Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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  • wintersong713wintersong713 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dodge PU. I have been experiencing some engine lag when I try to accerate. It lags for several seconds then kicks in. It seems to happen when hot or cold.

    I have found that if I turn off the ignition then restart it, it sometimes helps.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • kwarren2kwarren2 Member Posts: 11
    Although possible, it's highly highly improbable in my opinion. The general quality (from a repeatable manufacturing point of view) of these systems is quite good. My guess is either an external factor is causing damage to it or that they are simply assuming it's damaged. Do you know if they pull them and diagnose them out of the vehicle?
  • rallymonkey89rallymonkey89 Member Posts: 1
    I have been having trouble with my rotors warping when I tow a load. Anyone with help plz reply.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I agree with your post. Dodge trucks do not have this as a common problem. In fact, no truck does.

    There is something obviously damaging the PCMs. The PCM design on Dodge trucks have been around for some time and are nearly bulletproof. The manufacturer should be so easily blamed on this one, but maybe the technical crew needs to do a little more homework.

    Dusty
  • rja54rja54 Member Posts: 3
    My 2005 dodge ram will not shift out of park without me trying it for 2-3 minutes when I first start it up. Can some tell me what the problem is?
  • rja54rja54 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I have a 2005 ram 2500 hemi, and it does not matter how you sit or how you try it only comes out of park when it wants to. The dealer has not fiqured it out. Have you fiqured out anything else. I have drove and tryed many new dodges and none of them do that.
    Ron
  • dmeents1dmeents1 Member Posts: 6
    posted in the past but no response anyone have any ideas >>have a 94 ram 5.2L auto with OD question: truck starts fine and warms up to temp fine but after driving approx 8 miles I lose almost all power and the more gas I give it starts to cough and spit put it in neutral and engine runs fine. the codes I'm getting are 2-37s and 45. can some one point me in the right direction?
  • aaf32461aaf32461 Member Posts: 7
    mine does the samething,i can't figure it out,i get no codes, all sensors check out good,even dealer couldn't find it, i'm wondering about catalytic converter
  • partsman2kpartsman2k Member Posts: 15
    you are having the exact problem i am. i called the dealer and all they could tell me is bring it in and well put it on the dioagnoses machine and MIGHT can find the problem at a cost of $60.00 no garantees.
  • partsman2kpartsman2k Member Posts: 15
    I purchased a 99 ram 1500 about a month ago and every now and then my gauges will all go to zero, odometer will read no bus,all warning lights will come on sometimes it will stay that way, sometimes it will correct itself. I've checked all the fuses and curcit breakers. I've also pulled the cluster out to check for loose connection. No luck yet. I feel like there is a curcit overheating and breaking connection BUT WHERE?????. Dusty can you help?
  • sn2bedogehatersn2bedogehater Member Posts: 2
    I am not sure if they are diagnosing the PCM out of the vehicle I will ask, suposedely they have thoroughly trouble shot the electrical on the truck though and can find no problems this is getting very frustrating one would really think there has to be something eating the PCM's I just wish they would figure it out! Its starting to get hot here and its the only vehicle I own with functioning A/C! LOL Thanks so much for the reply! If you here any more I would appreciate any help I can give to the dealer!
  • joel5joel5 Member Posts: 1
    Dean52

    My 2001 Dodge Ram showed the same symtoms today. "No Bus" displayed where the mileage shows and all the gauges dead. Truck still runs fine, just no gauges. I called three different places and got three different stories, from bad cluster, bad BCM, bad wiring between BCM and cluster, etc. Still trying to sort it out.

    Please update me on what you have been able to learn.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The "No bus" error message means that the communication signal from the PCM has been lost. This could be a failed PCM, a problem with the instrument cluster assembly (a little more likely) or a open circuit from the PCM to the cluster (even more likely). You could have a fuse in the junction block that is failing intermittently, although this is very rare. There are fuses on the instrument cluster itself and I have heard of these failing, but not common. A speed or distance sensor failure can cause loss of a PCI signal.

    There are some tests that can be performed, but it would be necessary to get much to wordy in this forum. What you could do is perform the Instrument Cluster test:

    1. Switch the ignition off.
    2. Press and hold the trip odometer button.
    3. Switch the ignition switch to the "on" position. Do not start the engine.
    4. Keep the odometer button depressed until "CHEC" is displayed in the odometer window. This should take about 10-15 seconds.
    5. Release the odometer button.
    6. An instrument cluster fault will be displayed as a three-digit number. There may be more that one set of numbers displayed.

    110 = A failure has been identified in the instrument cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM.
    900 = The PCI data bus is not operational.
    920 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM.
    921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM.
    940 = The instrument cluster is not receiving an airbag lamp-on message from the Airbag Control nModule (ACM).
    950 = The instrument cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the Anti-lock Brake Controller (CAB).
    960 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a PRND21 message from the Transmission Control Module (TCM).
    999 = An error has been discovered.

    After the instrument cluster fault test is finished, a vacuum fluorescent display, bulb, and analog gauge test will be performed. This is referred to as the "walking test" in Dodge technical parlance. This tests all of the indicator lamps and gauges.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It sounds like a binding problem in the steering column. A qualified technician should be able to diagnose thiss.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • partsman2kpartsman2k Member Posts: 15
    Dear Dusty, I want to thank you for your previous help. I preformed the test with the odometer and came up empty. (no codes) just a little line that seemed to go in circles. Then all the waning lights came on to be checked, and everything went back to normal. I did this test about 3 or 4 times to make sure. Since im not the only on with this problem, if you have anymore suggestions I know a lot of people will appreacte your help,and maybe your letter to me already helped someone else....Keep up the good work Dusty.
  • sandbumssandbums Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 99 ram 2500 quad,V-10 4x4 with auto. When I am driving and turn the ac knob to cold it works fine till I either hit a bump in the road or come to a stop in a hurry.Then I hear a door in the dash shut and I get HOT air. Living in Phoenix the air is hot but not as hot as when your ac shuts down in the middle of the day. If when slowing to stop, I keep the rpm's above idle, The ac works fine. If this were 15 years ago I would assume it to be vacum related. Any ideas as to a fix.....besides going back to driving a FORD ????? Thanks in advance.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Partsman, in my last post I should've suggested that you perform the test immediately after the condition occurs. Then the instrument cluster test might reveal something.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The air and mode doors are operated by stepper motors.

    I would suggest checking the electrical connections to the heater control panel. You might have a loose or intermittent connection. At the moment I can't think of anything else to check. I think it's possible the Central Timer Module could influence this. It might have a bad connection or is intermittent.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • aaf32461aaf32461 Member Posts: 7
    any one have any insight on this , got fuel pressure,sensors check ok , no codes, convertor maybe ?

    ty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    What year and how many miles?
  • aaf32461aaf32461 Member Posts: 7
    1995---104k miles
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A converter may cause this. Because of the year and mileage my first suspect is a vacuum leak, clogged throttle body, or a bad intake manifold gasket.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • aaf32461aaf32461 Member Posts: 7
    i had dealer do intake gasket job about 20k miles ago, they also cleaned throttle body and injectors.
  • aaf32461aaf32461 Member Posts: 7
    this has been an intermitent problem until now, it starts, a little rough idle,as soon as accel is depressed it stalls.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Do you park the truck on a hill???...if I park mine on my inclined driveway, I must be sure to apply the parking brake first...then, I gently remove my foot from the brake pedal and let the vehicle "catch" and be held by the parking brake...then, I shift it into Park as a backup...if I do not do this, all the pressure of holding the truck is on the little pin in the auto trans, and when I go to shift out of Park in the morning, it almost will NOT allow the shift because of the pressure on the trans pin...this is not unusual to me, as I am amazed at the number of folks who will park their vehicle on a hill, shift into Park, allow the car to roll forward a few inches to "catch" on the tranny pin (not the parking brake), and all that holds them from rolling forward is a tiny pin in the trans with very little shear strength...it is a wonder more cars don't keep rolling after the drivers exit...now, all this does not apply if you have a manual trans, but it may help if you have an auto trans...even if you park on a level, if there is too much pressure on the pin, disengaging the trans out of Park (i.e. disengaging the pin with all that internal pressure) may be difficult...is that a possibility for you???
  • lyonsinistarlyonsinistar Member Posts: 4
    Ok I took apart almost all of the dash to try and figure out what the problem is. Thankfully I was able to do so, I just need some insight as to what the part name is and the best way to go about fixing it.

    The air flow breather that opens and closes with the silver cylinder device that has a rod going into it is attached to a plastic piece that regulates airflow, if you move it from say A/C to defrost it will come off, it looks like the plastic piece is broke, (this is located at the bottom center behind what I believe is the computer for the truck.

    I can take a long screwdriver and attach the plastic back to the metal piece but like I said it will not stay if you move from A/C to Defrost to A/C. What I need to know is what that piece is called so I can possibly try to order one and the best way to go about getting underneath there to replace it. Thanks for any and all help.

    :confuse:
  • nathanscottnathanscott Member Posts: 1
    I also just purchased a 2003 Quad Cab with the 4.7 and am having the same problem. I cleaned the throttle body and it didnt help either. I was wondering if you have gotten a solution to the idle problem. I have the same idle (500-600) and also think it should be higher. Any help will be appreciated.
  • jerseybikerjerseybiker Member Posts: 2
    Your problem is definately vacuum related. I had the same problem. When you accelerate and create more vacuum the AC all goes to the defroster. There is a check valve in the engine compartment that you will find the lines coming off the firewall in the middle.
  • magnumforcemagnumforce Member Posts: 3
    I own the same model same problem only @ high speeds and on the freeway. I changed out my u joints had both shafts balanced and changed out the carrier bearing, come to find out after the vibrating became sooo bad it cracked my dash the right rear tire had a bubble that when it became hot from road friction it would expand thus horrible vibration. I changed the rear tires out and it's fine now
  • magnumforcemagnumforce Member Posts: 3
    I own a 96 dodge ram. I maintain it religiously. A couple of years I ago changed out the water pump & radiator + new belt and hoses. This year I noticed the temp was spiking and I was receiving an oil light. I changed out the clutch fan and t stat, flushed the system and refilled the cooling system with fresh fluid. The ambient temp here in Arizona is about 112 Deg right now but this is the first year I've encountered this problem. It happens with or without the A/c on, a little less faster with the A/c off but non the less still happening.
  • ginacginac Member Posts: 7
    We did a lot of digging. We found a great mechanic at a dealer. The PCM was bad on ours as well and did the same thing you describe. We also have a 1999 1500 -
    Yes, they replaced the PCM...but it was something else that was causing the PCM to go bad. The intake valve was clogged and dirty, causing the idle to go to low and consequently die. Sometimes it was so clogged or the heat made it stick, the van could not recover. Other times, we'd wait 10 minutes and it would start up again.
    It is a quick fix to replace the PCM...have to get to the source of what is burning it out though. That's what our mechanic indicated.
    I'm no expert at all...just sharing what I've learned these past couple of weeks.
    Was totally worth calling 5 dealers and "interviewing" the mechanics and service manager via phone before heading in to the dealer. Not all are created equal.
    Good luck!
  • kp1kp1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello smart people in cyberland. Can any one identify what a P 0601 trouble code is. Local dealer pretends not to know. Checked code after check engine light lit. Have noticable idle problem after starting. Otherwise runs and drives good. This question is for a dodge 2002 ram pickup. Thanks for helping.
  • ginacginac Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your reply.
    Looks like you keep busy on this site!

    The PCM was bad...but it was the fuel intake system that was clogged and causing the idle to go too low and making the van die and burning out the PCM.

    Appreciate your insight and knowledge.

    Kind regards,
    ginac
  • trigger2trigger2 Member Posts: 3
    I just picked up my truck from the mechanic tonight and the problem is still occurring. They replaced the Idle Air Motor, but it's still doing the same thing. I've taken it to them twice for this and they can't fix it. This time they reset the Idle Air Motor, but it still didn't fix the problem. Automobiles are a pain. We should all go back to horses.
  • artkjosartkjos Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 quad cab 1500 4.7 SLT 2x4 with the towing package and positrack rearend. This vehicle exhibits odd overheating problem that I cannot seem to solve. Somewhat similar to posting 15003.

    I first noticed this between 25000 miles and 30000 - I had to replace significant amount (3 quarts) of lost cooling fluid. The shop said I had a bad radiator cap, and replaced it. I have back washed the radiator on several occasions to remove bugs etc. Then I noticed that the vehicle was exhibiting overheating. Returned to shop - new thermostat. The problem was reduced - now approaching 60000 miles and new warmer weather I had the shop replace the thermostat and flush the system. However, the vehicle is still overheating (I notice a bit of bypass fluid at the fill reservoir after any driving and an odd smell on occasion. I have notice a bit of fluid loss. The typical symptoms are:

    Running on a relatively flat road the temp gauge is one to two needle widths below center - as the ambient air temperature goes up the gauge moves up - at around 80 the gauge is 2 or 3 needles widths above the center. When going downhill the temp drops below center. If a moderate hill of some length is pulled the temp gauge will run up 1/4 to 1/2 the gauge display to the overheating position. The red check gauges warning light come on at that time. As I back off the run at the top of the hill and run on the flat the temp drops slowly to the more center of the gauge. All of this is with only the driver and no other significant load on the truck.

    Any thoughts?

    Art
  • stannstann Member Posts: 9
    I recently took delivery of a 2005 RAM 3500 Cummins QUAD 4X2 with the 6-speed manual transmission. I bought it after a lot of thought, and a lot of time spent reading the great information available in this forum.
    I love the truck, especially the manual transmission.

    I would be interested in any knowledgeable opinion regarding using the engine/clutch downshifting in order to slow down when necessary in traffic, versus using the brakes. In the long run, (as far as engine, clutch or brake maintenance is concerned) which would be the best way to slow the vehicle?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A P-0601 is listed in the OBD3 chart as an internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. I can't scroll back in the reply mode, but I think your symptom was stalling?

    Okay. I'm not sure how the "fuel intake system" being clogged is defined. However, what I may deduce from this is that something in the intake system was restricting air flow (hence "clogging"). I'm not sure how this would translate to causing a PCM failure, however.

    My first thought was that the Idle Air Control Motor was constantly trying to actuate against it's limit and perhaps caused that output circuit op amp to overheat and fail. I don't know, I would think that the outputs are protected from these possibilities.

    This is one I'd like to understand better, so if you could supply more detail I'd appreciated.

    Glad to hear they got you fixed. That's all that really matters.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • keithm57keithm57 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone recommend a website or manual that shows how do make basic tasks like adjusting the doors? My '96 Dodge Ram 1500 had some body work done and the otherwise great job by the vendor left my driver door very slightly loose so that a drop or two of water will seep in when it rains. The door is centered perfectly, it just doesn't close tight enough. Rather than take the time during working hours to drive it all the way back down there, I'd rather just fix it myself, but a quick inspection of the door latch left me wondering which part to loosen. This is the first time I've had to adjust a door.
    Thanks,
    Keith
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The first thing that should be done is to verify with a shop gauge the actual temperature of the coolant during these fits of overheating. If a shop gauge indicates that it is not really overheating of the coolant is less than what the instrument cluster gauge indicates, you probably have a bad temperature sending unit.

    If it really is overheating then each coolant component must be checked. A pressure test would indicate the release point of the radiator cap. The shop gauge can be used to check the thermostat.

    From what I've read it is possible to get cavitation problems if there is air in the system. You mentioned that you had the system flushed. First, Dodge trucks of that vintage do not use conventional coolant, but one called HOAT. Using ethylene Glygol anti-freeze in a 4.7 will diminish the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator.

    Take some shop readings while idling and at road speed.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mike2006mike2006 Member Posts: 1
    Would it be possible to put a Cummings Deisel Engine into a 94 1500??
  • peppep Member Posts: 4
    Hi Art
    If you ever solve this puzzle (LOL) please let me know.
    Did your engine lose power?
  • cjd3cjd3 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my ram for about 9 months now and love it. I was talking to a friend here are work and he mentioned that if you hear a and I quote "gravel running down a pipe" noise when a low speed high rpm and when you are at about 2000 and punch it that this is really bad for the engine. I am suffice to say a novice when it comes to cars but I am learning. I have been using 87 but switched to 89 and the noise has seemed to lessen and I hope it goes away. Could someone let me know if I ruined my truck?
  • tbeardtbeard Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Dodge Ram and we have had it for about five years and have loved it. In January of 05 one morning my dash lights went out then came back on then next day went out again and stayed out. Then I noticed my dash board smoking then I lost my head lights and tail lights. But I have Brake Lights and turn signals. I have been working on this for a very long time and getting very frustrated. On the dashboard where you pull the light on there is a box that connects to another box with all the wires form the truck that go in to it. some of the wires are melted.

    What can I do to get tail lights and dash light, How Do I isolate the problem. Please help- I am losing my hair on this one. :sick:
  • artkjosartkjos Member Posts: 2
    No loss of power that I noticed - but sure makes me nervous when driving in the summer in the mountains. I also have my shop researching.

    Art
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    You need a new light switch aseembly. Overheated switches are a regular [problem on many brands of trucks... Ram 3500s were even recalled to install a more HD switch because of the extra marker lights. Dealer techs do this one all the time, so it shouldn't be a big bill.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    In a word, no.

    The Cummins diesel is far too heavy for the 1500 front suspension, and neithger that nor the rest of the driveline can handle the torque. By the time you upfit all the necessary components on a 1500, you could have trade for a 2500 diesel and had plenty of cash left over.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • pam8pam8 Member Posts: 4
    The first gear on my truck suddenly went out yesterday. The truck drives fine until you accelerate after stopping. It sticks for a moment then moves on. I took it to a mechanic and he said that the first gear is gone. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems with the Dodge Rams.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    What year is the truck?
  • rja54rja54 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks will take this into the dodge dealership.
    Ron
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