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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • lyonsinistarlyonsinistar Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L. When I push the pedal for a little extra exceleration especially from a full stop I hear almost like a popping noise coming from the engine. It only seems to happen when I hit push the gas pedal harder than normal. Anyone have any insight as to why it makes that sound and what I can do to fix it?

    Also one other question, how often should I use the overdrive? For example I assume I should take it off when first starting up and should turn it on once I reach 50-55 miles per hour. Should I turn overdrive off everytime I get below 50-55 mph or just when I come to a complete stop?
  • paulrdwpaulrdw Member Posts: 1
    I own a 99' Dodge Ram 2500. I've had it for about a year now, I'm the second owner and have had scheduled maintenance and have been continuing a log that has been passed to me from the last owner. Zero problems with it until recently when my "check engine" light came on. It was almost due for an oil change so I did it early, checked all fluid levels and they were good, but engine light is still on. After moving it to the street, I noticed a water trail trailing out. I looked underneath and the muffler appeared to be leaking?? Never have I run into muffler problems, truck averages 13 mpg as usual, no other noises, idles fine. Is this a sign that my muffler needs replaced?? Juneau, AK is a very wet region of the world. Maybe rainwater is getting in somehow?? Any ideas??
  • murhumurhu Member Posts: 1
    In 1998 I factory ordered a 1500 Dodge Ram 4x4 with the idea that I would own a reliable vehicle. This truck has had the luxury of never being abused, never carried a
    heavy load, never been in the bush, has had all the preventative maintenance done on time, and has always been stored in a garage when not in use. This truck is 7 years old BUT has only 70,000 Km (40000 mi), it looks new, But the motor DIED with no warning for no apparent reason. I notified Chrysler, hoping that they would assume some responsibily for what is apperant to be a lemon, and I was flatly denied, even though all my maintenance records checked out.
    MY MESSEGE TO YOU ALL, IF YOU HAVE ONE GET RID OF IT, IF YOU ARE THINKING OF BUYING ONE DON'T BOTHER. CHRYSLER HAS NO CONCEPT OF SERVICE AFTER THE SALE....NEVER BUY CHRYSLER AGAIN
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Mmmm.....................................so because your forty thousand mile, seven year old Ram developed a problem, all Ram owners should dispose of their trucks and no one should consider buying one ever again?????

    I know this forum is for problems and solutions, but don't you think you're taking it a little far?

    So, what caused the engine to 'DIE'? Could be anything from a loose wire to a rod through the block from the information you've given us so far!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    You obviously only drive very short trips, or very occassional trips which is the worst possible way to operate an engine. I would take one that has average miles (90-100k miles) and been worked hard before buying one that has sat and/or only used for short rips.

    If you think any manufacturer is going to approve warranty work 4 years after it ends.....you've obviously not had much experience with this type of thing. This motor could have 9,000 hours on it for all anyone knows.
  • peppep Member Posts: 4
    My 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7 Auto Trans. Runs hotter then normal going uphill, I have replaced the fun clutch, but still get hot.

    PLEASE HEEEEELP
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ".......I have replaced the fun clutch........."

    Don't think I've ever come across one of those! Still there's lots more you can do.

    Simplest is to clean the outside of the radiator in case it's blocked with bugs or dirt. Use a garden hose and squirt from the back to the front. Access is easy on a Ram.

    Next, flush the inside of the cooling system, replace the thermostat and gasket, then refill with fresh coolant and treat it to a new pressure cap.

    There are other things to check if that doesn't fix it, but I think that doing the above, together with the new fan clutch, will likely fix the problem.
  • peppep Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Mac.
    The original engine was replaced at 82000 miles because over heating problem
    (crack head & #1 cyl.) They install new thermostat end coolant.
    This new engine has only 12000 miles.
    Do you think it may be the timing?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    "Do you think it may be the timing?"

    Possibly, but I doubt it. Timing is computer controlled and doesn't usually change on its own.

    Has it done this from the time it was installed?
  • peppep Member Posts: 4
    Not sure.
  • huskhusk Member Posts: 1
    No one has responded to your question, I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L sport and it is having similar problems. It sounds more like a crackleing noise. At 40-45 mph it make's a crackin noise the same at 70-75 mph on cruise control when going up hill or when went punch gas pedal. The dealer (jackasses) claim that this is a "normal" diesal cling. That the only way to make it stop is to flash the engine, whatever that is, and this may cause us to loose power. So we chose to just live with the noise, but it sounds like a BS story to me. We have looked all over this sight and others and can't find out anything. If you figure out what it is, please post it here. DODGE DRIVER AND LOVER.
  • blblblbl Member Posts: 1
    Chrysler SUCKS! Owned one, NEVER, NEVER, AGAIN! They SUCKED in the 70's They SUCKED in the 80's, They SUCKED in the 90's... AND!!, They SUCK TODAY! Wait until a loved one of yours is KILLED in a piece of CRAP Chrysler! When my case is settled, you're going to hear a LOT more from me......A LOT MORE!
  • pam8pam8 Member Posts: 4
    When I am hauling my horse trailer I turn the overdrive off (per my husbands instructions) My problem is after a little while the engine will heat up, the RPM's will go up very high and it fills like the engine is struggling. This is especially true if I have the AC on. If I turn the over drive off everything goes back to normal and my truck feels like it has more power. My question is should I drive with overdrive off all the time or just when I'm on back roads and hills. My husband says it should be off all the time and would have a fit if he found out I drove with it on sometimes. Should I take it to the dealer? (It is still under warranty) Or is this normal? :confuse:
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    You don't say what engine you have....but if the transmission isn't "hunting" for gears it's fine to run it in OD. If you don't have enough power to pull in OD and it's constantly downshifting/upshifting then it's better to leave it off. Lots of shifting in/out of OD will heat up the torque converter and could cause problems. But if it has adequate power pulling in OD, you're not hurting anything.

    The big question is, why is this engine getting problems after working hard? It should be able to operate within it's rpm band without losing power. And if the rpm's are jumping up, it sounds like it's downshifting even further.

    What engine and how much weight are you pulling?
  • mcdonnell1mcdonnell1 Member Posts: 1
    i own a 03 3500 dodge ram with 112000 km.ive always had a noise vibration in it they changed u joints,gears in the rear end ,transfer case,now my front wheel bearings are shot warranty is over and its 1500 dollars.any one else lose there front wheel bearings.thanks
  • pam8pam8 Member Posts: 4
    Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel. I pull a gooseneck 2-horse with extended dressing room Sundowner Horse Trailer w/ 1 or 2 horses. I don't know a lot about engines, etc. I just know that my truck runs better on the expressway with the overdrive on when I am pulling. But like I said my husband is always reminding me to keep it off and I havent told him about this problem. I was wondering if I continued to drive with it on sometimes if I would tear up the transmission.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    So, instead of answering the question about why your your engine supposedly died, you imply that a loved one is going to die in a Chrysler.

    I have to admit that I'm finding it hard to follow your logic (and lots of CAPS don't help either)! However, I do get that you think Chrysler (actually it's DaimlerChrysler now) sucks...........sorry, SUCKS!!!!!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I have an '01 and we pull a Sundower 3-horse with 10' short-wall. Weighs in between 7,500# and 12,000# depending on load. We've pulled this over 170k miles and generally always leave the tranny in OD, until it gets to the hills. When we get to the bottom of a hill, we turn the OD off, and then turn it back on after we top the hills. If you leave it on for the hill climb, it will shift several times as it reaches speed and that's not good on it. My tranny hasn't given me any problems, but I've seen a lot of folks need new trannys with the earlier models.

    You might have a lift-pump issue as it might be getting fuel-starved when it's demanding a ton of fuel at those high rpms. The lift-pumps were problematic on those years of Ram diesels. I'd get a fuel pressure guage on there and see if it's within spec. It's likely low on pressure all the time, but you might not notice it until really demanding power.
  • kwarren2kwarren2 Member Posts: 11
    Might just have a hole/gap in the muffler. Water is one of two products of complete combustion and you can expect to see some coming out the tailpipe of any [combustion] vehicle.
  • pam8pam8 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks so much for your input. I feel better about it now. I'll get the fuel pressure checked also. :D
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No. The Overdrive Switch takes the PCM to ground directly.

    Or are you refering to the Overdrive Solenoid?

    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, by most most peoples reasoning one problem of any type in sevens years does not define a lemon. I don't think even a sainted Toyota owner would claim that.

    Your message was unfortunately vague. Is it the problem that you're angry about or that Chrysler didn't fix it for free? Your reference to kilometers might mean you're in Canada, and I don't know how the warranties read there, but in 1998 a 7-year warranty means seven years to the anniversary of the purchase. If you're beyond that the manufacturer has no obligation to give any repair parts or services away. In my experience, unless it is a common problem for which the manufacturer recognizes (and has supplied a 'secret' warranty all along), no auto or truck manufacturer will be so kind.

    A lot often depends on a recommendation from a dealer, the field rep, or zone manager. If the dealer hasn't seen you in seven years, and or the only time they've seen you is for a complaint, there is little motivation on their part to do something beyond their obligation. If you started to go off on them immediately, they probably don't want you to come back anyway.

    Sorry to hear of your troubles. Try a Toyota. I keep hearing they're perfect.

    Dusty
  • kwarren2kwarren2 Member Posts: 11
    The overdrive button feels like a momentary switch which leads me to believe the PCM O/D input is edge triggered and not level triggered. Is there a feedback mechanism that positvely recognizes that the transmission itself is out of overdrive and illuminates the "O/D Off" light or does the PCM just send a signal that when it thinks the O/D is off?

    Unfortunately I haven't had time to get in there and look and tinker around yet..

    Kevin
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The wiring diagrams do not indicate whether the O/D button is momentary or not.

    The circuit description indicates that the PCM sends a signal to the instrument cluster to illuminate the Overdrive Off lamp. I'm not sure we can infer anything from that alone. Since the actual actuation of the overdrive circuit is an output to a solenoid, I suspect that there is no positive feedback for overdrive engagement, unless the transmission sends another signal back to the PCM that would indicate actual engagement. This is a possibility. I'll research the circuit description a little deeper.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • stuballstuball Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone out there have any successful methods of increasing gas mileage?

    I have a 1998 2500 V10 Gas Engine.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There's no magic device or answer to that question I'm afraid. It's all the standard boring stuff that's always held good.

    1: Make sure the truck has all systems set optimally, not just the engine but transmission, brakes, and tire pressures as well.

    2: Drive as thoughyou were balancing a hot coffee in your lap. Not necessarily slow,
    but definitely s m o o o o t h !...... i.e. you should rarely have to actually stop for a red light.............watch how the big rigs do it.

    3: Congratulate yourself on getting the best fuel mileage your truck is capable of!
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    Does anyone out there have any successful methods of increasing gas mileage?

    I have a 1998 2500 V10 Gas Engine.


    Yup, you go to the Toyota dealer and buy a Priuis or an Echo. LOL, but seriously, its a V10, it wasn't made for fuel economy. We have a 99 Ram 3500 V10 and I think we average 9 mpg, we stopped looking, was too sickening. We do lay down at night and dream of 15 mpg, probably the closest we'll get to it with that truck.
  • tedptedp Member Posts: 1
    I also have an electrical problem while driving down the road I stopped for a minute when I returned the truck would not turn over called the dealer to help( I was out of town) it was all most quitting time the tech. checked out the start relay and the clutch switch both good he helped me start by manually closing the start relay so I have continued to start that way but would like to find the problem any help would be most appreciated thanks
  • cbsrcbsr Member Posts: 2
    my 360 magnum engine while cruising has a miss or skip. Does anyone have any ideas of what it may be? I have already replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and it still does the same thing. any suggestions would be very helpful.
  • harleyducharleyduc Member Posts: 2
    Hi again all, my '00 Ram 1500 std.cab 360/auto is proving very dependable so I've not been here for a bit. My question re: A/C mode door control. A/C blows cold on any setting, though will occasionally start blowing hot heater air. Rotating dash knob control to 'def' or 'off' momentarily, then back, returns cold air, then drops off to hot again...etc. I have checked running pressures and all is normal, ie. not a too high head psi nor too low system psi, and tool gauge does not register the mode flop. Having searched the archive here, and in the dusty corners of my mind, I believe the problem to be the mode door on the evap case. Does this sound right? Is this door controlled by vacuum, elect. or both? Did they build the truck around it, or is it relatively accessible? Could the dash knob control be involved? Thanks, 'duc.
  • dtilleson1dtilleson1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002-2500 Dodge-diesel,that my wife(whose back flares up with the rear-end bounce)has told me to pay anything to give her a smoother ride.I was told that the Kelderman air ride suspension was the BEST way to go.Kelderman's website has nothing but positive testimonials.I'd like some feedback from neutral parties.Kelderman puts their packages on all kinds of pickups and trailers. Thanks-Bounced about in Loveland
  • husker4848husker4848 Member Posts: 1
    Check engine light came on..no big deal right...Wished took it to the dealer and he said i need a valve job.. Truck never over heated drove great after it warmed up..So took it to another shop.. Well both heads have cracked in them... so we was looking for used ones. Tired 4 sets and they also had cracks in them... After talking to others we have found out that the 360 is knowed for getting cracks in the head.. Has any one else heard of this.. Truck was running fine and did not use any oil. Are the shops full of it or is this true. Truck has 91,000 miles on it and never was touched. Has this happened to yours or is it just me... Does dodge know about this?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Maybe. There may have been a short run of 360 heads with this problem. I've heard Ford and Chevy lovers recount about a thousand stories of this 360 cracked head scenario, but you are the first to claim as an owner to have actually experienced it. I once asked my Dodge tech about this and he said he had never, ever seen one crack. I can tell you this, there are a lot of 360 Magnum motors out there that aren't having or ever had this problem.

    Since your not losing coolant nor burning oil, I'll bet that the crack is at the valve seat. The valve seat area is inductively hardened at the factory. It's possible that some escaped with improper hardening process. Using poor quality fuels, over heating the engine, or operating the engine for long periods with detonation, will cause cracks at the seats.

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mizzusmacmizzusmac Member Posts: 2
    Hi am new to the board, name is Linda, married to a medic over in Iraq. I need some info on towing. I am debating on which I should get a 2 horse bumper pull trailer or a 2 horse gn trailer. I would be trailering about 2000 pounds of horses ( 2 1000 each or less). I was told I could safely pull a gn trailer as long as it wasn't up and down steep hills or the mountains. I was told it is easier to pull a gn than a bumper pull. Anyone have any suggestions on this? Thanks for the assistance it is appreciated. * note the RV website I went on stated this model had a tow rating of 8200 pounds. Is that truck & trailer or actually towing weight? My truck is a long bed 2 wd.
  • cbsrcbsr Member Posts: 2
    mac24 I had the same problem with my 360. Turned out to be the converter was pluged. Try knocking on it with something if you here any kind of noise inside it may be pluged.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    A gooseneck will pulll easier and safer than a bumper pull. I'm not sure on the tow rating with these, but you should be fine. A 2-horse GN, even with dressing room shouldn't be over 4,000-5,000#. Add 2,000# of horses and you should be fine. It may have a 8200# tow rating depending on how it was equipped. You should have a transmission cooler, and if the truck came with the factory tow package that should be included.

    Make sure the trailer has brakes and you have a good brake controller. Let us know if we can help you further.
  • mopar4x4mopar4x4 Member Posts: 1
    Whassup....

    Wires were an issue with the 5.9L High Energy Ignition System on these bad boys. It is like plugging in a HO Motor on using a small cord. It burns up the spark plugs capabilities. Also, the battery (Yes I am saying battery,) when getting close to being bad will cause a rough idle/miss/skip an can be miss-diagnosed. Putting your system on a scope would be the best way to determine the problem, but unfortunatly not a lot of mechanics do that anymore. I say let the dealership replace the wires if you have over 50,000 miles on the truck, but also have them check your battery as well, especially if it has age on it.

    There are other factors possible, but not likely!
  • kwarren2kwarren2 Member Posts: 11
    Yes, definitely check the battery. I had one going bad in a Jeep TJ and the behavior of the engine was very much like an ignition problem (and even an emission system problem).. rough idle, cut-off at idle, missing, etc... It had no problem generating enough juice to turn the starter but whatever failure mode was occuring sure made it run poorly. A new battery and it ran like new..

    Kevin
  • slammer55616slammer55616 Member Posts: 1
    I have a used 1996 Dodge ram EC. It has 134,000 miles. When I go up a hill or a grade, it will buck or "hiccup" while its in overdrive. It seems to go away when I shut the overdrive off. It only does it in overdrive. If I accelerate all the way up the hill, it wont do it. I have run through the shift sequence, hard, on level ground and it shifts perfectly.

    What could this be? Oh by the way, at idle, it has a very small miss or hiccups but when you step on the gas, its smooth as silk.

    Thanks very much for any help, I'm new to Dodge and dont know what to think

    slammer55616
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    I don't think it's your transmission. If it only occurs when climbing a grade in OD or at idle, that usually means the engine rpms are dropping because the truck is slowing down as it climbs the grade. That would drop the rpm to a very low number, not far from idle.

    Step one would be to check your trouble codes with the On-Off-On-Off-On key sequence. The Check Engine light will flash a sequence representing two-digit niumbers for each code in the computer. (Example: flash-flash pause flash-flash-flash would be a code of 23.) "55" means end of codes, so if that's the only number you get, there is nothing reported to the computer.

    Second would be to do the basics: tune-up, air and fuel filters, injector cleaner. Then tet drie where you experience the issues. If they're gone, you just needed some maintenance. If they persist at low rpm, you may need a diagnostic check up from a pro.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • dbeatydbeaty Member Posts: 1
    I also have a problem with my 2000 1500 stalling. When it does stall, my odometer reads "NO BUS".How did you fix your "NO BUS" problem?
  • nova74nova74 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2002 Dodge Ram Sport single cab with the 4.7. It has about 35,000 miles and is a great truck. However, I have noticed a whistling noise that comes from the engine compartment. It does not happen at idle, just at RPM's over 1,500. I have taken it to the dealer a number of times and every time they say its the pulley idler arm and replace it. That will fix the problem until I get in my driveway, but it eventually the noise starts again. I have no idea where the noise is coming from. Maybe a vacume leak???? I don't know, but its very annoying.
    Please Help, Russ
  • str8frecciastr8freccia Member Posts: 2
    Lost my owner's manual and I'm trying to program the Home Link (Garage Door opener) for my 05 2500 Laramie. Any info would be appreciated,

    Thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Pulley idler arm? I think I know what this may be, but check the play on the clutch fan. There should be absolutely none. If there is this could be the source of the noise. It was on mine.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • trigger2trigger2 Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a 2003 Dodge Ram 4X2 Quad Cab 4.7L V8. It doesn't have a smooth idle. It's not terribly rough, but it's not as smooth as I think it should be. I've noticed that it idles around 500 to 600 rpm. Shouldn't it be idling around 750 to 850 rpm? I'm wondering if that is why it idles slightly rough. Also, two times after recently cranked, the truck struggled to stay cranked. It started bogging down and choked down once. The second time it almost choked down, but at the last second, the engine automatically revved up to about 1,500 rpm by itself and settled back down. What could be causing this? Dealer cleaned throttle body - Said there was carbon buildup, but this did not fix problem. One last thing...When accelerating after cranked, there is a loud noise and lack of power. Then after about 5-10 seconds of accelerating, engine sounds normal. Any ideas why this is happening? Thanks.
  • uahoguahog Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Ram 1500 V-6. When it gets to about 50-55 mph on the highway it makes a loud rattle before the engine "kicks in" to go up hills. Once you give it gas and it "kicks in" the noise quits. Any ideas!! Thanks for your help.
  • kwarren2kwarren2 Member Posts: 11
    Is it strictly with engine RPM or does it appear to be more correlated to how much the throttle pedal is depressed? Mine also makes a whistling noise that seems more prominent at low speeds but this may be because of competing noises at high speeds - but anyway, it whistles quite a bit when I depress the throttle. if I back off (like coming to a stoplight) it is totally gone. It's a high pitch and I haven't figured out of it is a metal-on-metal sound or a literally a whistling sound.
  • moneypit1moneypit1 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a used 2001 5.9 turbo diesel 6 cyl. automatic with O.D. Drives like a dream. 5,000 miles later, the check engine light comes on. Within 80 miles, I take it to the dealer. There are no signs of a problem other than the A.C. does not seem to work as well as it did.
    The dealer has stated the fuel pump is going out and has taken the injector pump with it. The injector pump price (part only) is being quoted as $2,000.
    Total mileage on the vehicle is 120,000.
    I am shocked at the price (total quote of $3,000 to repair). Is this a standard range I have to deal with?
    If the pump was "going" out, wouldn't there be some sign....like not running smoothly?
    What is the recommended maintenance on fuel pumps and/or injector pumps.
    The dealer is waiting for a "go-ahead" and I feel like saying "keep it".
    moneypit1
  • nova74nova74 Member Posts: 3
    Now that I think about it, the whistling sound is correlated with the throttle, But the whistle does not start until about 1500 RPM. When cruising at any speed the sound does go away when pressure is let off the accelerator. However, I don't think it's a metal on metal sound. This weekend i'm going to the dealership and having them check the play in the clutch fan, i was told by Dusty that this could be the problem. This will be the 5th time.
  • rdaviesrdavies Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a new 2005 Ram 1500 quad cab with Hemi. From the get go I noticed a very audible vibration coming from the undercarriage of the vehicle while at idle (500 rpm). The vibration drone disappears as soon as the engine accelerates but immediarely returns once you come to a stop light and idle. My initial reaction is that it seems to be exhaust system related. The dealer has gone through the exhaust sustem checking the isolation hangers, heat shield etc and tell me it is OK. At this time they cannot pinpoint the root cause of this annoying vibration, although they acknowledge that it is not "typical".

    Anyone with a similar experience and potential remedies would be appreciated. The truck only has 3000 miles on it but it currently sounds like it has 300,000 miles on it. Needless to say, I am a little disappointed.

    Thanks in advance for any comments.
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