Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Also one other question, how often should I use the overdrive? For example I assume I should take it off when first starting up and should turn it on once I reach 50-55 miles per hour. Should I turn overdrive off everytime I get below 50-55 mph or just when I come to a complete stop?
heavy load, never been in the bush, has had all the preventative maintenance done on time, and has always been stored in a garage when not in use. This truck is 7 years old BUT has only 70,000 Km (40000 mi), it looks new, But the motor DIED with no warning for no apparent reason. I notified Chrysler, hoping that they would assume some responsibily for what is apperant to be a lemon, and I was flatly denied, even though all my maintenance records checked out.
MY MESSEGE TO YOU ALL, IF YOU HAVE ONE GET RID OF IT, IF YOU ARE THINKING OF BUYING ONE DON'T BOTHER. CHRYSLER HAS NO CONCEPT OF SERVICE AFTER THE SALE....NEVER BUY CHRYSLER AGAIN
I know this forum is for problems and solutions, but don't you think you're taking it a little far?
So, what caused the engine to 'DIE'? Could be anything from a loose wire to a rod through the block from the information you've given us so far!
If you think any manufacturer is going to approve warranty work 4 years after it ends.....you've obviously not had much experience with this type of thing. This motor could have 9,000 hours on it for all anyone knows.
PLEASE HEEEEELP
Don't think I've ever come across one of those! Still there's lots more you can do.
Simplest is to clean the outside of the radiator in case it's blocked with bugs or dirt. Use a garden hose and squirt from the back to the front. Access is easy on a Ram.
Next, flush the inside of the cooling system, replace the thermostat and gasket, then refill with fresh coolant and treat it to a new pressure cap.
There are other things to check if that doesn't fix it, but I think that doing the above, together with the new fan clutch, will likely fix the problem.
The original engine was replaced at 82000 miles because over heating problem
(crack head & #1 cyl.) They install new thermostat end coolant.
This new engine has only 12000 miles.
Do you think it may be the timing?
Possibly, but I doubt it. Timing is computer controlled and doesn't usually change on its own.
Has it done this from the time it was installed?
The big question is, why is this engine getting problems after working hard? It should be able to operate within it's rpm band without losing power. And if the rpm's are jumping up, it sounds like it's downshifting even further.
What engine and how much weight are you pulling?
I have to admit that I'm finding it hard to follow your logic (and lots of CAPS don't help either)! However, I do get that you think Chrysler (actually it's DaimlerChrysler now) sucks...........sorry, SUCKS!!!!!
You might have a lift-pump issue as it might be getting fuel-starved when it's demanding a ton of fuel at those high rpms. The lift-pumps were problematic on those years of Ram diesels. I'd get a fuel pressure guage on there and see if it's within spec. It's likely low on pressure all the time, but you might not notice it until really demanding power.
Or are you refering to the Overdrive Solenoid?
Dusty
Your message was unfortunately vague. Is it the problem that you're angry about or that Chrysler didn't fix it for free? Your reference to kilometers might mean you're in Canada, and I don't know how the warranties read there, but in 1998 a 7-year warranty means seven years to the anniversary of the purchase. If you're beyond that the manufacturer has no obligation to give any repair parts or services away. In my experience, unless it is a common problem for which the manufacturer recognizes (and has supplied a 'secret' warranty all along), no auto or truck manufacturer will be so kind.
A lot often depends on a recommendation from a dealer, the field rep, or zone manager. If the dealer hasn't seen you in seven years, and or the only time they've seen you is for a complaint, there is little motivation on their part to do something beyond their obligation. If you started to go off on them immediately, they probably don't want you to come back anyway.
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Try a Toyota. I keep hearing they're perfect.
Dusty
Unfortunately I haven't had time to get in there and look and tinker around yet..
Kevin
The circuit description indicates that the PCM sends a signal to the instrument cluster to illuminate the Overdrive Off lamp. I'm not sure we can infer anything from that alone. Since the actual actuation of the overdrive circuit is an output to a solenoid, I suspect that there is no positive feedback for overdrive engagement, unless the transmission sends another signal back to the PCM that would indicate actual engagement. This is a possibility. I'll research the circuit description a little deeper.
Best regards,
Dusty
I have a 1998 2500 V10 Gas Engine.
1: Make sure the truck has all systems set optimally, not just the engine but transmission, brakes, and tire pressures as well.
2: Drive as thoughyou were balancing a hot coffee in your lap. Not necessarily slow,
but definitely s m o o o o t h !...... i.e. you should rarely have to actually stop for a red light.............watch how the big rigs do it.
3: Congratulate yourself on getting the best fuel mileage your truck is capable of!
I have a 1998 2500 V10 Gas Engine.
Yup, you go to the Toyota dealer and buy a Priuis or an Echo. LOL, but seriously, its a V10, it wasn't made for fuel economy. We have a 99 Ram 3500 V10 and I think we average 9 mpg, we stopped looking, was too sickening. We do lay down at night and dream of 15 mpg, probably the closest we'll get to it with that truck.
Since your not losing coolant nor burning oil, I'll bet that the crack is at the valve seat. The valve seat area is inductively hardened at the factory. It's possible that some escaped with improper hardening process. Using poor quality fuels, over heating the engine, or operating the engine for long periods with detonation, will cause cracks at the seats.
Keep us posted.
Best regards,
Dusty
Make sure the trailer has brakes and you have a good brake controller. Let us know if we can help you further.
Wires were an issue with the 5.9L High Energy Ignition System on these bad boys. It is like plugging in a HO Motor on using a small cord. It burns up the spark plugs capabilities. Also, the battery (Yes I am saying battery,) when getting close to being bad will cause a rough idle/miss/skip an can be miss-diagnosed. Putting your system on a scope would be the best way to determine the problem, but unfortunatly not a lot of mechanics do that anymore. I say let the dealership replace the wires if you have over 50,000 miles on the truck, but also have them check your battery as well, especially if it has age on it.
There are other factors possible, but not likely!
Kevin
What could this be? Oh by the way, at idle, it has a very small miss or hiccups but when you step on the gas, its smooth as silk.
Thanks very much for any help, I'm new to Dodge and dont know what to think
slammer55616
Step one would be to check your trouble codes with the On-Off-On-Off-On key sequence. The Check Engine light will flash a sequence representing two-digit niumbers for each code in the computer. (Example: flash-flash pause flash-flash-flash would be a code of 23.) "55" means end of codes, so if that's the only number you get, there is nothing reported to the computer.
Second would be to do the basics: tune-up, air and fuel filters, injector cleaner. Then tet drie where you experience the issues. If they're gone, you just needed some maintenance. If they persist at low rpm, you may need a diagnostic check up from a pro.
kcram - Pickups Host
Please Help, Russ
Thanks
Best regards,
Dusty
The dealer has stated the fuel pump is going out and has taken the injector pump with it. The injector pump price (part only) is being quoted as $2,000.
Total mileage on the vehicle is 120,000.
I am shocked at the price (total quote of $3,000 to repair). Is this a standard range I have to deal with?
If the pump was "going" out, wouldn't there be some sign....like not running smoothly?
What is the recommended maintenance on fuel pumps and/or injector pumps.
The dealer is waiting for a "go-ahead" and I feel like saying "keep it".
moneypit1
Anyone with a similar experience and potential remedies would be appreciated. The truck only has 3000 miles on it but it currently sounds like it has 300,000 miles on it. Needless to say, I am a little disappointed.
Thanks in advance for any comments.