way back it was raining hard for about 2 hours straight. The rain let up and shortly after I had the cruise control, AC, rear defogger, radio, and headlights on. Occasionally my headlights got brighter for a few seconds and then back to normal. At the same time there was a slight surge (or hesitation?) in engine power. As I was almost back to Raleigh my battery light starting coming on, then going back off (and I felt the hesitation). I noticed this as I exited off of the highway onto the exit ramp. It was 3AM when I got in so I didn't do anything about it at the time. The next day I checked the belts and battery connections and everything looked fine. During the next week I made several short trips (non highway) and the problem did not re-occur.
Since I am moving to Nashville next week I took the car in to get this checked out before I make the 8+ hour drive. When I explained the symptoms over the phone to the service department they suspected the alternator. I brought the car in to the dealership today (wed) and the battery light came on as I was exiting the highway to go to the dealership (again with hesitation). This is the first time I had the car up to highway speed since my trip last week. They checked the car and said the alternator was fine. He also said he didn't have authorization to replace parts unless he could diagnois what the problem was (still under warranty). He said to pick up the car and if it happened again to bring it back in immediately. I told him this was not acceptable since I am moving and making the long drive to TN next week, and I want the problem solved. He agreed to have a mechanic take it on the road tomorrow to try and replicate the problem.
Does anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW, the car starts fine, so I don't think the battery is losing its charge (yet).
I posted this at Protege problems forum yesterday. To update, the dealer drove the car for 40+ miles at various speeds (including highway) and they couldn't replicate the problem. They drove with the A/C and other power using accessories on. I HAVE to drive this car 500+ miles to Nashville, TN next week, as I am moving there next week. I feel like I am being set up for disaster.
I have a 1996 Mazda Millenia and the trunk and gas door opener on the door doesn't work. It just suddenly stopped. The trunk does open with the remote but in order to fill the gas I have to open the trunk, get out the car, and pop the trunk manually. I have done this a couple of times but it is rather annoying especially when raining. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also where would I find a wiring diagram for the car.
Thanks
Let us know what you find out, and good luck with your move.
Jim
I have an electrical problem with my 95 NISSAN ALTIMA GXE 115,000 miles....the problem started when I wanted to replace my Alarm. I took the old one out (THE FACTORY ALARM)and was ready to put the new one in when all of a sudden the exterior front headlights and back brake lights, and interior dash,and gear lights all blink on and off for about 30 secons when the car is turned off and the doors are shut. But when I drive the car, the lights always blink...making an annoying click noise while driving...very Annoying. I am afraid that it will drain my battery and burn all my bulbs out. I also tried to take out some fuses...but unfortunatly didnt work. I wanted to cut the wire that was connected to the small red alarm bulb inside the car (By the way it also blinks so fast it annoys me too.)so i need all the advice and help i can get.
thank you all
Thanks
I wrote in capitol to get my point across. and i know for a fact that cutting wires wouldnt do the thing...another words your not funny! but thanks for your ungeniusness..by the way, i wanted Opatience to answer or someone who knows what they are talking about..no offense.
and by doing so my inner and outer lights started to flicker or blink, even when iam driving!
but thanks for your advice.
the "alarm module" is not the full system. the blinking tells everybody that the alarm has been tampered with, meaning another magic computer in the car also has a piece of the action.
this is a design feature that appears to be working correctly in your case.
add the cost of the alarm issues to the bills you are submitting to your insurance company, if this damage was covered.
Thank you very much for your help
Lower settings on HVAC blower don't work but at the highest setting, the blower works fine. However, at high blower setting, headlights cut off and only come back on when a lower blower setting is selected (and blower not on). Also, overnight the clock on the radio stops working. All fuses and wires fine, from what I can tell. Any ideas????
Now the problem: This car is in very very good shape 111k miles, but pulls like a tank. Drives great, but... now that i think i disturbed the ground, the headlights and other electricals wont work. I have no power locks, interior lights, headlights, lighter or horn. Once in a while the radio will come on, but it will not hold the stations in memory once the car is off. I do have power windows, cruise, fan, rear defroster, map light, brake lights etc.
A few scenarios:
The radio is on and working, and if I try to use the horn, the horn will not work, but the radio stays on.
The radio is on and working, and I try the door locks, they work, and the radio will stay on.
The radio is on and working, and I try the interior lights, headlights, or lighter, the radio goes out, and sometimes comes back on.
The radio is on, none of the above mentioned works.
The radio is on, but not working, and the volume is turned up. I press the horn and hold it, or try the headlights, or hold the door lock button, and I can hear static over the speakers.
Resolution? I looked over a haynes manual for this car, but the wiring diagrams are foreing to me, and I'm assuming that these all have a common ground, but I'm not sure how to resolve the issue.
PLEASE HELP, I hate to junk the car for this small problem.
Thankx!
Oh, I should mention also, that sometimes when the radio is on and working, I will hit a bump, and it will loose power, and them come right back on again. This is obviously a short, and not a fuse.
Thankx again
P.S. a "short" is a direct connection (short circuit) between battery positive and ground. Usually results in an electrical fire or blown fuse. Yours has an open circuit.
Sorry for the nievate, but what is a "fusible link"? And you are definitely correct. It is an open circuit, and not a short.
Thankx again for the help. I want to get this fixed myself, and put the least amount of $$ into it.
For the no-start, try cleaning the contacts of the resistor pellet in the ignition key.
Off the positive battery post is the large wire which I believe goes to the starter, and a smaller wire. This smaller wire has "fusible link" written on it. This wire has a split in the sheathing, and a buldge in the wire.
Am I to assume this is the culprit?
Thanks again everyone!
by BIG testlight, I'm thinking anything from a taillight bulb to a headlight bulb (not a halogen capsule, the burn/shatter risk without the outside lens is too great). that will insure drawing at least an amp from the battery.
no light, replace the fusible link. you have to match the gauge of wire, and the replacement has to be spliced with an eye to preventing corrosion for years. there are splice clips at parts shops like NAPA for the purpose coated with No-Ox-Id.
Please advise on what may be causing it, how to fix it, or at least how to temporarily "deactivate" the alarm system.
Sure I can take it into the shop, but I am asking for help BEFORE I take it in so I do not have to pay an excessive labor charge to pinpoint the problem.
I am sincerely grateful for your help, thanks!
way back when my sister was having issues, the mechanic picked up a two-by-two and used it to whack the starter case right hard a couple of times. the car started. diagnosis: rotor windings.
Since I know when one is coming up, I will get in the right lane, slow down, and flip on the hazard lights to make sure people get off my tail before I pull over. However, the hazard lights in my 1986 Pontiac Parisienne only flash when the brake pedal is NOT being applied. When I hit the brake, they just go on solid. They are actually supposed to be that way, according to the owner's manual.
I want them to flash whether the brakes are on or not, because I think the flashing lights are more likely to send the message to following drivers that I'm planning to pull over. Can I buy a new flasher unit that will change the hazard light behavior, or is this a quirk deep in the wiring that I shouldn't try to mess with?
-Andrew L
when the Gummint decided everybody had to make this happen, they decided you-all must not mess with the turn signal bulbs, having them flash while the 4-ways are flashing would turn other drivers to stone, or something. I am not sure if they are flashing the brake lights, in which case hitting the brakes puts 12 volts on the line whether or not you have a flasher trying to interrupt it, or if there is a lockout relay to affect turn signals as well. the wiring diagrams for my last 3 cars do NOT indicate a violation of Occam's razor in hacking with both signal systems, so I must assume the Feds mandated flashing the brake lights.
this is dumber than a load of politicians running for office.
this has kinda P'd me O for 30 years and more, and you are close to opening a wound here.....
I would suggest you get a lightbar to put on top and use that to indicate you are going for the booty lane, because the federal safety guys wouldn't know a warning lamp if it (characterization unrelated to customer actions deleted)
I figured it was some weird design issue. I know one hubcap guy in NYC who overcame this problem by installing two big red lights with an alternating flash relay inside the rear window of his Buick Century. I'm not quite determined enough to do something like that though. I was just hoping in vain that there was a quick fix :-) Fortunately I do have a big panoramic rearview mirror that I installed, so I can check and see what's going on back there before I brake and pull off. Thanks for the info though.
-Andrew L
I still think it was a lousy idea to not allow 4-ways AND brake lights. always will.