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Is there a valve adjustment that Echo's need at a certain mileage? Could this be a valve adjustment issue? Any input you have is greatly apprciated.
Thanks in advance to all!
So act now (if indeed the compressor is the culprit and not an idler pulley) or be prepared to fork over a thousand or more later.
They filled the oil back up and cleaned my engine, but the noise is still there. It is not constant, but is bothering me a lot.
Any ideas?
The noise is worse when the engine is idle. Like I said, it is like when a car is low n power steering fluid. When idle it will go away, but if I barely tap on the gas it starts.
Two thoughts ..... could the wrong oil cap cause this? Sounds strange to me, but I thought I read it somewhere. Could the oil have contaminated something.
Just for the records before you go to a FORD quick lube .... or atleast the one in my town. "we aren't used to these kinds of cars" (from the service manager) ....BTW they sell Hyundai.
I have to say that given the size of the thing I hit and the small size of the Echo, I was gratified to find very little in the way of loss of control. The Echo just kind of rode up over the top of it and kept on going. There was an eardrum-popping CRUNCH when it went over the muffler, and something sprayed up in the air behind me, which I guess now was probably oil. :-(
I hope it doesn't cost too much to repair and hasn't caused any permanent damage. They should let me know later today.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The oil pan took such a bad whack that parts that sit inside the pan (something called an oil strainer? Also others which I forget) were also damaged. The car will survive, they say, but I won't have it back until the middle of next week at the earliest. They will have it apart on Monday and then they will know if there was additional damage not evident at first inspection.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have instructed the shop to inspect everything, stem to stern. It looks so far like the damage is limited to the engine.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I cant make heads or tails out of how to remove the inner door handle. However its probably a linkage broke somewhere you should be able to fix wout removing it.
I have to believe Toyota would have the parts. However, when Ive had door window issues in the past i find an automotive glass company knows how to fix things like this for a lot less. Good Luck!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am so glad to have it back! I really missed that little car. My Matrix uses about 20% more gas than the Echo does, and the more frequent fill-ups were noticeable and annoying. I drove the Echo all over the place last night, and it seems there were no ill effects from sitting in the rain not being driven all that time. No dash lights, no leaks, funny smells, or funny sounds are in evidence, so I'm glad. I think it's cured. :-)
I hope that is its only injury for the next 100K miles...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I had him do the job.
1. It seems to me that these parts went too fast - the car is not driven over bad roads and it is never driven aggresively - is this condition usual after only 55,000?
2. He charged me for 4 hours of labor - $340.00. Is 4 hours in the ballpark here? Seems like a lot of time to me (but who am I to say).
Anyway, any feedback here would be appreciated. Thanks - Rich
No, it is not usual to replace them at such a low mileage, and I would SERIOUSLY QUESTION what caused him to conclude they needed replacement.
Just the age/mileage of the car? Or did he actually witness all four leaking? Did he see tire wear that would indicate the need for replacement? What was his clue?
Otherwise, I would have gotten a second opinion. A lot of places boost their bottom line by recommending replacement of items like these that generate a good income for the shop while being an unnecessary expenditure for the customer.
FWIW, my Echo is on its original shocks and struts at 93K miles, without any of the symptoms I mentioned. Mine is an '02. YMMV.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Firestone tried to sell me on tire rotate and allignment plans. I said "my last set of $200 tires lasted 70,000 miles with no rotation or allignment, and I get over EPA estimated gas mileage. Why do I need to pay $150 bucks for this plan?"
You know you have a good mechanic when they tell you one of the following: (1) "your brakes squeak but they are fine. Bring them back in 20,000 miles and we'll check again." (2) "There are a bunch of things wrong with your car, but they're not safety related, and your car isn't worth investing the cost of the repairs in. Drive it until it stops and junk it." I have been told this twice by mechanics (in two different states) and was fiercely loyal to them while I lived near them. I can't imagine how much they saved me.
Anyway, it smashed a hole in the gravel shield and ripped off the connectors for the inner fender lining, which was causing the tire to rub against it on right-hand turns. So my little Echo made a second unscheduled collision-related visit in a month to the dealer yesterday, and for $81.20 they reattached the fender lining. Gosh, am I ever getting tired of hitting stuff that has come off peoples' cars! At least this one was cheap to get fixed.
The little car is not far off 100K miles now, I should be there by spring.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
It's hard to tell when shocks are getting worn on the ride you drive every day, because the changes are so gradual you don't notice them. But I am thinking of changing at least the fronts out on my car, which is now at 96K. It feels a little loose going over bad pavement where there is a sudden drop - the front end seems to struggle to regain its composure more than it should.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Assuming you aren't out four-wheeling all the time though it's perfectly normal for struts to last over 100k.
I do remember that tire cupping or feathering can be signs of worn shocks, and I don't have cupping but I do have a little feathering. Nothing serious yet.
I was merely trying to get a sense of when others had replaced theirs. I know that in general OEM shocks should last out to 100K or more, but that the durability of shocks can vary a lot by the price of the car, and of course the Echo was the cheapest car Toyota was selling in its day.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I'm not going to run out and do anything just yet. When tire replacement time gets nearer, I will take a longer harder look at their condition than I did this weekend. Once they are very worn, the tires' remaining tread can tell you a lot about the car's alignment and suspension condition.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
thanks
Take it up to 45 or 50 mph, put it in 5th, and floor it. If the engine revs jump way up with no appreciable increase in speed, the clutch is slipping. If the engine just drones at a low rpm and speed begins to increase, it's fine. In the second case, you should discontinue patronage of that dealership as soon as possible.
My Echo has its original clutch at 100K miles, and gives no subtle messages that it might be thinking of dying any time soon...
PS if you discover that it really does have a slipping clutch, then you pull out that paperwork from the 35K service and you go after warranty coverage aggressively. For the throwout bearing to quit after only 35K kilometers, it would have to be pretty lousy and probably a defective part.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have an '03 Echo, my first car. Just curious about costs of periodic maintenance.
Today I did my 30,000 mile scheduled maintenance at the Toyota dealership. I assume that a dealer will be more expensive than other options...just curious if the following are reasonable:
1) Replaced Front Brake pads [Parts+Labor=$140]
2) Four-Wheel Alignment [Parts+Labor=$80]
3) Exterior Drive Belt Replacement [Parts+Labor=$56]
4] Lube Oil and Filter Service [Parts+Labor=$43]
5) Oil [Parts+Labor=$23]
6) Tires replaced (had dry rot?) and Installed (Bridgestone) [Parts+Labor=$369]
7) Fuel Induction Cleaning Service [Parts+Labor=$130]
Total Cost (including misc fees): $970.
Just curious is this is typical, Thanks :confuse: