Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

18911131419

Comments

  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    Hi there,
    Did you figure out what was wrong with your Echo? Mine is doing the same stalling business. Its completely random - maybe once a week, after the first stop I come to when the car is still cold it feels almost like it loses power for a few seconds, then it's usually fine for the rest of the day.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Go to AutoZone and have them read the error codes for free. That might put you on to something.
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    I had the codes run and they came up with an exhaust leak, which I had fixed. Apparently there is another one and my spark plugs need to be replaced as well. Do you think one of those things could be the issue?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Yes it could be. But youll find out if it stops!
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    Thing is, if it's really coming from the rear of the car, there aren't CV joints back there since it's front wheel drive.

    It might be something as simple as your tire rubbing on a piece of plastic (like the mudflap maybe?) inside the wheel well. It could be brought about by the suspension compressing in a turn one way versus the other until now something's come loose enough that it rubs even in a straight line. It would only be unloaded by turning to the left when the suspension rises enough to keep the tire from touching.

    As bad as it sounds, it's probably not apparently obvious, it doesn't hurt the tire much, it just sounds really loud. Kniesl's (sp?) advice is good though too. If you look and can't see anything touching, check out the CV joints in the front. Sound can travel in a car and you may hear it coming from one place even though it's happening somewhere else.
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    I sure do hope that solves it
  • I had a check engine light with my 2000 Echo. Took it to Autozone and the code was P0441. I just ordered the canister and vacuum valve from Parts.com for ~$245. and installed them myself. So far no more check engine light! Parts were not hard to install. Canister is under the car in the back behind the fuel tank below the trunk. Three bolts and 5 vacuum lines and one electrical connection to take off. Two of the lines have snap on fits and need to be pryed off carefully. The other there are push on fittings with hand clamps. Th vacuum valve is up front on the air filter top. Two vacuum lines and an electrical plug. Took me about 30 minutes to replace. Hope that helps.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Congradulations for fixing it and thankyou for posting! Check back in a few weeks if the light is still off. (or if its on, maybe someone can help) Its always good to share your experiences with others!
  • whitney9whitney9 Posts: 4
    Wow. I wish I'd been that lucky. After 2 exhaust leaks, new spark plugs, and a new MAS, my total bill came to about 750.00. However, my Toyota is a 2000 and that is the only $ I've spent on my car (other than regular maintenance of course)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    So I eventually tried the stuff from the Toyota dealer, Turbo Bright or something like that, and it worked pretty well with minimal effort or expense. The bottle cost $10, the headlight lenses are much clearer although not perfect, and all I had to do was wipe the stuff on with an old towel, then wipe it off.

    The difference in the amount of light at night is noticeable. Not bad for $10 and 15 minutes. :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ray53ray53 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 echo with 184k miles all origional I just replaced the origional battery, passed smog with flying colors all freeway milles. BUT a few day ago on the freeway it was like running out of gas then it stalled. I towed it home and sprayed some starting flued in and it tried to start. So since all a car needs is air, spark, and gas I figured gas. I replaced the gas pump in the tank and the filter. no go it still will not start, but if i use the starting fluid it tries,,,,help i have spark and air any ideas????
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Did you check the computer for error codes?
  • ray53ray53 Posts: 2
    no I have not the check eng light never came on
  • I have a similar problem to the same question. However the instrument panel lights in the car come on. I have replaced the starter and put in a new battery. Once I turn the key, the clock light dim and I do not hear the fuel pump kick over when I start the car. Any suggestions on what else I can test for?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Is this an automatic? Have you jiggled the shift lever? Maybe you have a bad neutral safety switch?
  • Hi All, hope someone can help?, Toyota dealers here in Ottawa not much help,
    I'm looking for a wiring diagram of a 2001 echo tailight wiring, the area were to tap in a trailer wiring harness, i know about the plug in one's, but my trailer has separate turn and brake ( like the car), need color code for wires at the tailight connector in the trunk behind the drivers side trunk liner panel.
    If anyone has this info? it would be greatly appreicated.
    Thanks Tyler ( 2001 echo 4d sedan )
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Turn the signal on (like the left one) and take the bulbs (the socket with the bulb in it untwists from the housing)out until you find the one that is blinking. Then you can see what wires go to it. I use a stick between the seat and the brake pedal when I want the brake lights on for something.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    When you rev the engine on our 2000 ECHO with auto trans and 117k miles there comes a squeek. It does it in Drive while moving and it does it in Park. I imagine this would be the belts. The PS belt is a little looser than the one on my 2001. But the belts were new at 100k miles. Is there anything else this squeek is likely to be? Thanks!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    It has to be an idler pulley, doesn't it? I have a pretty regular squeak now, but mine is only at idle, and just when it is cold out. If it ever became louder or more constant, I would have them go in there and find it, and put a new one in.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Hmmm no there isnt one on the ECHO. The water pump is driven by the flat of the belt sort of like a serpentine belt. Which I dislike no end. (poor grip compared to the ribbed side) I see "Ford" of one of the belts now so they arent Toyota belts ($80 for the belts themselves BTW at Toyota) Im getting a bad feeling its one of the driven accessories like WP, PSP, alternator, or ac.

    I just pray its not the tranny!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Heres a little something that makes you think. I have three Toyota dealers nerby and one of them wants $45 for the two belts on the engine and the other wants $85. The place selling them for $45 wants $139 total to change them.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I bet there's a timing chain tensioner though, isn't there? Could be that is screeching because it is nearing its end. If it is that, don't delay in fixing it. If it blows apart or freezes, consequences could be dire as you know.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Yes there is one. Its hydralic whereas accessory belt tensioners are spring activated. If the timing chain were not right somehow then the engine would run badly...which isnt the case. Still that would be a disaster to have the chain go! I called the service departments of two Toyota dealers in the area and they both suggested tightening the belts. It not easy but when I get around to it Ill tell you ifn that fixed it.
  • do a search for "2000 to 2002 echo factory service manual torrent" on google and download the *.rar file, It helps a lot
  • Greetings all... I was wondering if anybody out there might have an idea what is going on with my 2001 Echo. Recently I have noticed a subtle "bouncing" in my car at speeds from 10-25 mph. After 30MPH, it is not really noticable. I bought new tires 3 months ago and this problem didnt exist before the new tires. Is this possibly a balancing issue? Any suggestions would certainly be appreciated.

    Thanks all....
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Why three new tires? Whats on the 4th wheel? I would start by balancing that 4th tire/wheel. Then rebalance the new three. (or take it back and ask the people you bought the tires from to drive the car)
  • I just finished replacing my water pump but while re-installing the alternator, I heard a spark, my bad for not disconnecting the battery. Now the engine starts and runs fine but I can't get the car out of park and also no mileage showing on dashboard and check engine light is no longer on. Did I blow a fuse or is this more serious??? Any ideas?? If a fuse then which one is likely??
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    You need to check the fuses if necessary removing them one at a time. There a fuse box under the dash near the driver and also one under the hood. Check your owners manual. Hopefully some of the fuses are blown and replacing the blown ones will fix the problem. How difficult was changing the WP? How many miles when it went?
  • Never mind, I figured it out...turns out I blew a fusible link when I shorted the alterator. Attached to the positive terminal of the battery is a square box, iif you remove the cover you can see the fusible links. Mine has two and one was burnt through. I bent it back together so the halfs would touch and everything works fine now. Phew! Tomorrow I will go to the dealer and get me a new fusible link.
  • Changing the water pump wasn't too bad...I did curse a few times...there's not much room in there. Drain antifreeze, disconnect battery, remove belt, remove alternator then 3 bolts and two nuts and water pump is out. It is tight to get in in/out but it does go. Careful not to damage the gasket when putting new water pump in. What a difference...no more leaking and no more noise.
    My mileage is about 165,000.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I always wondered what that box was. Wow 165k miles. I put three pumps in my 240D every 60k miles like clockwork. The Japanese ones seem to go much farther than that. My 2001 ECHO only has 43k miles on it but it IS eight years old. Hopefully Ill never have to do it. My sons 2000 ECHO has 120k so I guess thatll go someday...
  • Hi, no I bought 4 new tires. They were brought back and rebalanced. The problem I'm having with the Echo is a "bounce" from 20-25 mph. I'm thinking it may be a strut/shock issue. Once the car hits 40, its smooth sailing. Any ideas/ suggestions? The car has 100,000 miles and is a 2001. Thanks for your input, its much appreciated.
  • Just to let people know that I experienced slow take off espacially when cold. After changing plug and air filter to no avail i tried a response i saw on this website which worked a treat. It involves cleaning the thin wire air flow sensor on the air intake box with a cotton bud preferrably with a spirit as it had carbon deposits. Note there seem to be 2 of them.

    Now it goes well again.
    Cheers
    Stan
  • I've got a 2000 Echo with about 153K miles on it. For the past three years, I've noticed a chirping noise when the AC/heat is engaged.

    Lately, especially starting up in cold weather, the chirping has been joined by a hideous squeal. The squeal is terrible during the first 30 seconds of use in the morning (it's bad when turning the steering wheel) and then abruptly stops.

    I've narrowed the chirping noise down to the AC clutch when it's engaged, but the squealing has me baffled. I've had the belts checked out twice in the last year and have been told they're OK.

    Would a faulty clutch cause the squealing? Is it as simple as tightening the serp belt?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    The fact that it makes the noise when you also turn the wheels indicates a loose/worn belt. When is the last time the belts were changed? The PS is on a different belt from the WP, AC, ALT. Could still be something like the AC clutch but you really need to eliminate the belts first. Who said the belts were good?
  • We had the same sqealing when we turned on the a/c. Couldn't find it so took it for a service and it came back fine. I think it wass some belt or adjustment on the a/c.
    Stan
  • There's probably 9,000 miles on the serp belt. I'm not sure about the PS belt. A mechanic and friend of the family said the belts looked good.

    I ran the car cold today -- after it sat for five hours in the 32-degree cold -- and drove it home without any heat and the fan off ... no squeal, not even on turns.

    I'm going to let it sit overnight and fire it up again in the cold of the morning without the heater. If there's no squeal, then I'm thinking it's that clutch.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    AC clutch wouldn't squeal. More like rapid chirping, chattering. And it wouldn't go away unless you shut the AC off.
  • marcumarcu Posts: 11
    Hello, i'm looking for a front bumper cover for my Toyota Echo 2003 4 doors sedan. I don't want the primed one (ready to paint) but the BLACK one (textured). Any good address and pricing where to buy AND shipping in Canada? :confuse: :confuse:
  • marcumarcu Posts: 11
    O.K. pals i've found the deal i was looking for! thanks for reading nevertheless ;)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I would not know where to get one!
  • I saw another member complain of always having to run the ac, and fan to clear fogging. My coolant and mats are dry, I was wondering if anyone has had this symptom and found a solution to it. it's an 03

    thx,
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    If you live in a humid climate, the car is bound to hold some moisture. The only real solution is to let it sit out in the warm sun for awhile I think. Likewise, if it's gray and rainy for long stretches at a time it will get some moisture inside.

    I used to have and 87 Celica and after about 12 years or so the windows started leaking in heavy rain. All I could do was hope for some sunny days and let the car sit with the windows open to dry out and even then when it got humid it never really did.

    I think part of the issue is modern cars seal up pretty tight, so if there's a weather or temperature change outside, they still have the old conditions inside. If it's warm and humid and a front comes through and cools down the temp outside, your car will stay warm and humid until you equalize.

    I've actually started parking my Echo in the garage with the windows cracked. This allows the car to stabilize a bit since our garage will change temp with the outside.
  • typentypen Posts: 7
    non-sealing cap has caused the check light to come on a few times, i just used a scotch brite pad with some WD40 to clean the filler cap neck, takes a while for the check engine light to go off, also i would suggest cleaning the o-ring on the cap. cheap fix but it works.
  • I have my left brake light bulb burned out, and I also figure that at 99K it's prolly about time to change my 2003 Echo's platinum spark plugs too...

    So are there any 2003 Echo maintanence manuals out there I can buy that will assist me in doing this work, and perhaps other types of minor maintanence work also?

    thanks,
    drummer :)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    My 2004 didnt come with platty plugs thats fer sure. The service manual is like $125 and that for the 01 later ones are more $$$. Just ask here if you have any questions.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Really? Are you sure? I know that my 2002 did. I get 60K between plug changes. Why would they go AWAY from platinum plugs after 2002? I'm genuinely puzzled. It increases the maintenance interval - surely they would go FROM regulars TO platinums, not the other way around? :confuse:

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Perhaps someone took them out of my car at some point and replaced them with regular plugs. Not likely though as the car only has 54k miles on it. The first ECHOs came with regular plugs Im pretty sure. Perhaps I should say I just bought the 2004 used. See what your owners manual gives for a service interval. If its 30k miles then they used regular plugs.
    Platinum plugs have a very serious drawback. If you leave them in for 100,000 miles (thats how long the wifes Camry service manaul says they are good for) when you go to take them out they can be corroded in there! You cant get them out without stripping the threads! Not so good after all are they? I take them out of the Camry every two years and clean the carbon off the threads and re instal them. So whats the advantage? Regular plugs you can get for 99 cents each. What are those platinum plugs $8 each? Thats $32 for 100k miles while regular plugs would cost about $12 over the same lenth of time. And if you want to get lazy and just leave them in there you might have a problem. BIG problem!
  • Can anyone tell me how to replace front bushings on a 2001 Echo? So far, I know how to get it off the suspension--on the frame--but need help from there!
    Thanks!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    What bushings are you dealing with? Sway bar? Shocks?
Sign In or Register to comment.