Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

dustyk · August 2005

First, the transmission was replaced, so it appears that Dodge has fulfilled their obligation to you on that issue. Requiring bearings on a 360 at 44K is pretty, pretty rare. Don't know what to tell you.

For the rough running problem, what service or maintenance have you performed. For that year and engine I think you needed spark plugs at 36,000 miles. A six year old truck typically needs ignition components changed by this time, specifically distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. this could explain the low gas mileage, too.

The Engine and ABS lamps being illuminated could mean a number of things, but yes, this symptom is almost always either the rear wheel sensor and/or the speed sensor. I'd bet on the rear wheel sensor on the differential housing.

Based on my experience...with Dodge or any other make...your six year-old truck is not what I would call a lemon. The engine bearings are definitely an anomaly for a Dodge. The transmission is unfortunate, but it appears to be infant mortality. Your other issues are just so very common in any brand vehicle.

Get a tune-up and see where your at with the engine performance problem. If that doesn't cure it, come on back and we'll try to help you.

Regards,
Dusty

P.S. Can you do any maintenance or repair work yourself?

jcrawford1 · August 2005

I have a 2001 Ram 1500 318 with 50,000, with trailer package. The tranny will shift out of first early, then skip back to first real fast when it realises it is too slow for second. This only happens with light acceleration, or if I let off while in first, then reapply throttle, as when turning a corner after starting off. Medium acceleration and heavy are fine.

Sometimes, if I do not put in more throttle, it will skip shift several times before settleing down in second. I had the band adjustment at 35,000 as per manual. Dodge says they can not duplicate.Temperature not a factor. Does not do this when valve body manually shifted.

Vacum signal is OK, when observed in situ it is normal range with no flux. I suspect the throttle angle cable adjustment may be out of rig with computed shift point.

I am a muscle car builder, but not familiar with this computer assited gear except in theory.

Any ideas?

jcrawford1 · August 2005

I have a 2001 1500 club cab. My dash broke up yhe day I bought it. It had 35000 on it. The dealer refused to replace it, said the warranty did not cover "trim"

I have looked the truck over well. I found some loose bolts on the front and top of the right body to fender mounts, and in the front of the right fender where it bolts to the radiator mounting bulkhead. Other than that, no other defects. I do not think that this was allowing for undue body flex.

I am at a loss to explain it. I have thought about thermal differential fracturing with the ac on and a hot truck, but I cannot accept that as a cause just yet.

Anybody else?

bob554 · August 2005

Dusty,

Thanks, you got me looking in the right direction, when you said the problems might be related.
Replaced the oil pressure sender, (dodge calls it an oil sensor), it has a three pin connector on it, so I am guessing it sends a signal to the computer. Any way it not only fixed the gauge, but also fixed the engine problem. I have driven it 400 miles since the fix with no problems.
FYI, Dodge wants $214.00 for the sensor, after a few calls I was able to get a wholesale price of $168.00. A little expensive for an oil pressure sender, but it fixed the problem so I am happy.

Thanks again

Bob554

firetruckbill · August 2005

Hi, I am new to this site and I need HELP! I have a 2002 Dodge 1500 5.9 engine and I am having a couple of strange problems and hope someone out there has some expertise in these areas. It started with a misfire on #1 cylinder. Have changed spark plugs, wires, magnetic pickup, ejector, cleaned ejector line and still have miss. Took it to the dealer and they said might have bad valve, but compression checked good. I have checked valve spring, lobe on cam, fuel pump pressure, everything seems to be okay. Now my service engine light gives me a fan relay. Fan on a/c condenser is not coming on and blower motor goes on and off at will. If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks Bill

gwp46 · August 2005

I also have a 03 quad-cab with the 4.7 engine, when it was under warranty i had the dealer replace the alternater,belt,and still have clicking noise at 64k miles,was told it be the fuel injecters.The dealer was not sure what it is. Sorry not much help, but if it is any comfort you are not alone

nplesea · August 2005

Try checking the lower control arms. On the front mount on the inside there is a indicator arrow stamped in what looks like a washer( you may need to use a wire brush to clean off the gunk and road grime) . Now on the mount it self there are 5 or 6 "dash marks" stamped in place. If both side don't match that could be your problem. if they are not you can loosen the nut and rotate the bolt/washer assembly. If you are not a DIY-ER, just take it to reputable suspension or tire shop. They will be able to fix the issue. Oh yeah and if the shop says it will be more that 30-45 dollars for an alignment, try another shop. I have a 2000 1500 w/3 in lift and I had a shop tell me it would be 80 for alignment because it was lifted! Needles to say they lost my business. Hope I helped, if not sorry!

dustyk · August 2005

I agree with your suspicion about the throttle valve cable.

First, look at the transmission on the side where the cooling lines enter the case. Just above and slightly to the front you will see a small stamped metal pivot arm with the throttle valve cable attached. This is the throttle pressure arm. There should be a small return spring attached to that arm. It might be missing or broken.

If that's okay, check for binding by moving the throttle cable at the arm. When released, the return spring should bring the throttle cable all the way back to it's internal stop. If it doesn't the spring might be too weak or there is an abrasion or kink in the cable, or something is restricting the cable's movement at the throttlebody.

Next you can check the throttle valve cable adjustment by observing the cable movement at both the transmission and throttlebody ends. When the throttlebody shaft is moved, there should be instantaneous movement of the cable on the throttle pressure arm on the transmission. If the the throttle lever arm moves ahead of, or lags behind movement of the throttlebody lever, the throttle valve cable is out of adjustment.

Adjustment: This is a little difficult to describe without pictures, but at the throttlebody end there is a bracket that supports the throttle valve cable. On one side of the bracket will be a small black plastic adjustment coupling that has very small rectangular holes. The slack in the cable is adjusted by removing a small plastic clip and repositioning it into another hole until the lag in the cable is eliminated. This may take several tries, but I've found that when the clip is removed and both the throttlebody and throttle pressure arms are at the idle stops there is one hole that the clip will slip into.

Good luck.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · August 2005

The real way to check for a bad valve is to perform a leak-down test. A compression test by itself is not conclusive.

Have you checked the coil?

Regards,
Dusty

juffa · August 2005

I own a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Dana rear axle. Recently I began to hear a clunk sound coming from the rear drivetrain area and it increases directly proportional to my speed. Now up until yesterday I could only hear the sound when I accelerate, but today I also could hear it when my foot was off the gas as well as when braking. It's getting LOUD, any suggestions? :confuse:

Thankx, Scott

dustyk · August 2005

I forgot to mention that this symptom can be caused by a bad Throttle Position Sensor.

Regards,
Dusty

jcrawford1 · August 2005

Thanks Dusty. Info much clearer than Dodge book. Will advise for your records.
Jim

jcrawford1 · August 2005

About TPS, was thinking of this, know that it has to be bad for a certian period of time before code latches. Ran into this with IROC. Only bad at 70mph, must have worn it out!
Can you tell me where to find the resistance specs or voltage readings in circuit?
Jim

bernard5 · August 2005

Hi,
I face a curious problem with my RAM 1500 2005. The gearbox lever is completely blocked in the Park position. Pushing reeeeally hard on the brake pedal does not change anything.
Does anyone got an idea on this kind of issue ?

Thanks for your help

Bernie :confuse:

patrick11 · August 2005

Dodge is aware of the problem. If you bring your truck into the dealer they will replace part of the front end and install a steering stabilizer. I had the same problem. No problems now.

patrick11 · August 2005

I'm looking for information on performance modifications for 5.7 Hemi. What are H.P. increases/mileage increases/torque increases for FIPK installs, exhaust, chips?
I was smoked by an F150. Granted I had a full load in the bed, but I can't have it happen again.

mikey11 · August 2005

I have a 2000 Ram 1500 quad cab, it has 71,000 miles, and everytime i put it into reverse its cause a huge jerk in the truck and its pretty loud.....Someone told me it might be the U joints?????

tommie02 · August 2005

i had same thang happen to me i pulled oil pan and clean screen and took metal off so screen bigger on oil pump works great now

stevew21 · August 2005

I have a 02 Ram 1500 that I have had in the shop twice for the same problem. The AC stops blowing cold air. It works fine then once in a while it stops blowing cold air and it turns to warmer air. The shop said this was a problem with this year and they reset the computer. But the problem still comes back. Anyone know a solution?

lidorimo · August 2005

when u drive the truck and accelerate the throttle stays at the same rpm untill u let of and reapply, the truck is a automatic and doesn't auto shift untill u let off the accerlator, so like when going from 0-60 rpm's stay high then when u let off it drops the rpm and then shifts and aslo sometimes stalls going from drive to reverse i find that strange

jfielder · August 2005

I read in your discussion boards that the dash problem with the ABS and Airbag idiot lights could be related to the rear speed sensor on my 1998 Dodge 1500 PU. I called the dealer and got a new sensor for $35.50. It however was a dogleg right switch as opposed to the dogleg left switch that I took out (fortunately there was enough wire to make the connection - with a bit of mods). Problem is no fix. So I tracked down another speed sensor in the bottom of the tranny cover. Should I have a go at this one next?

KCRam · August 2005

Stop by the new Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification Board.

kcram - Pickups Host

carl2513 · August 2005

Have a problem that the dealership is having a hard time figuring out. I have a 2004 Dodge 1500 QC Hemi that the cruise control works fine up to 50 mph, but after 50 mph the cruise control light doesn't come on or work at all. Also my speedometer seem to be off 5 to 7 miles an hour. Any help would be appreciated. They have replaced the rear differential and the PCM. It all started when I brought it in because the ABS and Brake light were on and the ABS motor was always running even when the truck was shut off. They replaced the ABS motor and then the problems started.

packrat3 · August 2005

I suspect to have a defective fuel pump. I have a 1995 Ram 1500 4X4, 360cid, auto trans with 165,000 miles. Prior to dropping the tank (it presently has 30-31 gallons of fuel on board) and replacing the pump (expensive - about $260), I would like to verify the problem. The vehicle had been running fine. One morning it failed to start but it cranked fine. I switched the fuel pump and horn relays. The horn would still function indicating the fuel pump relay was not the problem. I could not find a valve on the fuel rail to see if there was fuel pressure at the injectors. I did spray some starting fluid into the air filter box and the engine would fire momentarily. After many attempts (over several days) it did start and I moved it into the garage. Are there any other tests that can be performed to confirm the problem?

schmedly · August 2005

I'm no mechanic but, that sounds just like what happened to mine when it went out. It ran fine, then nothing. It wouldn't start. It quit without warning. I understand that a major contributing factor to the fuel pump failure is letting the tank run low on gas too often. The pump is cooled by the fuel that it is sitting in.

dontknow1 · August 2005

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with a magnum 6. Here is the problem I get alot of noise out of I think it is the front end. I have changed out the front hubs, tires, and had a front end alignment. When I am driving straight the is a loud groaning sound, if I turn left it gets worse if I turn right it quits. I can not find anything with play in the front end. Can any one help with this problem.

cbriancobb · August 2005

I have a 99 Dodge ram 2500 with a 5.9l gas engine. I am have problems with it running. It started one day driving donw the interstate all of a sudden the engine cut out and died then picked its self back up and started. Since then it has only gotten worse. It will spit and sputter then pick its self back up and sometimes it will take a while of cranking over before it will start. I have replaced the fuel pump, PCM, and fuel pump relay. I have taken it to the dealer and they have plugged it into the computer and they are getting nothing it is not comunicating with the truck. They have no idea whats wrong with it, but it will barely run at all anymore, got any suggestions?

vvalentin · August 2005

Whenever I put my truck in gear I hear a ticking noise similar to valve tapping. It stops when I have it in park.

Any Ideas as to what is causing this?? :confuse:

wcabaniss · August 2005

Hello,
I have a new dodge diesel 2500 with 9000 miles. I was going about 40 mph and hit a small bump in the road. All of a sudden my steering wheel was going back and forth and the truck was vibrating tremendously. I pulled over and looked at the tires and they were OK. I started driving again and everything seemed normal.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

raithe_71 · August 2005

Would this apply to my problem? I have a 1999 RAM 1500 Quad 4X4. I have the Check Engine , (ABS), and BRAKE lights on. A local Tune up shop ran Diagnostics and reported a code P0720 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction. My Speedometer and Tach work fine. My idle is eratic and during acceleration it sometimes has a loss of power and then runs. While keeping the accelerator steady the RPMs are eratic like the idle. Would it be the Speed Sensor on the Tranny or the sensors on the axles? Should I try all three? Any help would be appreciated greatly.

hrking34 · August 2005

Check the idler belt pulley

pscarb · August 2005

I have a 2001 Ram 1500. It has the 5.9 liter engine and 51,000 miles. I bought it used a couple of months ago.
I have put new....plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and K&N air filter. The truck came with a Flowmaster muffler going thru stock tail pipe. I recently added a 52 millimeter spacer under the throttle body (supposed to improve throttle response and add 1 or 2 miles per gallon) and I put new tires and front end alignment.
PLEASE someone tell me why am I getting only 11 miles per gallon????
I keep my foot out of the accelerator to help but I wanna drive it now and then.
The truck starts and idles and accelerates like brand new and the engine light is not on.....any ideas or is this normal?

tatts · August 2005

1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4

The other day my CHECK ENGINE light came on. Later that same day, my transmission wouldnt change gears (stuck in either first or second, Im not sure) A diagnosis at Auto Zone advised my speed sensor was malfunctioning.

Is this somthing I can replace myself? Anyone have any insight into this problem?? Thanks in advance!!!

sagenjuniper · August 2005

Here is a difficult one, hope someone knows the answer. So the is question do I bypass the starter relay and jumper the ignition switch directly to the starter and eliminate the headaches without harming any other part of the truck? Below is the troubleshooting: The starter won't turn over on a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel w/automatic. Step 1: Confirm Starter Relay ok. Step 2: Confirm "all" fuses are ok. Step 3: Confirm Ignition switch is ok by turning the key to the on position and locating the "hot" connection at the relay terminal. This confirms that power is delivered to the starter relay and the ignition switch is ok. Then jumper directly to the starter connection and the starter will turn over (this step is done via the starter relay terminal). Step 4: Replace the Neutral Safety switch and then repeat Step 3. The Problem still exists, however the neutral switch was part of the problem as the ohm meter now show's that two more of the terminals at the starter relay are now closed. One more of the terminals read open. Unable to locate where this connection leads to. Step 5: Quadruple check that all linkages are correct. Step 6: Close the hood, scratch butt, sit under the shade tree and cuss a blue streak. The four letter lubrication doesn't work. Step 7: Post this.

ah1fdoc · August 2005

Check the load rating of your tires. They should be a E rating or higher. I had my tires replace and they put SUV tires on and I had the same problem. I put 8 ply tires on and the problem is gone.

ah1fdoc · August 2005

Check the ply rating and load rating on your tires. They should be a minium of E rating or and 8 ply tire.

ah1fdoc · August 2005

Did you change the tires since you purchase the vehicle? Check to make sure the load rating is correct for the vehicle. Tire stores will throw SUV tires and they are to low of a ply or load rating and that will cause the problem

jwolfe · August 2005

I am trying to get the screw in the pin in my rear end. Is there an easy way to line up all the holes.

rick757 · August 2005

My truck has just started having the following problem. It starts fine. When I take off and get about 1/2 mile down the road it will not gain speed like it should. It is very slow to build speed up to about 50 mph and then suddenly it just takes off and runs normal. You can push the accelerator to the floor and it will not go any faster during these episodes. So far, this has only occurred when starting up and running. After this happens, the truck runs fine until the next day. Any ideas as to what is up with this? The truck has a 5 speed, Cummins Diesel. :confuse:

KCRam · August 2005

you're not gonna do a whole lot better than 11 with the 360/5.9 - that's one of the reasons it was replaced by the Hemi.

kcram - Pickups Host

loncray · August 2005

Um, maybe it's just me, but that's the single most suggestive post I've ever seen in here. There's so many opportunities for a cheap joke here....

tg2003ram · August 2005

I purchased my 2003 Ram 1500 with a smile, but lately I'm done! :lemon:

PROBLEM #1 At 20,000 miles I experienced an intermitting "Door Ajar" bell that would not stop... When it was hot outside, the bell would ring, the door locks would lock, unlock and everytime I took it to the dealership, it would stop. After 4-differnent trips to the dealer, they finally found the resistance in the pink wire of the wiring harness to be too high. They replaced my wiring harness and it was fixed.

Problem #2 At 56,000 miles, I get in my truck and the following doesn't work! Instrument panel, blinkers, horn, windshield wipers, dome light, turn signals, the truck stalled twice on right hand turns on the way to the dealer, low idle... The dealership tells me that it would cost $750 +Tax to replace the instrument panel for starters, then they can't guarantee that it will solve all of my problems....

With rising gas prices and a list of problems.... I'm DONE!!!! :mad:

indyjag · August 2005

How many other people are finding that on the 2005 Dodge 3500 2/wheel drive trucks have a piece of metal sticking them in the lower back by the consol side.
My truck and several others I checked have a metal piece just below the material that after a short time begins to wear the seat and punch you in the back. I feel that in a accident the metal would hit a person in the hip area, but it is just uncomfortable if you lean over that way also.
Dodge says I am over the 36,000 so they are not interested!
Thanks Don

erickson2000 · August 2005

I was driving down the interstate at approx. 80 miles an hour when a loud noise erupted from my engine compartment as quickly as I could I hit the brakes, but it was too late. My 5.9 magnum had lost oil pressure and I sat on the side of the road with a shot motor. I suspect the I had experienced failure with the oil pump. The motor now has a loud knock and I am awiating a large repair bill. Just wondering if this is a common problem. I was shocked with the pickup only having 70,000 miles on it and the engine going bad. Until this time I had been a chevy guy and switched brands and was completely happy until this happened. Pleas reply if anyone knows of a similar problem, thanks.
-Erickson2000

rrotz · August 2005

I am having a similar problem with the 1999 Dodge. I cannot speed up past 30 right now and no matter how much I push the gas it does not spped up. I had transmission people look at it and they thought it was the fuel pump but we are getting pressure. So far, we've narrowed it down to a clogged converter but no results.

mike05 · August 2005

I have a 05 diesel automatic that has a Buzz or Vibration that seems to come from the rear end or drive shaft. (Similar to a bad rear u-joint) It starts when my speed reaches 70 mph or higher. The Buzz resonates in the cab and vibrates in the steering wheel. My dealer denies any vibration and says there are no bulletins on this. (they just dont want to deal with it!) I have checked, balanced and rotated the tires. Anyone with any knowledge of this or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

KCRam · August 2005

The 70mph vibe is a known issue. I got lucky with my 05 in that I don't have the vibe, but quite a few folks do. One solution I've heard is to have the front wall of the bed braced... on that truck, the vibe was coming from resonating sheet metal. Others have required rear-diff swaps.

kcram - Pickups Host

kilster · August 2005

Your first problem sounds like you have a leaking intake manifold plenum gasket. It is probably sucking air and oil around the bottom of the pan. The second i think you might find a blown fuse for the ac condensor fan. You will have to order a new fan assy. from dodge and should take care of your other problem.

kilster · August 2005

just a guess but i would try and replace the governor pressure sensor and solenoid in the valve body

kilster · August 2005

it sounds like you need a injector pump. I have seen this a few times and replacing the injector pump fixed them. Should be warranty for 5 years, 100k miles

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions