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Dodge Sprinter

13468924

Comments

  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    Hi, I had power loss, went to dealer and this is what my paperwork says. " vehicle loses power on accel. fault code P2672 intaker ambient temp sensor failure, replaced sensor. Part #TE 8037155. When I drove it, it felt like my power was cut in half. That fixed the power prob. Dont know if it is the same prob you are having. It happened at 5510 miles. under warranty. Seems there was a service bulletin on bushing seal on the trans. Bulletin #21-002-05. They replaced that also. they replaced the bushing seals, says it had a weep leak. Hope this helps. Also hope it is with in warranty. Keep us informed on this, Thanks, Tom
  • bbird1bbird1 Member Posts: 8
    My 04 2500 model Sprinter was in the shop for 3-days and still Isn'nt right :mad:

    Symptoms:

    All three light on the dash come on at random at the same time. LBS, ABS Traction control :(

    Once in park, it stays locked in park, until I shut the motor off, then the lights will come off and then the park position is relased

    Power is down, especially in acceleration :sick: . Fuel consuption is up :mad: 21 down to about 15 :cry:

    To make matters worse the symptoms are Intermitten. Hopefully somone has had this happen to them before and can tell me the cure
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    I have had about 85% positive feeling on the sprinter. If I had a dollar for every tradesman asking how I liked it, I could retire. The other 15% I dont have the warm fuzzies. I have about 8k miles left on warranty. The electrical scares me. Is its going to sit at the dealer for a few days while they scratch their heads. I am a locksmith, and I get in and out all day long. alot of times I work in the truck with the engine off to do a simple job. But sometimes I sit in it for up to an hour or more to work. And the temp gauge goes down to begin blowing luke warm air and not Keeping up with the outside frigid air. I had it in for that, Fluids are ok, Scratch, Scratch on their head. While I had it in I had a chance to talk to a cross country sprinter driver. He told me about the shifter not releasing. Just below the shifter is a little U shaped spring loaded trap door. He said abour 6 inches down is a release for the release of the shifter. Have not tried it. I see that gm came out and put a diesel in their vans, Hummm !!! Keep us up on your symtoms, Sharing info helps us all, Tom
  • petervtpetervt Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like it might be the tires.

    I have a 2500 high roof and used studded Nokian's last winter.

    I drove through some serious snow and mountains here in Vermont and only got stuck once. The truck was empty at the time and I pulled out my chains and was on my way.

    You are right in that the Sprinter does not favor crosswinds.
  • cscalescscales Member Posts: 1
    :confuse:
    i am a sprinter owner since march 2005
    50,000 miles on it
    mostly happy until late nov 2005

    some sort of engine failure - had to be towed and have been stuck in north carolina for 3 days

    my 3/4 ton ford has had 0 down days since march of 2000
    my sprinter has had about ten down days ( although 7 were scheduled for a convenient time) since march of 2003

    the dealer was great about door adjustments, recalls on transmission, the valve stem recall.

    they charged me for a 40,000 mile transmission service (even though a different service manager told me the service wasn't needed till 70,000 mile)

    i was surprised the brakes needed replacement at 40,000 lots of brake dust on the front wheels, perhaps due to a teen delivery driving for 2 months

    what is the best discussion forum you have found

    i want to get a manual complete with service bulletins is there one available online?
  • qtreiberqtreiber Member Posts: 1
    I seriously consider buying a Sprinter 2500 with short wheelbase. I live in Boulder, CO and go quite often to the mountains, also in the winter.

    How does the Sprinter perform in snow, assuming there is no heavy cargo in the back?

    Any comments are appreciated!

    Armin
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    This is the best forum I have found, the one on Topica seems dead, no new items and no replies to questions recently entered.

    I wish I had a dealer here in OKC that would be good at fixing door problems... sliding door rattles over most all bumps/jiggles in the road and hops up and down on the worst bumps. I had to fix my own rear door banging/rattles, may have to re-do again after just 2 months. basically have to move the silver stop-blocks up on the two rear doors and tighten them down, Locktite maybe?

    Have not got any information on "recalls", but service bulletin on transmission seems very active as a problem on this forum. I had the leaking trans.

    Central Locking problems fairly common, it seems (at best) a quirky affair. We commonly have the doors unlock themselves when we push the lock stem or handle in (to lock). Often this requires pushing the lock stem down a second or third time until the system decides to settle on "locked" as the desired option. The central locking button on the dash always does a lock or un-lock when pushed, but just not sure which it will do first (lock? or unlock?) time pushed.

    Our central locking timer was replaced when the passenger side front door would not lock without first unlocking all the doors.

    Its good to have more people active on the forum,
    KenB :shades:
  • crashingsuckscrashingsucks Member Posts: 1
    I have smoke POURING out of my heater booster in the left front fender well. Has anybody seen this? BTW, I am guessing it is the heater booster because it only happens when the heater booster is on.

    Tim
  • inabandinaband Member Posts: 2
    Go to RVsurplussalvage.com. They have all kinds of furniture for a reasonable price, and it looks good to! :shades:
  • inabandinaband Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I have a 2002 3500 158 Sprinter. I was wondering if there is anywhere besides the dealer to get parts from? I am sick of paying dealer prices for repairs! Our alernator went bad, and i don't want to spend 800 bucks! Thanks, gabe
  • gbessomgbessom Member Posts: 1
    My father owns a Dodge model. But he and I have spoken about changing the badges to Merc. Does anyone know of a place that can help? Do you think it would be easy?
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    E-Bay has some for 295.00. Also see message #268. A website there for sprinter stuff, Tom
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    No smoke from mine, But does not sound good. Right after I got my 04, I was at a customers house on their snow covered drive. Left the van running to retain heat, with the booster on. It was about 5 degrees out. 20 min later I left and noticed a large melted spot on the drive. Went straight to the dealer. It was the booster exhaust venting. They told me to use the booster to get the heat up to normal temp, then shut it off. no wonder I was getting 17mpg. With all the diff. things on the sprinter, I suggested they have a sprinter class to tell us about all the diff. things to look for. Keep us informed on the smoke, hope it is minor, Tom
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    What kind of fuel prices do you guys pays, I'm in michigan. Yesterdays fill was 269.9. Seven miles away saw it for 249.9. Also what kind of mileage are you getting. Mine is freeway and around town 22.5 to 23.9. best at 24.8, Tom
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    the manual says to use the Aux. heater periodically, don't let it go months between uses. Also says that you can turn it on below 41 F. and leave it on so it will cycle on and off on its own... however, mileage will decrease.

    As Tom says, you can turn it on to get up to temp (somewher near 180 F), then turn it off if you don't need extra heat from the air vents. And Dodge DOES need to have Sprinter classes to educate their owners/drivers. This would be a very cheap way to improve satisfaction. :shades:

    KenB
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    OKC, OK near I-35 and I-40 (on major routes), we see truckstops with the price for diesel @ $2.18 - $2.24 right now. In town it is higher, up to $2.39 or $2.49.

    On our 2004, MWB, 2500 HC, 5K miles: we get 20.0 MPG (in town, highway, mixed) doesn't seem to matter where/who is driving (me/wife).

    Since I am 2+ MPH low on my speedometer (at all speeds checked), it may be off. At 83 on the speedomater (pedal to the metal), I run 79.9 MPH per the handy-dandy GPS which is very accurate here in the center of the country. Wiil not/cannot go over this speed, also run slow, as low as 30 MPH, where I run 27.5 to 27.8 MPH per GPS

    KenB :confuse:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    check on e-bay, there have been some spares and parts, and even people parting out wrecks (mostly in Great Britain so far)...

    I saw an alternators last week, but you need to make sure you get the same Amps (or larger) as you had. I think it was a 115 amp model.

    I have been hoping that the parts stores would get up to speed by the time I hit the end of by waranty... ;)
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    I called my service writer today to ask him to talk to one of the sprinter mech. I was in the van for 25 min. the temp was above 180. In that time it dropped to just above 110. Blowing luke warm air. Hope he calls back. Have had it in for this before. They said it must be a bubble in the system!! It was 26 out. cant wait till it hits zero. Guess it is time to order that radiator cover that you told me about. Tom
  • soapladysoaplady Member Posts: 1
    In less the 6 weeks the Sprinter has been towed 4 times, ultimately replacing battery and a part from Germany we waited 6 weekds for. Any tips on cold weather starting? Could fuel type be a problem? Does it need an auxillary heater left on over-night? Temperature in the 20s at night. We have been taking it back to Chrysler dealer where we bought it. Is there a better place? Any and all tips relating to not starting would be helpful. Thank you!
  • hawk8hawk8 Member Posts: 31
    we just got a price quote of $32.949.00 +TTL for a 2006, 3500 SHC 158WB cargo van no options, does this sound like a good price?
    Thanx.
  • jlr1jlr1 Member Posts: 4
    Has any one found a transmission dip stick from there dealer or after market?My dealer said its not in his parts book but he will look in to it.My van is off warranty and I feel I should have one.Thanks
  • jlr1jlr1 Member Posts: 4
    I live in Canada last winter we hit 40 below for a week.I had no problems starting my van and I assume you have a block heater for cold temps.And you are using the pre- start heater?
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    http://www.sprinteraccessories.com/058_winter_front_mask.html This is the site ken baker gave me for a grill mask. I have had no problems with cold weather starts. Been to 10 below a few mornings, sluggish but starts. What part did you have to wait for 6 weeks?? I am looking for other shops that repair sprinters, I am out of warranty in 7k miles or so. Good luck and let us know, Tom
  • teprk6teprk6 Member Posts: 2
    I'm currently living in Fairbanks, AK and I purchased a cold weather front from http://www.alaskatent.com/products/covers/winter_fronts.htm
    There product works great in the extreme cold that we experience up here. Today it was -30 degrees F. Sprinter has had no problems so far in the cold. Auxillary heater is perfect for up here.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    It is a pain, but you should read the owners manual carefully... Turn key to run (don't try to start), then wait for the little spiral light on the right side of the instrument cluster to go out (indicates glow plugs are up to temp), now turn the key to start. If you don't start in 5 seconds quit cranking! Start over by turning the key to OFF, then repeating the cycle above. As soon as you get up and running, turn on the aux. heater (below 41 F, certainly below 30 F) this will get things warmed up quicker. The switch for this heater is the little bar between the A/C button and the REST button. Turn the aux. heat when up to temp or mileage will certainly suffer.

    Run the Aux. heater ten (10) minutes every month (even in hot weather) to keep it cleaned up, etc. (per manual)

    If you are in really cold weather (like 0 F), you may really need a block heater to plug in to household current. I am guessing you don't have a garage tall enough for a Sprinter, so at least park out of the wind if you can when you use a block heater. If you do park indoors, then I can't really imagine much of a need for a block heater unless it is a seriously un-heated space.

    Yes, fuel type could be a problem as Summer Diesel will gel a bit in REALLY COLD weather. A BUSY truck stop is your best bet for fresh fuel right for the season you are in. Your Sprinter will even take the huge nozzle that the big rigs use.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    I believe that your Sprinter warranty is also good at Freightliner Sprinter Dealers (call them) they may have more experience as they have sold them a bit longer and have had to satisfy fleet customers... but you'll just have to find out if you like them or not.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    no dipstick... must take temperature of trans and use some special service tool... kind of weird!!!

    change filter and trans fluid ONCE at 80,000 miles and then forget it? well, that is the official line. the unit is basically sealed (the dip-tube is covered, and sealed with a plastic lock that will show tampering if opened.

    other posts would indicate that that heavy use would indicate changing at 60,000 miles. If you have transmission stuttering or shifts are no longer smooth, then you probably need to change fluid and filter (first time) and fluid only thereafter.

    Mercedes fluid for the Sprinter is synthetic, you may find the whole kit on e-bay sometimes.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    mine smokes white when I first turn it on, then just heat with a tiny amount of smell comes out after that.

    KenB :confuse:
  • hawk8hawk8 Member Posts: 31
    can someone answer message # 291? pretty please.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    OK I'll take a stab at it,
    is it above or below list? If list price or below, you are OK with that price on Sprinters. Some markets are above list, but not much, or stuck on list.

    If you get it close to invoice you are really getting a deal... No options at all? what are you going to do with it? :confuse:

    I would at least recommend the upgrade seats, they are worth it for sure. Since the steering wheel doesn't adjust, it is really important for the seat to adjust. If you are looking to convert the van, then I guess you might do the seats from another source, but the upgrade ones are very good.

    KenB
    (2004,MWB(140"),2500 HC(3/4T, low roof)Wagon (passenger))
    Conversion to Mercedes badges/grille... for fun!!! :shades:
  • hawk8hawk8 Member Posts: 31
    Thanx Ken, the options we'll be geting > 2 additional keys, 150AMP alt, Comfort seating, speed control, parbolic mirrors & 4-11 axle ratio. now the price is $33.614.00 + TT&L.
    we'll doing our own conversion. the MSRP is $36.270.00 Invoice is about $33.146.00.
    Thanx again.
  • teprk6teprk6 Member Posts: 2
    I originally had the same concerns of the rear wheel drive and the extreme cold weather starting. I currently live in Fairbanks, AK. I test drove one of these 10 passenger, behemeths and found that everything they said about the traction control and the anti-skid control was true. I purposely took and tried to spin a doughnut, power slide, spin out, everything that one can do in a normal rear wheel drive vehicle. I did all of this on hard-pack snow, pretty slippery stuff. The van is designed not to loose control. It did slide a little bit at first but then the computer took over and the van corrected itself. I didn't believe it either until I saw for myself. I tried to get her to spin out but she just wouldn't do it. Of course I have since purchased this same van and after reading the owners manual it says that you cannot defy the laws of physics with this van, but that it is designed to be able to keep control of in adverse driving conditions. As for the extreme colds, the auxillary heater is the key to this van's success in the extreme cold experienced here so far. The coldest I have experienced so far this year is (negative) -37 degrees F. That's way too cold! After about thirty minutes or so of preheating with the auxillary heater, she started right up. She eventually moved. At negative thirty or colder everything starts acting different than normal. We have extra oil pan heaters, transmission pan heaters, and battery blankets installed to combat the really extreme cold. I have not been able to plug in the extra heaters only one time and she still started up after 30-40 minutes of auxillary heater only at minus 35 degrees. So far I am really enjoying my experience with this big ugly van! There aren't too many of these up here in the Fairbanks area. :)
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Stirling Moss Quote applies to driving large vehicles in possibly dangerous situations... "It's better to go into a turn slow and come out fast, than to go into a turn fast and come out dead." If you are increasing speed, the computer can compensate due to the changing conditions it feels at the point they are getting out of hand. If you already have momentum when the time for trouble comes, then PHYSICS ALONE governs the majority of the outcome.

    Here in Oklahoma we have more 4WD vehicles in town than many states have in the crountyside and that just gets dangerous in the ice we tend to get... they can get up to speed better than many 2WDs, but they don't stop any better. :surprise:

    KenB
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    :) I have 28k on mine and today I heard and felt some soft grinding. Anybody have brake tales to share. Does anybody else do brakes on sprinters? Also, From my message 289, My service writer never called me back, So what else is new. Are there any pads that dont throw as much brake dust. Thanks, Tom
    PS I thought michigan was cold!! :)
  • randy12randy12 Member Posts: 1
    2500,2003 sprinter has no power, hard to start,black smoke. Intermittently my van will lose power. When this happens it smokes quite badly which I assume means the fuel is not properly ignited. If I keep it in first gear while accelerating until rpm's are about 3,000 it will sometimes kick into turbo regain power and I am good for a while. The area around the rubber turbo hose entrance into an intake device of some kind is black with oily sooty [non-permissible content removed]. Today in michigan it is about 8degrees and my van wont start. I am wondering if this intake device has a sensor problem or maybee my injectors are getting clogged up. Is it possible that water is in my deisel even though the indicator is not indicating this.Any comments are surely appreciated.
  • dontbuydodgedontbuydodge Member Posts: 2
    I've been fighting with the Dodge dealership up here in Ontario canada, for the very same problem. My Sprinter's brakes have sucked from day#1.

    If the brakes get hot, it groans and growls. Sounds like a warped rotor or something. Apparently this is not un-common with fully metallic brake pads. Seems to be an imperfect bonding issue. They still haven't fixed it for me though, it's like pulling teeth to get something fixed.

    They have finally heard the noise of which i am speaking, so next week it goes in again....

    I'll let you know
  • dontbuydodgedontbuydodge Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 dodge sprinter is Black Blue as they call it. My hood and surrounding areas are chipping severely. I have other people i know with White sprinters and not a chip is on the hood. There are seriously around 80-100 chips and it only has 24k on it. I'm scared to see what it is like at 100k. The dealership says paint chips aren't warranty, and thank you for purchasing the 970$ canadian paint color. It cost 970$ to paint it blue and this is what i get. Sad.

    I also get a mean growl out of the brakes coming down from high speeds. Anyone else have this issue?

    My turbo seals are already leaking, dealership tried to hide that one. It goes back in next week for a few repairs.

    The heater control doesn't work properly, it always blows at your face.

    See what happens when you don't buy it from mercedez, they slap some dodge emblems on it and it falls apart!!!

    Adam - Ontario, Canada.
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Member Posts: 67
    I saw some bubbles in the paint after I got it. I stopped at a auto paint shop first, he confirmed. So off to the dealer to their paint dept. If I hear the word rail dust again I will throw up. They say they will have to take pictures of it and send them to chrysler. But I have to leave it for the day for the pics. Tom :mad:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    Check for information on "rail Dust" or imbedded impurity in clear coat surface... deposited there after painting is done, but before clear coat become completely set. I would propose that the paint curing process is faulty, not enough UV hardener, or not long enough under UV light to set the clearcoat.

    "Claying" is the cure if this is the case. You work over the areas with the clay (see Hog Wash Clay in your browser), then you buff and wax.

    Apparently most tru rail dust will rust and this will show as rusty looking pin dots.

    See Sherwin-Williams:

    http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/rail_dust/inde- x.cfm

    KenB
  • reinhardt1reinhardt1 Member Posts: 1
    We have owned owned 4 sprinters for about 6 months and we just had one go down with a message on the dash that said starting error. Has been in the shop for 10 days diagnosed w/ a bad module that nobody has in stock. Once the dealer gets the module they have to do some programming or your key won't work. Now our 2nd one is down with the same error. We now are waiting for 2 trucks to be repaired. Certainly I'm not alone on this situation. Anybody else had this problem?
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    My question would be: "What are they providing to you as replacements during your down time"?

    I read one place where a guy had to have a module or part from Germany in order for his Sprinter to get back on the road.

    Both keys supplied with van don't work? Just curious, not that this could be a fix... but what if the keys are going bad?

    Please keep us posted. This site seems very helpful to me.

    KenB :confuse:
  • alfaunoalfauno Member Posts: 13
    If you bought a Sprinter (or four) from a Dodge dealer, and you bought it for a business, didn't they offer you a free BusinessLink membership? It's a Dodge program that guarantees you a free service loaner, priority service bay access, and some special financing. I signed up for it, but haven't had a need to test it yet. Ask your dealer about it.
  • alfaunoalfauno Member Posts: 13
    Can anyone explain how the auxilliary heater works? The owner's manual tells how to use it, but not how it functions. For example, why does it use more fuel? Is the mixture richened, or is an artificial load placed on the engine somehow? However it works, it does increase the speed at which the engine comes up to temp, so that it will start to share some heat with you.
    I think there is a fundamental difference in philosophy betwen American or Japanese, and German engineers that is apparent here. The American will send heat to the cabin first, and the German is more concerned with bringing the machinery up to temp first. This is also demonstrated by the climate control in my wife's Mercedes. The auto climate control does nothing until there is a certain level of heat in the system, then the fan comes on full blast and turns itself down as the car warms inside.
  • hkpiercehkpierce Member Posts: 1
    Our family currently is the owner of a 2002 VW Eurovan Weekender that seats 7. With the addition of our third child we find that we occasionally have the need for one additional seat. We are looking at purchasing a 2005 or 2006 Dodge Sprinter with the 118" wheelbase but would like the ability to take out the send three seat bench and replace with a one person jump seat or two person bench. Does anyone in the forum have any suggestions? I've looked on the web but cannot seem to locate any viable solutions. On long trips with just the five of us we would like to have a dometic fridge (available at Eurocampers.com) in back of the drivers seat.

    The Sprinter 2-seat will mount on the 3-seat "receiver cups" without the need to adapt anything. The 2-seaters are available on various Sprinter forum postings, EBay and the RV surplus site out of Elkhart, Indiana where a lot of Sprinter conversions are performed.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    At temps below 41 F, you can turn on the aux. heater to gain heat faster. It really is a heater like a water heater in your home, and uses diesel to run. First it starts up, then it ignites, then runs at high until up to 185 F, then it either shuts down or goes into low heat mode. In my experience, at a low of 2 F, it took about 10 minutes to get useful heat out of the vents with the use of the aux. heater.

    Now, with the heat up, the aux. heater is supposed to snooze until the heat goes below 165 in the engine/heater. but if indications are true, then it is still in low heat mode and using fuel slowly. This heater can sound like a little jet engine when it is up and running and spins down over a several second period when you shut the engine down.

    Fuel use is increased because the heater uses fuel directly to heat the water flowing through it.

    Pump priming for the heater may take several second if it has never been used. The heater should be used at least 10 minutes every month to keep it ready to work.

    I agree that M-B prefers to give heat to the engine first and the passengers second. I also found that the aux. heater is not needed to keep temp up when driving on the highway at 2 F and 70 MPH, but the temp drops quickly at idle at this outdoor temp.

    KenB
  • jwhatcherjwhatcher Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2004 Sprinter 2500. At about 80,000 miles the transmission started slipping. We are now facing a rebuild or replacement. We wrote to Dodge and Daimler-Chrysler about this problem and about the lack of a dipstick to check the trans fluid. Of course, they did not answer us. I believe they know the transmission is a problem, and just don't want to admit it. Our mechanics are frustrated because they cannot service the vehicle.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Member Posts: 239
    When did you do your TRANs fluid and TRANs Filter change?

    By 80,000 you are to have the abbove completed. When it is done, the transmission fluid used is critical. It must be the genuine (apparently synthetic) version of the M-B or D-C fluid for this application.

    Other people have experienced similar problems and got their transmission back running/shifting OK just by changing trans fluid and making sure that they get the correct fluid.

    I don't yet have 6,000 miles on mine, so I don't have much experience except with the trans leak from the o-rings on the sensor which seems common. Apparently Miller Tool does have a transmission dipstick, but it measures from touching the bottom of the pan, is very long, cannot be left in the diptube, and the use of such devices requires that you know the internal temp of the trans.

    Found the description on Yahoo Groups Sprinter Van (most active users group I've found so far). I have seen more than one description of the trans slipping (near 80,000 Miles) which were fixed by simply changing fluid.

    IMHO, if you take out 5 quarts and put in 5 quarts (and you didn't have a leak), then you don't need a dipstick to determine level. That, and changing fluid out is way cheaper than changing a trans out (unless you still have to change the trans anyway).

    KenB :confuse:
  • goodhausgoodhaus Member Posts: 1
    I, too, have this problem. I took it to the dealer and explained it to them, they "tested" it and said they couldn't find any issue. This was at 35,500 miles and I think they were trying to get out of any extra warranty work. I have found that it does not happen if the pre-heater is turned off. It does not seem to work anyway. Have you had any more luck?

    hans
  • jwhatcherjwhatcher Member Posts: 2
    The transmission was serviced at about 50,000 miles. I will have to check with our mechanic what type of fluid he used. We recently took it to the dealer where it was bought, and they chaqnged the fluid and filter at just over 80,000 miles. This seems to have corrected most of the slippage problem, but our driver tells us he can still feel a slight slippage from time to time.

    The dealer is still recommending we bring it in. He does not recommend replacement, but a partial rebuild - about $2000.00 versus about $4000-$5000 to replace the transmission.

    The lack of the dipstick still is a mystery to us. The dealer told me that there is a special tool to check the transmission fluid. That just boggles our minds.
  • glenpierceglenpierce Member Posts: 1
    I have a oil leak on my 2003 Sprinter on the top of the engine at the EGR valve. It has been in the shop for this twice and they replaced the same part both times but the leak re appears within 2-3 days. All I get from the Technician is that they all leak. Not so! I stopped another 2003 sprinter and he showed me his EGR and it was completely leak free. Any Suggestions would be appreciated. hate oil leaks.
    glenpierce@aol.com
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