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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    You did not state whether it is a 4x4 or not.

     

    I had a Chevy truck that had a similar problem that ended up being the (ball joints for the spindle). I changed them out as well as all ball joint in the steering system.
  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    Did you have a accident?

     

    Or

     

    Did you modify the height of the truck? If you modified the height of the truck the company you purchased the suspension equipment from should have informed you that you needed additional parts so the alignment can be corrected. AND Dependent upon how drastic you changed the height, you might never get if perfect. When I slammed my 1500 I made a fortune on the parts(Just about the entire factory suspension and cross members) when I took them to the autorecylers.

     

    The change from 16" to 17" is no big deal and the dealer should have replaced the speedometer unit to the correct one with the purchase. (they have them usually in stock and are replace on the transmission side of the speedometer)(and only cost about $5). It is a little unit held in with one bolt usually and plugs the trucks harness into the other side. This fix you can do yourself and only takes 10 minutes and will correct the speedo and ABS problem.
  • vegasramvegasram Member Posts: 1
    You should change your fuel filter every 15,000 miles. Look in your owners manual, it has a maintenance schedule in there. About the injector cleaning, if you use an additive in your fuel you should be ok. Some trucks get clogged injectors and do need a cleaning. A tell-tale sign is your engine will get loud like the older Cummins engines.
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    I have a 2004 3500 with the HO diesel that has 1500 miles on it and I'm noticing what appears to be light valve clatter. It appears when the engine is cold and after it warms up when you put a little pressure on it such as going up even a slight hill in high gear. It is worse when pulling a cow trailer. The truck has an automatic transmission. Is this a normal noise in these engines with no more miles on it than I have on mine? Has anyone else encountered it and found what it is? I have an appointment at the local Dodge dealer today to listen to it and see what they think it is but I'd like to know what owners have encountered and whether I should be alarmed or not.

     

    I would appreciate any help anyone can give.
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    Methinks you're hearing the normal sound of a cold diesel engine. It takes a long time to heat that big mass of steel up - which is why you're not supposed to idle them for very long, they lose too much heat. Also, since they're so quiet otherwise, it makes any extra sound that much easier to hear. My '03 Cummins clatters when it's cold, and it's perfectly normal. Go drive a pre-common-rail Cummins or a Brand X diesel - talk about clatter!!!
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    It does it when cold, but also when I am pulling a cow trailer and the engine temp gauge is at normal operating temperature. I have noticed it after driving it on a four lane highway about 15 miles to a nearby town and going up a relatively slight grade on their truck route. As it turns out, the same grade is the one on which I have noticed it when towing and when just the truck is being driven. The sound occurs more when towing, but even empty when more accelerator is applied on a slope. I hope it is a normal thing, but if it isn't and may be damaging the engine I want to get it fixed or at least on record with the local dealer. I have some diesel engines in tractors and they are louder when cold, but once up to temp they settle out.

     

    Thanks for the input.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Fuel quality can have an effect on noise/clatter on a diesel. You might try some different fuel, or add some good cetane booster just to see. I've not noticed a huge difference running premium diesels in my trucks, but I generally run a good fuel to begin with. The difference between trashy fuel and premium might be more noticeable.

     

    My VW quiets down substantially when running premium diesel. I can hear it change tone while I'm pumping the good stuff in.
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    We live in a small town in which everybody knows everybody just about and I took the local Dodge service manager, who I know, for a ride today and he heard it a little. As usual, it didn't do it when I wanted it to, but I drove it enough before getting there to be sure it was thoroughly warmed up. He has one of the older Cummins diesels in a one ton truck himself, but not the HO. He said they quietened them down by changing the injection process to inject the fuel so it burns over a longer period than dumping it into a cylinder all at one time and he thinks it is that process that is causing the clatter sometimes, which is normal for them. He said they sometimes have clatter when they are first started but what I'm getting isn't enough to harm the engine--which was my main concern--and to drive it to see if it gets worse. If it worsens I'll take it back.

     

    I am
  • knawracajknawracaj Member Posts: 1
    I just had this happen to me. Went to start the Ram and nothing. Was able to get it started by holding down accelerator pedal slightly,and limp it to the dealership. they told me that you should have the carb rebuilt or have something changed every thirty thousand miles and that cost is $119.00. i have a 2002 1500 Ram with 70,000 this was the first incident i have had with this carb problem.
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    BMaige, I don't tow with my truck, so I don't know about a clatter under that kind of load, but unless you're getting a really awful noise I'd bet it really is normal. As I said, try driving a Ferd - if I'm idling at a light and a Ford diesel pulls up to me, I hear them over my own truck.

    Knaw, I was under the impression that all the Dodge gassers were fuel injected nowadays - I didn't even know you'd HAVE a carb. What engine do you have?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your 2002 RAm does not have a carburetor. You have fuel injectors and a throttlebody. The throttlebody is sometimes referred to as a "carburetor" by mistake.

     

    Regards,

    Dusty
  • lralstonlralston Member Posts: 9
    Either your dealer has been lucky and not experienced vibration problems in other trucks or he's giving you the run-around. There is a history of vibration issues with some 2004 2500 rams. Dealers start a tire balancing, drive line replacement including u-joints, and in some cases gear and bearing replacements in the rear axle. If you get no satisfaction from your dealer go somewhere else. You are not the only one that has had this problem.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Jim,

     

    From your description this vibration appears to be intermittent. Is that correct?

     

    There have been some vibration problems reported on newer RAMs and there have been a number of items that have been found to be the source. But in all of the reports that I can remember the vibration problem was consistently present from day one or became consistently present after time.

     

    Tire, wheel, or drivetrain imbalance would not (likely, anyways...) be intermittent. I once was involved with a Ford Taurus that had an intermittent vibration like you are describing and it turned out to be a rear shock absorber that would intermittently freeze up. It was back to the dealer's about six times and to a few independent repair establishments before the shock was discovered to be the problem.

     

    Best regards,

    Dusty
  • dt7dt7 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a used 1999 Quad-Cab 4X4,lifted with 33" tires, chip, 360 and a 46RE tranny with 69000 miles. Shortly after buying it, I noticed that at around 60-65, 1800RPM, it would surge around 400 RPM to about 2200..then drop back down. It is very sporratic. It also won't shift into 2nd until it hits around 2300-2500 RPM under steady acceleration. It shows no codes, nor code history. I have checked the computer, governor switch, and had it serviced. I purchased an extended warranty, but I know they will have a hard time getting it to happen. Any ideas..??
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Our V10 started doing the exact same thing, RPMs surging, turned out it was the throttle position sensor. However, we had NO trouble with the shifting. That said we had a 2001 Ram 360 46RE and it went through 3 torque converters and a transmission in the time we had it, so the torque converter would be another possibility.
  • dt7dt7 Member Posts: 3
    I forgot to mention that I the first thing I did was to adjust the TPS. I've been leaning toward your idea......the torque converter. Did your computer ever give a code?
  • admastersadmasters Member Posts: 17
    Hello all. I am a new Dodge owner. About 3 weeks ago I bought a 2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 SLT with the 5.7L hemi engine. It has the 20 inch chrome wheels and the electronic AWD. It has an aftermarket (I think) dual exhaust system that has a great sound but it is a little on the loud side. Would moving the exhaust outlets from the sides to the rear make the noise a little quieter in the cab?

    Also, I am now thinking about upgrading to a cold air intake system (such as K&N). What other brands are recommended? Does this void the manufacturers warranty? Does this actually improve performance and most importantly gas mileage over the original equipment?

     

    Thanks for your suggestions and comments.

    Thanks,

    Anthony
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Yes it did, the Check Engine light came on. Right before it went the last time and took the tranny with it the thing would kick out of overdrive, was no getting it back in either.
  • dt7dt7 Member Posts: 3
    Almost wish mine did....then I would know what it is!
  • jlukynjlukyn Member Posts: 1
    hello could you tell me anything about a2003 3500 4x4 diesel i am having vibration at 50 mph goes away at 65mph returns to 72 mph gone at 80 mph i had tires balanced checked u joints replaced front axle u joints cant figure this one
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    sorry about not getting back to you...the question should have been, is 12 mpg city normal for the hemi with 3.92 rear...I know it is not a Honda hybrid, but with a sticker showing 14/18, I kinda thought it might do 15 or 16 in the city...altho, when I get on the freeway right after fillup, at 70-75 mph, I can get 18.9 mpg on the highway...I have wondered if changing from the optional 3.92 to the standard 3.55 rear will help at all...the truck does exactly 70 mph with the tach at exactly 2000 rpm, so would a 3.55 rear ratio allow the engine to turn at 1700 or 1800 with the 3.55 rear...does anyone out there have the hemi with 3.55, and how fast do you go at 2000 rpm, or, conversely, at 70 mph, what is your engine speed?

     

    Just yesterday, I saw a Ram SRT w/Viper engine...looking under the rear, it had a rear anti-roll bar (or anti sway bar) which is not on the other models...does anyone know ifthe SRT chassis is the same as my 1500 quad cab short bed, and are the welded brackets the same...in other words, can I order the anti-roll bar and the attaching link kits, and will it simply bolt on the my rear housing and chassis and give me better handling on my truck? Thanks

     

    Bob
  • cummin @ yacummin @ ya Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I bought a 2004 Dodge 2500 HD H.O. Cummins Quad Cab 4x4 4 days ago. It is my first heavy duty diesel truck, and I have some questions: 1)Am I supposed to only get 12.7 M.P.G., or is something wrong?

    2)From 1st to second gear, the truck seems to be overly searching for the right gear (back and forth, back and forth)

    3)The tranny seems to "slip" a bit and when it does catch the gear it hits real hard, is this normal?

    4) It takes like 10 minutes before I can feel any heat coming out of the vents, is this normal?

    I would appreciate as much info from Dodge owners as possible!

    Mike
  • cummin @ yacummin @ ya Member Posts: 2
    Just seeing if anyone read my message, and if I could receive replies!
  • psrampsram Member Posts: 7
    HAPPY TRAILS TO ALL

     

    Well I have had my truck for 2 months now, 2004 ram 1500 Hemi V8. I took my truck on a short trip about 120 miles worth of short. Driving to my destination it all went well. on my back it took me 3 hours to pass one highway check point, funny thing was as sson as I passed it I heard a beep like the beep you get when you leave your keys on the ignition but nothing light up on my instrument panel. 5 minutes later it started beeping again then the LAMP OUT would turn on and off then on and off and it wouldnt sound for about 20 minutes or so, then it would start again beep LAMP OUT on and off then off for a good 30 minutes. I stopped and checked all my light bulbs, headlamps, brake lights, doom lights ect, but they all seem to be working fine. Anybody have any ideas what it might be. I take care of my truck, I never step on it I really take care of it you could say I baby it. The engine runs great, temp gauges are all normal. The only thing I would complain about is the harsh shifting of the tranny thats about it. Any helps is appreciated, I dont want to take it to the dealer just yet but if I have to I will. Its under warrenty so it shouldnt cost me a thing. Could it be an electrical problem? Everything seems to be working fine except for the LAMP Out light truning on and off. Once Again any help will be appreciated.

     

    Love the truck!! It rides great, it runs like a dream, but damn LAMP OUT Light and freaking beep. Should I be concerned? Thanks
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    1) No, you should be getting better mileage - I'm in an '03 HO 4x4, with a tall cap and a lead foot and a LOT of stop and go driving, and I'm getting just shy of 17 mpg. Are you towing or hauling a lot of weight?

    2 and 3) Mine's a stick so can't help you there.

    4) Yes, on a cold day that's normal - it takes that big mass of steel a long time to heat itself up, before it can start heating you up.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    How are you coming up with this 12.7mpg figure on a 4-day old vehicle? If you're getting it from the onboard computer, it needs reset. You didn't say if you bought this new or used, but either way you don't know how it's been driven to get that kind of mileage. My '03 is sitting on 11mpg according to the computer, but it pulls 15,000# non-stop. Even if it's new, the first few miles/hours on the truck are very hard on fuel. Not only is the motor very green, it's generally cold-started numerous times or idles a lot. Check the hours on the engine.

     

    You really need to take a few fill-ups to get a baseline for the mpg. And unless you've put 1,000 miles or so on it in 4 days you have no clue what the mpg is or could be.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Marsha,

     

    In general a higher numerical axle ratio will show a slight benefit with respect to fuel consumption in stop-and-go driving. This of course is still highly dependent on driver right-foot attitude. Going to a lower numerical ratio might make your stop-and-go city results a little worse.

     

    Your reported fuel mileage at highway speeds is VERY respectable for the Hemi. I have heard other reports of the same, but many are less than that, too. It all depends on how you drive it.

     

    The SRT rear sway bar may in fact fit without modification. I would suspect so. I have seen a couple of RAM 1500s with a rear sway bar. I have assumed, maybe incorrectly, that they were factory equipped. I'd consult your dealer's parts person and see if the pieces will fit. The only item that needs scrutiny is the rear axle housing. If the SRT has a smaller housing...which I doubt... then there might be a clearance problem installing it on your 1500. I would bet that they use the same size axle housing, however. If the SRT is a larger housing, then I would don't think there would be a problem at all.

     

    Bests,

    Dusty
  • lralstonlralston Member Posts: 9
    My 04 2500 Ram diesel has similar problems and has been in the shop twice, once for tire re balance and once for rear drive-line replacement. Has not repaired the problem. Dealer still looking for a fix. Am curious if this is a diesel only problem or if gassers have experienced the same symptoms. Feedback from anyone would be appreciated.
  • lralstonlralston Member Posts: 9
    Hey Gary, any update on the vibration issue? I hope your bugging your dealer as much as I am.
  • markcolemarkcole Member Posts: 6
    I own a 2000 Ram with the V6 engine. Had the AT rebuilt at 78,000 miles. Now, at 104,000 miles, it is making a whining sound when I put it in gear and am stopped. The sound seems to go away when I start moving, or maybe I just can't hear it anymore. It seems to shift okay when under way. Anyone know what the problem might be? I had the transmission flushed and the tech told me it was the torque converter making the noise. On a probably unrelated note, the truck now doesn't start, possibly due to 5 consecutive days of rain/fog here. Any chance these two issues are related? Thanks.
  • crackcheckercrackchecker Member Posts: 32
    Here is a product that will work for you too.

     

    Finally, a speed-sensor calibrator that restores proper signals to computer-controlled cars and trucks running larger (or smaller) diameter tires and/or nonstock axle gears: The Superlift TruSpeed.

     

    The TruSpeed works with any electronic speedometer and hooks up in-line with the speed sensor located on the vehicle's transmission or transfer case. TruSpeed alters the speed signal at its source, so all speed-related vehicle systems - including the speedometer reading, ABS function, and transmission shift points - are corrected to work with any nonstock tire diameter.

     

    Installation is a simple four-wire hookup, and comprehensive installation instructions make calibration an easy one-man operation. TruSpeed not only corrects the speedometer reading to within 1 percent, but it can also be recalibrated an infinite number of times if future gear ratio and/or tire changes are made to the vehicle.

     

    In addition, the TruSpeed can be programmed for two different height settings for those who make seasonal tire changes or who frequently run two different-height sets of tires on the vehicle (i.e., "street" "show" or "race" tires). TruSpeed applications are available for all domestic and import trucks equipped with an electronic speedometer. Many applications are either already offered or are in development.

     

    For more information call 800-551-4955, or visit www.superlift.com.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    First, if your 2000 RAM has a distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, it's probably telling you that they need to be replaced.

     

    The whine you hear may be the transmission pump. They rarely make noise on Mopars, but I have heard a few. On GMs this means the pump is on the way out, but I was told once that's not the case on Mopars. The AT fluid could be low or there could be a restriction in the cooling lines, either clogged by dirt or kinked somewhere.

     

     
    Unfortunately, this could also mean that your mechanic used Dexron-Mercon ATF instead of ATF+4. Using Dexron fluid will kill a Mopar transmission.

    Good luck.

     

    Regards,

    Dusty
  • texasquad02texasquad02 Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Dodge Quad 1500 has 36,200 miles on it and now has its first major problem. Sometimes, after driving 10 or 15 miles, red panel warning light comes on, warning bell sounds, and oil pressure gage drops to zero, usually at idle or below 1200 rpm. When I increase rpm, gage goes back to normal and light goes out. This condition comes and goes erratically. Indicated pressure loss is momentary.

    Took truck to dealer today and the problem would not repeat. They checked for computer updates. They felt the likely culprit is the oil pressure sensor and they changed it out (cost $122) and we hope it solves the problem. I run Mobil 1, 10w30 with last change just about 200 miles ago. Problem came up 100 miles after last oil change, but I could not yet find any evidence of bad filter or other problem so I assume for now this oil pressure problem occurance is coincidental.

    Does anyone out there have experience with this problem. Thank you.
  • markcolemarkcole Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info, Dusty. I tried a new coil wire today, but that didn't work. And getting to that distributor cap ain't going to be easy. Anyway, your input has convinced me trade this thing in on something else. Thanks again.
  • bgoodbgood Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ram 1500.I need to know how to change the abs/brake sensor line.Right now it hits my exaust and sets it off due to lowering it.I know i have to move the exaust but how does this sensor come off to replace it.Will it be a easy fix and what kind of tools if is.If i replace sensor will the lights on dash board go off or do i have to reset codes to turn it off.
  • vroom01exvroom01ex Member Posts: 7
    Marsha, my truck is a 2002 Regular Cab Short Bed 4X2 with 42000 miles on it. It's got the old 5.9 engine in it, and it averages around what you get. In fact, if I'm not careful, mine heads for single digits with alarming speed. Like you, I can hustle up highway mileage in the high teens, and I've even seen the low- to mid-twenties on the highway. I would think that your truck would do slightly better than mine would in the city at least- mine is rated 12/18. It's worth noting, too, that mine has a high-flow dual exhaust. I think I can eke another mpg or two out of the thing...somehow.
  • texasquad02texasquad02 Member Posts: 2
    I have Dodge 1500 Quad with 36,200 miles on it and am using Mobil One 10w30. Last change was at 5,000 miles (mostly highway) and the lube shop put in a Shell oil filter. I have been told that Mobil One should be changed at anywhere from 3,000 to 7,000 miles. I have also been told to stick with Mopar oil filter. Am sure this has been on forum before so will search it, but wonder if anyone has recent, new info on best oil and best filter and change intervals.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    responded to my MPG question...we have had the truck now for almost 6 weeks, and the odo reads about 1600 miles...we like it, it is roomy, but takes some getting used to after driving an Intrepid since Jan 2000...we try to be light on the gas pedal, since this Hemi can spin the rear wheels without breathing hard...driver's door handle replaced twice, would stick open and door would not latch closed...dealer fixed it w/o any question or hassle...dealer has treated me well... have installed bed rail protectors, a flat rubber bed mat (too many negatives for both drop-in bedliner and spray-in bedliner, and the positives did not outweigh the negatives, so a rubber mat will do...thanks to all who added their 2 cents, your comments were quite valuable)...also added Weathertech floor mats, carpet inside rubber, to protect the factory floor mats...can't have the "Ram" floor mats get dirty, now can we???

     

    2 cosmetic questions: 1. I accidentally dripped some fuel onto the silver paint when pulling out the fuel nozzle...rubbed it quickly but slight stain remains...what can I do to remove the stain???

     

    2. I want to wax the truck, by hand only, no buffing machines...I believe it has clearcoat paint, but I am not sure...what are your suggestions???...should I use a wax, like carnuba, or should I apply a polymer coat on top of the paint???...how should I prep the truck, just wash it at a car wash, or does it needs any rubbing with rubbing or polishing compound???...I do not wish to remove any paint, but it would be nice to add a super-shine that beaded water when it rained...your thoughts???

     

    Bob
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    one other thought...last week I changed the air filter (still brand new clean) with a K&N oiled air filter...I really don't know if I wasted time or money, but it says it is freer flowing than paper element filters (I thought that the oil would inhibit air flow, but what do I know?), and the filter will last 50K miles before cleaning and/or replacement...also, I performed the first oil change at 1100 miles, got rid of the factory oil with all the metal shavings, etc., and replaced it with Castrol Synthetic 5W-30, which will now be changed every 5K miles, as in 5K, 10K, 15K, 20K, etc...easy to remember, never need a window sticker for a reminder, will also rotate tires every 5K, and check brake pads when tires rotated...my brother, who has a 1998 Dakota, tells me that he goes thru brake pads every 20K, and that by the time you hear the preventive squeal, he has already ruined his front rotors...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There are several topics with thousands of posts on your polishing query here on Edmunds. There are no right or wrong answers, but there's lots of interesting information.

     

    With regard to air filters, the only way one filter can pass more air than another similar sized one, is for it to have larger 'holes', thereby allowing larger particles through as well as more air. However, the only way that passing more air can benefit you is if the standard air filter is restricting the engine's demand. Do you have any reason to believe yours is?

     

    PS You'll find some major discussions on replacement air filters here on Edmunds as well.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    The only thing I can say about the oiled filters is this: I've had both K&N and Amsoil oiled foam filters and both had higher content of silicon (and higher wear metals as well) in oil sampling than before/after using the paper filter. While the results were still within spec, I find that more wear is bad regardless. If you're planning to keep the vehicle a long time, it may effect the longevity of the engine. I use paper, usually OEM air filters. There may be some cost savings with the oiled filters, but there's also the hassle of cleaning/oiling them. I've never noticed a performance difference, although the oiled filters seem to make the engine more noisy.

     

    I've also felt that at one of the oiled filters promoted the demise of a MAF sensor, although that was on a diesel which seems to have more sensitive MAF's.
  • psrampsram Member Posts: 7
    Now this is strange. I posted a message regarding the Light Out light comming on. Well THis is strange when I drive on the stree not going over 45 miles per hour the light doesnt light up. But when I am driving on the freeway it lights up and goes on beeping and lighting on and off a few times. Now my light bulbs are fine so could it be a sensor going bad or loose wire harness? thats my guess, but if anybody has had this problem before please let me know. Other than that the truck seems to be running great. Strange I might say!!
  • lralstonlralston Member Posts: 9
    Your story is the same as several others I have heard. No one, to my knowledge, has found a complete fix for these vibrations. Stay on your dealer and write letters to the factory. Hopefully when Dodge finds the fix it will be a no cost repair. Good luck.
  • jmh0229jmh0229 Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought this truck (came back to Chrysler) after bad experiences with the Dodge Intripid 2005.

     

    My Malfunction Indicator Light came on again just after having it in the shop for this problem.

     

    Tech writes found code P0841 Indicating L/R pressure Switch Open...cleared code and road tested all OK.

     

    Anyone have an Idea what this is....Owners manual states when Light stays Illuminated contact dealer ASAP could cause severe engine problems..
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Unless a new fault occurred, it's likely that the original fault recurred.

     

    Take it back and ask them to fix the fault instead of just clearing the code.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My fault diagnostic trouble code (DTC) list must be out-of-date. It doesn't list a P0841.

     

    Regards,

    Dusty
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance
  • horton2horton2 Member Posts: 1
    Had a problem with my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 with 15,000 kms. After driving thru a puddle or going thru carwash, 4WD (electronic shift) would kick in on its own. No way to clear problem unless I shut down engine and restarted. Chrysler engineering said they had never heard of such a problem in the past. Took dealer most of day to track down problem but did find a cable above transmission had been rubbing on drive shaft and exposed bare wire. Whenever it got wet, would short out and kick in 4x4. Passing this on in case anyone else has a similar problem.
  • roper2roper2 Member Posts: 61
    Had a noise i've been hearing for a while.When the truck sits over nite when I start it up everything is fine .After I drive about 2 miles when the temp starts to come up and stop at a light I could hear a slight ticking knocking noise coming from the engine area.When it gets up to runing temp I never hear it again.Took it to a mechanic he scaned it everything was good .The problem ended up to be the clutch fan had gone out.Replaced it and its fine now. Thought I would pass info.to everyone.
  • dissapointeddissapointed Member Posts: 1
    I own an 04 ram hemi, performed and handled very well for about 1 year.The computer burned up along with 2 ignition coils and a few fuses.The selling dealer got it running again, but is definately a lot slower and performs very poorly since.The truck also shifts up into O/D and is very difficult to downshift,climbing a slight incline the engine will struggle instead of downshifting, you have to push the throttle almost to the floor to shift down.The throttle was definatly more sensitive before.I brought it back and complained, they said the diagnostic computer read everything OK, brought it to another dealer and the asst. service manager drove it and agreed there were problems.Again, nothing was done because the diagnostic computer said everything checked out.Before the problem occured, I could easily smoke the tires if I wanted to, now it is very embarrasing to even say there is a V8 under the hood,let alone a HEMI. I believe dodge updated the program which detunes my truck to avoid further damage to the weak drivetrain.I have driven other identical trucks, and the problem definately is there in my truck. I have been told by the dealers that the only other thing I can do is have a factory Rep. drive my truck, only then can any further work be done.Anybody else have the same problem or any insight on what else I can do?Is there anything I can do? Aftermarket programming, or throttle position sensors, or possibly as one technician hinted to me that I might find a computer that has not been updated and install that.Any help would be greatly appreciated
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