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Electrical & Lights: INTERIOR LIGHTING
Service Bulletin Number: 3065
NHTSA Number: 10004598
Model Years Affected: 2002, 2003
Date of Bulletin: 12/2003
Bulletin Summary: CLOCK BULB REPLACEMENT. VARIOUS MODELS INCLUDING 2004 I35.
I don't know if you are aware of this, but there is a service bulletin for this problem. Infiniti should fix it for free. See Below:
Campaign Number: 03V455000
Dates Manufactured: 07/2001 to 06/2002
Number of Vehicles Affected: 630,000
Model Years Affected: 2002, 2003
Date Owner Notified: 12/2003
Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.
Consequence Summary: THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.
Recall Notes: NISSAN RECALL NO. R3022/INFINITI RECALL NO. R3021.CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION¿S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
I think the below Service bulletin applies to your problem. Infiniti should repair it free:
Drive Train: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
Campaign Number: 02V043000
Dates Manufactured: 07/2001 to 10/2001
Number of Vehicles Affected: 39,000
Model Years Affected: 2002
Date Owner Notified: 03/2002
Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM, THE STOPPER FOR THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WILL PREVENT EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT OF THE ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR. IF THE DRIVER APPLIES OVERLY EXCESSIVE FORCE TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE AT THE SAME TIME PUSHING IT TO THE RIGHT, THE PEDAL CAN "OVER TRAVEL" DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE PEDAL STOPPER.
Consequence Summary: THIS WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP TO COME ON AND THE ENGINE SPEED TO BE SEVERELY LIMITED. IF THIS OCCURS UNEXPECTEDLY, IT COULD LEAD TO A CRASH.
Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW ACCELERATOR PEDAL STOPPER. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN MARCH 11, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 800-662-6200.
Recall Notes: ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
Coolant fluid and thermostat – 3 years – Not enough warm vent air in winter. Malfunction thermostat might cause engine overheat.
Belts – 70,000 miles – Loose belts make squeaking noise, low battery charging. Broken belts, power steering quits, battery dies.
O2 sensors, platinum spark plugs, ignition coils – 60,000 miles – Check engine light on, misfire, losing power.
Transmission fluid and filter – 30,000 miles – Dirty fluid causes transmission overheat, slips, speed sensor problem.
Battery –6 years – Battery does not hold charge. Weak start, lost of power.
A simple battery replacement will cost only $109 at Sears instead of hundred more dollars if you bring the car to a dealership for trouble shooting. So, it depends on what mileage and what year of your car, one of the above symptom may likely to occur. My 2002 I35 at 120,000 miles has all of the above parts replaced. It runs like a charm. Better yet, I really avoid dealers rip off.
I love this car sooo much....
See you there!
there is some details for the problems what Infinity repair shop claims, that my car has.
1. LEFT FRONT lower arm needs to be replaced.
2. RIGHT FRONT lower arm needs to be replaced.
3. Tie ROD and Declined....??? have no idea what is that.
4. POWER STEERING leeks, the oil pump needs to be replaced.
5. BANJO BOLT, COPPER seal... i can't read the sign... those are small things.
6. Alignment.
All together 2300$.
I did not pay the money to the Infiniti dealership and after several days I went to another repair shop. They said that The only thing what they consider as a problem in my car is that there is very slow steering oil leek. And they said that this is very common in most of the second hand cars which are older than 5-6 years.
I was told that i can drive the car that way for a long time but i have to check often the liquid levels.
I wonder what to do?!?
They new that i have no experience with cars (with the mechanical part).
I asked the guy if he is sure that the oil pump is the reason... his answer was what else could be!?! And i asked him again if the pump is bad... he said that he doesn't know but that could be the problem?!? Well how come he is charging me 900$ to replace the steering oil pump if he is not sure that the pump is bad????
And what about the front LEFT and RIGHT lower ARMS??? I have never had any problems with the handling of the car. Is anyone out there who had problems with his front lower arms ???
Whenever I hear on the one hand "this is a disaster waiting to happen Mister!" and then on the other hand a wave of the hand and a "awww....no problem".....I sometimes think that the truth may lie somewhere in the middle.
The reason I say that is that neither side is presenting any detailed information to you.
Today i went to car repair shop again. I had hope that the guys there will find something wrong with my Infiniti I35.
I gave them the list with the problems which my car has according the Infiniti dealership. And it took them like 1 hour to do the inspection.
The results ware that there is no problem with the tie rods, the front lower arms ware in good shape and that there is very slow steering oil leak which is not a big problem for now.
I don't know who to believe. But one thing is for sure i will never ever go to the infiniti dealership again to change my oil or for whatever it is.
I think that they ware not earnest to me and try to make some more money of me. I'm so sorry to say that but that is the way i feel.
I like the advice you got from the car repair shop and I would continue to going to him. Though a couple of items
1) Power Steering - look for an oil spot in your driveway coming and going to the car. Check your PW fluid regularly. Listen for noise when turning the wheel (there should be none). This problem will get worse over time.
Before I bought my 2002 I35, the dealer put a little money into it and I have the invoice of work done.
1) “Replaced both front lower control Arm Bushings” ripped and leaking grease. Labor $150, parts $300.
2) “Replaced both Front Sway Bar Link” Both links worn and noisy. Labor $75,
Parts $80.
Both repairs appeared to me as items that were found via visual inspection, so if your guy didn’t see anything there you should be all set.
Basically, they performed the 60k inspection on my car and IMO, did things I would of never even considered or even asked to be checked. Therefore, I was OK with this work and many other things they did. (Of course they baked the repair cost into the purchase price, but overall I am very satisfied with the car and dealer buying experience)
I have been checking for oil spots in my drive way for a long time. There was not a single drip. At the repair shop they show me under need the car and i saw the spot where it was dripping. For 6 months, since i bought the car there was just little greasy spot.
I do not say that the dealership is bad. They sold me a great car for a great price. But if they ware not trying to make some money of me in the infiniti repair shop may be i was going to be 100% satisfied.
today i went to downtown of SLC to do some shopping. On my way back i stopped at Firestone service center and ask them to do complete alignment to my Infiniti I35. Also i asked them to inspect the car - suspension front and back, front lower arms, sway bars, tie rods, breaks and so on...
After i was told (at the infiniti dealership service) that my car is not in good shape and i have to repair many things such as: replace both front left and right arms, replace steering oil pump, tie rods and so on (2300$ all together)... I decided not to pay them and to go somewhere else. Since now i went to 2 other places and the Firestone service center was the third place where i went today.
You may think that I'm getting crazy about that, but believe me i was very scared after what i was told in the Infiniti service.
So back to the story... The inspection cost me 79.00$ + taxes but i had no choice. It turn out that the car is in very good condition no problems with any part of the suspension and there was no need even for much alignment.
This is may be my 5th post about this... I hope you guys can understand me... I'm very very ANGRY... I don't understand why they are doing that in the Infiniti dealership service?
How's your I35 running? Mine is running good...Check Engine Light is now off...it's a good thing! Someone told me that the issues that cause the CEL to go on are stored on board and may come back to haunt me (i.e. maybe at inspection time). Not going to worry about till Feb 2010 (inspection time).
my engine light is never been on. I have never had any warning lights coming on since I own the car.
When i bought the car i had to replace the cooling fan assembly (it was noisy). Also i change the transmission oil(flushed it), all the belts and filters. The car drives just great. I always try to find something wrong with it but so far no success.
2 days ago i went to test drive Honda Accord 2008. Just to see how it is. O boy... my infiniti I35 has much better ride. The Honda has some issues with the acceleration it gives you some but compare to I35 that is nothing. I drove also Mazda 3 2010 and BMW3 2002. Overall non of those cars are better than I35.
Primarily the front and back (both electronic), but also check the right front mount.
Hopefully, it just a sensor....
Oh and this is the second accident in less than a year...
http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&sit- - eid=55&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2453&groupid=51840&subgroupid=8764&componentid=0&ma- - ke=14&model=I35&year=2002&graphicID=3821620&callout=9&catalogid=3&displayCatalog- - id=0
If you can follow the above link, check out the diagram and note part nos. 13 and 14. I'm also very curious about these "pads" and wonder if they may have something to do with the noise. I need to check the service manual and/or crawl under to get a better idea. I'm at least going to replace the right front mount first since it can be done separately from the front and rear mounts. I'll report back on the results.
Incidently, there is a company out there (Mission Trading) that makes a solid rubber mount for the front only, and I half wonder if using that mount might not help. So far I have not found anyone who has used it to get some feedback, and they are expensive and NO fun to replace, so it would be real labor of love to try both.
Click this Seafoam link for more info
Just an update from post #483. I did order the right front engine mount from
http://www.infinitipartsusa.com
for $114.48 and installed it myself in less than an hour, using nothing but common tools:
14mm sockets
Mutiple 3/8" socket drivers
18" breaker bar
small floor jack and block of wood large enough to support under the oil pan
a couple of 3/8" wobble extensions (from Harbor Freight)
The old mount was sagging by over a full inch. The new mount basically restored the correct alignment of the engine on the right side. The loose clunking sound that I used to hear when going over rough roads or dips, short bumps, etc. is now completely gone. The engine noise level inside the car is considerably lower now when first starting in the morning. Definitely worth taking a look at the right front mount if you are experiencing the "clunking" sound.
Haven't posted before. Have a 2002 I35t with 83K. Black/Tan. Great car for my commute (35 miles each way) even in Chicago winters.
Recently did all 4 brakes and rotors and now am getting a whirring electric motor sound on start up and stop. Only hear it now that the weather has been nice and windows are down.
I read a post a few years old that said it may be the ABS system doing self-diagnostics. Any opinions out there? Do I need to worry?
Thanks for any and all input!
I just noticed that the Air Con system no longer works. I can turn it on (all lights come on), turn it hot or cold, but nothing flows from the vent.
Could this be attributed to something the glass technician did during the repair?
Thanks to all who contributed.
I reported this before and it is having this grinding noise in cold weather. Only turning to the right. It disappears about a few mins. Driver side front bearing was replaced with no luck. I hope this is it. I will call them up and ask them to check for "Collapse Engine Mount". Mine is doing it now since it is about 40 to 50 F in the Midwest lately. I will give it a try.
Please report back how it goes after a while. It is a great car except this stupid noise. Did it cause any danger or other damages if the engine mount is "collasped"?
Thanks
I've had the codes read by my local mechanic and he can't identify the trouble and says I should go to the dealer. The dealer wants $130 to do a diagnostic trouble shoot even before they do a repair. Sounds awfully high just ot read a machine code.
I'm thinking of just replacing the O2's and see what happens. Anything else I should change while I'm at it?
During one of its off periods the car passed the Arizona emissions test. Someone else suggested cleaning the MAF sensor with a commercial product. Will try that next.