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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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    luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    i have a 3500 with a 5.2 engine in it and it stops runing ;; blows asd/pcm fuse ;; replace it and it runs great for a short time;; blows fuse at least twice a day; please help ;;
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    kilsterkilster Member Posts: 55
    i've seen a couple in the past they have had a bad 02 sensor, the heater circuit on the o2 sensors are powered from the same fuse as the asd. you could unplug one at a time and see if its blows the fuse or just replace them. Most of the ones i've seen has been the dowstream side.
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    jrod4jrod4 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have the same issue with my '95 Ram. After 10 years, all of a sudden 8 major cracks developed on the dash board. How tough was replacing it?
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    dram1500dram1500 Member Posts: 1
    Hi carlsalt or anybody! I can't seem to find where to get the rear speed sensor and was also wondering how difficult it is to replace it? Is there a procedure you can tell me about or point me to?

    Also, I was told by a dealer, after spending $89 to verify this same situation that you found, that the speedometer problem is tied into the rear speed sensor. I guess you did not find that to be true?? They want $230 to change the sensor!

    My check engine light is also on and they said it was a temperature sensor beneath the battery. For another $230 they will replace the battery and cables, not sure about the sensor. My engine is cutting off when I slow down and they told me it was because this sensor is causing the engine to limit power. Seems strange although I do have rust spots on the driveway from the battery area.

    Thanks for any help from anyone!
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    luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    i have a 3500 with a 5.2 engine it blows the asd/pcm fuse;;i install a new fuse and it runs great for a few hours;; blows fuse every day or two;; replace o2 sensors didn't help ;;
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    blackmoreblackmore Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 2500 with the same type of problem. will the 100k warranty cover this pump? I have 97k right now.
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    rambusrambus Member Posts: 4
    Well- it's been a few weeks since I've had this problem where my dashboard turned off. I gave in and took it to a Dodge mechanic. Here's what fixed the problem- he said I had a bad camshaft sensor and a bad crankshaft sensor. He said there was a short in both of them. He replaced both of them and said that the computer was still showing a short. So he had to replace that too. Also, he said the cap and rotor was worn. Well, out of all this being replaced it was fixed. I think it was a combo of the sensors and computer. Maybe one or the other?? Anyway, my truck has since ran better too. It used to chatter like crazy under the slightest of load. Could never figure that out. Now it's just about completely gone. So there you go. It only set me back $1358. Good luck.
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    potatohead01potatohead01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a question of course i was wondering if someone could answer. I have a dodge ram 2500 V10 With a dana 60 front end that came stock, of course. The upper a lower ball joints both sides are bad. to change them you have to take the drive axle out and to do that you have to take the front bearing off. I have taken the four bolts out of the back, and the spindle nut which i bent a 3/4 in drive breaker bar doing, and there in no play in the bearings at all. I have made up a jig so that i could try and press them out by using a harmonic balance puller and i have tried to heat the spindle to get it out. but all of these have gotten me nowhere but beating up the dust cover on the inside of the rotor. Is the some trick to taking these out or is there a special tool that i need and cannot find.
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    jamiedcmjamiedcm Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a Dodge Ram 1500 pick up with 70,000 miles. I have had front end problems & so far have replaced ball joints & tie rod ends. I feel the vibration through the steering wheel. Could this be a problem with the steering shaft slip joint? My check engine lights comes on & it says torque converter sensor. Is this a sensor that needs to be replaced? What does it do? Any suggestions on what to do or look at??
    Thanks for any help.
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    rtimmonsrtimmons Member Posts: 3
    Went to start my truck today (1500 Ram 360 V8) and nothing. Battery checks out fine. Checked the power distribution box next to the battery and the ignition run fuse is blown. Put in another fuse and it blows too when I hit the starter. Also, I'm not getting power to the power windows now. Of couse they're in the down position. Any advice?

    Robert
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    rtimmonsrtimmons Member Posts: 3
    oops, it's a 94. It was late.
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    luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    i have a 3500 with the 5.2 engine it has been blowing the asd/pcm fuse two or three times a month;; replaced o2 sensors but it still blows the fuse;; engine light comes on often ;; it is reading misfire on no.5 sometimes it reads cat def; can anyone help;; please;;
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    kilsterkilster Member Posts: 55
    check your ign. switch in the column, you will probably find you have a burnt wire or two in the connector
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    david31david31 Member Posts: 3
    1983 Dodge Ram 150, after installing a new starter; it wouldn't start. I jumped over the solenoid and it starts. I've come to think its the neutral safety switch. I'm going to replace it and would like advice if possible, thanks David
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    ronman1ronman1 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2000 2500 4x4 about 4 months ago and am in the process of repairing the front disc brakes. I replaced the old rusted calipers and turned the rotors and replaced the old pads. After bleeding the brakes, with engine off, I then started the engine and the brake pedal now goes all the way to the floorboard and the vehicle acts as if the emergency brake is engaged which it is not! I have done brake jobs in the past, but have never encountered this type of a problem. Any suggestions/solutions would be greatly appreciated.
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    rtimmonsrtimmons Member Posts: 3
    That was it. Thanks guys. You saved me a load of money.
    Robert
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    dangodango Member Posts: 5
    Did you receive any responses to your speed sensor problem? I'm experiencing the same problem with my '99 Durango. It was showing code p0720 which indicates a problem with/from the Output Speed Sensor. Supposedly it easy to replace but I do not know exactly which sensor it is and there are a few under there. Let me know if you find anything out and I'll do the same.
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    esterschmitzesterschmitz Member Posts: 1
    i am replacing the rear end in my 1995 dodge 4x4 slt 1500 series. when i bought the truck i was not aware that there was a salvage number on the rear case. needless to say the rear end started to howl,then for some reason the transmision would auto shut down. then i started kicking out the rear drive line like it was a forgine object. any way in the process of pulling the old rear end i found a sensor inside the pumpkin and attached to the spider gear assembly. can someone please tell me exactly what all this sensor involves. and whether or not i can replace the rear end with one which does not come equiped with this sensor
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    david31david31 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem on a 83 Ram 150. I've installed a new starter; but have to jump over the solenoid. i've had some electrical problems recently also. I thought maybe the neutral safety switch was the concern. By luck it's starting again, though. Do I take apart the column to find the ignition switch wires? and what should I look for. Thanks, David the painter.
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    david31david31 Member Posts: 3
    Robert, I have a 83 Ram 150, with the same problem I think. Did You solve it by finding wires that were burnt or could it be the neutral safety switch. I put a new starter in, but still have to jump the solenoid. Any comments what help thanks, David
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    bert79bert79 Member Posts: 4
    My truck engine rpms surges(100 or 200 RPMs) mainly while gradually accelerating up hills. I'm not sure that surges is the best way to describe the problem - it appears to me to be hunting back and forth between 2 gears. This is especially noticeable in the 35 to 45 MPH range. I'm able to lessen the problem by accelerating aggressively. Also, the problem is less noticeable if I take it out of overdrive. The dealer replaced the throttle position sensor - no help, and another shop replaced a power train control module I believe its called. After the power train control module was replaced, the problem seemed cured for a month or two but now the problem is as bad as ever. Any ideas?
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You appear to be describing what Dodge calls the Exciter Ring. This toothed ring provides a input signal for the Wheel Speeed Sensor. The Wheel Speed Sensor is used to provide wheel slip and deacceleration input to the anti-lock brake controller and Power Train Control Module.

    Regards,
    Dusty
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    independentjlgindependentjlg Member Posts: 8
    Check You Oil Pressure Switch or Your Oil Pressure Pump
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    benztechbenztech Member Posts: 1
    Hi Alan,
    I have a 2003 Ram 1500 w/ the 3.7l and tow package with the same exact problem as yours. I have been to the dealer three times for this shutter and have been told the same thing " they all do it". I still don't believe that this is part of the
    design. And even if it is it completely unacceptable. Just wanted you to know your truck is not the only one that shutters at part load. Have you found a fix for yours? I am going to drive another one w/ the 3.7l to verify they all do it. If they do I will
    probably persue the Lemon Law for buy back, because my old truck that I got rid off had over 200k on it w/ a v6 and it pulled my trailer no prob...and no hesitation or shutter at light load. It is sad that a reletively new vehicle acts like this
    Sorry I am not able to help, but you are not alone
    thanks
    Manny
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    dodgeandweavedodgeandweave Member Posts: 5
    The fan/blower that blows heat or AC in my truck is tempermental. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it won't turn on at all. Took it to the dealer and they supposedly checked it out...of course it was working when I brought it in. They tested all the wires etc (so they say) and found nothing wrong. They speculated it might be a dead spot or dirty brushes in the fan motor. I can drive the truck with it not working, turn the ignition off, and then start it back up and it works fine. One other mechanic thought it might be a connection issue with the ignition switch. Anyone have a similar problem or an idea how to remedy? The dealer suggests a new fan which runs about $330 installed.
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    maxellmanmaxellman Member Posts: 43
    Related to the (coming) Dodge 4500 truck. Is it because officially you can't talk about it until it is released?
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    KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    We haven't really had much call for cab/chassis truck information, which is what the 4500 would be. Being that this truck has been on-again/off-again for literally years, I'll hold off on starting a discussion for it. But if Dodge holds true to thir usual schedule, if it indeed will be an 07 release, it would likely be shown at the Chicago Auto Show next February. If it comes out then, I'll start a cab/chassis forum where people can discuss the pros and cons of class 4 and 5 rigs.

    kcram - Pickups Host
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    enojon2enojon2 Member Posts: 6
    THAT IS A PROBLEM DODGE DOES NOT WANT THE PUBLIC TO KNOW ABOUT ON THE EXTENDED CAB 2002 MODELS. ALMOST ALL THE ONES WE HAVE IN MY JOBS FLEET DO IT AND IT REALLY GETS AGGRAVATING. THERE IS A DESIGN FLAW IN THE LINKAGE TO THE TRANSMISSION. THE FIX MAKES IT WORSE. :mad:
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    enojon2enojon2 Member Posts: 6
    I HAVE A 2001 QUAD CAB THAT I JUST TRADED FOR AND IT HAS THE SAME PROBLEM. THE DEALER, AFTER MUCH DELIBERATION ON MY PART, FINALLY LOOKED AT IT AT THEIR COST. THEY SAID IT WAS TOO MUCH RESISTANCE IN THE SPARKPLUG WIRES AND CHANGED OUT THE ROTOR CAP AND WIRES. IT STILL IS NOT RIGHT.
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    enojon2enojon2 Member Posts: 6
    I JUST RECENTLY TRADED FOR A 2001 RAM 4X4 SLT. IT SHIFTS REALLY HARD WHEN YOU ACCELERATE AND REDLINES EVEN AT 80 MPH. IT RUNS AT ABOUT 2500 RPM AT 80 MPH SO I GUESS IT DOES NOT HAVE A 3.7* GEAR RATIO. IT HAS THE 5.9L ENGINE. I PUT AN AIRAID AND POWERAID INTAKE ON TO TRY TO GET BETTER RESPONSE, BUT IT STILL SEEMS TO BE SPINNING IN PLACE AT ALL SPEEDS. THE DEALER SAYS THEY CAN NOT REPLICATE THE PROBLEM YET THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT 34 K MILES. ALSO THE FUEL PUMP SEEMS TO BE OUT OF WHACK AS WELL AS THE GAS GAUGE WHICH A GENTLEMAN TOLD ME WAS A DODGE PROBLEM AS HE HAD TO REPLACE 3 ON HIS TRUCK. WHAT ARE THE NORMAL GEAR RATIOS FOR DODGE? THIS IS MY FIRST ONE. :mad:
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    schmedlyschmedly Member Posts: 44
    Dodge has no inherent fuel pump or fuel gauge problems. There are only a couple fuel pump manufacturers out there. They all buy from the same suppliers. The biggest problem that occurs with the pumps these days is letting your gas tank run low on fuel. The fuel pumps are mounted inside the tank and use the gasoline to keep it cool as its running. Running your tank low will tend to allow the pump to run hot and prematurely wearing out.

    Probably the most common rear end ratio on a Dodge is 3.55 to 1.
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    thestudentthestudent Member Posts: 1
    New to this site , having a hard time finding my way around. Sorry if this question has been asked a million times.

    I need new after market brakes and drums, not happy with the factory brakes. Any web links or advice would be great.I want to stop this truck. I'm in North San Francisco Bay area.Only towing a 6000lb boat, but personally I think truck brakes poorly even without the boat. Someone did mention aluminum brakes if that sounds right??

    Also looking to buy a new front bumper and winch if you can help with that to. I just know I'm going to come around a corner and smack an animal one of these days. Have a price quote of $399 on bumper but think I can do better.

    p.s. may not need bumper if I get good brakes! but I want the winch none less.

    Thank you very much for any help!
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    brasberrybrasberry Member Posts: 2
    98 1500 with 318, engine runs fine, trans. shifts fine. At around 40 to 50 MPH when I accelerate into overdrive/passing gear all i get is high RPM(about 2800) and no acceleration. Engine light flashes several times and stays on and says I have misfire on three cylinders. Need help or advice on what to do. Thanks in advance.
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    redhemiredhemi Member Posts: 1
    My thermostat was shot. I replaced with a new one, but my check engine lights is now on. does anyone know how to reset without taking the cables off the battery.
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    ppez1259ppez1259 Member Posts: 1
    Hi parsonrik, i own a '97 Dodge Ram 1500 that is currently doing the exact same thing as your truck. For the past few months on occasion when i try to start my truck i'll turn the key and nothing, absolutely nothing happens, no clicking, no reving of the engine, no noise whatsoever will happen, really stinks 'cause it's made me late for work before. I have no idea what it could be tho. I keep up basic maintenance and also have bought a new battery, but to no avail for some reason it will start fine most of the time, but every now and then out of the blue. It won't. If you happen to find the problem. PLEASE SHARE THE INFO. I'D BE MOST GRATEFUL. I'll be sure todo the same.
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    dglennondglennon Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Ram 2500 4x4 V10. I have what appears to be the overdrive problem as discussed by dustyk. I replaced the TPS, no success. I hooked up the computer, no trouble codes and the computer is telling the truck to shift into overdrive. when on the highway I hit the O/D lockout and nothing changes. I replaced the overdrive solenoid and changed the fluid.

    I did have dextron in the truck. I replaced it with ATF+3. About 8 quarts, therefore a partial change. After the solenoid change and fluid partial replacement no success.

    It feels like there is shifting into OD, but when I hit the button it doesn't down shift so the converter lockout must be the 4th gear sensation I'm getting?? I'm a top notch back yard mechanic, but a backyard mechanic nonetheless. This is the deepest I've found myself into a transmission, but I'm determined to understand it. I will take the transmission out if I have to. Tourque converter? Back flush next? Hook a meter up to the wire to the solenoid and run it and verify command?

    Help!!!
    David (different than the original post. This is my first time)
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Although Dexron-Mercon is pretty incompatible with Chrysler automatic transmissions and damage can result, it has no bearing on your particular problem.

    The Overdrive Solenoid could be actuating and not deactuating or the Transmission Control Module (TCM) is maintaining an actuating signal when the command to disengage is initiated.

    When you press the Overdrive Switch on the end of the gearshift lever, does the OD Off lamp illuminate?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Is this an automatic or manual transmission?

    Things to check:

    Starter Motor Relay
    Clutch Pedal Position Switch or Park/Neutral Starting Switch
    Starter Solenoid
    starter Motor
    Starter circuit wiring
    Fuses #12 (10 ampere) and 16 (50 ampers)

    Regards,
    Dusty
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    djbindingdjbinding Member Posts: 1
    I'm feeling a vibration through my steering column as well. I just did the front end over soup to nuts. No change. When I turn wheel to left and hit gas something shifts. Vibrations as well when travelling. I'm wondering if it's the steering box as well. Any suggestions?
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    dglennondglennon Member Posts: 3
    The light does illuminate. Is the TCM different than the computer that is under the hood against the firewall on the passenger side? The code check/diagnostic computer I have that I plugged into the truck's main computer did show the overdrive solenoid being told to shift at the appropriate times.

    I have a performance computer for the truck that I thought of switching with the standard one in the truck to test the main computer, but my brother in law / expert mechanic didn't think it was faulty based on the results of the diagnostic computer.

    Thanks for the help.
    David
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The Transmission Control Module (TCM) connects directly to the backside of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and is considered a standalone module.

    Based on the results of the diagnostic tool I think I agree with your brother-in-laws assessment. If that's true, that leaves the O/D switch, the wiring, or the overdrive solenoid itself.

    Regards,
    Dusty
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    fatboy99fatboy99 Member Posts: 1
    Before the winter I'm looking for a HD 4X4, I hope to do a little plowing in the neighborhood. Dodge was my first choice, but I"ve been hearing some grumblings concerning performance, dependability and resale value. Years ago I owned an old Dodge van and you couldn't kill it, always ran.
    Today I drove a 2003 Ram 2500 and it felt great. Price is $17, 999 , with 48000 miles. Any information from owners of a 2500 HD would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.... :confuse:">
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    brasberrybrasberry Member Posts: 2
    Fixed with new cat. converter.
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    dieseldumbdieseldumb Member Posts: 3
    My cummins with 88000 mi. quit on the highway a few days ago. Fuel is getting past filter. Is there an electric solonoid shutoff?, fuse,etc.I checked all the fuses I could find.Is Dodge having trouble with Injector pump? I'm shutdown untill after holidays.Thanks
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    dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You will always here grumblings about Dodge...from Chevy, Ford, and Toyota owners. But in reality the Dodge is just as dependable as most of the competition, save maybe the Tundra. As to resale valve, that's an old myth. Look at Edmunds or Kelly, compute the stated value for equivalent trucks in the same condition and miles, subtract from the MSRP and see for yourself. Dodge value lost is actually better in most localities.

    As to performance, I'm not sure what the issue is. Either the Hemi gas or Cummins Diesel are the max at the truck performance end. The little 4.7 does remarkably well in the RAM, despite being found in 4800 pound trucks.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
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    vvalentinvvalentin Member Posts: 2
    That was it.

    Thanks.

    )))><
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    loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    If your 2500 has a CTD, I'd avoid plowing - the plow puts too much weight on the front suspension which is already near its limits holding up that big Cummins motor. If it's a gasser, you ought to be in fine shape to plow - just keep an eye on suspension parts.
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    gward1955gward1955 Member Posts: 1
    My 95 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel engine does the same. the transmission shop it is backing feeding the TPS from the alternator. They first checked the grounds Did not help They have ordered an box kit that is sukpposed to fix it.
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    hagenhagen Member Posts: 1
    I need the electric fan motor tha is by the radiator and it cools the compressor core--HELP :sick: !!
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    dglennondglennon Member Posts: 3
    I've already replaced the overdrive solenoid in trying to remedy this issue. Where is the TCM located on the truck? The PCM?

    With that I'll ring out the wiring and the switch with my meter and see what that brings me.

    Thanks,
    David
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