Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

cbuzzanca · June 2005

My 2001 Excursion (V-10) is sitting at the mechanic right now since it won't pass the emissions test. The tech said the truck is in perfect condition and is baffled as to why it won't pass. Anybody?

agoodwin · June 2005

Have your buddy run another V-10 and this will give you a year to figure the problem with yours.

boyer258 · June 2005

You mention the caliper pins were frozen. I have a 2001 X and replaced the caliper bracket and pins last July. They have frozen again. Do you have any recommendations on how to free the pins. I would prefer not to have to buy another setup (around $80). Also, I now know its important to use some good synthetic grease on the pins.

michellepdsi · June 2005

my 2003 excursion eddie bauer edition...............has had the rotors and brakes changed twice (its the whole warping, vibration thing) this last time i was at 35,450 and it is at 40,000 now and desperately needs to be done again. my mechanic is at wits end replacing these rotors.............along with myself. if you happen to hear of the for sure fix i would like to be part of it. not sure about the ceramic pads or the crynoics ????? but i am tired of vibrating to a stop!

bigpainford · June 2005

I own a 2001 ford Excursion limited. And form what I'm reading I'm not the only one with a lemon. I have changed my brakes about every 15,000 miles for they wear out or warp. nothing helps. pins freeze and have to replace them almost every time. Truck has 83,000 miles right now and the hits just keep on coming. Inside lights stay on and so does the door ajar sign. I keep blowing a fuse when I try to take overdrive off. when using 4x4, it doesn't always engage and when it does it won't disengage then I hear and feel this horrendous thump when it finally decides to disengage. passanger door locks don't work and back key lock is non operable from outside with key. And now as of late I have picked up this nasty and terrible vibration when I go past 60mph, I've changed the brakes, the steering stabilizer shock, the u joints all seem to be fine but when I take a curve or slow down it just gets worse I'm pretty handy but I'm baffled by this vibration I'm told it could be the tires are off balance or that the steering arm might be bad. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated since I'm no money bags and in the process of buying a house so I cannot afford the expensive dealer bill. Thank you. :lemon:

agoodwin · June 2005

Well the Ex brakes are still feeling real good at 9000 miles. I had the Cryogentics done to a Ford set of rotors. Put them on and they are good and smooth. This is my 3rd Excursion I've have had. Every one of the previous vehicles had problems. This worked for me .
Cya later Andrew

dland · June 2005

2000 Ex 7.3 Turbo Diesel, 125,000 miles --- engine stops without turning ignition off but restarts immediately using key --- frequency = say, once a week - usually stops while sitting at traffic light ---does not run rough --- no other apparent problems... anyone with similar problem/diagnosis --- thanks --- dland, dallas, tx

bigpainford · June 2005

Well, guess what! As some of you might have expected. Heard from Ford Motor Co. today and it turns out. Ford Motor Company's Customer assistance was of no assistance at all. Instead the lady there went as far as telling me that. " If the mechanics at the dealer told me that it is my driving that is causing all my problems, then that must be my answer, for they are trained and certified technicians." Also she told me that since my X has 82,000 mi. That I must pay for any repairs done to it since my truck is out of warranty. Wait. My story doesn't end there!. I asked her. How come all you people on this forum seem to have the exact same problems with your trucks as I am, no matter what the year is whether it is a 2000 or a 2004 Gas or Diesel ? Her answer! " We do not support Web sites' comments or complaints." Well now. I thought to myself and told her. Why then, wouldn't it be nice if the reporters at the Auto Insider part of The Detroit News or Detroit Free Press were to read and hear all the problems we all seem to have with our trucks and that The great company that made them, basically washes their hands off of them! Her response! "That's another issue and we do not support Web sites comments as I stated earlier Sir" So. My dilemma now. What do I do about this situation. Do I sit on my thumbs and fork out a boat load of money for the repairs or do I ask all of you with similar problems to call Ford and try and get them to do something about this? I hope is the latter because frankly I don't think any of you want to shell out thousands of Dollars on unnecessary repairs that Ford should have taken care of with their design of these already expensive vehicles. And I hope that you may want to take the time to write to the News about your problems. Maybe a little bit of embarrassment may change their minds at Ford and they'll help us want to keep driving our Excursions for a long time. My family has driven Fords since 1951 and it is a shame that Ford customer service would take this stance. The number to Customer Service in Detroit Michigan is 1-800-392-3673. You will need your vehicles ID or VIN number when calling Ford Customer Service. Thanks for your time reading this. BIGPAIN FORD

jord · June 2005

Any luck solving this? My 2000 Excursion Limited diesel has the exact same problem!

striper063 · June 2005

I once owned a 97 F250 7.3 POWERSTROKE that would CUT OUT at any time or speed. (A very scary two days) I asked one of the mechanics at work (we run Internationals in our Ford newspaper
delivery trucks) and he immediately said it was the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. He went to stock, got a sensor, gave me a socket and ratchet, told me it was LOCATED on the FRONT OF THE BLOCK, and ten minutes later that motor never cut out again. I hope this helps... Marshfield, Massachusetts.

bksinc · July 2005

I have an 01 Limited and at 93k it started doing the same thing, Ford honored the 100k warranty on the motor and $100 later and a new CMP valve/sensor it was fixed. Good Luck w/yours..

jnewsome1 · July 2005

I had a 2001 excursion which bounced like a horse. Someone told me exactly what to do buying the parts right from Ford. Which I did and it worked great. I have a 2005 now with the 6.0 diesel. Any suggestions on the suspension and super chip [ if available ]. Thanks, John

abqx · July 2005

I have an 01 XLT X and apparently am learning the hard way regarding the warping rotors. Just had the factory rotors turned and ceramic pads installed. Seams to be breaking much better, but how can you tell if the rotors are warping? Vibration?

Another question, when going over speed bumps or deep depressions, feels like the front end is bottoming out in the shocks. There doesn't appear to be any fluid leaking from the shocks...any suggestions?

xonvldz · July 2005

I have previously leased a '00 Excursion 4x4 6.8L Limited, and am now the proud owner of a '01 same make/model. I surpassed 50k in both vehicles and have noticed a few common problems such as slow window motors and definitely the object sensors in the rear of the vehicle. Both of these, and I know from experience, are covered under any extended warranty you might have purchased with your vehicle. Just recently however, I noticed with my '01 that while making right/left turns and applying the gas the steering seems to "stick" in place and I need to apply extra force to get it to straighten out. Usually the proper technique is to give it gas while coming out of a turn and it will straighten out almost naturally, but with my situation it will "stick" a few times a day. Straight ahead and lane changing are no problem, Ive just only begun to notice this change with right/left turns. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

dweehunt · July 2005

I have a 2003 Ford Eddie Bauer Excursion 4X4 6.0 diesel. Ever since we took delivery of this vehicle it has been a financial nightmare. Since delivery in January 2003 we have had brake problems, injector replaces and computer problems. That was in the first six months. Our dealer told us to have patience because it was one of the first off the assembly line and bugs might need to be worked out. Well the bugs continued. We traveled and tow extensively between Minnesota and New Mexico. And over the course of ownership of this vehicle we made sure it was serviced by a Ford authorized service shop only. Every trip we made it ended up in the shop with some kind of malfunction. However, they always told us it was not related to the last problem. Ha! The final straw came in October of 2004 because the motor keep over heating and then the motor blew. The dealer insisted that the dealer in Minnesota didn't put the oil filter on right. And they even insinuated that we had something do to with it. However, we never worked on it and they knew it. They replace it under warranty at 81,000 miles. Dealer gave us a 36,000 mile warranty on the new motor. Because we couldn't afford to get out of this one and pay the difference for a new one we took back the car with the new motor hoping all would be well. NOT!! We had it serviced and as long as we do town driving it seemed fine. In May we took another long trip and once again it over heated. Took it in and they replaced the clutch fan and said all was well. Now for the final straw. Traveling back to NM the first of this month it over heated again. The gauges read hot and the cooling fan would not kick in. Vehicle broke down 300 miles from home. Had to get towed and was just told the computer malfunctioned and fried the 2nd motor. Because it is out of warranty by 1500 miles and it was not the motor it was the computer it is not covered under warranty. So we are told we will have to pay for the repairs and replacement of a new motor. About $15,000 plus. We still owe on this car. I have had it with Ford and people need to be aware to keep good records and not except excuses from their Ford Dealers, Customer Service and Service department. Just needed to vent. And if anyone else has had problems with the 6.0 diesel or computer.
Thank you

bhoffman · July 2005

Has anyone had problems with the back window falling out on the 2004 Excursion?
I have had the drivers side back window fall out 3 time in 7 months. The dealer has replaced the window each time but it is a pain and I'd like to know if it is a bigger problem than just mine.

pjmarg · July 2005

I have a 2000 Excursion v10 and occasionally when I crank it, it either idles very low (4-500 rpm) or will completely shut off. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be really aggravating. (Maybe 1 out of 5 cold cranks.) At first I thought it had something to do with disconnecting the battery and not going through the engine idle re-learn process that is in the manual, so we disconnected the battery again and went through that multi-step process to let the engine "re-learn" it's correct idle. That seemed to work for a good while, but now it's happening again and repeating that process doesn't seem to fix it.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

paulpizmo · July 2005

I have 2 one Eddie Bauer v10 and the other is Limited 4wd 6.0. Each has had its own set of problems and one common one. But when you have 4 kids 3 of which are in car seats, I think they're the best things on the road. So far, my local Ford dealers have been pretty good at taking care of the warranty issues, but they are near the end of the period. I may pay for the extended plan for the diesel.
The V10 has had a bad alternator cash replacement and labor would have been about 750. I paid 0.
The 6.0 has had 2 turbos, an egr valve, fan clutch (did u know that you truck transmission won't engage when the switch goes out, in the middle of the desert pulling a boat at 110 in the afternoon an hour ffrom the arizona border). I guess costs whould have been about 6000 so far only 75 buck for a fuel filter.
They both have common problems with brakes. I can feel the vibration of warped rotors on both and I think I'll due the complete Power Slot rotor replacement on both along with the ceramic pads. Everything I've read says that is the way to go.I've learned alot about them and if you have questions I may have an answer. But I'm not a tech by any stretch of your or my imgination. Have fun and I really like this site. Good people!

paulpizmo · July 2005

I took mine to the dealer and they reflashed the engine computer with updated programming. It seemed to fix the problem for the past year. Check and see it there is a recall for your year model

z06klr · July 2005

my 00 moutanieer does the same thing, need some help, whats the cause of this?
it use to work fine, then it would make a short chirp and tun off, now it just turns off
when i but it in "R"
any help
Darkbluestang@yahoo.com thanks jeremy

gtracer83 · August 2005

I need to replace my outside towing mirror and need to get to the wiring inside the door. How do I get the inside panel off? I can get the nuts off on the mirror itself, but don't see how the panel removes so I can get to the wiring connector?

Help! Thanks, John

dogmike · August 2005

Rather then messing up the door, you are probably better off taking it to an auto glass repair facility and let them do it for you. Look in the yellow pages, they normally replace windshiedls, but will definitely helpy you.

You should be able to negotiate a price for it. It should not be more than $20. Plus they will be done in around a half an hour and you will never notice the door was taken apart. Doing it yourself might mess things up. They know which way the door panel moves to get if form the door itself. I had a similar case with a different vehicle.

Good Luck.

shash · August 2005

Well, rather than tell you to go have someone do it, how bout I provide some real meaningful advice. It's quite simple:

1) Rock the plastic cover at the front, highest point of the door (its the one about 6" long) until it comes off in your hand.
2) Gently pry the bezel that holds the power window control out of the hole. Start at the end closest to the front of the car. You can use a pry bar or very blunt screw driver. Don't mar the plastic. It should pop right out.
3) Mark the wiring two wiring harnesses and the holes that they plug into with tape and symbols
4) Gentle remove the wireing harness from the two fittings
6) Look for the screw that holds the panel to the door frame and remove it
7) Gently pry the red light cover on the door panel out of its position
8) Remove the screw that holds the panel to the door frame
9) Gently lift the door panel upwards and rock it back and forth until it just comes loose.
10) Look down on the inside and see the wire that powers the lightbulb in the door panel
11) Turn the plastic light bulb fitting 90 degrees and it will come out of the door panel
12) Remove the door panel.

Reverse to re-attach. Of course, you can drive to an auto-glass company and company then pay someone to screw it up for you but that wouldn't be as much fun.

ltw · August 2005

My Excursion has some of the same problems. To fix the inside lights staying on/door ajar thing spray all of the door sensors with WD40.

ltw · August 2005

To fix the light problem, spray all the door sensors w/ WD40

1bigtug · August 2005

I have a 2002 Ford Excursion with the 6.8L (V10) and the rearend gears are 4:30 - I've been having problems with pinging while under load - and recently without being under load - Our mileage was HORRIBLE on a recent trip 5 miles to the gal while towing our 30' Weekend Warrior FS30 model - I've switched out the air intake with a Air Raid system and also used the Hyper-Tech III for programming!!! all have helped - with the exception of the pinging - the other MAJOR problem is the DAM doors squeaking - I've had the weather stripping molding replaced 2 times - which solves the problem for 3 or 4 months - I'm know looking at trading it in!!! and buying a new 06 F350 4 x 4 Crew Cab Dually! The price is right - with the exception that I own the Excursion out right - it just turned 44,500 (however the trade in value would not be what I'd want or NEED- We did purchase the extended warranty 6yr / 60,000 -however some of these problems have been addressed before and still have not been resolved - I'm thinking I should be looking at Chevy or Dodge trucks to resolve my problems!!! :confuse:

dgf625 · August 2005

I have a 2001 Excursion, it started stalling just when it was raining, but would start right up again. It would stall at idle or when rpms are falling, at higher rpms it would hesitate and tach would drop, but continue running. Now it happens more often and not only when it is raining, and for the first time would not restart right away. No check engine light or codes says FORD. 90% of the stalling is when slowing for a corner, losing power steering, and my wife is usually driving. She is ready to kill me. Map sensor, Cam sensor??

ned412 · August 2005

I'm on my 2nd Ex now. Had an 01 Limited 4x2 V8. Had the same brake problem once in 50,000. The dealer turned the rotors at about 30,000 and they were fine after that. Had the transmission replaced because it slipped in OD. This was my own fault because I towed a trailer from PA to FLA and never put it in tow mode. It was also covered under warranty.

Now have an 05 Eddie Bauer 4x4 with the 6.0. No problems yet with 5,000 on it. I do notice that it requires move attention driving on the highway. It doesn't go straight like the 2WD model. It seems you are constantly moving the wheel a little. The 2WD was perfect. You could take you hands off the wheel and it would go straight for ever.

I do notice a bunch of difference between the diesel and the V8. I don"t tow anything but like the better mileage. I'm getting about 15. The V8 got 12. Plus now diesel is a little cheaper. I didn't get the extended warranty yet but probably will before the warranty is up.

I really love the EX and would buy another if they keep making them. Do they plan on making them in 06?

pjair · August 2005

my ford ex has been making funny noises when towing my boat, like a backfire
it looses power but continues to run, it does this several times in a row, back of the throttle and it stops.
it also has been blowing the turbo to pipe hose.

pjair · August 2005

i have a 04 6.0 diesel and they tell me that it has a variable pitch turbo, can any body elaborate on that?

mpaulin · September 2005

We have the same problem with our 2001 excursion bouncing. What did you get from Ford to correct the problem?

rmejia · September 2005

i own a '01 V-10 4x4 excursion with 80 k miles. on a short trip to texas, only 350 miles, my tranny gave out, only gear left was reverse. during the trip, i noticed the gears shifting in real hard, tranny fluid was full, and red, but smelled burnt, service was always kept up on this thing. called dealer ship to see if they had any similar problems. there answer, "just one of those things i guess" i thought of taking it to a dealership in texas, but instead took it to a tranny specialist. turns out, he had two other trannys, from two other v-10 4x4 excursions sitting in his shop. one '01 and the other an '02. both with significantly less miles. what are the odds?? just one of those things i guess. has anyone else had any similar problems??

ned412 · September 2005

My 01 V8 4X2 had the tranny go at 30,000. It was replaced under warranty. It started to slip going into OD and when I took it in they told me it had to be replaced.

ned412 · September 2005

THis is my 2nd EX and I have the same problem with both. The back glass door rubs on the 2 lower doors and leaves a scratch mark. Myh other EX was repaired and they repainted the rear doors. Does anyone else have this problem?

detroitlions · September 2005

i have a 2001 excursion 7.5 diesel that wants to stall out usually at startup. it happened once before and dealer says it was low on oil? after $100 oil change it ran perfect. but six months later its doing it again.i have 50,000 miles on it.. its still under warranty.i can see how oil can afect injectors but oil is ok. anybody?

trophylady · September 2005

Just wanted to say THANK YOU for your posting of the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. I had our 2002 Excursion 7.3 towed to a shop because it would cut out. When they test drove it there was no problem, brought it back home and right away it started again (I was starting to think it was me). Then I found this forum and your posting and told my husband, "This is it, this is our problem." The next day he went to the dealership, came home installed the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR and things have been good ever since. Thanks again. Lakeside, CA

malibu454ss70 · September 2005

has anybody done propane? or any other mods to help with the gas. I have a 2002 xlt V-10. K&N air intake, flowmaster exhaust. i bought june 9, 2005 with only 32k on it i have already put about 13k mi on it. I love my X. haven't had any probs yet. it has 8" lift with 35" bfg at's, mickey thompson rims, A/V system with 3 7" screens. i would like to know about propane or another alternative to gas. and if anybody on here has propane the pros and cons to converting to an alternative fuel. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. i know arizona gives a brk on licensing for alternative fueled vehicles

pboyce · September 2005

I also have an 2002 X 7.3 Power Stroke, well actual I pay for it and my wife drives it
hard.
I was going through rotors like crazy, the dealership cut them twice around every 5000 to 7000 miles but they warped again, I was greasing pins every 4000 miles with amsoil synthetic grease but they still warped. Finally they replaced the rotors
and guess what it happened again.
The truck was out of warrenty now and I purchased new rotors from a place in (I think) Rockchester NY They suggested to go with sloted rotors not the ones with holes in it and that fixed the problem, They didn't give me ceramic brakes but metalic brakes.
So I hope this helps you.
Does anyone no which transline is the return line the one in the front or rear of transmission or the one closer to the motor or closer to rear, I need to fully flush the transmission and I dont want to pull both lines off to find out so I dont make to big of a mess.
Thanks

mikevg · September 2005

Hi all newbie here, i have an 00' Excursion w the V-10, recently i ran the gas down to near empty or 16 mile left on the read out, went to start her up and she would not fire up, it will turn over but no starty!!! So went and replaced fuel filter, reset the fuel pump switch, and it will still not start. Any ideas on what else to do, before i hit the dealership?

Thanks MikeVG in Sunny Smokey So Cal

bradnels · October 2005

To begin with, I am not a technition just a guy who has a 00' 7.3 diesel with a power chip and K&N filter in my Excursion, I pull a 7000 lb camper and occasionaly a Bobcat that is alot of weight also. I was pulling the bobcat and the trailor breaks went out so my truck was dooing all of the stopping for the trip. Shortly after that incident I noticed a slight shake in the stearing wheel and it got consistently worse as time went on. I am very familiar with the term "Warped rotors" and "having them turned as I have owned several other big SUV, Expedition, same thing. Taho, Same thing, Suburban Same thing and I got sick of "turning rotors". I did some research and "googled" warped rotors, and found out that what most of us think is that the actual rotor gets a warp or a wave to it and that causes the vibration. But what it seams actually happens is from the extreme heat that is built up between the pads and the rotors the molecules in the metal actually change and cause "I can't remember the exact term" a kind of hard spot "in" the rotor, kind of like a planters wart. and the pads don't grip the rotor at the same rate as it does the rest of the surface. So when the machine shop "turns" the rotors they have to grind the whole surface of the rotor down to eliminate that spot in the rotor that has hardened. Why does it happen in the first place, pads and rotors have to be matched to each other, in other words softer break pads will heat up and get spongy but they don't heat your rotor to the point of "warping" but you loose stopping power. Hard break pads will feel firm, but will heat up the standard rotor to the point of "warping" because a sold "non-slotted or no holes" does not disapate enough heat. So to end this, I went to the local auto store and got high end pads and rotors that were slotted and drilled and some caliper grease. I greased the bejeausus out of the pins and worked them back and forth several times until they slid nice and loose (they were very sticky and that does not allow the pad to separate from the rotor enough and causes heat build up then "warping") I now have about 5,000 miles on the new set up and am very happy, the truck stops very nicley, firm and quick with no vibration. As for the chip and the K&N filter, what a differance, I get 17-18 MPG in the city and 22-23 on the freeway and the power and excelleration is awsome (for a 7800lb truck) and I do not have a light foot. this thing is like a 4 tone rocket, that can now stop. I also put 285/75 R 16 Bridgestone Revos (2nd set) and it handles 10 times better then the junk firstone steeltex. So properly set up this is an excellent all around truck.

joseph42s · October 2005

I know the plug is on for the engine heating during winters. I want to leave the Excursion for long periods of time without driving, is there anyway to rig the plug in to trickle the battery? Since I will be leaving it outside and in the elements, I dont think putting your run of the mill trickle charger on it would be good. I use the vehicle pretty much only for towing.

joseph42s · October 2005

I was thinking about switching from the 6 ski jacker set up back to stock, I have some kick [non-permissible content removed] wheels and Toyo tires with the set up. I bought the truck used, and enjoy all the other add ons but would like to drop it down to normal. Anyone interested?

tulsa, OK

Joe

detroitlions · October 2005

well havent been on site lately.and you have probably found the problem..but i found that you need at least 100 miles on read out and on even surface or it wont start what did you find out?

detroitlions · October 2005

can you elaborate on how you dealt with cam shaft sensor? settings? does it run smooth now? thanks striper

quickfords · October 2005

I am not sure if anyone else has seen this, but I thought I would ask the forum folks before seeing the dealer. I am getting some paint delamination on the roof. It is along the long recesses on the roof (paralell to roof rack). It has been flaking off for about a year now and getting worse. :mad:
Is it just me?

sixkidbill · October 2005

I'm having same problem. Where exactly are the door sensors? Is that the latch? Thanks so much for responding.
Sandi

matt21 · October 2005

when i start my 2000 excursion v 10 it does not want to stay running. it use to happen 3/4 times over 6 months but now it is happening more often, could it because of the cooler weather?

any help?

rmejia · October 2005

what are you looking for($$$) as far as the trade. hows the tread on the tires? how big are they?

wwilliams2 · November 2005

I have a 2001 Excursion and I recently had a similar problem. The dealer replaced some sort of Air Bypass Valve. I had several other things fixed while in the shop but if I remember correctly you may be looking at a few hundred dollars for parts/labor.

wwilliams2 · November 2005

I realize that this message is several months old but I can relate. I have the same problem. I have a huge rub mark, paint worn off right down to the metal on the right side. Did you find a solution?

Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

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