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i have to store mine away from my home address because it is over 96" high. that sure is a big pain. it is my personal transportation. i know i will take a big hit trading a 2006 hightop for a 2007 standard but there is not much else i can do. it would be worst to trade for another 2006 low top. if i turn it into a camper,toilet, stove, bed and etc. i can keep it in the rear yard, but that requires installing a driveway and getting permits etc. i will have to price it out and see.
Doug
I would search British truck modifiers for alarm information.
nearly all van floors have ridges, since it is an easy way for manufacturers to gain strength and rigidity for flat metal surfaces. to be sure, crawl under and look up.
you might want to think twice about removing the plywood floor: it is slip-proof and easy to sweep up. i kept it in my sprinter and when i put in place my camping conversion equipment, it works just fine for me. i know we're all different, but you might want to give it a double-think before removing. the height you will gain is only 1/2".
grasspress
is mobil-1 synthetic oil approved for the sprinter diesel?
i bought a purolater L25536 filter for 25$ but it hasn't arrived yet. does anyone know if this filter meets sprinter diesel specs?
and what, exactly, are the procedures for changing oil? is it basically the same as for other vehicles: drain oil, replace filter, replace oil. are there other issues a bit different from other vehicles that might foul-up a first-time oil change. is the oil filter cap to the right of the engine after opening the hood? and i suppose the oil drain plug is the small plug to the driver's side of the oil pan (no plug on the bottom of the oil pan as in most older vehicles).
this will be an oil change at 5000 miles; i'm just doing this as a boost to drain dirty oil from the break-in period. i plan to take the van to dealer for official oil changes for the duration of the warranty period.
thanks to any help.
grasspress
Get the tool for opening the filter housing and make sure to keep track of the "O" rings when you remove them and put the NEW ones back in the same places.
Fill with the recommended 9.5 quarts, then double check after the engine is run hot again.
KenB
2) Your purolator number looks OK according to nother website. That is a lot of $ for the filter element though. The D/C, Dodge, or Mercedes is a Mann (OEM) filter and they are generally not that expensive. My O-Reilly's quoted me $18.75 approx. for the filter element.
3) the oil change is not special as far as I know except that you will want the wrench for opening the filter housing and will have "O" rings to retrieve and to put the new ones in the same places as you put it back together. Filter on right, filler front and center, drain on oil pan, dipstick is normal (transmission, of course, is not).
4) If you are using the dealer for warranty period oil changes, then what is this oil change for? In case of a "boost" in oil clarity alone, then why use a new fliter? Why not just drain and refill? If you are unsure of the filter/o-rings, then you don't have that problem... Have the new filter handy just in case you are caught away from a Sprinter dealer when you need a change.
The oil filter is typically just fine for 15,000 miles in most modern cars. Many recommend 7,500 mile oil changes and a filter every other oil change... manufacturers recommend this and get LONG life out of this scheme. The Sprinter with ASSYST can easily go to 15,000 miles on an oil change under light use conditions. Short oil change intervals are a thing of the past - or for severe duty - like: gravel dump trucks and taxis.
My friends with the Cummins diesel Dodge trucks are getting their best mileage only after 20,000 miles (or 15,000 if you run them hard/pull trailers). Postponing complete break-in is not very helpful.
I still have my GMC Safari running great on long oil changes: 7,500 miles (filter every time), 120,000 miles and running great. doesn't use oil or leak. does eat alternators too often. Regular change of ALL filters, oil, air, fuel, etc. Tight space leads to early engine mount (rubber part) failure (100,000 miles). Always runs in the correct tmep range and the oil pressure is good.
KenB :shades:
The 10,000 mile oil change intervals result in 500,000 mile longevity in about 50% of the Sprinters in a fleet (Mercedes numbers for major failures in fleet conditions, not just engines). Engine life is reportedly near million mile levels at recommended service levels. At this rate, your chassis will be pretty beaten up (and major repairs done, many times) long before the engine gives up.
Of course we hear about failure of many parts in non-lubricated areas: sensors, injectors, harmonic balanacers, etc., but here I am talking about drive-train related problems. What we don't hear much of are internal oil-related problems... because modern oils, coupled with modern service levels and higher standards for filters and machining tolerances result in LONG life.
The truth; as far as it can be discovered; is that 3,000 mile oil change intervals are a royal SCAM, 5K miles or more should be normal, and really great engines like the Mercedes 2.7l inline Turbo diesel are quite likely to run a VERY long time on 10,000 or even 15,000 mile intervals. 3,000 mile oil changes go back to the days of non-filtered oil systems.
Your 5,000 mile plan is good, but even if you don't trust the ASSYST computer program, you'll be equally safe at 10,000 mile intervals. Chevron Delo 15W-40 is quite a bit thicker than it needs to be in Oklahoma, so I presume that you are in a Hot climate with no cold weather. We have cold weather here, so 0W-40 or 5W-40 is better, or in older vehicle we might use 10-40. In the summer we used to always use straight 30 weight (it was more resistant to break down because the viscosity modifiers were the most likely part of the oil to deteriorate in the summer Heat).
15W-40 is likely to give Slightly Lower mileage... hahaha Realistically, I have never been able to find a noticeable diff. in mileage between 10W-40 and 5W-30!
KenB :shades:
Any experience with Power Service Diesel Fuel Treatment (with Slickdiesel)? Advertised as anti-gelling, cetane boosting, lubricating, etc. Also supposed to be equivalent (fur running the engine) to 50/50 mix of no.1/no.2 Diesel?
My dad's diesel mechanic has recommended it for his Ford E350 Diesel van and it has certainly helped his mileage (2-3 MPG). This is not an advertisement, I just want to get feedback prior to trying this out for my Sprinter.
KenB :shades:
Under the drivers seat there is an Optional Equipment Fuse bank with numerous red wires. First of all is there a spare red wire somewhere? Do you run a new red wire all the way from the alternator? Do you splice a selected red wire.?
The Blue sea schematic also indicates an optional switch and LED. Are these suggested for the Sprinter second battery application?
Lastly, for practical purposes where specifically was the second battery installed?
At the base of the drivers seat and extending into the step well is a black bracket. Near the top it has a vertical slot and four screws, This looks a lot like a CB radio mike bracket.
The section that extends into the well has several punched hole patterns. One of the hole patterns does match that on a CB radio bracket.
I really don't think that is what it is for because the space is too small, even fo a small radio.
Any clues">
Power Service additive is $15 at O-Reilly's Auto Parts... here in Oklahoma they just carry the diesel fuel system cleaner and the anti-gelling, cetane boosting version , with Slickdiesel (TM?).
Thanks,
KenB :shades:
Adding the battery under the front passenger seat is great for some people, but you may want the power further back in your van if you are using it in the rear part of the vehicle (for RV, conversion, or mobile office pusposes).
The OPTIMA (TM?) type batterys are great because they basically can't spill. but as with all batteries, you MUST make sure that they NEVER short against anything metal whether attached to the vehicle or not.
KenB :shades:
What do you see for the price of the treatment? About 8 onces/tankful?
KenB :shades:
I just change oil,filters and also fuel filter.When I try to start my 2002 sprinter it didn't start.I looked at the Clear fuel line There is no fuel going in to engine.Can any one knows anything about this problem.
Thank You.
Using the second battery thread info, I'm adding a second battery, invertor for 110v. I think i'll have a shore power outlet and switch to change from onboard to shore power.
My Sprinter is 140" hightop. In th rear space I'm going to mount one 36" flush door and one 30 0r32 " door on hinges so they will fold up against the side walls, out of the way.
This platform will receive a queensize inflatable mattress.
I'm going to install a dorm refrigerator and microwave. I don't know about builtin's but am looking at stock closet stuff. there is a wide array of shelving and drawer units available.
I'm looking for sliding or vented windows for the rear or sliding door unit.
I don't intend to fancy it up to commercial RV standards but do want it to allow extended travel convenience. No carpet or fancy wall treatment. I am wondering about insulating the roof.
Just a few thoughts for discussion....
I removed the little screw on top of the filter and sucked the fuel with small hose and I know filled the filter.When I crank the engine I don't see any fuel going from that clear hose.I am recharging the battery now so it will crank the angine little better.(I tryed it so many times.)
http://www.trucknvans.com/Van_Windows_04_05_Sprinter_Van_s/772.htm
ask Jeff Kemp > jeff@motionwindows.com to email you more info. we'll be ordering from him.
my 97 powerstroke diesel e-350 gets 18 mpg on the highway loaded. my sprinter gets 21 mpg loaded. my PSD E-350's speedometer is accurate as per the radar machines (as compared to a 2003 honda, 97 s-10 pu and 1993 geo) so does this mean that if my speedometer is 3 MPH off my sprinter it is actually getting 18 MPG-- same as my ford diesel? hmmm? i guess i spent and extra $10k for a lighter duty, gutless van? not to mention it's fancy computer controlled assyt system that can count how many miles you need go before you're next service but can't figure out how fast the vehicle is going at 30 mph without a 10% error (radar says 27, speedo says 30. i did this five time one night)
don't get me wrong... i like this van a lot... but the level of quality that i thought i bought is just not what it's priced to be. my dealer totally misrepresented this vehicle to me and i'm upset about that. i ve been to the dealer six times in the last two months only to have the dealer just finally tell that they don't have anyone that really knows about these vans and can't fix my problems (2 broken lumbars, un-fixable side and rear door rattling, trans vibrations) and that my next service is going to cost me $500. hooraay five star chrysler dealers.
please, if anyone can get a chance do your own experiments with this please do. with a buddy's car, cell phones and cruise control you should be able to compare it with any other modern car.
any ideas on this???
anyhow, so i decide to fix it myslef and it turns out that there are two metal pintles (male)on the leading edge of the door that align into two sockets (female) that cause the door to be guided and held in place when it's closed. the solution is to put a little duct tape (just one layer, maybe two) around the pintle and dampens the vibration rattle and reduces the tolerance. the door is now totally quiet. six days of down town at the dealer then fixed in 2 minutes by an graphic artist.... WTF???
I got the same help in Oklahoma City... take it back to dealer multiple times for rattles and they apparently only "fixed" one rear door alignment problem... but fail to adjust the blocks on the inside of the rear door that keep the doors from moving around when you hit bumps... I found that and "fixed" them.
The Rear Door Block "fix" is certainly NOT permanent since the blocks apparently loosen over time and now the rear door rattles are back... perhaps I can fix them for another 6 months or so if I adjust them again.
The side door rattle problem was evident from the beginning, but the dealer made NO ATTEMPT to fix this. The rubbing of the alignment tabs (pintles) in the sockets was evident from the beginning and I pointed this out to the service manager and writer. had not thought of try in duct tape to reduce the clearance, how do you get it to stay stuck?
What I had thought of was trying to adjust the position of one (or both) of the tab/socket pairs so that they were in opposition to each other and would hold the door steady instead of letting the door jusmp up and down in both sockets.
It also seems apparent that the internal locking mechanism(s) in the side door are rattling on other components or against themselves...
KenB :confuse:
i'll be honest, my dodge dealer doesn't like me. i've brought my sprinter in 6 times to get various things fixed that shouldn't be breaking in the first two months: my seat adjustment broke twice, couldn't fix my door rattle on 6 attempts, lumbar seats failing after two weeks, the list goes on.... anyhow, while they're scratching their heads trying to fix my van for 4-6 hours, i'm not waiting like a docile hindu cow in the customer lounge am i... no,no,no! i wait for prospective sprinter buyers on the lot and try to help them understand what they're buying and give them the important info rather than listen to the saleman's big deep-tissue massage about the all new important buzz word: "fuel economy"... it's easy to assymilate the "too good to be true" phrase when it comes to this car if you ask me. the fact is that the salesman don't know anything about these specialty vehicles and neglect to mention very important stuff to prospective cargo van buyer like... speed control @ 83 mph (not so good on the two lane roads and big interstates with 75 mph limits), 15 inch load range E tires ($1000+++ set of tires anyone?), a cassete player in the base model (what other $40,000 car has tape player? so who has tapes!?! i heard in the passenger model you can get VHS system to go with it!!) and best of all the $500 service every 10,000 miles. by the way, my dealer told me that the first oil change was on them... "great!" i thought... hmm... little did i know that when it came time to do it they decided to give me just $19.95 off my first $500 oil and misc filter change. one must realize that there might be few folks out there that might buy one of these things for their own personal use but the majority of us use 'em for work similar to how one may have, over a hundred years ago, used a mule... to carry stuff!!! i just feel like i got snowed from day one and should have just bought a ford or chevy for half the price and at least i would've known what i could expect. it really urks me to know how much i'm paying for this "mule" when i compare it to say, my personal car. A high economy cargo van that actually "works" here in america is still a bit of a pipe dream if you ask me... that is, until toyota or nissan or mitsubishi get into the market here in the US.
i am however very greatful for this forum and the knowledgable folks in it. if it wasn't pooled information from other sprinter owners my dealer would haven't figured out that my trans fluid was low and it was causing a low speed grumble when cold... this could have cost me big in the future.
although my attitude may be rather negative about the van so far i do still like it a lot and i think the idea of it has potential to really be something great... i just wish i could've waited until that point to buy one.
by the way i bought it on june 6, 2006... does anyone think that could have made a difference (perhaps the devil is in my van?)
cheers!