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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dodgefandodgefan Member Posts: 3
    The trouble here is that the ABS and Brake warning lights on our Dodge Ram stays on constantly. The engine dies when we're slowing or about to come to a complete stop. The fuel gauge and speedometer are not functioning properly. Any info on the matter will be appreciated.
  • bigred11bigred11 Member Posts: 3
    So I think I have it figured out. Its all about the wiring of the ignition wires. If they are too close together then they will interfere with one another. here is the article from chrysler and a step by step wiring order of how they should be:
    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl654h.htm

    I tried re-wiring them and it worked for a shortwhile before it started missing again, so I at least touched on the problem, im going to keep trying.
  • trip210trip210 Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad battery of all things. Engine would turn over but not start. It would start occasionally if I gave it gas, but died as soon as I let off. Hope your fix is as simple.
  • ahavensahavens Member Posts: 6
    I had all of the same problems on my 1999 (Except the fuel gauge). The ABS and brake warning lights, as well as the speedometer, were taken care of by replacing the rear wheel speed sensor (Which you can only get from a dealer), and the stalling was fixed by replacing the fuel pump.
  • dimsterdimster Member Posts: 10
    Hello

    I have a 2004 1500/ 4.7 Dodge Ram Quad Cab Truck. I have a 3" body lift and have leveled the front end. I have a 3:90 rear end gear/ 285/70/ 17 tires and have K&N Performance air filter systems installed. My loss of power occurs during hot weather. Just going up the slightest of inclines causes my truck to loose power and shift into high gear. Sometimes on a straight stretch of road with a small head wind my truck will loose power and shift about 15 times during a twenty mile stretch. I have noticed during cool weather and during the evening hours, the truck runs like a champ. What can I do to correct this problem and is all the shifting bad for my automatic trans ? I was considering buying a performance computer to try to remedy the problem. I really love my truck but I have come to the conclusion if nothing can solve my problem then my last measure is just to trade it in...
  • dodgefandodgefan Member Posts: 3
    Hi, thanks for the reply. I read also that the idle speed control could be a factor for the dying of the engine. Do you have any idea how much these parts cost(rear wheel speed sensor and idle speed control? And where can I find information on how to change these parts. Thanks for your time.
  • tommy77_1tommy77_1 Member Posts: 3
    I have an 02 1500 Quad 2WD with 34k miles on it and I am getting a rear brake squeak when I accelerate after stopping. It only happens for a few seconds. I just replaced rotors and pads and noticed that the parking brake pads and hardware were extremely rusty and was wondering if anyone else was having this problem and if they were able to find a fix. I lubricated the #$#$ out of the P brake hardware and it has helped some but still get the problem.
  • billiard1billiard1 Member Posts: 2
    Your relay should be in your fuse box under the hood. Open up the fuse box and on the cover it will label where to find the relay with corresponding numbers. Hope this helps.
  • ahavensahavens Member Posts: 6
    I had the rear wheel speed sensor shipped to me from the dealer, and I think total cost (shipping and all) was under 50 bucks. No idea about the idle speed control. As far as changing the speed sensor, it's easy. It plugs right into the top of your rear differential. All you have to do is disconnect a cable and remove a shield and then yank the old one out and replace with the new one. it's been a while, so I may be leaving a step or two out, but it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes. Hope it helps.
  • dodgefandodgefan Member Posts: 3
    Ok, thanks for the info. It is appreciated.
  • 01dodge01dodge Member Posts: 1
    wondering if you found out your problem. a little more information, high voltage input to tps, runs rough, gas mileage drops to the floor, about 8mpg from 14. need help.
    same here cruise control stopped working.
  • farmboy4farmboy4 Member Posts: 9
    I have pretty much the same problem with my '98 2500 diesel, but all the air comes out the defrost ducts instead of the dash panel. In addition, the fan works sporadically. Sometimes when I turn the key to let the glow plugs warm up the fan comes on, and when I start the truck it doesn't come on. It may go for a couple of miles or a couple of days and then just kick on. Last weekend I spent Sunday trying to figure it out. There's a vacuum hose along the back side of the firewall near the top. It goes from the drivers side to the passenger side. The vacuum pump itself is connected to the power steering pump. There are a couple of tees in the hose and if you disconnect the hose you should be able to hear a slight hiss. If not because of the noise of the diesel, take something small and light weight and hold it over the vacuum hose end. It should suck it towards the hose. Then go on to the next piece. Behind the control, if yours is vacuum controlled and not electronic, there are about 5 little pieces of hollow plastic sticking out and a hose connects to each of them. One of them is the vacuum hose. You can easily find out which one by blowing air from an air compressor through the hose from the fire wall side once you have it disconnected from the control. Someone inside the truck can tell you if air comes through the hose and which one. At least now I know the hose is clear but am not sure if I have ENOUGH vacuum to operate the control. I checked this morning on a new vacuum pump at one of the big national service chains that does brakes, tires, mufflers, etc etc. I explained my problem and he told me it's probably the vacuum pump not supplying enough vacuum. A new (or maybe rebuilt pump) would run around $600.00 installed. I haven't made up my mind to spend that much money on it yet without knowing for sure that it would solve the problem.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    For around $10-$15 you can buy a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum at various points in the system, and of course the pump itself. I don't know the vacuum required on your truck (it will be in the FSM), but I'd guess at around 20".

    For around $30 you can buy a hand operated vacuum pump such as the Mityvac with which you can test the vacuum actuators that operate the various HVAC doors.

    Tools are always good to have, and it's certainly a cheaper alternative to spending $600.
  • farmboy4farmboy4 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for two great ideas. I just put them on my ToDo list for next weekend. Hank
  • rbridgesrbridges Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 1500 QC Ram with 20" wheels and a Hemi. My truck has had a vibration in the seats since I drove it off the lot with only 32 miles on it. It starts at about 65 and stops at about 72...the truck has been in the shop 4 times, they've balanced the tires twice, completely replaced the tires, replaced the drive shaft and still, the vibration continues. Now it has 21,000 miles on it and they are telling me this is a characteristic of the truck. I'm sorry, but if this is a characteristic of the truck, I'm getting rid of it. The vibration at 65mph is annoying and if I'm ever riding in the passenger side, I can't lean my head back and close my eyes because it will rattle my eyeballs. How can that be normal? :mad:
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Vibration like this is not normal. A car or truck manufacturer would simply go out of business in several months if they sold new cars and trucks with serious vibration problems. Your dealer obviously cannot find the problem. There are other sources of vibration besides bad/unbalanced tires and unbalanced/bent drive shaft. For example, sloppy CV joints on a front wheel drive car can cause vibration, sloppy and loose tie rod ends can do that, defective/loose engine/transmission mounts can do it too. Also, damaged shocks and struts can also cause vibration. Badly balanced or unbalanced brake rotors and drums too (balanced during manufacture by machining metal out of rotors or welding a weight on drums).

    You made the mistake of buying a new truck with a vibration problem that showed during the initial test drive. You should have at least insisted that they first eliminate the problem, and if it was minor, such as a badly balanced wheel, then buy the truck if the condition was corrected.
    I made this mistake once and will never make it again. In 1985 I bought a new For Mustang GT that had a vibration problem during the first test drive. I asked them to take care of it, and they rebalanced the wheels and the car did not vibrate during the second test drive (up to 90 MPH). So I bought the car. Around the 600 mile mark the vibration gradually came back with a vengeance - and worse than ever before. Nobody could fix it, the tires were balanced at least six times, front ones replaced, suspension checked, no solution. Finally, they told me the same BS that they told you - that this is normal for this car. I got rid of this vehicle at 10k miles because quite frankly I hated driving it.

    When I test drive any new car or truck and I feel even minor vibration in it, I simply walk away from it. And I strongly advise others to do the same thing. Chances are, that it will develop into a much worse problem, and never be fixed. I learned my lesson and do not want to learn it again. Many dealers simply do not have techs experienced enough to be able to solve some tough vibration issues. After they try a few fixes and they do not work, they will try to get rid of you and disgust you to the point where you simply get rid of the vehicle to retain your sanity. Sad but true. My advice to all: simply go somewhere else or test drive another vehicle and if you do not see anything wrong, buy that one. Persistent and annoying vibration is very unpleasant thing to live with, no matter what the vehicle is.

    In your case i would recommend trying balancing the wheels and brake rotors on the truck as a unit. There are wheel balancers that can do this. Balancing is done with the wheels still mounted on the truck. You may need to find an independent shop to do this. I also recommend ahving the wheels balanced on a Hunter 9700 model road force balancer that can detect defective tires with excessive road force variation. I have seen instances where dealers balanced tires wrong over and over again. And the bigger the tires, the higher the probability of this happening.
  • rbridgesrbridges Member Posts: 3
    Well I didn't actually buy it knowing it had the vibration. I knew I was buying the truck so they let me take it home for the weekend, that's when I noticed a slight vibration. So when I went back in to do my paperwork, I mentioned the vibration to the salesman and he said it was probably just a flat spot on the tire from sitting on the lot and to give it about 5000 miles. So I did, :blush: . But when it didn't go away, the truck has been back in the shop 4 times. Yesterday I went in and they wanted me to drive another truck like mine and see that they all have the same vibration. So I drove the other truck (on a rough highway) and I did feel a slight vibration, but nothing like what mine does on a freshly paved road. I have a feeling I'm going to have to get rid of my Hemi and that sucks! I love the truck, I just can't deal with the vibration! :cry:
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    If tires develop temporary flatspots, such as from the vehicle sitting on the lot for a while without being moved, you usually feel "thumping" as opposed to vibration, and generally this goes away after several miles of driving. 5000 mile period is nonsense.

    Because you like this truck otherwise, I would recommend trying different tires. I have heard complaints about these 20 inch Goodyear tires and even if they replaced them, they may not be much better than the original ones. Michelin LTX M/S is about the best SUV/pickup tire out there. I do not know if they make it in the 20 inch size, but Dodge uses them as standard equipment on many Dodge pickups, including heavy duty trucks.

    Try at least the following the see if you note any improvement in ride: Buy 15 of 40 lb bags of top soil from WalMart (about $1/a piece). Place these bags in you bed, mostly over the rear axle (total 600 lbs). Then drive the truck and see if the ride improves. You can always dump the dirt on your lawn later, and $ 15 is not much to spend.

    I still suspect the tires and the way dealerships balance them. I would take the truck to an independent tire shop that has the Hynter 9700 model balancer and give it a try.

    BTW, when vibration is cuased by front wheels being out of balance, you generally feel it in the steering wheel. Unbalanced rear wheels will cause vibration in the seats and floor of the truck.
  • rbridgesrbridges Member Posts: 3
    Thanks so much for your advice, I'll try the top soil. But what is that going to prove? If the vibration stops with the top soil in it, what does that mean? The dealership actually took my truck to an independent tire shop and they did a high speed balance on the Hunter 9700 model. I'm really at a loss for what it is, but I just can't possibly see how it can be normal. I'm still going to take the truck to a tire shop and see what they come up with. I appreciate your time in answering my questions.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Loading the rear axle may make the vibration less pronounced and the ride more tolerable. Keep in mind that many pickups have a jiggly, jittery ride because of stiff rear springs, even when the tires are perfectly balanced. If you have bad wheel balance on top of this, the ride will be even worse.

    My '06 Silverado rides smoother with about 200-300 lbs of load in the bed. Less bounce. And my truck has no vibration problem.
  • j33dowj33dow Member Posts: 2
    My son has a 1995 RAM 2500 VAN. He has left Boston and is touring the US and the engine is running hot. He has 5 friends with him and a van full of band equipment. Normally, the temp indicator hovers between the 2nd and 3rd bar. Now is goes to the top of the 3rd and into the 4th. They had it checked in Las Vegas yesterday and the thermostat seemed ok. The tech said is was opening and closing properly and didn't overheat in the shop even after sitting with the AC running in the hot sun for 30 minutes. They will be touring for 2 more weeks in the midwest and can't use the AC plus they only drive 50 MPH when the temp gets too high. The fan is working fine. WHAT IS WRONG??? Partially plugged radiator?? Thanks, Concerned Dad
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Does the van have a fan clutch? If so, check the clutch for proper operation. It may never engage when needed.

    Any competent radiator shop can remove the radiator and flow test it, determining whether or no not it needs replacing.

    Is proper 50/50 antifreeze/water mix in the cooling system? Antifreeze has higher boiling point than water.

    Are there any signs of the engine overheating? The temerature gauge sender can be defective too.
  • farmboy4farmboy4 Member Posts: 9
    A few years the same thing happened with a Buick station wagon I had. First I installed a back flush kit which is very inexpensive, probably around $10.00 or so now, and easy to install. Then I put some stuff in the radiator to flush it out. This loosens up any stuff in the radiator and thermostat that may plug it up or cause the thermostat to stick. Make sure you let the engine cool down before you back flush it. After I back flushed it out and the water ran out clear, I put more stuff in to flush it again and then back flushed again, just to be sure it was clean. Depending on the condition of the radiator, you may have a few leaks afterwards you didn't have before, in which case you have to deal with that as well. At any rate, I never had any more problem with the car overheating and I had it for about 3 years after that. Good luck.
  • sandrosandro Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 dodge 3500 4x4 dually auto/cummins. i am having transmission oil leaking from the quick disconnect fittings from the tranny cooler. Is there o-rings that can be re-placed to stop the leaks. Or??

    New e-mail

    ssandrolini@cox.net
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I recently test drove an '06 Dodge Ram 2500 with Cummins engine, auto transmission, and factory tow package. There was no transmission oil temperature gauge (at least I could not find one). Both Chevy and Ford heavy duty pickups have such a gauge on the instrument panel. Heat is the number one killer of auto transmission when towing heavy loads. Why is Dodge not installing these gauges as standard equipment? While other manufacturers do? Nissan even installs these as standard equipment on 1/2 ton rated Titan trucks with the factory tow package.

    I really cannot understand this. Is it that difficult to offer a complete heavy duty towing package, i.e. heavy duty frame hitch, wiring harness with pigtail, heavy duty transmission oil cooler, finned aluminum transmission pan with extra oil capacity, oil temerature gauge in the instrument cluster, and tow mirrors.

    And for Cummins engine trucks, exhaust temperature gauge (pyrometer) should definitely be a part of the heavy duty tow package.

    Can't Daimler Chrysler figure out that providing a transnmission oil temperature gauge and pyrometer as standard equipment would actually save them money on warranty repairs?

    And please do away with the archaic, clunky shifting 4 speed auto and use a 6 speed Allison. Then you will have a truck that is really something.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I couldn't agree with you more........and don't get me started with gauges that are little more than analog idiot lights.

    However, if the manufacturers had their way the only instruments would be a fuel gauge and a speedometer. That would cut way down on warranty work with customers complaining about low oil pressure or overheating. As long as it can struggle through its 36months/36k that's all it needs to do. :sick:
  • boogie1boogie1 Member Posts: 6
    :cry: Does anybody know of a good replacement seat. The metal bars under my thighs are killing me. The standard seat is too painful and I can't take it anymore. Even short rides are a pain in the rear. I wish the seat was made of foam instead of metal bars!!!! Does anybody know of a seat that can easily be installed?
  • hudoghudog Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have a '96 2500,Light Duty, 5.9, Auto
    Not running right. MAP sensor is reading 3 at idle, I feel this is low. What are the proper specs at idle and other rpms

    Thanks,

    Hugh
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Seat made of metal bars? I assume you do not drive a WWII Sherman tank? Did you try one of those seat backrests they sell in just about any auto parts store? Or try a good sheepskin cover.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I have read several complaints about the A/C performance in new '06 Dodge trucks. Are these isolated issues or a widespread problem?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Don't know about the Rams but Dak system works great in 06
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Well, you will get the 6-speed automatic for 07... the new chassis/cab will have an Aisin unit, the pickups will get a Mopar unit.

    As for gauges, Cummins requires numbered gauges on the dash (all other Rams just have the "Low" and "High" markings). I agree that the trans and pyro gauges would be welcome for towers, but there's really no room for them in the cluster. Most aftermarket gauge sets (usually trans temp, boost psi, and pyro) are mounted either on top of the dash, in the cubby under the radio/HVAC, or on the A-pillar. If there are too many gauges, inexperienced drivers can/will become distracted trying to constantly view them, and liability is far more of an issue to a manufacturer than warranty repair.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • napoleonnapoleon Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1995 Dodge Ram Van with a headlight problem. I was driving to Chicago and upon arriving I noticed my headlights were not working. I have checked the maxi fuse under the hood as well as the fuse in the glove box both appear to be fine, and obviously have checked both bulbs. Are there fusible links or relays that are also in the circuit this is driving me crazy trying to figure it out.
    :cry:
  • dodgegirldodgegirl Member Posts: 5
    Hi there, our Check Engine Light has come on and the code is P0138, oxygen sensor voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2. Is there somewhere we can get an exhaust diagram for our truck, 02 Ram 1500 Quad Cab, or does someone know the exact location of the sensors and can explain where they are located. Have contacted several people and now all we are is confused. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • aaronh1aaronh1 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton 4x4. Recently I noticed that the coast switch with my cruise control is not working. If I hit the coast switch briefly, my speed does not drop at all. And if I hold the coast switch down for more than a second or 2, my cruise control shuts off completely (not just disengages but totally shuts off). Does anyone have any idea what the problem maybe or what to look for?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    More than likely you just have a defective cruise control switch.
  • livers77livers77 Member Posts: 1
    In my 1997 2500 Dodge Ram the driver side headlight won't turn off, even when the truck is off and the keys are out!?! Has anyone had this problem before and if so can they help me?
  • smartwomensmartwomen Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1998 Dodge Quadcab 3500 with the 24 valve cummins diesel and found a oil leak.I thought it was something simple to fix...WRONG.It is coming from a crack in the timing gear housing.While I was on my way to the dealer it started smoking (white smoke),it never lost oil pressure and never ran hot.I called a wrecker to pick it up,not wanting anymore problem.Well the dealer calls and says that it needs a complete engine,which will cost $21,391.49 crazy huh? I understand getting the oil leak fixed but someone also said the white smoke could be the turbo??? ANY HELP PLEASE
    Thanks
  • keithnkeithn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 model Ram 1500 Quad pickup.The front drivers tire is rubbing off the outer edge tread! Can anyone offer some sugestions why this is happening.Many Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Try to get a more detailed description from the dealer as to what the actual problem is (and post it here).
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Most likely to be a camber issue, caused either by something bent or very seriously worn. Have the alignment checked by a specialist shop.
  • smartwomensmartwomen Member Posts: 2
    They said it has low fuel pump lift volume.Fuel injector pump out of time and pressure problems.It has an inop turbo(I dont know what that means).It has an internal cylinder problem,clongblock.They said to fix each individual problem would be higher then the complete engine.I just dont understand how just all of a sudden this happened.Thanks for any advice.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I just dont understand how just all of a sudden this happened.

    I rather doubt that it did happen all of a sudden. I'd guess that these various problems have been patched up as they occured, until it became obvious that it was shortly going to collapse into a heap :sick: . That was probably about the time that the previous owner decided to unload it onto an unsuspecting buyer, before he had to pick up the tab.

    I suggest that you return to the seller with the dealer's diagnosis and negotiate a refund. The dealer is saying that the lift pump is working inefficiently, the injector pump is faulty and is installed out of correct adjustment, that for whatever reason one or more cylinders have problems and a replacement long block is required, and that the turbocharger is inoperative. If all of that is correct, then a complete replacment engine would be the way to go. It would probably cost about the same and would come with a warranty.

    Sadly, the only positive thing I can say, is that there isn't any way you could have caused these problems just by driving the vehicle for a short period.

    Good luck!
  • sandrosandro Member Posts: 7
    FIXED !! I changed out the oring inside the quick disconnect fitting. 25cent Oring.

    Sandro
  • dqdudedqdude Member Posts: 1
    My 16 yr old recently bought a 1981 Dodge Ram D50 truck for his first vehicle. It sat up for about 2 yrs when we got it, all we did was tune it up and got it running. Well at the time we got it legal to drive on the road it started messing up. Here's the problem;It starts well and runs fine until the temp. get to operating level it acts as though it runs out of gas, you can then let it idle for a while and it will run fine for about 1/2 mile then it does it again. I have changed the fuel filter, blew out the gas lines, changed the fuel pump, and put a kit in the carburetor and it still does the same. I am at a loss as to what to do next. Help!! I need to get my son out of my car.
  • albealbe Member Posts: 1
    1999 diesel 4 x4 manual transmission w/quad cab. Occasionally the tach will drop to zero, then resume normal working after a short period of time. Sometimes, a miss can be felt in the engine when the tach drops to zero. All other gauges work properly and the truck runs w/ no other problems. Any advise or solutions would be appreciated.
  • dano4dano4 Member Posts: 35
    I have seen multiple towing weights for my truck. It is a 2003 RAM 1500 Quad Cab 4WD with short box, 5.7 HEMI, auto. trans., 3.55 rear end.
    The best info I can get says towing capacity of 7550 lb. and payload of 1420 lb. Can anyone confirm this?
    I also do not know if I have a heavy duty tranny cooler. The truck came with a "trailer tow group", but it does not say anything about a transmission cooler.
    Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
  • daleg2daleg2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC 65 K miles.
    Lately it tends to rumble (in the rear) on take off. It does not do it every time I accelerate, just here and there. Level ground or hills make no difference from what I can tell. When it does rumble, it seems to take a second or two before wanting to accelerate. Other symptoms include when I am stopped with my foot on the brake, it "bumps or lurches" as if someone taps or pushes it from behind. Same thing when I am pulling in at low speed.
    Transmission fluid levels are fine, good color. Oil changes are regular.
    Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
    Dale
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    How's the fluid levels in the rear differential? Have you had the diffs checked out? I'm no mechanic but your symptoms sound like diffs going bad to me.
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Member Posts: 15
    If you have Daytime running lights... I would suspect the relay....
This discussion has been closed.