Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

eskies · May 2006

I own a 2001 ram 1500 with 5.9. what i found out is by going to amsoil oil, trans fluid, front and rear diff. has helped with gas mileage. used to get 13 city 15 highway. after amsoil installed, 15 city 19 highway. caps work best. easy on the gas pedal as well
hope that helps

ahavens · May 2006

My speedo doesn't work until I hit about 40 MPH. A while back it started waiting until about 25 MPH, and one day it was up to 40. Any help?

jneal · May 2006

Replace the speed sensor on the rear axle.

stablehand · May 2006

I was recently towing a horse trailer with my '98 1500. Everything was fine all day until suddenly while going up a slight grade I noticed I wasn't accelerating. I down shifted but the truck wouldn't go above 2000 RPM. Luckily I was almost home and had to go about 5 MPH the rest of the way.

Has anybody ever experienced this before? Did my head gasket blow? Or is it my transmission? I'd like to have some idea of what's wrong before I take it in.

Thank You

Joe

mac24 · May 2006

Sounds like your truck went into "limp home" mode, which is done for self protection when one of several possible problems arise. You can get an idea of the cause by having the computer read for fault codes. Your dealer can do it, or Autozone will usually do it for free.

hdlowrider8 · May 2006

I have the exact same issue on my 03. Did you find a solution? My warantee expired and the d&*n dealer wants $100 to hook up the computer to see if there are any codes stored. I'd prefer not to buy a new controller for $125 if that's not the problem. I did have the heater flapper replaced under warantee last year. I can flip the control over to defrost and notice that tha AC compressor kicks in which makes me think the switch is ok, but air only comes out of the dash vents. I have a dual control unit.
Thanks for the help.
Steve

roswellsue · May 2006

Hi, I am having the same problem. Has anybody found the secret to fixing this problem? I suspect it is the Front Control Module but don't know for sure.

harcam · May 2006

I'm having the same problem with my 1999 2500. It won't shift from 2nd to 3rd unless I let my foot off the gas. Check engine light is on and the truck idles rough. Did you get your issue resolved? If so, how? Thanks!

harcam · May 2006

I'm having having problems with my 1999 Ram 2500. It won't shift from 2nd to 3rd unless I let my foot off the gas. Check engine light is on and the truck idles rough. Any ideas where to start trouble shooting would be great!

Thanks

donkill · May 2006

I have a 2004 ram 3.7 1500 looking for any advice on power gains i have a k&n cold air intake and magnflow exhaust the engine reponds well to upgrades but cant find anything else for it.Considering a custom turbo but dodge mechs say the engine is a piece of junk and cant handle any power.

xwray · May 2006

the station where I have purchased diesel fuel for my 93 cummins for the last 13 years just converted over to the mandatory ultra low sulpher fuel. Do I now need to do anything different or use any additives to prevent any damage - engine only has 160,000 miles on it.

thanks

tukthis · May 2006

Just bought a used 2002 dodge ram..came with no working cluster..with no working cluster i mean no power running through it at all...but when checked with a volt meter it has power at all 3 spots where its supposed to,which means i have no turn signals,head,lights,etc..the guy i got it from pre warned me of this problem said the cluster is bad and possibly the computer,the owner welded on the frame/body of the truck with the ground of the battery connected.once this happened the problems came up..being very open to the problem and not knowing what it was.so ive routed the problem down to replacing the cluster and FCM..front control module which plugs into the side of the POWER FUSE RELAY CENTER...now if u think other wise please chime in im no dodge expert..i unplug this FCM and the car still runs fine and as expected no cluster..plus it back in and still no cluster.my question is this..i can find these parts on ebay..but can i put them on from any year new body style dodge day 2002-2005?does it take any kind of programming or is this just a universal piece for all those yers that just plugs in and goes.As for the cluster,by talking to ebay sellers they claim i need year specific an 02- or 03 cluster will fit and work in my 02 as long as it has power door locks..does anyone know why this is cuz i know by appearence its the same and im near sure the plug in the back is as well too...so can i run parts from another car with no problems..im not worried about the miles from the other cluster not matching mine..but will i get the wokring lights and signals like i want....ANY HELP is appreciated.Kyle

KCRam · May 2006

You may want to consider a lubricity additive. The process that reduces the sulfur also reduces the lubricity levels in the fuel, and since it's the fuel that lubes the fuel delivery components, that lubricity is important in older diesels.

kcram - Pickups Host

tex10 · May 2006

i have a 05 dodge ram 1500 4 door 2wd truck. i have 4.7 liter magnum V8 in it. is their a way but more power motor. i cant find any thing for this motor. i was thinking about stuffing a 360,383,440. i dont think i could stuff 440 but if can i will. what kind emissions equipment would i need get keep it up to date. i would love keep same motor but theirs not performance I can get out of it. what should i do for a transmission?
i have just a need to do this.

schmedly · May 2006

You would likely be many dollars ahead if you sold the current truck and bought something with an engine that has a lot more power, like the 5.7 liter. An engine transplant is very expensive and other parts like the computer also have to be changed out.

rreckers · May 2006

I have the same problem.. Just turn 185,000 last week. I've done all that you did and even changed the battery. I think my next move will be to change the cat converter. Have you found the solution.

It's been the best truck I've ever had and I not ready to spend 40thou to replace it.

Hope one of use gets this figured out.

tpmakr · May 2006

Gentlemen, ref my original post #2884. :lemon: After further letter writing and phone calls to Chrysler describing the problems with the rear end of my truck howling, vibrating, and whining and the many attempts to fix the problem I finally received a letter from them - "we are sorry to learn of your dissatisfaction, and understand how this might cause you inconvenience or concern. The situation written about is a function of your vehicle's design and is not a defect in materials, workmanship, manufacturing or factory preparation. These are the only types of defects covered under the new-vehicle limited warranties. Unfortunately, there is nothing we can do to fix the situation described." So, to all of you who have the same problems and are waiting for a cure from Chrysler, GOOD LUCK. Warranties, customer service, etc., mean absolutely nothing to this corporation once they get your money. Won't be back to this forum as I am going to try and get rid of this truck somehow. I know I am going take a licking. Lawyers want about $2500.00 to just be put on initial retainer. Great forum and really enjoyed reading posts from the many great contributors trying to help others. "jneal", thanks for your original reply.

donkill · May 2006

There is a supercharger for your 4.7 as well as tuning upgrades you just need to look around and be patient.

bigred11 · May 2006

Yeah I'm at about 187,000 miles. I've had the problem for about a year now. I just replaced the cat and it still did not fix the problem, but it did make it run a lot smoother and more effecient so it wasn't for nothing at least. I don't know what to do next? Maybe bite the bullet and try the dealer.

nscar68 · May 2006

I was changing my thermostat and broke a bolt when trying to put new thermostat in. I went and got a tap and die set and drilled out and put the new bolt in. When I attempted fill the radiator it wouldnt get full. when in a few minutes the motor started to buck and shutter. I checked the oil dip stick and it is covered with a gooy antifreeze from top to bottom. Any ideas on what I did? How screwd am I? Any ideas on the cost to fix it? any info I can get will be helpful. Its a 95 ram 1500 5.9L

kmolteg · May 2006

I have a fully loaded 1998 conversion van and I would like to try to keep "old Betsy". The problem is that it was leaking oil for a while and the connecting rods went. It only has 60,000 miles and is still in pretty good condition. I can't sell it w/o a working engine and I got a quote of $4000 to fix it. I have a friend who a "hobby
mechanic" and knows a lot about engines. The problem is that because it's a van, and the connecting rods are on the bottom, does the whole front end need to come off (bumper, etc) or can the engine be lifted straight out of the van? Can anybody give me some advice on this? We're trying to figure out if it's worth the effort and money to fix, or sell "as is"? My friend says that if he does it, the parts should only be about $2000 or less. I've been searching the internet but can't really find much about how to repair/replace the connecting rods and rebuild the engine and how hard and time consuming it is. Any help, advice, would be a welcome relief!

kilster · May 2006

If memory serves me, i think you take off the whole front, bumper, radiator, condensor, etc. and the you can just raise the motor and slide it right out the front of the van. If it was me, I think I would look at a reman engine or even a jasper engine instead of a rebuild. Either of the remans will come with some warranty. I would leave the engine swap to the hobby mechanic not the rebuild, will he warranty the repairs for you? I know mopar engines have a 3year 36k mile warranty and Jasper I think are 3 year/75k Warranty. even if cost a little more than a rebuild i think you will be father ahead. hope this helps you, good luck

Mr_Shiftright · May 2006

Definitely get a rebuilt engine in a crate or forget it. By the time a really competent machine shop does the new crank, sizes and balances the rods, does the heads, etc., and then you guy buying the engine gasket sets, and then trying to find a REALLY super clean environment for assembly of the engine (presuming you remember where everything goes), and THEN having to reinstall and reconnect everything...you will probably have spent more than just ordering up a reman engine....AND you won't have a warranty if you assemble the engine yourself.

luckyman1 · May 2006

have a 3500 with a 5.2 or a 318 misfireing bad would like to change it to a 5.9 or a 360 is this possible

KCRam · May 2006

The 3500 (1994 and newer) was never offered with a 318... the older D350/W350 hasn't had a 318 since the 80s. If you have a 350 or 3500, the base gas engine from the 90s until 2002 was the 360... in 2003 it became the 5.7 Hemi.

kcram - Pickups Host

shadowparks · May 2006

thanks for the info wfuller. Sorry it's taken so long to reply. I had the fuel pump replaced on it but have not taken it on a long trip yet. There was some recall stuff that had to be done and one of the things was a roll over valve inside of the gas tank, so the dealer couldn't rape me on the labor for installing the fuel pump. How much is the ASD relay? That will be the next thing i replace if it acts up again. The dealer suggested that it could possibly be the distributor cap. They couldn't find anything wrong with it when they looked at it. Again, thanks for the info.

hisbaby · May 2006

My Daddy found this site and suggested I visit, so here I am! And I have questions and am seeking advice!
01 Ram 1500 Quad, 5.9 SMPI V-8, 4 Sp, Auto, 46 RE. My truck has 10353 miles, all logged by me. All service and maintenance has been done as reccomended, correct fluids used.
The problem: When reaching 40-45 mph, when going into 4th gear, makes terrible vibration noise, stops if I let off gas, or push on through to higher speed but oh the noise kills me, knowing it must be "painful" for the truck! If over drive is OFF, no problem, no noise. Turn O/D on at cruising speeds of 60 and up, no problem. EXCEPT gas mileage- ouch!
Engine light came on,"P1740 TCC" code refers to "either the TCC solenoid or overdrive solenoid doesn't seem to be making much sense" (neither that does that explination!). Here is what I have gathered: Could be overlay harness, dealer says "$109. for part alone, may fix, if not, would likely have had to replace harness anyway" True/Not True? Additional thoughts: could be Thrust Bearing, or Overdrive Unit. Or TCC solenoid Power Control or Overdrive solenoid.
I don't really understand these things, but I'm trying. I have been told that it can be a common experience that customers are often told they need a new trans, when they only need parts, which is what they GET, but are CHARGED for more. Does anyone know of this problem, (not the cheating people, the transmission) and if so, how has it been solved? What should I LISTEN for a mechanic to say or NOT say? What could I be looking at cost wise (ballpark) for any one of the five items I mentioned above? How much labor is involved?
I have an appointment to meet with mechanic on Tuesday 5/30, and I'd like to go as well armed/educated and prepared as possible, so Thanx in advance for any advice, suggestions or shared experiences!

schmedly · May 2006

I trust that your mechanic is a non dealership mechanic that specializes in transmissions. If not, That is what you want to do. Transmissions are a specialty item and dealerships generally just replace unless they are certain it is a simple repair. The reputabale independant has no problem with minor parts swap outs. they also need their reputation held. Expensive rebuilds occur when the customer lets it go until it is slipping baddly.

Ask the mechanic what it needs to go X amount of miles. Always asume in your questions that it does not need a rebuild. Offhand, I don't think you do.

marshal23 · May 2006

I have a dodge ram 1500 with the 318 in it. I charged the A/C last year and it worked great for most of the season. This year it is not working but I have cheacked the amount of freon in it and it is at the levels that are ok. Can I still have enough pressure in the system but have no freon in it?? Any advice would greatly help.

Thanks,
Dan

velvetk · May 2006

My truck has it's first tranny rebuild at 100,000km. Now, at 165,000km, the rear bearing failed (not related to overheating I'm told) and the whole tranny needs to be rebuilt again. The first rebuild was under warantee at the dealer. They waranteed the rebuild for 20,000km. I've put 45,000km on since then and they are saying it's my problem. I find this totally unacceptable- a truck with this mileage needs it's 3rd tranny?! I'm getting it done at an independent shop, but am looking for some advise on how to get some reimbursement from the dealer or Chrysler on this. I've read the Lemon-aid guide website- most of the Dodge tranny links aren't working any more. Any suggestions? Thanks.

hisbaby · May 2006

I originally described my problem in message #3063. I spoke w/a mechanic (not a trans. specialist) and his advice was "maybe the torque converter would be a band-aid fix" but I don't get a warm fuzzy feeling about it at all because he seems to be leaning to the side of "replace transmission" - but from all I've read here, and things I've learned taliking to others I am not inclined to accept that as yet.
I was advised to tap the brake while still accelling to see if that would stop the noise/vibration,(this was to determine if it could be the torque converter, I guess) but, wouldn't you know it, I can't get the truck to do it today! It doesn't do it all the time, and only between 40-45(50) mph, and when the O/D is "Off" it doesn't do it at all.
But I REALLY need to get it fixed. What kind of Transmission "credentials" should I look for in a mechanic? What should I "watch-out" for? I really can't afford to spend money in the wrong direction, but I DO want to do the right thing. Any advice is appreciated!Thanx in advance for your insights!

farmboy4 · May 2006

I see it's been a year since this problem was discussed. I'm hoping you or someone else may have come up with the name of the part. I have a problem with my HVAC as well and it sounds similar. I only get heat or air from the defroster, and only sometimes. I can get in and turn the key and sometimes I'll get air flow right away. It's a '98 Ram 2500 diesel so I have to wait for the glow plugs to heat up. Then when I start the truck, sometimes I'll no longer have air flow and sometimes I will. When I don't, sometimes I'll be on the road for a while and never have air flow, and sometimes all of a sudden it will just start up. Yesterday I had air flow from the defroster all day every time I was in the truck. When I got home last night and turned the truck off I still had cool air from the defroster. This morning and every time today I went anywhere there was absolutely nothing. Any suggestions from anyone? Also, does anyone know for sure how to get the dash trim plate off a '98 Ram 2500? Thanks in advance for any help. HP

j33dow · June 2006

Hi, My son has a hole in his condenser. Shop wants $880 to fix it. I can buy a new condenser for $118 on-line. BUT... How hard is it to install? Shop will fill the system with FREON for $200. Any advice??? Thanks

kilster · June 2006

It sounds like you have a problem with the vacuum to you AC Unit. Defrost is always the default when you loss vacuum. Since you have a diesel you have a problem with your vacuum pump or a broken vacuum line. Trace your vacuum line from the firewall back and see if anything if broken and unplug the line at the fire wall and see if you have vacuum there. Make sure the engine is running to check for vacuum. I'm not sure if you have a electric pump or a vacuum pump attached to the power steering pump, I can't remember where they were in 2000 Model Year. Good luck, hope this helps you.

kidstallyn · June 2006

Ok....Driving to work today, nothing out of the norm, no trailer, just cruising down the highway approx 65-70MPH, truck just up and dies.....Everything electical off.....Still rolling, I popped it in N and restarted the engine using the key (had not turned off, still in on position) and all was normal for the rest of the drive to work....The truck is brand new with 1500 miles on it wit no perfomance mods done to it...(yet)

Has anyone else had this happen to them??

toreka · June 2006

Hi.

I have exactly the same problem. It started last year.
I have a -98 4x4 2500 sport, witch is lifted, and has 33 in tires.
I went to my local dealer, and they changed one pressure sensor and a pressure regulator, because the codes indicated that they where the problem. No luck. After hours of searching, they contacted an expert on transmissions, and he told that there is a signal- cable that is between the gearbox "brain" and the engine "brain". This cable runs in a bundle with other cables. It was said that the other cables gave interference to this signal- cable, and needed to be re-routed, away from the bundle. My local dealer did so, and it solved the problem, for a while......

Now the problem is back.... So it looks like it did not solve the problem completely.

Is there any others with the same problem? have you been able to solve it? i would be happy to hear from others, that might have a solution for this, or have any ideas what the problem could be.

PS. I am a Norwegian, so if you find any wrong spelling, i'm sorry for it...

billiard1 · June 2006

I have a 2002 Dodge ram 1500 4.7L. The ac condenser fan motor just quit and I replaced it. Now the ac on the drivers side vents is ice cold and the passenger side is warm. What might be causing this problem and is it easy to fix?

blkhemi · June 2006

I recently purchased an '06 2500 Megacab CTD 4X4 Laramie. I love the space of the truck and the longer wheelbase makes the ride about as smooth as a luxury car,

BUT, I have noticed the fuel numbers. My '05 2500 CTD 4X4 gets very respectable unloaded mileage(about 19 mpg), but I have yet to crack 13 in this truck. Is it because the diesel is still relatively new. Or is the weight of the MegaCab just that much more to make the economy this bad. I know I shouldn't argue about economy in a 7000 pound truck, but I would like to know if there is anything that is different about this model v. others.

BTW: This engine seems to be much smoother than the '05. There is not even a slight hint of vibration in the steering wheel as in the '05 while idling or taking off from a stop.

kilster · June 2006

Check your freon levels, it sounds like you might have a low charge, probably just a 1/2 pound low I would guess.
Good Luck, hope this helps

kilster · June 2006

I've most of the new mega cabs I have seen are in the same mileage range when they are new, after 5k to 10k miles it picked up a little bit. I have a 05 quad and get about 19-21 empty and my buddie's 06 mega, with 60k miles on it now is running about 17-18 empty.

icehawk940 · June 2006

Hi All

I have a 95 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.2 litre. i am trying to replace the front shocks on it and i am stumped. how do you get the shock out? do the coil springs need to come out? i noticed where the top shock bolt is there is 3 bolts and i am not sure if that's the shock tower or the bolts holding the spring in. any help would be appreciated.

blkhemi · June 2006

Did you mean 6k miles. If he has 60k miles on a truck that isn't 1yr old, I'd like to know where he's been driving(lol).

The Cummins is a very tight engine when new, which means the fuel economy will not be best when new, but I've owned 12 CTD's in the past 15 years, and this is the first time I've experienced this. I also thought it could be the new lo-sulfur diesel that's dragging my economy, but who knows.

KCRam · June 2006

Let's bolster the MPG: Dodge Ram Real World Numbers discussion with questions about fuel economy

kcram - Pickups Host

kilster · June 2006

Just for your info, I just serviced his truck today, 62k miles, was bought in December. We haul campers and boats. His an 06 mega 62k, I run part time, I have a 05 quad bought last July and pushing 30k already and 2 other friends one an 03 quad dually with 285k miles and the other 05 quad with 192k miles. Trust me these trucks dont sit still long, and I have to service all of them. We put the truck thru there paces and really no major problems but one. Bad fuel on the 03, killed the injectors and fuel system. Most all of them are getting 12-15 loaded and anywheres from 17-21 unloaded.

mick101883 · June 2006

I am having the same problem with my 2001 1500 4x4 off-road. It has happened twice, the first time i started it up, backed out of my drive way, and it dies. then it wouldn't start. It would turn very strong but not start. The next morning it started right up. It ran perfect for about a month. I went out this morning and it has happened again. I took it to my dodge dealer for service after the first time and they said everything was fine with the fuel pump and everything. Any help?

mick101883 · June 2006

Hey, i am having the same problem with my truck not starting. This is the second time actually. It will turn very strong but just won't start. I had it serviced and they checked the fuel pump and found nothing. They were stumpped because none of my engine lights are on. The first time it happened, it wouldn't turn and then the next morning i went out and it started right up and ran fine till now wich is a month later. Any Help???

dahuber · June 2006

Top three bolts hold the shock retainer. The shock can be changed separate from the spring-the spring will not need to come out. One large bolt on bottom can be REAL difficult to get out.

BTW, I changed from the OEM to Edelbrock IAS last year on my 01 Ram 1500 and have been pleased with the upgrade.

p100 · June 2006

Is this the original transmission? If yes, the truck was probably never used for any serious towing. Otherwise it would be on at least second transmission now. If it is the original, in all probablility it will need an overhaul soon.

joepcar2 · June 2006

try having someone check the crank and camshaft sensors

davelyons · June 2006

Okay this truck has had 3 tranny's crank and cam sensor replaced twice, new main computer, and new upshift solnoid and some other electrical parts inside the tranny.

But the problem is still here.

It is stalling under power in forward gear and it is worst when turning left. This truck could run all day in reverse without any problems. When we replaced the upshift solnoid two weeks ago ran great for a week and now is starting all this stuff all over again.

I am thinking it is electrical problem (Shorting) going to the tranny is there a wiring harness somewhere hidden. This truck has been nothing but problem since it was bought new in 96 only has 145,000 miles

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions