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Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 59fan59fan Member Posts: 5
    Hi, Don't know if you still have the problem, There is a service bulletin out for this:
    :)
    Electrical & Lights: INTERIOR LIGHTING
    Service Bulletin Number: 3065
    NHTSA Number: 10004598
    Model Years Affected: 2002, 2003
    Date of Bulletin: 12/2003
    Bulletin Summary: CLOCK BULB REPLACEMENT. VARIOUS MODELS INCLUDING 2004 I35.
  • 59fan59fan Member Posts: 5
    Hello,

    I don't know if you are aware of this, but there is a service bulletin for this problem. Infiniti should fix it for free. See Below:

    Campaign Number: 03V455000
    Dates Manufactured: 07/2001 to 06/2002
    Number of Vehicles Affected: 630,000
    Model Years Affected: 2002, 2003
    Date Owner Notified: 12/2003
    Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.

    Consequence Summary: THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.

    Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.

    Recall Notes: NISSAN RECALL NO. R3022/INFINITI RECALL NO. R3021.CUSTOMERS CAN ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION¿S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
  • 59fan59fan Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I think the below Service bulletin applies to your problem. Infiniti should repair it free:

    Drive Train: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
    Campaign Number: 02V043000
    Dates Manufactured: 07/2001 to 10/2001
    Number of Vehicles Affected: 39,000
    Model Years Affected: 2002
    Date Owner Notified: 03/2002
    Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM, THE STOPPER FOR THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WILL PREVENT EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT OF THE ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR. IF THE DRIVER APPLIES OVERLY EXCESSIVE FORCE TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE AT THE SAME TIME PUSHING IT TO THE RIGHT, THE PEDAL CAN "OVER TRAVEL" DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE PEDAL STOPPER.

    Consequence Summary: THIS WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP TO COME ON AND THE ENGINE SPEED TO BE SEVERELY LIMITED. IF THIS OCCURS UNEXPECTEDLY, IT COULD LEAD TO A CRASH.

    Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW ACCELERATOR PEDAL STOPPER. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN MARCH 11, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 800-662-6200.

    Recall Notes: ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    Only regular change of oil, oil filter and air filter is not enough. No car can run well when other parts are getting old. It’s a mistake to wait until the car acting up to bring to a service center. One might spend a lot more money for diagnostic and repair. The following schedule of part replacement should be carried out otherwise trouble will soon appear:

    Coolant fluid and thermostat – 3 years – Not enough warm vent air in winter. Malfunction thermostat might cause engine overheat.

    Belts – 70,000 miles – Loose belts make squeaking noise, low battery charging. Broken belts, power steering quits, battery dies.

    O2 sensors, platinum spark plugs, ignition coils – 60,000 miles – Check engine light on, misfire, losing power.

    Transmission fluid and filter – 30,000 miles – Dirty fluid causes transmission overheat, slips, speed sensor problem.

    Battery –6 years – Battery does not hold charge. Weak start, lost of power.

    A simple battery replacement will cost only $109 at Sears instead of hundred more dollars if you bring the car to a dealership for trouble shooting. So, it depends on what mileage and what year of your car, one of the above symptom may likely to occur. My 2002 I35 at 120,000 miles has all of the above parts replaced. It runs like a charm. Better yet, I really avoid dealers rip off.
  • myi35ridemyi35ride Member Posts: 3
    Thanks 59fan, :)
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Member Posts: 16
    Update... CEL went out a little over a week ago and is still out. Wondering if it has to do with using premium gas (which is recommended)? Being a fugel guy, I'm always trying to save a buck. I guess I'll start to use the premium from now on (or at least till the CEL issues returns).
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjORry6z24w&feature=related

    I love this car sooo much....
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
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    See you there!
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi everyone,

    there is some details for the problems what Infinity repair shop claims, that my car has.

    1. LEFT FRONT lower arm needs to be replaced.
    2. RIGHT FRONT lower arm needs to be replaced.
    3. Tie ROD and Declined....??? have no idea what is that.
    4. POWER STEERING leeks, the oil pump needs to be replaced.
    5. BANJO BOLT, COPPER seal... i can't read the sign... those are small things.
    6. Alignment.

    All together 2300$.

    I did not pay the money to the Infiniti dealership and after several days I went to another repair shop. They said that The only thing what they consider as a problem in my car is that there is very slow steering oil leek. And they said that this is very common in most of the second hand cars which are older than 5-6 years.

    I was told that i can drive the car that way for a long time but i have to check often the liquid levels.

    I wonder what to do?!?
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    One more thing. When i talked to the infiniti repair shop about the details of that list i realized very interesting things.

    They new that i have no experience with cars (with the mechanical part).

    I asked the guy if he is sure that the oil pump is the reason... his answer was what else could be!?! And i asked him again if the pump is bad... he said that he doesn't know but that could be the problem?!? Well how come he is charging me 900$ to replace the steering oil pump if he is not sure that the pump is bad????

    And what about the front LEFT and RIGHT lower ARMS??? I have never had any problems with the handling of the car. Is anyone out there who had problems with his front lower arms ???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I'd certainly get a second opinion on this stuff...if we're talking about a little crack in a rubber bushing that's one thing, but if we are talking about a tie rod ready to fall off, we are talking about your life.

    Whenever I hear on the one hand "this is a disaster waiting to happen Mister!" and then on the other hand a wave of the hand and a "awww....no problem".....I sometimes think that the truth may lie somewhere in the middle.

    The reason I say that is that neither side is presenting any detailed information to you.
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi everyone,

    Today i went to car repair shop again. I had hope that the guys there will find something wrong with my Infiniti I35.

    I gave them the list with the problems which my car has according the Infiniti dealership. And it took them like 1 hour to do the inspection.

    The results ware that there is no problem with the tie rods, the front lower arms ware in good shape and that there is very slow steering oil leak which is not a big problem for now.

    I don't know who to believe. But one thing is for sure i will never ever go to the infiniti dealership again to change my oil or for whatever it is.

    I think that they ware not earnest to me and try to make some more money of me. I'm so sorry to say that but that is the way i feel.
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I like the advice you got from the car repair shop and I would continue to going to him. Though a couple of items…

    1) Power Steering - look for an oil spot in your driveway coming and going to the car. Check your PW fluid regularly. Listen for noise when turning the wheel (there should be none). This problem will get worse over time.

    Before I bought my 2002 I35, the dealer put a little money into it and I have the invoice of work done.

    1) “Replaced both front lower control Arm Bushings”… ripped and leaking grease. Labor $150, parts $300.

    2) “Replaced both Front Sway Bar Link”…Both links worn and noisy. Labor $75,
    Parts $80.

    Both repairs appeared to me as items that were found via visual inspection, so if your guy didn’t see anything there you should be all set.

    Basically, they performed the 60k inspection on my car and IMO, did things I would of never even considered or even asked to be checked. Therefore, I was OK with this work and many other things they did. (Of course they baked the repair cost into the purchase price, but overall I am very satisfied with the car and dealer buying experience)
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi bostonguy1 and thanks for your opinion,

    I have been checking for oil spots in my drive way for a long time. There was not a single drip. At the repair shop they show me under need the car and i saw the spot where it was dripping. For 6 months, since i bought the car there was just little greasy spot.

    I do not say that the dealership is bad. They sold me a great car for a great price. But if they ware not trying to make some money of me in the infiniti repair shop may be i was going to be 100% satisfied.
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi everyone,

    today i went to downtown of SLC to do some shopping. On my way back i stopped at Firestone service center and ask them to do complete alignment to my Infiniti I35. Also i asked them to inspect the car - suspension front and back, front lower arms, sway bars, tie rods, breaks and so on...

    After i was told (at the infiniti dealership service) that my car is not in good shape and i have to repair many things such as: replace both front left and right arms, replace steering oil pump, tie rods and so on (2300$ all together)... I decided not to pay them and to go somewhere else. Since now i went to 2 other places and the Firestone service center was the third place where i went today.

    You may think that I'm getting crazy about that, but believe me i was very scared after what i was told in the Infiniti service.

    So back to the story... The inspection cost me 79.00$ + taxes but i had no choice. It turn out that the car is in very good condition no problems with any part of the suspension and there was no need even for much alignment.

    This is may be my 5th post about this... I hope you guys can understand me... I'm very very ANGRY... I don't understand why they are doing that in the Infiniti dealership service?
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Member Posts: 16
    So ferdi1,

    How's your I35 running? Mine is running good...Check Engine Light is now off...it's a good thing! Someone told me that the issues that cause the CEL to go on are stored on board and may come back to haunt me (i.e. maybe at inspection time). Not going to worry about till Feb 2010 (inspection time).
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Member Posts: 16
    HI bostonguy1,

    my engine light is never been on. I have never had any warning lights coming on since I own the car.

    When i bought the car i had to replace the cooling fan assembly (it was noisy). Also i change the transmission oil(flushed it), all the belts and filters. The car drives just great. I always try to find something wrong with it but so far no success.

    2 days ago i went to test drive Honda Accord 2008. Just to see how it is. O boy... my infiniti I35 has much better ride. The Honda has some issues with the acceleration it gives you some but compare to I35 that is nothing. I drove also Mazda 3 2010 and BMW3 2002. Overall non of those cars are better than I35.
  • pethelmanpethelman Member Posts: 20
    This IDENTICAL problem is popping up a lot. 99% sure it is the engine mounts. My 2002 does the same thing. Try this... in an empty parking lot, pop the hood, start the car and back up. It's even worse if you have the wheel hard left while you do this. While rolling backwards, maybe 5 mph or less, go ahead and drop it into Drive (don't touch the brake, let the transmission do the work). Watch the engine go clunk, clunk, clunk as it moves excessively and bottoms out on the rear mount. The exact same noise you are hearing when you hit potholes, dips, rumbles in the road etc. Test 2: Put the e-brake on and left-foot the brake while you do a quick rev with the car in gear. The motor will torque over violently and CLUNK on the motor mount. The front and rear mounts are electronic, containing some magic piezo-electric fluid that changes viscosity when charged. If they fail, they are just too soft and the motor becomes heavily under-damped, making the quick suspension movements result in the same CLUNK. Not only is my rear mount bad, the right front mount looks bad as well (bulging at the top and dry rotted). You can get the OEM parts online about 20% less than a local dealer, and should be about a 3 hour labor charge. Not cheap, but it seems to be the solution.
  • pethelmanpethelman Member Posts: 20
    Check the motor mounts. Most likely the electronic mounts (front and/or bad) have failed in the "soft" mode and are allowing excessing engine movement while driving. I'm suspecting this can even cause the grinding when going around turns due to some sort of axle alignment issue.
  • pethelmanpethelman Member Posts: 20
    Motor mounts
    Primarily the front and back (both electronic), but also check the right front mount.
  • 59fan59fan Member Posts: 5
    So Thats what that low thudding/clunking sound is coming from for real?. My 2002 I35 has 58k on it and it makes the thud sound (front right suspension) when I go over ruts and potholes. I took it into Frontier Infiniti Dealer for my 60k service here in San Jose, and they told me that the motor mount was going out that was causing this problem. I did not have them fix it until I got a second opinion. Should I just forgoe the second opinion from a different mechanic, and take this forums advice. The noise does not effect the steering or driving abilities of the car, just really annoying. BTW, This has to be one of the BEST cars I have ever owned. Just wish that the stereo/cruise controls on the steering wheel were illuminated at night, hard to use them when its dark. Just have to really remember what button is what. ;)
  • chuck_jchuck_j Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2004 Infiniti I35 and yesterday I let a relative of mine borrow my car to go to a job interview and she got into an accident. There is front end damage (not heavy) just the bumper really,but now the the "check engine, slip,and tcs" lights are all on, which never ever came off since I've owned this car. Now on my way from work, the car stalled.... twice... What do you guys think can be the matter. Im taking the vehicle to get an estimate on the damage tomorrow...

    Hopefully, it just a sensor....

    Oh and this is the second accident in less than a year...
  • pethelmanpethelman Member Posts: 20
    Yeah, I don't understand why the I35 is having this problem. I also have a 96 i30t (5 speed) and a 98 i30. The 98 has the same motor mount configuration, 2 electronic front and back, with passive on the right side. They look nearly identical to the 2002 i35 setup. However, when comparing the two, the 98 had much less engine movement when revving the engine with the brake on. It certainly had none of the bottoming out clunking motion that I observed with the i35. Obviously the 3.5 has much more power, and maybe that is contributing to the mounts wearing out sooner. Incidently, the 96 does not have electronic mounts, and the motor is very stiff compared to the other two (also have more vibration at idle, which may be the tradeoff).

    http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&sit- - eid=55&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2453&groupid=51840&subgroupid=8764&componentid=0&ma- - ke=14&model=I35&year=2002&graphicID=3821620&callout=9&catalogid=3&displayCatalog- - id=0

    If you can follow the above link, check out the diagram and note part nos. 13 and 14. I'm also very curious about these "pads" and wonder if they may have something to do with the noise. I need to check the service manual and/or crawl under to get a better idea. I'm at least going to replace the right front mount first since it can be done separately from the front and rear mounts. I'll report back on the results.

    Incidently, there is a company out there (Mission Trading) that makes a solid rubber mount for the front only, and I half wonder if using that mount might not help. So far I have not found anyone who has used it to get some feedback, and they are expensive and NO fun to replace, so it would be real labor of love to try both.
  • jhayes9835jhayes9835 Member Posts: 20
    Sometimes my car will start and run fine. Other times, after it has sat for a while, it will start up and idle very rough or it will not start at all. I checked the vacumn hoses and could not see any problems. I also replaced the air flow sensor with a used one. It ran fine but I still had the same problem after it sat awhile. My daughter depends on this vehicle to get back and forth to work, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • jlgberkeleyjlgberkeley Member Posts: 1
    I know this sounds weird but check your seat belts. My wife had the same problem and they replaced two seats, so i went with her on the way to the dealership and we started hearing the noise, i looked back and notice one of the back seat belts was loose and tightened it and the noise went away...guess i should have gone with her the first time to the dealership.
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    Have you tried the use of Seafoam. I found it really help in starting and idle.
    Click this Seafoam link for more info
  • jhayes9835jhayes9835 Member Posts: 20
    I will try the Seafoam and see if there is any improvement. If that does not help out, any other ideas?
  • pethelmanpethelman Member Posts: 20
    2002 I35 (122K miles)
    Just an update from post #483. I did order the right front engine mount from

    http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

    for $114.48 and installed it myself in less than an hour, using nothing but common tools:
    14mm sockets
    Mutiple 3/8" socket drivers
    18" breaker bar
    small floor jack and block of wood large enough to support under the oil pan
    a couple of 3/8" wobble extensions (from Harbor Freight)

    The old mount was sagging by over a full inch. The new mount basically restored the correct alignment of the engine on the right side. The loose clunking sound that I used to hear when going over rough roads or dips, short bumps, etc. is now completely gone. The engine noise level inside the car is considerably lower now when first starting in the morning. Definitely worth taking a look at the right front mount if you are experiencing the "clunking" sound.
  • jhayes9835jhayes9835 Member Posts: 20
    Somewhere along the line somebody recommended cleaning the maf with some crc maf sensor cleaner. I purchased a can from autozone and tried it. At first it ran rough and the check engine light came on. The more I ran it, the betteq it got. Now it runs like a champ. I guess the computer had to relearn it and now the check engine light is off and it is as smooth as the day I got it. Somebody also recommended using seafoam. I bought a can as well, but I have not used it yet. I will wait awhile before I add it to the fuel. Thanks for the help. I will keep you posted on any changes.
  • jhayes9835jhayes9835 Member Posts: 20
    Update. Ever since cleaning the maf sensor with the crc maf sensor cleaner, my car has never ran this good. After spending nearly 2800.00 on repairs it took a 7.00 spray cleaner to fix the problem. Unbelievable! My next tank of gas I am going to add the Seafoam additive. Thanks again.
  • jhayes9835jhayes9835 Member Posts: 20
    After spending nearly 2800.00 on repairs with the parts changers, I happened upon a post about maf sensor cleaner. I decided to invest 7.00 on a can of maf sensor cleaner purchased at my local autozone. I removed the maf sensor and sprayed the sensor from both sides. I re-installed the sensor. It only took about 30 minutes to do the whole job. The car started and ran rough, the check engine light came on. After driving around for awhile it started to smooth out and run great. The check engine light went out and I tell you, the car is running like a new car. I am assuming that the computer had to relearn the maf sensor? I don't know. I do know this, it has been a little over a week and the car is running great. I hope this helps anyone with similar problems. Cheers!
  • pokerchips69pokerchips69 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    Haven't posted before. Have a 2002 I35t with 83K. Black/Tan. Great car for my commute (35 miles each way) even in Chicago winters.
    Recently did all 4 brakes and rotors and now am getting a whirring electric motor sound on start up and stop. Only hear it now that the weather has been nice and windows are down.
    I read a post a few years old that said it may be the ABS system doing self-diagnostics. Any opinions out there? Do I need to worry?
    Thanks for any and all input!
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    If the sound comes from the belts then either they are loosen or old. When weather is a little cold and humid, they make squeaking sound. I used a belt dressing spray bottle from an Advance Auto Parts store to spray on both belts and pulleys. They became very quiet after a couple days of driving.
  • pb13pb13 Member Posts: 3
    Hoping the experts here can help save lots of time trying to explain at the Dealer. 2004 I35, new battery, 87k miles, runs great once started. Full turn of key elicits a "click" with all panel lights displaying but no turning over. Click only. However, it is NOT the click sound when you have a dead battery. When I turn the key back and try to start again, it eventually will fire like normal... as if nothing were wrong. Now, I'm turning the key in rapid succession 10 or 12 times (this morning) before it will go, and it's now happening at every start... not just infrequently as it has over the last 40K miles or so. Previously, it was pronounced when the car has been idle for a while or on a decline parked position. Computer checks at 40K revealed nothing and the dealer was stumped. ANY advice would be helpful, as I may be stuck at my work parking lot tonight. (NOTE: When I've had a dead battery in the past, I had the "click" followed by the auto seat adjustment (or sound similar); this click is different, as in nothing happens post-click--it either fires, or it doesn't.)
  • bbygyrlkbbygyrlk Member Posts: 2
    HI I have the same rattling noise on accelleration. I have a 2003 I35 and it has been making that noise since I got it in 2006. I was told it was and octane issue as well, and I tried 93 for a while, and just like you, my car got better, however when gas prices went up I went back to 87 and now the rattle is back..... But now I have bigger issues, My car keeps shutting off... I was told it is a camshaft sensor gone bad... the only thing is they don't know which one so they want me to replace both....
  • bbygyrlkbbygyrlk Member Posts: 2
    I have the same prob and need an answer.... the thing is now it just shuts off while I am driving, it happend on the highway yesterday and I was so scared, I have a 4yr old that is always with me so now this is a hazard,,,,
  • ddscoddsco Member Posts: 1
    I do not know if you already fixed the problem. If not, it might be the bad starter relay. Let me know. Good luck.
  • snowace76snowace76 Member Posts: 3
    Have you found a fix? I just got my 04 I35 back from being tested for a system drain, battery cable issues etc. and they found nothing wrong with it. it first happened to me when my auto light switch drained the battery one night. woke up to hearing my car making a loud clicking noise without anyone in the car! since then, intermittently has "teased" me that it won't start! sounds exactly like your issue.
  • pb13pb13 Member Posts: 3
    At least for now, the car is fixed. And, likely not the answer folks are looking for... as it resulted in a trip to the dealer and a new $700 starter. The explanation to me was some about the contacts of the starter relay (as referenced above). Because my choices were few, I acquiesced to the dealer and all "appears" to be good. Will keep everyone up to date. Thanks for the responses.
  • mik5423mik5423 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 04 I35 with 67,000 mi. I'm having this exact same problem.I've had the struts checked and the mechanic said they were fine.I visually checked the front and rear mounts. they look o.k. the drivers side mount I can't even see.The passenger side is easy to get to.It looks like it might be sagging a little.I was wondering seeing this mount has round plastic disks on either side of the mount.Is the top of the mount suppose to be even with the top of the disk.Mine is below the disk by about 1/2". I'm having trouble determining if this is normal or not.
  • mik5423mik5423 Member Posts: 7
    I have had the same issue with the rattling sound. ( spark knock) I have found that CHEVRON mid-grade gas tends to quiet it down. Also had the same problem with the cam position sensor.The car just shuts off while your driving.I have a code reader and it told me which sensor was bad.The sensor cost $90.00 and I replaced it myself in 5 min.You can buy a code reader these days for about $40.00.Mine cost me $70.00 but I bought it a couple of years ago.I also bought the INFINITI manual on cd for this car and it also gives resistance checks for these sensors.So you can tell which one is bad as well.You need to go to a different mechanic.
  • mik5423mik5423 Member Posts: 7
    Just to add to my previous message. There was a recall on the cam position sensors. Something about the solder flux that was used during manufacturing of them. I think the recall was only on the 01 and 02 I35.I cant remember.You should mention this though if your taking your car to the dealer for repairs.Obviously there was a problem with the 03 and 04 models as well.They should recall all of them.
  • snowace76snowace76 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply and info. I'm fortunate that I work at a university where they have a 2-year Auto Tech program. They kept the car on a monitor overnight with the auto light switch on as they thought it was a system drain. Found nothing wrong there and nothing wrong with any cables. The instructors were baffled and figured the next step would be to tear apart the starter. So far, no more trouble but at least I know where they have to look next! Thanks again.
  • shayne67shayne67 Member Posts: 1
    My I35 had a broken driver's side power window replaced recently due to a break in. The glass repairman fixed it perfectly and even got the power up/down mechanism working again.

    I just noticed that the Air Con system no longer works. I can turn it on (all lights come on), turn it hot or cold, but nothing flows from the vent.

    Could this be attributed to something the glass technician did during the repair?
  • npriestnpriest Member Posts: 13
    Hello, again. Finally have a possible resolution to the grinding noise when turning right. I had Infinity check the wheel bearing on 2 separate occasions and they told me both times that it was fine. However, my front engine mount had collapsed and apparently many times THIS is the source for the grinding noise when turning or bearing right. Hoping for a miracle, I authorized the replacement of the engine mount and so far (fingers crossed) the noise has been eliminated. Granted, it's still temperate weather here and the noise was worse in extreme cold, but I believe this was the cure. If you're still having issues with the grinding, make sure your mechanics evaluate your engine mounts for collapse. Oh, by the way, it's a $500 job at the dealer. Ouch.

    Thanks to all who contributed.
  • myrcgaragemyrcgarage Member Posts: 18
    Wow, good timing to see this post. I was going to make an appointment to my dealer since my 2005 I35 extended warranty will expire in May 2010. I need them to get it fixed before that time. Thank you so much.

    I reported this before and it is having this grinding noise in cold weather. Only turning to the right. It disappears about a few mins. Driver side front bearing was replaced with no luck. I hope this is it. I will call them up and ask them to check for "Collapse Engine Mount". Mine is doing it now since it is about 40 to 50 F in the Midwest lately. I will give it a try.

    Please report back how it goes after a while. It is a great car except this stupid noise. Did it cause any danger or other damages if the engine mount is "collasped"?

    Thanks
  • mik5423mik5423 Member Posts: 7
    Replaced the passenger side engine mount.I found it online for$86.00. It took @ hour to change.On the bracket for the mount theres a bolt that face down and one that faces up.I had to take the wheel off and take the plastic fender well piece off to get up in there to get the bolt out that faces up.Other than this it wasnt a bad job.The old mount didnt really look that bad to me,but the new mount definitely corrected the problem.No more thud noise up front when hitting bumps.Problem solved.
  • npmnpm Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone replaced the driver side arm rest on a 2002 I35? Mine is torn and I would like to replace it but need some advice as to how to remove and replace this item. Any suggestions appreciated.
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Member Posts: 16
    Hi, I have a I35, the check engine will come on for a couple of weeks and then shut off. Seems to go on when I jump on the gas pedal (I'm betting it's the O2 sensor).
    I've had the codes read by my local mechanic and he can't identify the trouble and says I should go to the dealer. The dealer wants $130 to do a diagnostic trouble shoot even before they do a repair. Sounds awfully high just ot read a machine code.
    I'm thinking of just replacing the O2's and see what happens. Anything else I should change while I'm at it?
  • valovalo Member Posts: 7
    Have the same problem with the same car. Same thing with my local mechanic and same thing with the dealer. Put a dose of Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank at the suggestion of someone else here and the light went out for several months, then back on again. Did that a second time with no result. Scheduled it with the dealer and the light went off the day it was due for testing.

    During one of its off periods the car passed the Arizona emissions test. Someone else suggested cleaning the MAF sensor with a commercial product. Will try that next.
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