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Comments
I can barely go over 40+ miles when the blue light is still on and it makes me a bit concerned to go out to the busy road in the morning. However, everything is back to normal after the blue light is off. Would it make a difference if I park the car in the garage?
Neal
Neal
The blue light went off sooner this morning (25 degree outside) after I put the car in the garage last night. I guess I will keep it in the garage for my own convenience the next morning in the winter.
I just came across with this wonderful Discussion Forum a few days ago (i.e., a newbie here). I had an AC-related issue in the summer that I plan to fix in the spring. In the cool fall weather, I dialed the coldest setting but the air from the vent (AC off; NOT circulating) was at least 10 or 15 degree warmer than outside. It seems that the AC/heating control/temperature dial was not set properly on my Echo. Then, it dawned on me that this might be one more reason why the AC was not cold in the city (OK on highways) the past summer. (Btw, I bought this car in the spring.)
I would like to fix the temperature dial/setting and I downloaded a diagram from the Internet. The diagram shows the controlling valve (for hot coolant) is next to the engine but there are only two (in/out) hoses going inside the car on my Echo. I guess the valve is behind the instrument panel. How to reset the temperature dial correctly? Thanks.
Neal
As for the AC, I have to tell you that this is traditionally marginal on Echos and Scions.
I did an experiment (with the dial set to the coldest) this morning when the outside temperature was below freezing. At the beginning, the air coming out of the vent was as cold as outside. After the blue light went off (about 4-5 minutes), the air from the vent gradually became not as cold. It seems that the heating is always on in my Echo. If so, how can I turn it off in the spring/summer? Thanks.
Neal
unfortunately I don't have any instructions on how to do that but I'm sure you can research this.
I will check it out in a few months and I will keep you posted if there is anything worth mentioning.
Neal
Thanks for the tip.
I never turned the dial to the hottest setting on my Echo and I just tried it the first time this morning. Guess what? I could not turn the dial to the hottest setting. The dial stopped one notch short of the hottest setting but the dial could stay at the coldest setting. Is this inconsistent to you?
Neal
If not, I think a lift is your only real option, or a set of ramps at least. If it was easy to pop the hood, then it wouldn't be much of a security device.
when i press on the throttle, it has a slight delay before it revs up the engine (kind of similar to an automatic transmission) - it has a manual transmission. it gets worse when i try to rev it up more rather than less. and if i'm going up a hill, it hardly moves. it's ok once it takes off (but then the next gear has a similar delay).
Also, when i turn the ignition to start the car, i need to hold the ignition a bit longer for it to start. otherwise it won't.
I've just changed the spark plugs, and the air filter is pretty clean. the engine oil is good too.
I took it to a mechanic who hooked it up to a computer and still couldn't tell me what was wrong with it. he said we need to change the air filter and the spark plugs and see if it improves! Well, i just did that today and it hasn't.
I'd appreciate your input.
I suspect the throttle body needs cleaning. You could also clean the mass air flow sensor. Google echo cleaning MAS.
Did aa little reading.Definately clean the mass air flow sensor. Its easy. Google around for instructions. It on the black air filter housing held on by two phipis screws. Also there an electrical connector. Remove it and look on the bottom. There are two fine wires up inside. DONT TOUCH THEM. Are they dirty? Theres the trouble. Buy a can of brake cleaner at auto zone or equal. Spray the wires until shiny. Do not touch or they break!
Let us know what you find!
However, there's still a slight trouble with moving the car in first gear from a full stop. I still have to apply a lot of gas (nowhere near as much as before) but still will stall if I don't (stalled twice today and felt utterly embarrassed). Could it be because the echo is just like this? I have a Rav4 which doesn't have this problem at all - and it's 3 years older!
And no, there were no error codes when I took it to the mechanics -- definitely won't be taking it there anymore!!
But your advice definitely helped with it. It's much better. Thank you
Glad to help and if you find whats really wrong let us know!
Thanks!
Jill
Give it some more time for something to happen then post back here if it does.
Good Luck!
The next morning, it started running REALLY rough! Once I got it up to above 50 mph, it was okay. Well, I didn't make it to "the city"--ahout 100 miles away. I ran out of gas about 20 miles short of the destination. There should have been PLENTY of gas to get there in. When I finally got there, I filled up with gas. It didn't help. I even added the stuff that takes the water out of the gas (the name escapes me right now). No help. I took it to a local mechanic and several codes came up, I don't remember what they were. He mentioned doing a basic tune-up on it, which I was okay with. But he wasn't sure that would do it. He said to do a full tune up it would cost $400+ because this car didn't have spark plug wires by themselves, that you had to buy the entire spark plug boot. THIS I had a problem with. I drove the car home, and it hasn't left my driveway since. I don't know if it WAS the gas, or if it was coincidental. Any thoughts?? I am going to the Auto Zone and have them tell me the codes so I can write them down and do further research. ANY help would be appreciated!
Yes have the codes read and tell us what they are. Its possible you got a tank of gas with a lot of water in it I think.
But the codes will tell...
My 2000 automatic echo with just over 96k makes a chirping sound at low rpms. It happens whether warm or cold, mostly when dry but also sometimes when wet, and has progressively gotten worse over the last 2 weeks. The noise is much less obvious when driving and seems to disappear above 35mph, and is worst when you shift from P into drive and the engine idles down under the trans load.
I thought the noise was coming from the drive belt that runs the ac, water pump, and alternator. But I just replaced that belt (which was glazed and showing some wear) with a new one (a Dayco poly cog?) and really cranked on the alternator to get the belt tight - I was thinking the old one had been slipping. Now, I am sure the belt is tight, but the chirping noise is still coming from my engine bay in the belt region.
I know it could still be slipping or the bearings on one of the components could be going bad, or it could be the power steering belt or pump bearing. But my question is: has anyone else had this same issue? I feel like echos with a lot more miles than mine haven't ever had these belts changed or pulleys wear out... But maybe it's my imagination and someone else has experience in this area? Any chance this is normal?
Thanks for your 2 cents.
Tell us what happens!
I also did some more research and found the "water spritz test" - basically you get the belts damp by dripping water on them and if the noise still persists it is more likely misalignment or a bad bearing; if it goes away it is likely a belt slipping or wear issue. So I started by getting only the power steering belt wet, and voila... no more squeaking. The ps belt still has a green toyota label on it, maybe it is oe and after 96,000 miles and harsh WI winters its time is up. It does feel a bit glazed. Either way I am leaning toward that being the issue, since I am confident that my drive belt is tensioned too tight or close to too tight already so I doubt that's slipping.
I don't have the tools to access or change the power steering belt (evidently you need to remove the wheel?), so looks like it might be time to get the local shop involved. Alternatively I suppose I could just keep driving it until the belt fails completely - as long as I'm at less than 40mph the Echo shouldn't be that hard to control without power steering, right? I can't stand the noise though.
Thanks for the tip though - I learned a thing or two, and I got a new drive belt out of the deal.
flexbelt@flexbelt.net
A drunk totaled my 2001 Echo with 70,000 miles on it. She ran like a top and will be missed.
On the goods side the car was parked when hit so there were no injuries.
I am looking at a 2007 Yaris Hatchback - 25k miles for $9000 from a private party. I think the price is to high, but what do you think and I will post this on the Yaris board also.
Thanks and good luck all.
But that isn't what this question is about. When I was looking under the hood, I noticed that an electrical connector to a sensor directly above the alternator was broken off. The sensor is a brass colored cylindrical shape that protrudes about 2" from the engine block, is about 1" in diameter and is about 1" above the alternator. The wiring harness has a branch that plugs into the sensor at this point.
Unfortunately, the plastic connector that sticks out from this sensor has snapped off, leaving whatever this thing is unconnected. The engine still seems to run fine without it. BTW, the sensor plug has two prongs.
What is this thing (sensor?), and how do I replace it? Is this a major job? Any ideas???
Also that code can indicate loose vacuum lines. You should check that.
Tell us what happens!
The wheel bearing can make noise even if turning smoothly.
Tell us if you fix it and what it was!
Do you have any idea what my broken connector is, that plugs in over the alternator? That is the big question in my post. Thanks!
Okay, I have an '03 automatic, 2-door Echo at ~55K miles (yeah, low )
1) Doing city driving (involves some hills), I typically used to get 280 miles before the last fuel marker started blinking (i.e., ~ 28 mpg). Lately (the last 6-8 months), my mpg is lower (~25-26 mph). I was thinking that this might be attributable to Winter temps...but it isn't. One thing I did do was change tires (to Pirelli P4 Four Seasons). For the record, I do oil change every 6 months, which based on my low mileage, is probably overkill. Alternatively, I am due for the 60K maintenance soon, which may be a bit late, considering it's an '03. So any ideas about low mpg, or maintenance?
2) I get this NOISE that seems to be coming from under the (right side/middle) of my dash. It only happens when I am in reverse and not moving. It's a rattling, vibration-type noise, and it's getting louder over time.
3) My driver-side seatbelt tension is insufficient now to roll itself back up. A dealer suggested that it might be twisted inside...is there an easy way to check this?
Okay, thanks a million, people!
The oil change interval is 4 months so you are NOT overchanging it. Especially if you drive a lot of short distances.
I would guess your decreasing mileage is due to winter blend/alcohol in the gas. Im seeing decreasing mileage in my Yaris also. We are paying MORE for gas due to alcohol and getting LESS mpg. :mad: How is your tire prsssure?
IS the seatbelt retractor beinds the plastic of the trim? I cant remember and dont drive an ECHO now.
Good luck!
Thanks!
Two problems (the other I'll post separately)... gas tank problem:
The other day while driving the car sputtered like it was going to stall, but didn't, then seemed to self-correct - but the Check Engine light came on. Then at the gas station, when I opened the gas cap, it hissed and air came rushing out of it. As it turns out, the little metal flap the covers the hole inside the filler neck is gone (broke off or whatever). Also, now when I go to put gas in it, the pump clicks off every few seconds as though the pump thinks the car is full.
I'm assuming the problem is with this metal 'filler neck guard'... Toyota says the part is $20 and $160 for labor. My question is, has this ever happened to anyone else here before? Does it all make any sense? Do I have any other options (like, for instance, a gas cap that has an extended piece in the middle of it that would seal the filler neck without having to replace that silver piece)? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Two problems (the other I'll post separately)... vibration problem:
A few weeks ago, I had my winter tires taken off the car (and off the rims) and then two NEW tires installed on the front (Rovello tires from Wal-Mart) and the other two older tires re-installed onto the back. Now the car vibrates slightly (but enough to be annoying) when driving over about 65. At first I thought maybe the "techs" at Walmart didn't balance the rear tires properly so I had it re-done at a different garage... but it's still doing it.
I've had the brakes checked, and I don't think it's a coincidence that it happened after the tires were switched over. Could it be a problem that I didn't put 4 new tires on at the same time? The older rear tires still have a decent amount of tread. Or could it be an issue with the two new tires on the front?
Any suggestions would be appreciated since it's been very frustrating.
Good luck and tell us what happens!
Take it back to the place that origionally did the work and make them fix it! They will feel guilty and want to help!
I hope.
Tell us what you find out!
If you swap the tires front to rear, I suspect the vibration will be gone - indicating the new tires are - well, let's call it "out of round" - and no amount of balancing is going to fix that.
Try that and report back.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)