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Online they were the same price as premium pads locally. So I installed them recently. The original pads went 50k miles. These have a slightly better grab to them. Not a real noticeble difference. I hope they don't eat the rotors.
for a recurring brake problem. In the mornings when backing out of garage the car makes a loud noise almost like a fog horn. I was told in
May that there was a service bulletin for this problem. I do not know what the repair was but it did take care of the problem for about six weeks.
I took it back in last week and was told the problem was a result of armorall getting
on the discs. Would this cause a problem? I am
an infrequent user of the armorall.
Thanks,
Edward
I just had my front and rear brakes redone, Pads(Raybestos Quiet Stop) and Rotors. Today after I parked my car I noticed that on the front left rotor that rings had formed. All the rest are OK though. Is this a problem? And what should be done to repair it. I want to know what I am talking about before I take it back in. Thanks for your help so far. I must admit this board is great.
Earlier today our 2000 Focus SE Sedan with 21000 miles required a complete brake overhaul: new rotors and pads. My wife is not a heavy handed driver. She drives with two children (5,3). In our car ownership experience we have NEVER repaired the brakes before the warranty period expired. Heck, my 2000 Subaru Outback has 40000 on the original brakes and I'm a more agressive driver then the wife.
The sad part of this is the Ford dealer service rep said the brake replacement is chronic with Focus. The brake repair, coupled with the various TSR's that have come out since 2000, has convinced us to stay away from Ford products.
Thanks
I recently purchased a 1999 Toyota Camry LE. Since day #1, I've noticed some pretty load Break Squeaks when backing up only.
Any thoughts why it is only when backing up. And, more importantly, what is wrong and how I might correct it ?
Thanks !
Steve
I had a similar situation and traced the problem to slightly loose lugnuts. It seems like reapplying the brakes can pull the rotors into alignment and the vibration goes. The rotors will creep out of alignment again and when brakes are used once more the vibration will be back.
The answer to the problem of course is to torque the lug nuts up correctly.
Can anyone recommend a good torque wrench, so that I can check the wheels myself? Where do you get this sort of thing?
Thanks!
Thanks again.
Oh, yeah-- Breakers are expensive compared to benders.
I've seen this problem on my 97 Honda Prelude recently. After sitting for a few hours (usually overnight), the brake pedal is really hard to depress. Once I turn the engine on, the pedal has some play, and after about 20-30 seconds, it seems to depress okay. If I stop the engine and retry at this point, the pedal still works fine. During normal driving, there seems to be no problem at all with the car/braking.
Another side effect seems to be that as the car is warming up, application/release of the brake pedal causes the rpm to fluctuate suddenly (~2-300rpm).
I spoke to a local mechanic, and he says this is normal behavior. But I am quite sure that I could depress the brakes even when the car was cold, before I started noticing this.
Any advice?
1- Start engine and run at idle for 30 seconds. Shut off engine, wait 30 seconds, and depress brake pedal. Should be enough reserve vacuum for 2-3 applications. If it fails this test the vacuum check valve is defective.
2- With engine off, pump brake pedal until hard (vacuum reserve depleted). Hold pedal down firmly and start engine. Pedal should drop slightly when engine starts. Verifies booster operation.
Each brake application admits air into the engine's intake system, temporarily leaning out the fuel mixture. A fluctuation in idle speed is normal.
I just bought the "bend" type.
I have a 98 Explorer 4wd that is having some issues with the ABS system. When I am braking at lower speeds (less than 20mph), every time I hit a bump in the pavement, the ABS will activate for a second or two. This can happen for about 6-10 times before the ABS light goes on and the problem goes away (I assume its because the ABS stopped working). The next time I restart the vehicle, the ABS light is off and the process happens all over again.
Any ideas on what could be causing the problem?
Thanks
-Rob
Answer: Yes/No, In repeated stops from 90 mph, stopping distances (in feet) were:
stock hi-perf
1st 317 305
2nd 335 300
3rd 345 312
4th 363 345
So by the 4th stop the brake fade on the hi-perf pads were catching up to the stock pads. Judgement says by the 5th or 6th stop they would be essentially the same.
But since the 1st 3 data points are more representative of driving on public roads by 'normal' drivers, there might be a benefit. Although the only perceived difference when I put hi-perf pads on was that the pads were a little grabbier.
as it is, it only matters in the turn to stock car drivers, Montanans, and those who are subject in this legal jurisdiction to "board-o-nails" and patrol-car-sacrifice stops to protect the public good on the public roads, along with license forfeiture when caught.
remember out there, 186,000 miles per second is not just a good idea, it's the law!
The hi-perf pads was only part of the article but the most relevant. The real meat of the article was the after market rotors/calibers/pads sets sold by Brembo, Prodrive and Stoptech. Bottom line: these sets give you consistent stopping performance from the 1st stop to the 25th and beyond. The sets tested cost from $1700 to $3000.
Other conclusions: Performance was independent of price (actual best performing was the $1700 set). The crossed drill rotors did not show an advantage over the slotted rotors.
Any ideas. Thanks in Advance...
if you are staying on the ground with any wheels and bang!-- just like that, the wheels are all rolling free again with your foot on the pedal, that's darned serious. that's a failure in the hydraulics, and I would bet you are losing a lot of fluid and won't have any brakes soon. my gut feeling is a cracked pipe or hose, or when your suspension compresses you are pinching off a hose in front, and you need to have the system inspected now.
I would go so far as to advise I would have my car TOWED to a mechanic if this was happening to me, I would not drive it.
I hope this helps more. I am assuming this is what you mean. I didn't think it was that big a problem but since it only happend on this obviously bad road. But I definitely wanted to get it checked out since my g/f drives it and I know she won't probably be as calm as me.. But I didn't want to take it somewhere and let them begin ther fishing (for my money). so I wanted to go armed and i usually get great advice here
I had my brakes recently done (2 months ago). thanks for all the help so far.
a seasick pavement like that is better in gravel if they have gone over it and over it and not fixed it.
sounds to me like a bunch of loaded trucks use it, too, and this one is an example of where you DON'T use blacktop, but concrete, because the trucks braking will push the blacktop and the roadbed beneath it and keep making waves.
also make sure the axle seals are tight, I have had axle seals on the right rear give out twice on one car due to heavy sanding of the roadways in winter and resultant dirt splashing up there all year from puddles.
then take the shoes off and clean them aggressively in a running stream of solvent. dry thoroughly, lube at the right points, and reinstall and adjust.
if the wheels are still grabbing, replace the shoes, they're done.
History. 1989 buick Century, 3.3 liter. This is my extra car, and sometimes it sits a while. I'll be using it for my winter car this year, and I'm trying to work out all the bugs.
Here's the problem. After this car goes undriven for 2-3 or more days, I have a problem with the right rear brake locking up. I'll drive the car, and when I first start out, the right rear brake will lock up almost immediatly when I use the brakes. It has no problems releasing, just when applying pressure. After a few stops, it gets less, and less, and then I finally have no problems. If I drive this car daily, I have no problems at all, but if it sits 2-3 days, it starts all over again. I also noticed, that if I drive the car in reverse for about 100 yards, gently applying the brake, this resolves the problem.
Now, what could it be? I believe the brakes, and hardware are pretty new (less than 5k miles). Could something be in the line? I was thinking that the short rubber brake hose could be collapsing inside, but then it wouldnt release quickly right?
Thanks in advance for your help.