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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bloodlanbloodlan Member Posts: 5
    Someone please give me info. Ive got a 318 and it starts hard, hot or cold. Just gave it a tune up and it didn't help. Do i go after the fuel pump or the fuel filter next? Or has someone else had this problem with a different outcome. We dont have lots of funds to try all.
  • naturebnatureb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 4X4. I only have defrost and floor or off. I check the vacuum hose and even switched the hose over to the vent to see it I have a hole in a hose. No luck. I can push the vent and bi-level arm and I get the air coming out but as soon a I release it goes back to defrost and floor. I wanted to see if it could be the controller, hoses or if there is another piece that I am overlooking. Any help would be great.
  • tom52tom52 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 ram 2500 4x4 5.9 engine 80,000 miles After the truck sits a couple hours it will backfire and lose power within the first mile of driving. As soon as I turn the ignition off and restart it the problem is gone for as long as I drive it. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it and am getting air in the fuel rail. If I bleed the air off it will run great. The fuel pressure never drops though, and there are no fuel leaks. I replaced the fuel pump, modulator, and sending unit in the tank, but it still does it. Was wondering if any else has had the same problem. Tom
  • tgegnertgegner Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, the driver's side u-joint is broken. After taking the tire and rotor off, I can't get the housing off because it is rusted to. I tried putting 2 bolts in and using a hammer and punch to get them apart (advice from pavementsucks.com), but it is stuck. Does anyone have a better idea or a different way to change the u-joint, besides taking it to a dealer? Thank you for your help! I am completely stuck here!!
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    until I saw it on another Ram truck...rear end cover looked like aluminum (or steel?) with about 5-7 fins for heat dissipation...while not trying to be a-retentive (ok, yes I am), would it be worth installing a finned rear end cover on my 2004 Ram Hemi to dissipate heat???...since I expect to keep this truck over 10 years, anything that might add longevity is considered...and, since the truck has the towing package, solely for the add'l transmission cooler, would the rear end cover be wise???if yes, where does one find those things???...dealer or indep auto parts store??? :shades:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ..................would the rear end cover be wise?

    I don't know about wise, but it certainly won't do any harm. I also don't know if they're available aftermarket, but I'm sure a Google search will tell you.

    You know you want to do it, so go ahead. Worst outcome will be a little lightening of the wallet! ;)
  • dmr2dmr2 Member Posts: 3
    The best way I know to get to the U-joint is to remove the brake caliper and rotor, then the axel hub nut (remove the cotter pin first), and then there are three bolts holding the hub assembly together on the back side that need removed... Then the Hub assembly should come off and then pull the axel shaft out and then go to town on the U-joint. NOTE: The Hub assy is installed with sealant to the contact surfaces, so maybe thats why it is being difficult to remove...

    You didn't say if you removed the axel hub nut or the three mounting bolts or not, so I just threw those at you just in case... I'm "stuck" on getting the axel hub nut off. I removed the cotter pin, but I can't get that bolt off to save my life it seems. Any suggestions there???

    I found the problem with my front axel finally... The right front Hub Bearing is completely shot... and so I guess when I turn the steering wheel to the left, it created the noise I was hearing. The Hub Assembly and Hub Bearing, I learned, are one complete unit. Now that I'm trying to replace the (Hub Bearing Assembly), I'm stuck on removing the axel hub nut... Any suggestions???
    --Dave
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    What year and how many miles?

    Dusty
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Allow me to clarify...while I know that a transmission oil cooler will lower the general operating temperature of the tranny, as it is like a mini-radiator for the tranny, and cooler means longer=lasting...

    Are the "cooling" fins on the rear end cover just to look cool (sorry, no pun intended... :shades: ) or do they truly dissipate sufficient heat that the operating temp of the rear is actually lowered so that it, too, suffers from less "heat exhaustion"???... :confuse: :confuse: :surprise:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It should work because (i), aluminum is a better conducter of heat than steel, and (ii), the fins give a greater surface area to dissipate the heat. Finally, use a good quality full synthetic oil to refill the axle with. It will run cooler and be less likely to breakdown at high temps.

    If you want to take it further you'll have to add a cooler and circulation pump (just like they do in race cars!)...................or have I just made the decision harder? :P
  • bloodlanbloodlan Member Posts: 5
    I have a 97 with around 88000 miles. Engine runs great otherwise.
  • fitzhugh1fitzhugh1 Member Posts: 2
    There is a TSB out there 'TSB 09-05-00' that describes a fix for a leaking air intake manifold gasket. I was adding oil every 250 miles (without blue smoke) before I got mine fixed. Cost about $500 to fix.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If it runs good otherwise, I'd start by looking at your fuel system pressure and spark energy at start up. If those are fine there are a host of other things to check, especially vacuum leaks or an inoperative Idle Air Control motor (or solenoid).

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • vette76vette76 Member Posts: 2
    Reposted with corrections:

    My 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L) has what sounds like the exact same problem. Mine does everything above without the "no bus" message but with the lights staying on long after the key was out of the ignition. It seems like the truck doesn't realize the ignition is in the off position and that the key is out of the ignition switch. I checked all the wiring until I found burn marks on the ground prongs in the AC ignition switch. Replaced AC ignition switch. Still problems.
    Found more burn marks on wire connectors that had wires running to the AC ignition switch.

    If anyone else out there has this problem, I'd like to know what you did too.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    No, you have not made it difficult...I do not need the circulation pump, that is truly overkill...but if the fins really do dissipate heat, then it is like adding a K&N air filter, not necessary, but an improvement over the OEM unit...when fluids are changed at 25K miles, then a new cover makes sense...it is only a one time expense, then last the life of the truck...we expect to keep this 10 years, so useful improvements are, well, useful... :):D;)
  • mcgizzlemcgizzle Member Posts: 2
    Same problem here, 2001 5.9 quad cab died yesterday while idling and hasn't started since. (came home on the hook)
    Message reads "no bus" = PCM not communicating
    Ran through on/off/on/off... no trouble codes?
    Ran trip reset / key on "walking test"
    Cluster Faults:
    920 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM.
    921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM.
    999 = An error has been discovered.

    Hooked up Hypertech Programmer (also reads codes) "Failed to retrieve VIN"
    The only solution I have seen is to replace the PCM $$$ and even that is sometimes short-lived because the underlying problem still exists.
    If anyone has any ideas or solutions any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Before changing the PCM try unplugging and remaking the connections, both on the instrument cluster and the PCM, as a high resistance or open connection can give the same codes.
  • mcgizzlemcgizzle Member Posts: 2
    If you're still following this thread I would be interested in how things are going, as I have the same problem "EXACTLY"... heres a copy of my post Post # 192

    ..."Same problem here, 2001 5.9 quad cab died yesterday while idling and hasn't started since. (came home on the hook)
    Message reads "no bus" = PCM not communicating
    Ran through on/off/on/off... no trouble codes?
    Ran trip reset / key on "walking test"
    Cluster Faults:
    920 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM.
    921 = The instrument cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM.
    999 = An error has been discovered.
    Hooked up Hypertech Programmer (also reads codes) "Failed to retrieve VIN"
    The only solution I have seen is to replace the PCM $$$ and even that is sometimes short-lived because the underlying problem still exists.
    If anyone has any ideas or solutions any help would be greatly appreciated...."
  • jbrandtjbrandt Member Posts: 1
    I backed into my tractor with my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500. Put a dent in the tailgate but it works ok. Later, I noticed that the ABS light was on and the brake light was on. I drove about 10 miles and the speedometer quit working. What could the dent in the tailgate have to do with all that? I took the battery loose for a bit and put it back on and the lights still stay on. Any suggestion or solutions?
  • garyh4garyh4 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 1997 DODGE RAM 2500 THAT SHIMMIES WHILE BRAKING. ANY HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH SOLUTIONS?
  • 96dodge96dodge Member Posts: 12
    i have a 96 4x4 dodge and i bought it second hand , right after i bought it i was going to work and the light came on and soon the oil pressure dropped to nothing so i had it towed home . my problem was sludge in the pan clogged the oil pump strainer, it did this 2 times the second time i flushed the motor out and it took care of the problem.
  • 96dodge96dodge Member Posts: 12
    my 96 1500 did that and i had the rotors turned and i put new pads on and that took care of the problem.
  • giantinasiagiantinasia Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 RAM 1500 2WD and I have had shuddering over bumps at 30K miles and now again at 70K miles. The first time I had this problem I had a shop replace the front-end sway bar end links. That took care of the problem. fThey told me this part used to be greaseable but now they come sealed without grease fittings. But now the shuddering is back and I plan to go back to the same shop and have them look at it again
  • nobullnobull Member Posts: 7
    the front rotors are probably warped either remove and have them trued or replace them also put new brake pads on
  • asmira25asmira25 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 dodge ram 4x4 and it has a 360 in it and the truck has now started to rev the engine while it sits in my drive way. I also notice that the engine revs while driving too, like the engine misses. I drove thru the mountains and at 20000 rpms it would lose power. I am looking to see if someone could help me figure the problem so I can fix it :(
  • 96dodge96dodge Member Posts: 12
    does anyone out there know where i can find an ashtray ( black) and a fuse panel cover for a 96 dodge 1500 laramie ive tried junk yard dog and didnt have any luck, other than the dodge dealership which they think they are made of gold
    thanks
  • ruderruder Member Posts: 3
    I don't know a thing about cars, so this is going to be pretty vague...I am just looking for some help so I don't get taken by a dealership or service center. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with about 68K miles on it. I have recently been hearing a clicking noise from under the hood...sounds kinda like a piece of metal is being dragged and bumped up and down under the car when I am driving. Only happens when I hit about 2500 RPMs. Last night my check engine light came on for the first time ever. I know this is really vague, but maybe there is an owner out there who ran into something similar and may know exactly what my problem is. Just figured I would check since I am a sitting duck going into a dealership with my truck. Any help out there?

    gr
  • e1101e1101 Member Posts: 3
    Dunno if this will help but my girlfriend has a 97 of the same model. I replaced her distributor and developed the same issuse as you are hiving. Turns out I had left off one of the spark plug wires off from the distributor.

    May not be your problem, but doesn't cost anything to check the wires at the plugs and at the distributor.
  • e1101e1101 Member Posts: 3
    1997 Dodge RAM 1500 PU, 5.(?)L

    This is her truck. Serious overheating issue. Could not get more than a few miles before the temp started to rise, would eventually have to pull over because the temp gauge would red line. Could run a long time on the freeway before getting hot enough to stop, but could not run the AC or it would over heat in a few minutes.

    I replaced the t-stat with a 195 degree temp. I have had several people tell me all different types of temps, went with what the auto parts store suggested. Replaced the gasket as well, applied RTV sealer. Also did flush and fill. Still got hot.

    Replaced water pump, gasket, used RTV, still got hot.
    Replaced radiator and radiator cap, and it ran perfect for three months. Could run AC on side roads, stop lights, etc. AC blows cold, no difference in driving when the AC is running.

    Eventually it started leaking from the pump when turned off. Removed the pump and found a portion of the gasket was blown out. Also missing O ring from coolant return tube. (small metal tube from block to top of pump.) Sanded all surfaces CLEAN, put in O ring, replaced gasket, filled with coolant. I cranked it three times and let it idle, adding coolant as needed. Temp went to normal, no leaks when turned off. She drove it the next day and it had sucked up all the water from the overfill bottle but the temp gauge never rose above 200.

    She says it's only happening when she runs the AC. My suspicion is the AC needs servicing. Is there something I could do to it myself? AC is sooo friggin' expensive here in TX, especially in JULY. When I worked in a shop, I never did AC work... I noticed that the guys who did, added refrigerant oil to the compressor... am I mistaken about that?
  • ruderruder Member Posts: 3
    Thank you. My buddy had an old Dodge Spirit from way back in the day in high school...said he had the same sound coming out and took it to his uncle's dealership and said it was exactly what you said. Hopefully that's all it is...I heard that was pretty easy and cheap to fix. If anyone else has an idea of what it potentially could be though, I would appreciate the feedback. Thanks!

    gr
  • 96dodge96dodge Member Posts: 12
    i had about the same problem with my 96 dodge and it was my fan clutch wasnt working right, it would run hot while i was in town stopping at red lights but on the interstate it would run normal you may want to check it out it could be your problem
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    And for those that may not know, the clicking sound is the spark jumping from the wire to the grounded engine block or cylinder head...if that is the problem, you may find an increase in performance because once fixed, the engine will be running on all cylinders, rather than 5 of 6 or 7 of 8...do not confuse this concept with Star Trek's 7 of 9, because she was always running on all of her cylinders, if you catch my cosmic drift...I just slay me, don't I???... :P ;) :shades:

    Seriously, be sure to check the wire to be attached to the plug, and if it is attached, check for a broken plug insulator or a broken wire either where it attaches to the plug at the female socket, or the insulator where you grip to remove the wire from the plug...also, with 68K miles, it is possible that any one wire has had its insulation heated and cooked so that it has hardened and cracked, allowing any part of the wire to allow a spark to escape and shoot to the block...while wires should last longer, one bad wire can be a problem...if one wire is bad, buy a new set and you will be good for another 75K miles, easily worth your hard earned $$$... ;)
  • coastie_itcoastie_it Member Posts: 1
    I don't know the answer to the problem, but my 99 Ram is doing the exact same thing. I didn't back into anything, it just started having the problems. My speedometer doesn't kick in until I hit 20 MPH. If you find an answer please let me know. Thanks,
  • luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    i have a 1998 ram 3500 van i its rear end is making a loud noise but it doesn,t hurt gas mileage or seem to hurt anything else should or is there anything i can do to get rid of this noise
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Since this discussion is really for the Ram pickups, you may want to ask over in Full Sized Vans.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • roper2roper2 Member Posts: 61
    In the 4.7 ram engine would it be ok to change oil useing full synthetic at 6000 miles? Ihave heard this engine likes to sludge up sometimes. thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Check the speed sensor. My first guess is that it's bad (intermittent).

    regards,
    Dusty
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Member Posts: 4
    Well I fixed an overheating problem with a new thermostat!Yaaa! Truck started great int he morning, but as soon as it warmed up it decided it did not want to start or so I thought. If I crank the starter and hold it, it will eventually fire up. It does bang and ping irradically but then finally catches with a roar of the engine(?) I popped the hood and heard an awful sound while it is idling crazily, it is a load hissing noise that goes away once the engine calms down. There is also black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, however it stops once the engine calms down and starts idling properly.
    I know this is long, sorry.
    Any suggestions on what to try? PCV valve already checked.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. Have you checked or replaced the fuel pressure regulator?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I don't think that's quite true. The only issue I've seen and heard about is some sludge forming under the oil fill cap. To the best of my knowledge anything beyond that has never been confirmed here at Edmunds. Of course, the 4.7 has been so reliable that there are darn few that have been taken apart to see if sludging has appeared any where else.

    The issue with sludge at the oil fill is because the oil fill tube is plastic and runs quite cool compared to the engine block. In the winter the moisture that forms in the oil is condensed in this area because the PCV valve is pulling internal engine vapors into the plastic fill tube. The moisture being much warmer than the plastic body of the oil fill tube causes oil contaminated moisture to collect in this area.

    The first year I had mine I saw a light accumulation of sludge in this area, but the following two winters I have driven more daily miles and it hasn't collected any sludge there. Short trip driving, infrequent oil changes, or an engine not coming up to operating temperature for very long will cause moisture to form in the motor oil, which causes sludge.

    When I talked to my friendly Dodge technician about this a while ago, he said that the only 4.7 they had apart for a noisy lifter reveal a very clean engine inside even though there was a fair amount of sludge in the oil fill tube.

    Use a good oil, change frequently, and avoid short trip driving.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Member Posts: 4
    No I haven't and I will take that into consideration. I wonder how that would cause the loud "hissing" noise upon start-up?
  • dodgegirldodgegirl Member Posts: 5
    My husband is going to be changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 02 Ram Quad 4x4 and is wondering if there are any step by step instructions that we can find on the internet. He is fairly mechanically inclined (former diesel mechanic, now truck driver) and has not changed fluid in truck before. Local transmission shops are booked solid and we are leaving in 11 days to go to the dunes and want to get this done before we go. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for any advice.
  • wreckwreck Member Posts: 4
    Tell the dealer to check the sensor in the cat. The noice is the sensor gone bad.. This is your problem.
  • ruderruder Member Posts: 3
    They ran the scanner on the computer and came up with a code P1740. Apparently that has to do with my torque converter. I took it to the dealership and the guy got in and we took it for a spin. Said the noise just sounded like some engine clatter...had nothing to do with the check engine light. He ran it through a bunch of diagnostics and said he couldn't find anything wrong with the torque converter or anything in my transmission at all.

    He basically just turned the check engine light off and told me to let him know if it comes back on. Said the computer might have registered a problem with the torque converter once and turned on the light...but that the light should have turned back off once the truck went through five or six clean trips with no problems. We drove it long enough that he registered ten clean trips, so he just said it should have gone off already...so he turned it off and told me to let him know if it comes back on again.

    gr
  • chowder63chowder63 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota CC :sick:

    I have had this no bus problem the last two weeks. It has died on me at idle and at 70 mph. Then the No bus comes up. Usually i can res tart it but some times i have to wait a little while before re starting.. I tried the diag and came up with no code or errors. Comes up clean. Checked for lose wires, etc. Nothing seems bad. Has anybody come up with a real fix as of yet.. It is driving me nuts
    and i dont feel like giving the dealer another 1,000. How much does a used PCM go for? I just dont want to spend the $$$ for something that is not going to fix it. Any help would be great.

    Bob
  • tnvol1tnvol1 Member Posts: 1
    DID you find the problem yet.My 360 does the same thing and i heard it is possibly the throttle position sensor or speed sensor...
  • harts1harts1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 Ram 1500 conversion van. i have water (rain, car wash, etc) that leaks through the firewall above the gas pedal. any ideas? no debris clogging up anything.

    harts1 :confuse:
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Couldn't remember what topic it was, but since this is regarding the Dodge with the Cummins engines, I thought I would post it here.

    Somewhere I read someone mention using what ever filter a person desires.
    While this is mostly true, Chrysler released a service bulletin regarding oil filters and damage to the Cummins engines.

    Engine - Some Oil Filters May Cause Damage
    NUMBER: 09-004-01
    THIS BULLETIN INVOLVES 1989-2001 MY 2500 AND 3500 RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH THE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE.
    DISCUSSION:
    Customer may complain of high oil consumption, grey oil smoke coming out of the exhaust or breather tube, or mechanical knocking. Neoprene compounds used internally in the manufacture of oil filters not recommended by DaimlerChrysler may separate from the filter, lodge in the piston cooling nozzle, and can fail the engine.

    NOTE: THIS IS NOT AN ENGINE DEFECT.

    NOTE: SECTION 2.7 OF THE TRUCK WARRANTY MANUAL STATES "DAIMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR FAILURES RESULTING FROM IMPROPER REPAIR OR THE USE OF PARTS WHICH ARE NOT GENUINE DAIMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION / MOPAR OR DIAMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION / MOPAR APPROVED PARTS." DAMAGES CAUSED BY THE USE OF OIL FILTERS NOT APPROVED BY DAIMLERCHRYSLER MAY NOT BE COVERED BY THE NEW VEHICLE WARRANTY. DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECOMMENDS THE FOLLOWING OIL FILTERS. DO NOT USE ANY OIL FILTER CONTAINING NEOPRENE. PLEASE SHARE THIS WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS.

    RECOMMENDED OIL FILTERS FOR USE WITH CUMMINS 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE:

    Mopar 05016547AC
    Fleetguard Stratopore LF3894
    Fleetguard Microglas LF3552
    Fleetguard Cellulose LF3959
    Cummins Cellulose 3937695
    Motorcraft Cellulose FL896
    Purolator Cellulose L45335
    AC Delco Cellulose PF1070
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    In my experience differentials generally only get real hot on highway driving at longer durations. In that scenario a finned cover probably does offer some temperature reduction. For around town or average driving I'm guessing the benefit would be marginal at best.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    dusty: thanks...right now this truck does city running, but will eventually travel on the road...may be worthwhile to change cover when I change fluid...

    dodgegirl: this is not to take anything away from your husband's talent, but draining the tranny and changing filter usually only changes about 3-4 quarts, I believe, of fluid...the remaining 10-12 quarts in the torque converter stays old and dirty...now that we have backflushing, they can change ALL the fluid by backflushing...you do not need a tranny-only shop, any repair shop has the equipment...Goodyear/Gemini shops are full service, and many tire shops or muffler shops have expanded into offering fluid changes...ask around, but do get it backflushed...then have a nice trip... :shades: :shades:
This discussion has been closed.