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BUT: there is a "love hate" problem!
The problem I have is that with only a lightweight camping bed in back, the rear axle seems to want to jump out from under! And traction on a dirt road is awful: even a small bump taken from a stand-still just causes the left rear wheel to dig in - I have to back up a couple of feet & make a run at such a thing.
Is there any way of improving these handling problems?
I would be terrified to try to drive this in snow & ice: thinking about the Wyoming Dog trainer's question a while back. Living in central California I don't have to worry much about snow.
Are you running the stock tires?
Yes, running stock tires - I have heard suggestions to switch to wider tires & run them softer, and also to remove one of the leaf springs, but don't know if that is actually good advice. I'm thinking of trying a couple of pounds less in the rear tires - no cost & if it helps......
Is positraction available after-market for less than an arm & a leg?
I know that my Mini-Cooper could have been ordered with some sort of electronic traction control, but it's not a problem on the Mini ;-) !
These boxes are cut out to clear the wheel wells, which keeps them in place front to back. The boxes are held in place side to side by 1x3 lumber braces on the floor & at the top. The 1/2" plywood top lies on the boxes & 1x3 top braces.
Sounds too lightweight, but I have used this general plan for many years with never a problem: the 1x2 supports the plywood & the plywood supports the lumber, I guess it could be called "semi-monocoque' construction.
To remove the bed, one just removes the 1/2"plywood deck,removes the braces (drop-in to blocks), out come the boxes (light enough to carry in one hand), and there you are! 10 minutes or less to install or remove. No hardware fastened to the van at all.
The seat consists of a 20" section @ the foot of the bed which goes into brackets on the sides to form the seatback. Found great 90" seatbelts on eBay.
BTW - the floor slots left when the rear seat anchors are removed are easily filled with pieces of 1x3 lumber - fit is almost perfect, just cut to length & round the corners!
Similar boxes could be used to make a regular table / bed as is often used in van conversions. in that case, I guess I'd fasten the boxes to the van floor or body - that's what I did with my '78 Chevvy van.
Get my email from my profile & I'll be happy to send photos.
Front Fascia with chrome trim $151
Rear Gray Fascia with step pad $111
2 Additional Keys $75
Does the Sprinter only come with one key?
and why $75? can't you just go out and make a copy of the key yourself?
They probably have an embedded chip to prevent theft of the vehicle.
You can see who the important people are in my family.
http://www.regulations.gov/freddocs/05-15691.htm
Note: the side impact testing has nothing to do with airbags. It has to do with the amount of fuel allowed to spill out after a collision.
HOW MANY QUARTS OF OIL?
WHAT TYPE OF OIL...I HAVE BEEN TOLD 0W30.
HOW DO YOU RESET THE ASSYST...I WAS NOT GIVEN A MANUAL FROM MY DEALER AND HAVE HAD A HARD TIME GETTING ONE..OR GETTING ANY QUALITY SERVICE FOR THAT MATTER.
GREAT VAN..POOR SERVICE FROM DODGE.
1) turn the key to position 2 and press the button twice
2) within 10 seconds turn the key back to 0
3) press and hold the button while turning the key back again to position 2, keep holding the button down until it makes a noise and resets to 10,000
4) release the button and you are all reset.
I took my sprinter in to get a few things looked at under warranty. They adjusted some bolts, looked a some things, ordered some parts and sent me off again 8 hours later. I haven't taken it back for the parts they ordered. It just isn't worth it.
Has anyone changed tires to a more aggressive pattern and what difference did it make?
Has anyone tried to use tire chains with a Sprinter?
Thanks
so I loved the sprinter the first time I read about them 3 years ago... now I have one and it is not ALL great, but it is quite good over all, especially for my family... Want to take another family along? no problem!
2004 MWB 10 seats, central locking, dual A/C Artic White, cruise, took delivery with 624 mi. on the speedo.
If you look carefully at the floor in the 2-seat row, you'll find a little hump and a set of perforations where another seat track can be added. We asked our dealer to include this new track. Then we moved the WIDE 3-seater up one row and put the 2-seater in the back for storage and emergencies (you might want to store it in your garage, the Sprinter probably won't be in your garage anyway). Now I have a HUGE area to carry things in the back and still have EIGHT SEATS in place. That is twice the seats and almost twice the cargo of the ASTRO/SAFARI (extended, 4 captains chairs, back seat out most of the time) that it replaced, and gets better mileage too!!!
Acceleration is adequate until you start from a dead stop with both A/C units on high, then you HAVE to WAIT for the TURBO to KICK in... woit for it, wait for it, wait for it, WHEEE!!! Two A/C units running noticeably drops mileage as well, One does not seem to do much to the mileage (yet, still under 3,000 miles).
The only niggling problem is the central locking (mentioned above, for a reason) and the key/opener fob which are pretty cantankerous.
If you are in the locked van, and you and the front passenger both get out (two front dorrs now unlocked), then hit the locking fob, all the doors will lock EXCEPT the passenger side door (front)... at least the lights don't flash so you MAY realize that the van is not locked. Now the instant remedy is to hit the inlock twice (to get the entrie van unlocke, IF IT WORKS!!!), then lock it up again.
Obviously I am saying this doesn't always work very well, so you can climb back in and use the central lock button to unlock all doors, then get out and close all doors and hit lock on the fob again (and Viola! it finally works)!!!
The dealer (Bob Howard Dodge, OKC/Edmond) is having problems figuring this out, but at least they see the problem. The first time my wife took it in, she didn't really understand the sequence that starts the problem, they blew her off, and they didn't bother to even call me to get the full story. I just can't take time off to go everytime a vehicle goes in for work.
My wife LOVE's the new van, central locking is such a small problem. She likes to DRIVE it, ride in it (up front or in back, either one). She has a handicap, so she generally parks in the wide spaces up front. When I drive it, I park way out to avoid door dings, I want my new ride to look good for a LONG time.
I did not find the Sprinter to be over-priced, and then I also got the last 2004 (here in September 2005), so I got a great deal. Even though I may only put <15,000 mile/yr on it I expect to drive any viehicle that I own OVER 10 years. this one I expect to go about 20 years, but it may be a semi-converted RV/camper after a while.
I don't expect to try to tow anything large, but will put on a hitch. If you MIGHT want this, get the factory hitch and trailer connector when you order!!! The lights are not simply something you can break into on the wires and have work. This requires some LONG runs of wire and a logic box or you will make problems. I have been warned, only 1 hour to mount hitch (or less), but nearly 5 hours for someone new to hook up the wiring harness.
You will also want RUNNING BOARDS, this thing is certainly tall. You will also field lots of questions, and may gather stares... i don't mind, and I will probably get even more soon: I intend to turn the Sprinter (back) into a Mercedes with a coversion package from the internet. :shades:
Our family currently is the owner of a 2002 VW Eurovan Weekender that seats 7. With the addition of our third child we find that we occasionally have the need for one additional seat. We are looking at purchasing a 2005 or 2006 Dodge Sprinter with the 118" wheelbase but would like the ability to take out the send three seat bench and replace with a one person jump seat or two person bench. Does anyone in the forum have any suggestions? I've looked on the web but cannot seem to locate any viable solutions. On long trips with just the five of us we would like to have a dometic fridge (available at Eurocampers.com) in back of the drivers seat.
Thanks,
Tom
From time to time, 2-seat benches, narrow 3-seat benches and wide 3-seat benches are listed on Ebay. Go to Ebay Motors and do a search for "Sprinter" to see whatever is avaialble. Eventually you'll see what you need. :shades:
Also, you should (?) be able to order your 118"WB model with one Wide 3 seater, and one 2 seater, seats; as you would like it. Make sure you get floor mounts in all six (6) places on the floor.
You would have 7 seats and the space you want too. :shades:
I have several drivers that drive my sprinter on deliverys, and I just give them each a door key, and the main chipped key stays inside(hidden of course) for driving.
1. Engine light goes- back to the dealer- they say it eas the shifter- some how out of adjustment
2. Engine light on a second time- back to dodge this time it is the air intake temp sensor(takes two days total to replace(they don't stock parts)
3.engine light on for a third time - service tells me to bring it in in a few days(even though there is a noticeable loss of power they tell me as long as it is not flashing its okay until I bring it in)
4. Problem 4 is because I had the dealer put four windows( back doors, side door and matching passenger side. I honestly thought they would be the stock windows just installed by the dealer but they are not- they are smaller. I was reluctantly excepting of this untill all four! windows leak(some of the drips when dry look rust colored.
Personally I don't think the dealership is up to the dask, help
My other questions are minor- is a fuel additive reccomended? Also the tires come with a max preassure rating of 80 ,the manuel reccomends 55 up front and 80 in back should I go with this?
Contact the warranty central site if this van does not come back to you ready to run this time!!!
I am very hesitant to put parts on mine that are not Daimler-Chrysler original, and it sounds like you either got non-original parts, or they cannot apply original windows to a van when the window openings were not cut at the factory... In ANY case, they should NOT leak, and should not have a rusty appearance unless you have red dirt in your area. All cut metal edges should be coated with rust prohibitive paint or sealer prior to installing the windows or other accessories.. :shades:
1) Central locking system is schizo... doesn't lock all doors when button is pushed (all doors closed), Passenger side door doesn't lock until a complete un-lock (all doors) cycle can be completed, then lock all doors (key fob). Getting worse while waiting on part(s). No parts stocked in local area?
2) Doors bang and rattle, rear (both) and side (sliding). One adjustment made per the technicians statement: "out of adjustment (at only 624 miles)". I can see where the passenger side rear door top hinge was moved and re-tightened.
3) 2- place seat bangs and rattles on bumps and any rough road, mostly fixed by Tech., much better. Also had a third rail added to third row, moved the wide 3 up and the two-place to back (have to get in/out through back door). much easier to remove some seating for bigger cargo needs.
4) now leaking transmission fluid around pan gasket!!!
5) Rear door banging and rattling AGAIN, service manager tells me I bought a "Commercial Vehicle" and I should expect it to RATTTLE, I want to tell Dusseldorf this really STUPID JOKE!!! He did NOTHING to try to fix it!!! I fixed 95% of the banging (which fixes the majority of the rattles in the back door) in about 20 minutes with a TORX driver (I now have a collection of them since the Sprinter designers LOVE them). To fix this, tighten (that is: loosen, slide up, and retighten) the Silver metal blocks on the rear doors so that the doors fit tighter in the door-frame in the back. I think the rattle in the back door is the rod that goes up to the top latch on the driver's side back door... how to FIX???
6) Side door now rattling more than when new (only 3,000 miles...).
7) Now has a rattle in the dash (could it be from them working on the Central locking system? Rattle is just behind (above) and to the left of the glove box. Any ideas?
SO, I need to go back to dealer and get MAD because I should NOT have to fix my own NEW van. They should NOT tell me they cannot do anything to fix problems that are APPARENT to anyone driving/riding in the van. They should not accept problems that the manufacturer would not accept as normal.
I LOVE my van, I love my van, I love my van.... :mad:
So my supposed problem? Fuel filler cap probably not installed correctly! Of course, the cap was on OK! Removed cap, started Sprinter, replaced cap, stopped engine, restarted and light goes out... Removed cap and light does not come back on. Maybe the vent in the cap was stuck and would not let make-up air into tank? I.E. vacuum on tank at about 1/2 tank?
Several more tanks of fuel later, and still no more lights. :confuse:
I recently purchased a used 2004 Sprinter and would like to get some things done to it but my local Sprinter dealer is unable to help. I hope someone out there can give me some ideas. I need to get the rear window defroster hooked up (wires are already there). I need to have running boards put on, an assist handle on the passenger side and would like a bug deflector put on. These don't seem to be all out of the ordinary but I don't understand why my dealer can't help.
I certainly understand your predicament... I asked the Dodge dealer at which I bought my Sprinter and where I have had service done so far. They don't have a clue where to get aftermarket accessories and don't seem to have any Daimler-Chrysler accessories either.
I am simply amazed that they are passing up an opportunity to over-charge for custom dealer-installed accessories. they did get me a number to call to get the running boards that I truly need: (888) 480-4060 (ext. 803, Wendy) Price is about $359 shipping included. Still haven't called to buy yet.
The dealer does have access to some factory options to add on, like trailer hitch (About $209) and the trailer light harness (about $60). BUT, they will charge an ehtire HOUR to install the hitch, and they say it took them about FIVE (5) HOURS to put in the electrical harness!!!!
The factory assist handle for the passenger side is nearly worthless, as it is overhead instead of in front of the person who tries to use it to get in/out. Easier to get out with than in... the side door assist handle is in a better position.
I have been looking closely at sprinteraccessories.com for the bug deflector and some other pieces ($225 for the class 3 hitch and harness together).
When you can't do the install yourself, it makes things more difficult, but you should be able to find a shop for truck accessories that will either be able to get your parts and install them, or install the ones that you find on the internet.
Hope this is somewhat helpful. KenB :shades:
I guess they did rush the job to get the Trans leak fixed... was the two O-rings on the sensor (?) on the trans. They did not, however, clean up under the van, and it was dripping fluid again when I came to drive it and make sure it was ready.
If I had not asked if it was cleaned up underneath, then maybe I would have taken it to a car wash and given it a bath before going back in and letting them know it was still dripping. Since I had asked if it was cleaned up, I did NOT expect to have dripping fluid, and did not accept the repair as completed. They graciously allowed for a rental car so they could keep it overnight and get things straightened out. After supposedly thorough clean up (a wipe down), they drove it 13 miles and find no more drips or leaks. If you have wiped trans fulid off of things, I think you would find, like I do, that a residue remains, and that dirt will soon cling to every surface...
I think I still need to carefully clean the fluid off, any body got any objections or care that should be taken?
Question? Does your Sprinter have any Real CONTROL to send air to the windshield or to your feet? With mine, the only way to really do this is to manually turn every dash vent OFF to force the air to go to the top or bottom vents (which ever you have turned on at the time). Also, those top vents on either side of the radio seem to only blow cool air, never warmed air. Possibly outside air?
Side sliding door was marked NWD (No Work Done) on work order (was rattling, especially on bumps), but is now not rattling much (over speed bumps and slightly rough road). So I assume they adjusted something, but no parts were required? I will ask them when I pick it up again today. Anybody have experience with this phenomena? The NWD, but now it seems better effect? :confuse:
Looking forward to many miles on the road before next problem/concern... KenB
I did not pay anywhere for the extra warranty, and the dealer said none was available. The warranty info says it was paid for.
The engine continues to have a 100,000 mile warranty as far as we can tell again. :shades:
:P
Full synthetic oil is about $6.00 a quart, check walmart, or cosco for best price.
the oil filter should be changed every time the oil is, dealer cost here in So Cal is $12.00. The oil filter is on the top drivers side of the engine. It is under a multi point screw off cap just behind the drive belts. The wrench to change it is available at most auto parts stores. cheap less then $10.00.
My rear doors rattle intermittantly. I use wd40 and they stop for a while. I will try the adjustments you talked about. I put foam under the latches for the 3 spot seat behind the front seats. It started rattling badly.
The dealer gave me the same BS about commercial vehicle. That is an excuse for them having no idea what they are doing. After all they sell Dodges.
That was the help I needed...
Rattle in dash was pretty constant, could re-create by pounding gently with fist down on the dash to the left of the air-bag trap door.
To fix the one I found, I removed the half oval by prying up gently on the oval near the windshield (not near the front of dash. Slide the oval toward the windshield and up and back out.
Next, I started gently pounding and looking for the rattle. The metal bar across seemed to rattle, as the rattle went away when I touched it firmly. A slightly harder tap revealed that the rattle still was there.
I removed, then tightened the bar back in place, don't over do it, the clips that it screws into are not very robust. This did not rid the rattle, yet.
Unscrew the metal bar, lift it out of its bracket, and let it sit. Next, pry out on the bottom edge of the panel that pops out when the airbag goes off... lift the cover up a bit and back toward the windshield. Inside you will see the airbag and around the interior of the mostly plastic dash parts and a metal shield that keeps the exploding airbag from melting/scorching the plastic dash components.
The shield is probably leaned over to the left and resting (or nearly resting) on the vent that comes out on the left of the airbag port. Bend the shield SLIGHTLY back to the right, there is a lot of room, but you don't want the shield against the airbag module either.
Now, carefully put the metal bar back in place, screw it down a bit, push the bottom of the airbag cover back into place so that it clicks in, and finally tighten down the metal bar on top and put the half-oval back into place.
One more rattle down, and now to tackle the sliding side door!!! When we hit bumps, the sliding door seems to bump up and down a bit and rattles more than it should. If anyone can help with hints, then please let me (and all the members here what to do to adjust side doors. :confuse:
Thanks,
Kenneth
where do you put the WD-40 to stop the rattle? :confuse:
thanks,
Kenneth
The snows are the only ones made for the Sprinter, I've been told. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any way to correct it?
Also, I don't want to drill, I would rather have bolt on that use existing attachment points, Any help would be appreciated. The ones I have found that come close are at trucknvan.com (stainless steel, almost the same price as the other aluminum boards I have found).
Lund/deflectashield has the Trail Back nerf bars with built in step pads, but I am not so happy with these as the step are is kind of small.
Any suggestions out here??? :confuse:
Thanks,
Kenneth
socket being a bit loose was the problem:
Slightly pushed ears (metal sides) of bulb holders in so that bulb is more snug in socket, works great now. :shades:
I did this to most of the sockets on the side that had the backup light malfunction. Will do the other side if/when I have it apart..
Also, on the dropping temp of engine, it sounds like your are in a COLD climate, right? You wouldn't need max-heat if it weren't pretty darned cold. Max Heat here at 40 F. (outside) is very hot.
Below 32 F., you should probably think about using a shield to block off part of your grill. the diesel uses a BIG radiator, and an intercooler on the intake and the combination will cause the temp to drop on the engine in cold weather.
KenB
try this URL for a mask for the Sprinter to aid in winter/cold conditions.
I am not affiliated with the company, and have not yet bought from them, but they have a great selection of stuff.
KenB :shades:
Thanks