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Comments
KenB
I have a 10 passenger 2005 2500 [Hi-Roof, 140 WB and Aux A/C]. I run
with and without Aux A/C, with and without ANY AC, with anywhere
between 2 to 10 passengers and load, city drive and/or freeway and I
get ONLY 15 to 17 MPG... It does not matter what I do, I am not able
to reach 20 MPG. The van has 7800 mi and I was told it will get
better after 10K... I hope it does since I am planning to tow a 4000
lbs trailer... At the rate of consumption I get now, I will drop to
where I was getting when I was using our 2001 Durango to pull the
trailer.
On another note, I have an annoying noise in the exhaust system (or
maybe the Turbo) between 2700 and 2900 RPM. This is exactly the spot
where you are running about 70 MPH on the freeway (in CA this is what
almost everybody does so you have to keep with the traffic) and the
noise is hearting the inner ear (low frequency � not high pitch as
the turbo does usually)... I was 4 times with it at the dealer and
finally they acknowledged the noise and said that MB/Dodge knows
about it and there are few 2005s that have this issue. Is there
anybody out there that experienced something similar?
This might be linked to the low MPG that I am averaging?...
Thank you for looking into this,
Florin
===========================================================
OK, after I got home from work and I waited for the rush traffic to die down here it is what I measured using the Magellan GPS, Speedo and Tach:
========================================================
GPS Speedometer Tachometer Comments
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------
50 MPH 53 MPH 1900-1950 RPM D gear
50 MPH 53 MPH 2150 RPM 4th gear (manually shifted)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------
60 MPH 63.5 MPH 2200-2250 RPM D gear
60 MPH 63.5 MPH 2700-2750 RPM 4th gear (manually shifted)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------
65 MPH 68 MPH 2300 RPM D gear
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------
70 MPH 74 MPH 2650-2700 RPM D gear
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------
76 MPH 80 MPH 2900 RPM D gear
========================================================
Tomorrow I’ll crawl under to see if I can locate the axle ratio numbers on the housing and I will inspect again the whole length of the exhaust.
Just a note, something that I knew but I realized tonight during the test drive: the annoying noise (low frequency rumble) is at it’s peak when the van is trying to get back to the cruise control set speed of 70 MPH (GPS numbers, 73 speedo) after it drops a bit under. Same when I do not use cruise control and I am coasting at about 70 MPH if for some reason I let the gas a notch and then I try to regain the 70 GPS /73 speedo, when the RPM reaches about 2700/2750 for about 100 RPM it starts rumbling the low frequency sound. If the radio is on and people are talking and you are going through the range just short periods you might miss it, but if you are cruising down the freeway between 69 and 73 MPH (GPS) for a while (i.e. on I10 between Phoenix and LA) you will notice it and it becomes bothersome.
BTW I just filled up and on the last 410 miles I go an average of 17.9 MPG (this was mixed traffic and city drive with about 25% freeway with almost no load and NO A/C). Overall, since I got the van 7650 miles back, my average is 16.352 MPG (with min at 15.513 MPG and max at 19.235 MPG – this was a 100 miles drive on a flat road at 55 MPH GPS)
Hope this helps.
Florin
FYI
Check your tire pressure. I run mine at 70/80 Lbs. you may get a more stiffer ride but you will have less rolling resistance thus getting a slight Increase in gas mileage
Turning left onto a major street today, there was another private Sprinter waiting at the light as I was turning across in front of them (2500 SHC, panel/window), and the guy nodded to me as I passed... we know we got a good thing. Most of the Sprinters seen in OKC are either delvering UPS, Fedex, or Medical Supplies. Have yet to see another Wagon with all windows, but our salesman told us that a doctor in another suburb bought one as well.
My best information locally has been form a church that bought 4 or 5 to shuttle people and take trips. Going to Oklahoma State University football games was a blast, especially after I got the Mercedes Grill installed, it really turns heads. Can't wait to start going to games with the full conversion done (nothing Dodge is left showing now). My only regret is that I preferred the Dodge hub caps for style and coverage.
What is a "grease conversion kit", please? I did have the "O" ring problem on the Trans, and a central locking timer module not working correctly. I average 19.5 MPG.
Fortunate to have a Truck wash nearby where I can get the tall van (roof-top factory A/C) washed for me, or a self-wash in town that has steps on both sides of one bay where I can get up high and power wash the top. :shades:
KenB
great to hear the the Aux. Heater is working well for you on those cold days we talked about before... Did you ever get the winter radiator cover?
I did the Merc. Conv. myself. Used CMUGGLER on Ebay, went well, tell him I sent you if you want to do this... and ask for extra padding if you have fed-ex bozos where you live like we do in OKC, OK. They seem to be able to damage many things without tearing up the outside packaging beyond a mere scuff or two. PrepAll is recommended for removing the adhesive from the double stick tape under the chrome on the hood and the DODGE letters on the rear door... It does not work well with the newer adhesive. I would recommend OOOPs ( a product from the paint dept. at wallyWorld). Also need to be above 60 degrees and out of the sun when you are removing the tape (and not indoors as it is pretty much not good to breathe the fumes).
Instead of working in small areas you may need to soak the foam repeatedly and let is sit for a while... test in an inconspicuous area to make SURE it does not damage your paint.... After 30+ minutes of soaking, spraying, soaking, etc. the tape will come off fairly easily and the residue will come off easily with a shop cloth soaked in a bit of OOOPs. I had slightly better results with a product called UN-DO, but it was a tiny container (dropper bottle) and just not enough for the job. I bairely got through the chrome on the hood with the whole little bottle.
The central locking started out flaky when I bought the van new (624 miles). If you locked all doors, then got out of the front two, then hit the lock button on the key-fob, it would lock all except the front passenger's door. To get it all synced back up, you had to get all the doors unlocked, then lock them with the key fob again. Some other quirks were possible with the system acting up, like: you could lock the passenger door from inside, then it would just unlock again. Lock it again, then it would unlock and immediately re-lock again on its own. The repair on the order was for a Central Locking Timer module.
KenB :shades:
I believe that both of my lumbar inflators are going out as well, but we don't even use them much. Let us know what part is required to get them fixed, I presume that the inflator bulb and valve assembly is one piece.
An oddity for me is that I am getting 3,000 and 6,000 mile notices for service on my Sprinter from my Dodge dealer... I guess their computer system is stuck or normal service intervals.
Happy New Year!!!
KenB :shades:
I am not sure what you will find out, but if you have the CD, perhaps something more will occur to you based on this test.
KenB :shades:
Dodge wanted over $600 for front pads and rotors. Local firestone store (same Job) $324.00
There are 3 different pads for the 2500 Van. My new 1 ton sprinter just had the dash light come on with 356 miles on the speedo. Deja Vu
IS THIS NORMAL?????
IS THERE ANY THING I CAN DO????
I have a 05, low roof 118 wb passenger van. I also use it to pull a 4000 lb camper. On its own,I get 23 mpg + or -, with the camper and AC on it drops down to 17 or 18 mpg.
I also have that same "droning" noise that you have. I get it when under a load, up hill pulling my camper or just with a load in the van on the highway. I ordered mine with the extra insulation and can only wonder what it would sound like if I didn't. I have not taken it to the dealer for this. The truth is I have not had any real good dealer experiences. Mine is a Freightliner Sprinter and I get the feeling that they would rather work on real "Freightliner" then a Sprinter.
TH
Often, I have to totally unlock all doors with the keyfob before it will lock, especially if I have opened the side or rear doors. Takes a couple of extra seconds, but no big deal.
Ken asked what I meant by a grease conversion - I meant that I was thinking about adding the components to allow the diesel to run on waste cooking oil from restaurants. I was only moderately interested, but now moreso after reading a profile about a restaurant owner who converted his 2005 Mercedes E350. You're adding a second fuel tank, fuel line heater, and switches. The biggest trick is filtering the oil before use. Payback on the approx $1000 investment is fast, however, because the oil is typically free. See www.greasecar.com for more info
Delivery? 5-6 months. That's what you'll be told if your dealer is honest with you. We ordered in early Feb, picked up in late July '05. After all, the truck is built in Germany, then shipped to the US, the Dodge conversion is done, and then it is sent on the dealer. Our dealer doesn't get too many orders - most are sold off the lot as people can't wait - so they were joking with us as we were leaving after ordering "see ya next year!"
Verdict - worth the wait.
Robert C
2500HC WG 118
Running on waste oil intrigues me, but I am just not sure about running on un-processed oils with the new high-pressure common rail injection system since parts tolerances must be very tight. I would guess that the 2005 E350 has a similar system to our Sprinters.
Good thing our dealer had one in stock that had most all of the options I wanted and all that I needed... we took it right off the lot. Our dealer didn't seem to have any clue about add-ons and aftermarket upgrades, especially running boards, hitches, bug shields (harder to do now that I did the Mercedes Conversion). The europeans don't seem to know what a bug/gravel shield is and our American suppliers dont't expect the half-moon opening for the Merc. hood to be exposed. I know I can cut out a window in the bug shield, but a factory job is bound to be cleaner as it would be cut on a jig or CNC'd.
KenB :shades:
thanks
jerrygriner
Remember the 3/36 rule, as I was lucky enough to have taken it in to the dealer with 34750 miles. Waiting now to get "Regional" approval to re-paint entire van...
What a crap paint job! I have a silver 93 Nissan with no problems!!!
Anyone else had paint/rust issues and what was your warranty experience? Thanks, SD Kiefer
My driver side door met a pole, and now I am having trouble finding a body shop that can work on it. Every one I have tried have said it is too big for their paint room. Does anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area know of a shop? Has anyone had a similar experience? :sick:
Thanks!
Kevin
I am a but lost as I research this as it seems that information is not as abundent as with a regular car.
I am wondering, do I purchase this at a regular dealership or do I have to deal with Freightliner. Moreover, who is Freightliner anyway.
Also, are there any sites where I may obtain a primmer or other information on options or other information about this vehicle.
Thanx in advance for any suggestions.
If you are fortunate to find one to your liking on a lot, it will probably be white unless it has been custom ordered and not taken, or they have more moxie than the dealership I got mine at. If you special order you will have to wait about 5-6 months. Get the upgraded seats and all the arm rests you can get. If you get the 118", I would only get 8 seats or maybe even just 7. The tall is nice if you are not in a major windy (gusty) weather area. I am in gusty/windy Oklahoma, and I got a regular roof, still much easier to get around in than my Dad's 1-ton Ford Van. If you get the 140" with 10 seats, get the dealer to put in the extra floor bracket so you can re-arrange the seats to any row. We usually take out the 2-place seat, and leave the wide 3-place seat in the row it came out of. that leaves 8 seats in place and enough cargo area to really make a big trip.
I would really recommend the 140", as this is what I replaced my mini van with (I get the same or better mileage as I did with the minivan in ALL conditions). Better mileage by at least 4 MPG in town than my GMC Safari. For a family of 4 maybe all I really need is a 118", but we haul extra people all the time. School, church, neighbors, friends, scouts, etc. We also like to camp alot and this will be partially converted in the future when it is just my wife and I.
This vehicle is built for lots of miles, low maintenance, great drivability (even in tight spots), and plenty of economical power but not for huge towing. I am getting about 21 MPG on highway and about 19 around town. I am slightly disappointed, as many have reported up to about 27 MPG, one even has about 30 MPG. I guess I zip around town like just about any other vehicle, and my speed on most highways around OK, Kansas, and TX is around 70-75 MPH. I never seem to fall into the range that gets the best mileage (55 MPH). Running the second A/C unit certainly drops the mileage, but with the dark windows you don't usually have to run that part very much.
Accessories not yet easy to find, but getting better every day... Nice running boards, trailer hitches, steps, bug deflectors, etc. Europeans don't seem to have/need/want these things, or else the Value Added Tax (VAT) to acquire them is too high to stomach. Also this is a commercial vehicle in most of the world, but individual ownership is catching on (of course this is especially true in the USA).
Thanks,
KenB :shades:
:shades:
Use MOBIL1 0w40 about 9.5 quarts (as directed by the manuals).
Many other Diesels could probably be going by this spec (10,000 miles) if you use fully synthetic oil in them. 3,000 mile oil changes are totally bogus with modern oil of the latest specs (especially synthetic).
For example, even my 1987 Chevy Astro had an interval of 7,500 miles, and it was going strong at 105,000 miles when the people who bought my tradein skidded it off into a ditch. My 1994 GMC Safari is at 113,000 and has had long oil changes with only first-rate (mostly conventional) oil and is running great with minimal maintenance required (filters, oil, alternators (3), engine mounts (1 x), oxygen sensor, brakes) that's it, no internal engine parts or failures. Some intervals were 10,000 miles (twice I believe). runs like a champ.
KenB :shades:
Lisle(brand) # 54760 Cost: $4.20 US
Empire Tool
11616 Hempstead Hwy
Houston, Tx 77092
Phone 713 957 8665
Fax 713 957 8664
www.empiretools.com
They also offer scanners for rent or sale.
https://techauthority.gltghosting.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CustomerHome?lan- gId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10051
Noticed you are a locksmith too.
I'm going to be getting a Sprinter in a few weeks too.
I'm a little tight on cash right now, so I need to ditch a family car to get this van.
I was originally thinking of getting the bench seats in the 2nd row to take my kids to day care and putting the cargo divider behind the 2nd row, but that'll be a pain climbing over the seats to get to the back.
So I'm thinking of putting 2 swivel captains chairs in 2nd row (removable too) so I can just pop them in on the days I need them, and with the 2 seats separated, I can still walk past the seats into the cargo area.
I'll be getting an aftermarket divider with a center door so I can lock it closed.
Is there room under the floor to mount the plates under the van for the seats?
I think there is a plate that gets installed under the van that bolts up into the plate holding the swivel seats.
Anybody done captains chairs yet? Can you recommend a source for chairs?
I'm thinking if I mount the partition flanges on opposite sides of the regular mounting position, I can attach this right behind the sliding door. (Adrian Steel partition.) Sort of reversing the brackets.
I worked out of a GMC Safari, so I know what a tight fitting van is all about. I calculated it, and the workable cargo area will be slightly shorter, but a tad wider and much higher than the Safari.
I just have to learn to put stuff away and not use the floor again. I'm so bad with that.
I'm starting out again and definitely have plans on becoming bigger than one man. So this will make a good starter van. The other vans will have much more room I'm sure, even if I get the 118 without the 2nd row of seats.
As I said, I'm gathering bids for the van the last few days. I'll let you know what I get!
http://www.sunshinelocksmith.com