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Comments
Now that my car has ABS, I thought it wouldn't be a good
idea to force the brake fluid back into the ABS components.
If this really isn't an issue for ABS, then I'll continue to change
the pads without bleeding, and save the bleeding for a
separate job. Thanks,
I don't think one would have to bleed the brakes after this procedure, however the rear brakes could use some bleeding to expel remaining fluid within the line.
Water gets in through microscopic pores in your rubber brake lines.
So my vote is for cracking the bleeder valve on the caliper when you push that piston in. Replace the pads, then flush the remainder of the old fluid out in a thorough bleeding of the lines.
FWIW,
TB
http://www.batauto.com/articles/brkfld.html
Take a look at what happens to the boiling point of gylcol brake fluids with only 3% water absorption.
all abs to make a springing noise?
about 3,000 miles left on the pads. I started pricing out the pads, and it
looks like the ceramic pads are standard OEM and run about $90 for front
and $60 for back pads. Carquest offers lifetime replacement on their
ceramic pads front $108 and rear $83. Anybody have opinions on brake
pads?
I think that unless someone is willing to put up with fast wearing pads and lots of brake dust for better performance, The best all around performance is with OEM pads, rotors, and shims, etc.
The problem is that the pedal feels VERY soft and seems to have a lot of "play" in it. My wife claims that the reaction time for the breaks seems slow at best. No leaks or low fluid levels detected.
Any suggestions???? Does it seem that it needs new pads or could there be air in the lines?????
http://www.raybestos.com/
When I got around to pulling the rear drums, I found that the stainless steel cable for the brake adjuster had broken and the end connector was jammed at the edge of the brake shoe. Funny thing was that it never made any grinding or rubbing sounds. This is the only time I have ever replaced one of these cables.
I have been told every 2 years is about right, by some fairly savvy friends.
Questions:
1.) How much should this cost?
2.) Where should I have this done?
3.) Would it be more cost effective to have the fluid changed, when the brake pads need replacement?
BTW, the owners manual only suggests checking the brake fluid every 7,500.
Respectfully,
Larry
You might want to take a page from many higher performance car manuals, use the best quality brake fluid AND do a complete system flush/fluid replacement every two years. It might just save your life.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It's time to start expecting ABS problems
http://www.autotruck.net/library/brakes/breaks6.asp
The trouble is they're not opening the bleeder when they push the piston back, so all the sediment in the caliper is getting forced up into the ABS unit. Think about what happens to a guy who does brake jobs, but has no scan tool. The car came in with the warning light out, and now he's got a light he can't turn off. To fix this, you go back with a scan tool and cause the system to go into the self-utilization cycle and pump itself clean." A hotline authority with a quality brake parts outfit corroborates the importance of this, saying, "Never, ever push in a caliper piston without opening the bleeder."
and:
In the past, some brake authorities said that flushing and refilling the system with fresh fluid wasn't worth the effort because you can't get all the old stuff out unless you disassemble the calipers and cylinders. True, you won't be able to eliminate every drop of the contaminated liquid, but you can get most of it, and that will effectively reduce the amount of moisture in the circuits. Besides water, there's that nasty sediment, which is a combination of rust and the ashy residue of burned glycol.
anf for fleetwoodsimca:
Those neat new test strips you dip in the fluid are another alternative, and they cost less than a dollar a shot.
Thanks brucer2 for posting a link to corroborate what I've been advising all along.
we want to run this car 200k if we can...its got 56k on it now, so i am sure i will be doing brakes again in a couple years.
pads on abs system
The springy sound you are hearing is most likely the Delphi version of ABS. (I'm not sure, but I believe Delphi supplies the ABS for the Intrigue). Most ABS mfgs. use soleniod valves to regulate pressure. The remove pressure from a wheel by opening one valve, and replenish the wheel pressure when needed by open a valve to the master cylinder pressure. Delphi, on the other hand, uses a system that adjusted the volume between the ABS unit and the brake to control pressure. Think of it as a mini-master cylder moving forward to increase pressure and backward to reduce pressure. The springing sound you hear is the mechanics moving the piston. Most other ABS systems have more of a buzzing (motor running) and clicking (solenoid valves opening/closing) sound.
1. I'm hearing Raybestos QuietStop pads are the way to go. Do I need these front and rear, or front only (I'm only at 22K mi.), or is this something to check with a mechanic?
2. The rotors are a piece of junk, are warped, and must be replaced. Are Raybestos rotors good? Better or worse than Power Slot rotors? Stillen rotors are more expensive; are they worth it?
3. Do I just buy the parts and go to my usual mechanic, or get him to order them? Or would you recommend finding someone who mostly handles high-performance parts?
This will be a messy and time consuming job and probably require a helper to work the brake pedal while you work the bleed valve at each wheel.