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Comments
I'll pull the wheel tonight and check the pad width.
As far as brake feel goes - both Sienna's we have (Yes, two) started breaking firm and then went softer - now I'm beginning to think it's either a wear attribute of the OEM pad OR perhaps brake dust as Sienna's seem to accumulate a lot of dust.
Yes, I do like firmer even though I'm not a leadfoot and will consider the Raybestos product as they're made locally.
Have you heard at all of the Hawk brand brake pads sold on Tirerack.com?
I've heard of Hawk pads, but only vaguely. There are so many different pads out there and my Honda Civic goes through a set of pads approximately every 100,000 miles just like my Integra before it. So, I don't have first-hand experience with a lot of high-performance brands. Axxis Metalmasters, which used to be Repco Metalmasters was a line of brakes the company I worked for used to sell and I can easily vouch for their quality and performance.
Oh, and jlflemmons, you're right about dropping fluid often being a sign of wear. My fathers 2000 Mercury GrandMarquis is losing fluid and the front pads dust terribly. I pulled one of the front wheels at 20,000 miles and his brakes are more than 1/2 gone. 30,000 miles per set are typical of these cars ... at least that is the case with the way Dad drives. >;^)
--- Bror Jace
I just wanted that to be clear.
--- Bror Jace
Rotor/Drum turning: If you do not have any pulsation in the pedal or steering wheel when stopping, and there is no scarring on the braking surface, there is no real need to turn. When turning due to pulsation, only a very small amount of material should be removed. It takes very little warp to create a major amount of pulse.
Jim
We just switched the tires around on Dad's big Merc. Marquis and the rear disc brakes looked really good. They'll easily go 30,000+ miles and the fronts were even newer looking. (He's at around 20,000 miles right now). His 1994 car of the same make and model used to go through brake pads (especially the rears) at 20-25,000 miles, depending.
I agree on the light-as-possible resurfacing ... or going without if the rotor looks really clean. The only probably you might get on a smooth rotor is bits of the corrosion on the edge of the rotor (which come off when the rotor is turned) might work their way into places and cause mildly annoying noise. gently remove as much of this by hand if you decide your rotors don't need resurfacing.
--- Bror Jace
Thanks for the tip on the Axxis product.
Rear discs on a car should last well beyond the fronts as their primary purpose is to keep the car in a straight line when stopping. The braking loads of a vehicle shift heavy to the front, hence the front calipers, rotors, and pads are larger. On the new GM trucks, a dynamic proportioning valve varies the percentage of braking force between the fronts and rears depending on the load in the truck and multiple other feedback from sensors. I have owned several GM trucks over the years and this 2000 model 3/4 ton has far and away the best brakes I have ever seen on a truck.
My dealer has re-surfaced the drums and then replaced the drums but the squeak keep coming back. On my last visit, my dealer told me they have inspected the brakes and there is nothing wrong and I just have to get used to it.
Does anybody have any ideas?? It is very annoying.
Could brake dust be a factor? I noticed that every time the dealer did something, the squeak would go away for a couple weeks. My guess is that every time the drums are removed, some of the dust would fall off.
Does anybody know what this thing is, and why it's so expensive?
Checked again with the master mechanic and decided it was the master cylander. I got a new one this time since it was the 3rd one in 4 years. Want this one to last a little longer. Half the price and seems to work OK.
the entire brake regulator system hanging on or near the master cylinder is basically also a series of regulating and proportioning valves that do different things with the fluid stream depending on pedal pressure and response from the downstream brake system, so that is rather complicated and somewhat pricey as well, but I would have trouble believing over $400 worth
Do not allow dust boots to twist when retracting pistons. Align cutout in pistons with notches in pads. Also, if equipped with ABS, open bleeder screws before forcing calipers back to avoid pushing contaminated fluid back up the system and into the ABS pressure modulator.
Today, I usually go at least 75,000 before need a set of pads.
Check the vacuum unit on that brake system, and especially check the hose attachments for leaks. New hose can often times improve matters.
I've replaced a number of vacuum hoses that go to the engines last summer so one on the brakes wouldn't be a surprize.
On my way home today when I push the brake pedal and it travels a little further than normal. I pumped the brake a few more times and the brake light turned on on the dash. I knew I lost fluid so when I got home I checked the master cylinder and sure enough one half was empty. I filled and pumped brakes again so I could find the leak - brake fluid dripping out of right rear drum. I replaced the wheel cylinder that was bad and now heres where it gets tricky.
After I installed the new wheel cylinder and put the brakes back together, I tried to pressure bleed the rear wheels. The new wheel cylinder wasn't a problem. About four trips of the brake pedal and all the air was gone. I loosed the bleed screw on the old wheel cylinder and barely any fluid came out. I tried pressure bleeding this side a few times and nothing. Finally I took the bleed screw out and then I finally got a little fluid to come out but not much.
I tried the pedal and it is stiffer than it was but still not right. The brake light is still on on the dash. I know my front brakes are okay so I'm not too worried but I still have some air trapped in the rear lines. Any ideas on things to try to get it out? I suspect something may be clogged on my left rear wheel cylinder so I may replace that tomorrow but I'd like to avoid it if possible.
break pads (disc), if you have ABS. I have heard you should let
the brake fluid bleed out, rather than force it back.
Is this really an issue?
http://www.batauto.com/articles/brkfld.html
ABS, you should also disconnect the battery, since there
is pressure in the ABS accumulator.
Also, if someone is pumping the brakes for bleeding, do
you have to have the master cylinder cover on, I'm assuming
you need it on, to preserve pressure in the system.
The master cylinder cap covers the reservoir only. It has nothing to do with developing pressure in the master cylinder bore. A good idea to keep in on while bleeding the system however, as brake fluid is one of the best paint removers around.
I don't mean to be nit picky, but!
You need the top off the reservoir for replenishing the level as you diminish it as a result of the bleeding. I guess you could take it off, put it on, take it off, put it on, ... until the job is completed.
You just described the procedure used by anyone who produces quality work. If there's air in the system, it's compressed when the pedal's depressed. Upon release of the pedal the air expands and can force a geyser of fluid out of the reservoir and all over the booster, firewall, and painted surfaces. At the very least there's a mess to clean up in the engine compartment.
bleeder valve into jar, force the piston back in, watch break fluid bleed out,
replace pads and then bleed that side?
I have changed pads in the past, never bled the system, and never had ABS before.
Thanks for all the info.
1. Jack up vehicle, take off tire and such.
2. Pop the hood and take the cap off the master cylinder reservoir.
3. Remove the caliper being careful not to let it hang my the brake hose.
4. Get a large C-clamp and push the piston back into the caliper. Keep the old brake pad on the caliper so the load from the clamp is distributed.
5. After the pistons are pushed back into the caliper for each wheel, put the cover back on the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Finish installing the new pads and reattach.
You should not have to do any bleeding at all if you are just replacing pads.