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And what the price might be for new calipers and possibly slotted and/or drilled/dimpled rotors ?? Thanks for any help in advance and I'm sure glad this site is here, GOOOO EXCURSIONS!!!!
Yes it is the front stab. bar. I have a 2001 Excursion with 140k on it. I have had the same brake problem twice. It is warped rotors. I have had them replaced twice. There is a lot of chatter on this web site about brake shudder and some guys swear that rotors that have been treated with cyrogenics ( liquid nitrogen) have fixed the issue. I have also heard it does not. I did put upgraded rotors, pads and front calipers on this time and I have the best brakes I have ever had since I got the truck new. Good luck.
i have been told by MANDERBACH FORD in temple PA
you do not cut rotor, must be replaced.. so i did and still they warp
now i wonder what they will do cause i am taking my excursion to an other dealer HMMMMMM care to bet ????? my excursion is diesel
heater1951- Please post what next dealer says/does. Thanx!!
idgolfjunkie- I've read your previous postings, seems "cryo" rotors work for some people but I cannot afford them, I've actually found slotted/dimple drilled for slightly less than stock ones from dealer(am only replacing fronts). Were your rotors drilled all the way through or "dimple" drilled ? Thanx !! I like to discuss/learn about this truck. Anyone know how to remove the stock radio/cd player, it looks like there are 2 small holes on each side of radio, does that have to do with removal ?? Thanks all for your postings and help, will check back once or twice a week for any replies, good luck to all and lets continue to help one another, thanks again
I have an '03 Limited w/ 4x4 & 7.3l and I purchased mine with 45k+/- on it back in July of 2005. Within the first few months of owning it I replaced the rotors argumentatively not knowing about the warping issue, but because I know it was a big truck and I had warping issues on my Suburban. Both vehicles I had purchased a set of 4 slotted and dimpled rotors off ebay and have been extremely please. Both trucks had huge improvements in stopping, well that with good tires. I only ran Michelin's on the Suburban and on the Excursion except I'm trying the Toyo Open Country now and I am very please with them. Sorry, off topic......my X now has 120k on it w/ 75k on the new rotors and not one issue! At first I use Hawk pads, but now I'm using Raybestos heavy duty and I would not change a thing! I would not stress paying a fortune for rotors, I do not remember what I paid but they were very reasonable. If you buy off Ebay, just make sure you check out their feedback and make sure you get dimpled, not drilled thru. Drilling thru weekends the rotor and you do not want one to explode under the X's heavy weight while braking hard.
re: Radio......fphilli1 is correct, those 4 holes are for a 2 piece tool. If you Best Buy has competent installers have them do it. They did just fine installing an Alpine for me, but totally fubarred installed the Alpine Flip Down TV.............
Good Luck!
I have the same problem with my back breaks they shutter when I start to stop. Let me know if anyone answers.
Thanks
Tom
PS- anyone ever have a tab from rear defroster grid come loose from the window??
Seems there was a recall 2/08 when I was in california (live in texas). NEVER got the recall. result is they catch on fire (because of cruise control). The FD inspector told me that the week before a poor soul lost his house because the excursion caught fire hours after he'd parked it IN HIS GARAGE. HE LOST HIS HOUSE.
NO KIDDING. Unload the piece of junk before it burns your house down.
Trying to save couple hundred dollars by doing it myself in this economic times.
I have found that the main factor in my gas mileage is temperature. I can usually count on 1-1.5 less MPG in the winter. I have a 2000 F250 diesel that I ran on the highway. The truck ran its best in the summer when it was over 90 degrees. The truck has 302K on it and is going pretty strong (power train). I never did anything to it except change the oil and trans fluid. cant say much about the V10.
For that year and make, with that kind of mileage, it is probably getting close to ball joints and shocks. I think the heavier diesel is slightly less efficient with tirewear. The oil changes will cost you more but with 10K a year that would not be a big problem. FYI--that year of Ford has a tendency to have power door lock issues and "door ajar". I am also starting to get some minor paint peeling. The biggest problem with the diesels
is they last so long you tend to think you have more problems than you really do.
I had Ford repaint my Ex. and I cost me out of pocket $75.00. I have a 2004 Ex. Eddie Bauer, white with light copper trim. Mine was peeling on the roof by the top of the windshield and along the side (top) and front bumper. I'm not sure if Ford will do anything for you with the problems they are facing now. But it may be worth a try. Good luck!
About the lift, you may be able to get away with a 2" but I would say a 4" is what you would have to put on your Ex. to clear that size of wheel and tire.
C/ya Andrew
I am looking for people with experience with just drilled rotors, slotted and drilled and slotted and dimpled.
Thanks
My husband replaced the brake pads and said he needed to replace the rotors as well. All the info on here is very helpful. After he replaced them, a clinking started (right after his day off - of coarse!) and finally made a snap noise yesterday. The steering seemed kind off pulling to the side like I had no steering capability at all and then would work again. Weird. As soon as my husband got home he took the tire, brakes, and rotor off. There was this flat "c" shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor. The only thing we can think of is that was has been causing the clinking noise. The whole hub seemed very loose and shaky. Maybe moving back & forth as mucha s 1". Should it move that much? I don't ever remember seeing a hub move like that. We parked it :-( but want to get it back on the road asap. We are considering replacing the hub and/or bearings. Has anyone else had this problem? I'd love to hear about what you've tried. Thanks!
Everyone's comments seem to say they replaced the bearings but never why? So another questions to throw out there would be why did you try that/
COME TO THINK OF IT, many of the problems talked about on this sight are probably more from poor quality repairs made from mechanics that did not do a thorough job than from Ford.
Just wondering if you got yours fixed and what it took?
Tx, BN
i had just replaced the fuel pump and im getting 30psi not sure if thats right... ...i already replaced the oxygen sensors so i dont know if that could still be it... i drive on the freeway constantly .. when i get about 10 minutes on the freeway the revolutions will go all the way down and it will just be in idle just enough for the motor to not turn off, even though the its in drive and im stomping on the gas... then ill have to turn it off and on again for it to work another 10 minutes... anyone know on what i can do? think its an electrical wiring problem?