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Comments
I would consider junk yard part except for two problems - most of the junkyards hereabouts dont see any echos; how long is the used part gonna be good for? This problem has been evident for some time now, only lately has the rumble gotten louder.
Anyway, the issues in rebuilding are three that I forsee - can one get inside, are the balls/cones and inner races standar4d parts, and are the outer races sufficiently hardened to have survived operating with degraded bearings.
You do not need to disturb the rear brakes to get the hub off. Remove the wheel. Remove the drum. Remove the four bolts holding the hub. Bolt the new hub in place. Simple. Only complication arises if you have ABS. But you say you dont. Good luck! Tell us what happens!
Had my mechanic find the code. It came up speed sensor. He erased it. What is a speed sensor? Should I replce it? Will this happen again without replacement?
Also, I have been towing a boat( 500 pounds max combined weight boat, motor, trailer) should I replace trans fluid, filter?
Thanks in advance,
Rick
thanks
rick
Yes the light may come on again. If you give me the code number Ill look it up. CELS can mean something nad will happen or nothing will happen. But you need to check it out.
Paid the lube place 20 bucks each time for labor and I feel it was worth it.
Just 2 weeks ago I sold my 2001 Echo with 169K miles and the Toyota dealership was very impressed with the transmission (and the rest of the car). It still shifted like new.
The dealership manager purchased the car for his daughter (for University).
Thanks
Here is a passage from the owners manual:
Using automatic trnasmission fluid other that Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV may cause deterioation in shift quality, locking up of your transmission accompanied by vibration, and ultimately dammage the transmission of you vehicle.
Probably BS but who knows?
My 2001 Echo 4-door had an overheating episode.
It was in a wreck in 2002, also a minor one
earlier this year. I have a feeling that the body
shop(s) neglected to reinstall the auxiliary
cooling fan, or perhaps for some unknown reason
the car never had one. I just drove from
Tennessee to Iowa with no problems, but on a
short trip up here she shut down. (It was low on
coolant also). Perhaps I am lucky to still have a
car, but what I want to know is shouldn't I have
one of these fans? Doesn't every Asian car made
since the Carter administration have one?
I am also interested to know if anyone has
installed a coolant temperature gauge and what
kind of a gig it was. It is scary not knowing
when you are about to boil over.
Thanks,
Younggeezer
I know that the AT holds more than 3 qts of ATF but that is the exact number of quarts you need when just using the drain plug.
I know all the BS Toyota says about using anything other than Type T-IV fluid.
In my case, I have been using Amsoil for the last 5 years (yearly drain and fills) and the transmission shifts the same as when it was new. The fluid I was using is quite a bit superior to what Toyota claims is unique and irreplaceable.
Your warning lights will work just as well and tell you of trouble. If you just had a gauge you would have to look at it all the time. If you dont...blown engine! Youre ECHO is modern and computerized and is always looking out for itself. I dont think it needs a gauge. Thee is a gizmo which plugs into the computer which will tell you everything about your car. I forgt its name maybe somebody knows.
Thank you for the reply, sorry I have been busy at work and unable to rereply before today.
Not sure what you are thinking about, but the part in question is the assembly including the rear wheel bearing- moving parts which are guaranteed to wear out at some point. In older cars I have owned, using un-sealed bearings, one re-greases them around 50-60k miles and replacement of the bearings innards at the same time is considered wise.
At my milage, this part is no longer covered by warantee. Hand-rotation suggests wear, and that implies replacement lest a bearing disintegrate and lock up a wheel at highway speed.
I inspected my rear brakes last month and observed the assembly, but didnt attempt to remove it. I got the impression that the brakes are mounted, but could have been wrong. Pity there is no printed shop manual for this car (I am aware of the CD manual, havent located a vendor for it).
I have the printed shop manual. It does show that the rear bakes need not be disturbed to remove the assembly.
As for the scanguage, I'd rather pay $169.95 to my very honest mechanic back home who would then fix it once and for all; however I am away from home for 3 more weeks and I hope to get home in this car, so I am needing to research and be armed with as much information as possible when I go to some strange mechanic up here.
Last night I went out driving and after 10 minutes straight the temp. light came on and the car balked. If, as kneisl1 says, the fan only comes on when the car is not moving, doesn't this sound like a stuck thermostat? (the car has almost 100k on it and it's a stick shift). Or is there possibly some electrical gremlin at work?
Thanks for your help,
younggeezer
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
If you can determine that it is an idler pulley that is making noise, you'll have to replace it because the bearing is shot.
so the only "adjustment" would be a belt adjustment.
It's just a relay, doing its job (brake has to be pressed to shift out of park).. Now, everyone is going to be hearing it
We recently acquired a 2001 ECHO my daughter in law had gotten into an accident with. My husband has done all the work of fixing it himself. We thought it was ready to go, but a minor complication has arisen and we have found it all but impossible to get any information on. The battery will die overnight because it is trying to activate the transmission solenoids even though the ignition and everything else is off.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thanx, blu_zephyr
Sounds like an odd problem, but wiring issues can be a $#@!.
Where was the car hit? (might provide a clue as to what to look for)
When repairing, did your husband have to do any electrical wiring work?
My husband took out the solenoids one at a time and tested them. They all seemed to work. I think we have determined it might be the relays. I had pointed them out early on but he had dismissed it because I am not a mechanic. I had only guessed it might be the relays because the plastic housing box they were in was a little tweaked from the crash. Then an mechanic suggested he check them and when he did the buzzing and clicking noises ceased.
The car had been hit in the front. No, he did not have to do any rewiring mostly it was cosmetic stuff.
Thank you again, I am looking forward to driving the Blu Zephyr (my nickname for it, it means gentle breeze.)
The trunk looks big enough to hold all my camping gear especially if I drop the back seats down.
We have had a recent outbreak of engine lights!
We are looking for a diagram that shows where the timing belt is, i have found great pictures but have not seen one with labels!
We are trying to win a bet with a friend!
Any help would be great!
Please post here or you can email me, kat, at dmbjunkie4life@yahoo.com or my hubby at goingdowntheriver@yahoo.com
THANKS!
Kat
thanks for all the advice!
and congratulations on all you echos!
Thankyou for your help