Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

codered2 · August 2005

Sales guy looked at it and said I could have the tech guys look at it but I asked to see another 3.5 SE 2005 and test it out. He let me sit in another 3.5 SE and I played around with the A/C controls and the same results. So I chalked it up to a design issue. Here is the interesting part. I went to an auction and they had a 3.5SL 2005 and I tried the A/C controls on it. On the 3.5SL you cant have A/C on with out having the recirculate button on. If you trun off the recirculate the A/C light will automatically go off and if you turn on the A/C the recirculate light will automatically go on. This does not happen in the 3.5SE. Thats a bunch of crap. I really think that the 3.5SE has design issues but was just designed for speed and performance and 3.5SL has the good quality/design that the 3.5SE lacks. Reply back on what the dealer says about your A/C

financ · August 2005

Codered2,

Thanks for the response. Mine is a 2005 S and as long as I don't touch the recirculate
button, A/C button works fine. If the recirculate button is turned on for any reason either by me or by pushing the MAX A/C, the A/C compressor comes on as if the A/C button was pushed and it stays on till the engine is shut down. For example, I can start the A/C by only pushing the recirculate button although the A/C button is off. Since you can start A/C by pushing the recirculate button, why do you need to have an A/C button? I hope they don't claim that is a design feature built into the A/C system. I hope to post the response I get from the Nissan Service tomorrow.

Regards,

teresakd3 · August 2005

The car has no oil pressure. We changed the oil filter & still has no oil pressure. What could the problem be? The car runs just has no oil pressure. Help!!

mrach · August 2005

Thanks for the info. This worked! 100% better. Have a 2005 Altima SL and the vibration was so bad above 60 mph I dreaded getting into the thing each day. Like others, I was getting the run-a-round at the dealership; wheel balancings, excuses and Nissan reps. Took me longer to gather the screw driver and pliers to remove the clips than it did to take them out. What is the purpose of the air dam? Can it be left off?

alcan · August 2005

Remove the oil pressure sending unit and install a mechanical pressure guage to verify oil pressure.

wormgambill · August 2005

What are the main differences between the 2005 Altima and the 2005 2.5S Altima. I just need to know in case i go used. thanks

ewe2 · August 2005

I just purchased a new 2005S and also went to the dealer about this. This info is on pages 4-12 thru 4-21 of the owners manual and unfortunately it is a built in feature. I am currently selling my 2005 Altima after only 600 mile because of this feature. And the A/C will turn on if you use the windshield/floor setting and windshield only setting. Once it's activated the only way to turn the A/C off is to restart your car. Very bad design especially with the raising price of gas. Quoted from the pages of the owners manual.

Taken from the owners manual.

Defrosting or defogging.

When the "Windshield Only symbol" is selected. The air conditioning automatically turns on (However the indicator light will not illuminate) if the outside temperature is more than 36 degrees. The air conditioning system will continue to operate until the vehicle is restarted, even if the the air flow control dial is turned to a position other than the "Windshield" position.

Heating and defogging.

When the "Windshield and Floor symbol" is selected. The air conditioning automatically turns on (However the indicator light will not illuminate) if the outside temperature is more than 36 degrees. The air conditioning system will continue to operate until the vehicle is restarted, even if the the air flow control dial is turned to a position other than the "Windshield and Floor" position.

Dehumidified defogging.

When the "Windshield Only symbol or the Windshield and Floor symbol", or positions in between are selected, the air conditioning automatically turns on (However the indicator light will not illuminate) if the outside temperature is more than 36 degrees. The air conditioning system will continue to operate until the vehicle is restarted, even if the the air flow control dial is turned to a position other than the "Windshield" position.

sandman46 · August 2005

You're joking I hope...right? Can't you just live with the a/c system the way it is? Why take a loss on something so...minor? Am I missing something here or what. If the a/c works cold like it should, what's the problem? I can see if you had serious issues like some on the Mazda 3 boards, but sell because of this...?
Someone please help me understand in a simple reply, don't need all the details, just the necessary facts about what's wrong and what y'all think about the way it should work.
Thanks all. On our '01 Alty, the a/c system was so simple and it always worked. Even our new 3 a/c works like it should.

The Sandman

codered2 · August 2005

Are you saying that the A/C NEVER turns off once it is started other than turning off the car? It should turn off when you turn off the fan. It should not run when the fan is off even if the A/C button is pressed or recirculate is pressed. I would deal with having to turn the fan off and on instead of taking a loss of like 2k-3k on a brand new car. I only have 700 miles on my 3.5SE and I would not take the loss. Also the warm months are less then half of the year. You won't need the A/C in the other months.

ewe2 · August 2005

But if you re-read what I copied from the owner's manual it states. If you use the defroster/heater mode or the defroster only mode, the AC turns on if the outside temp is above 36 degree. And the only way to keep it off is to not use the defroster mode at all. I live in the north east where you use these settings most of the fall/winter/spring seasons. So you will end up driving your car with the AC always on. Unless as you say, turn the fan off. But when you turn the fan back on, the AC will come back on.

Unless you go outside in the morning. Start your car and turn the defroster on to de -fog/ice your windshield. And then when your ready to leave. Restart your car with the defroster setting off and drive. But remember. If during that drive you need to use your defroster again. The AC will be on until you shut your car off.

Now I commute on the NYS Thruway 50 miles each way to work. So if I have to use my defroster during that commute. I end up running the AC thus decreasing my gas mileage.

It's a very poor design. And to me. Yes, worth the 2 or 3 grand loss.

ewe2 · August 2005

Yours has a different system. The way it should be. Why they did this is beyond me. Basically my ac will be on year round every time I drive the car with the way it's set up. Unless you just do not use any of the defroster modes or the recycle mode.

If you live near Albany, New York. I have a heck of a deal sitting in my garage for you. $17500. takes it.
;-)
D

themooser · August 2005

My problem is similiar but is confined to the blower selection. 1994 Altima GXE 137K miles (still running strong). One day, I was running the blower on 2 and turned off the car. Restarted the car about 10 minutes later and the blower just died. Turned it to 3 and worked fine for about two minutes, then it died too. Now, the blower only works on 4 - been running like that for over a year now.
Checked the fuses - and they are good. I don't really think it's the motor cause it still run on 4 - but I could be wrong.
Any suggestions?

I plan on replacing it myself but would like to know of other alternatives or solutions before shelling out $80 bucks on the new motor.

Thanks.

ewe2 · August 2005

If I'm not mistaken I had a similar problem with my Stanza. Some resister had to be replaced and I don't remember the dealer charging a lot to fix it.

D

codered2 · August 2005

If you press the A/C button and not press the recirculate button then the A/C can be turned on and off by pressing the A/C button. If you press recirculate at any time the car is on then the A/C will always stay on until you restart the car.

ewe2 · August 2005

I read in the Honda Forum relating to a question an Element owner posted. Seems the AC comes on when she used the windshield defrost option and wondered if it was normal. Of course it is but a reader posted this info. I wonder if Nissan has a procedure to turn change the automatic settings in the 2005. If yes then I would keep the car. Has anyone heard of a Nissan procedure?

To deactivate automatic a/c feature on 2003 Element:

1) Turn vehicle off.
2) Turn fan knob off.
3) Turn temperature knob all the way to the left (blue area).
4) Turn vent knob to panel only setting (next to max a/c).
5) Hold down both air recirculation button and a/c button while turning the key to the "run" position (one short of starting).
6) Continue holding for 7 seconds until air recirculation button stops flashing.
7) Anytime you engage the defrost or defrost/heat positions, the A/C will automatically turn on. Press the A/C button to turn the A/C compressor OFF, the light will go out.

NOTE: If the climate control computer is disconnected from battery power, it will likely revert to factory settings.

To reactivate automatic a/c feature on 2003 Element:

1) Turn vehicle off.
2) Turn fan knob off.
3) Turn temperature knob all the way to the left (blue area).
4) Turn vent knob all the way to the right (defrost position).
5) Hold down both air recirculation button and a/c button while turning the key to the "run" position (one short of starting).
6) Continue holding for 7 seconds until air recirculation button stops flashing.
7) After the 7 seconds described in step 6, the recirculation button will start to flash. Continue to hold the button for another 7 seconds. After this, the a/c light will turn to green and it's finished!

jazzkatts · August 2005

My 2001 Nissan Altima loses power when I stop or slow my car down. It happens when I am at a light, and most recently when I pulled into my driveway, it killed when I was putting it into park. The idle does not change, I just hear some kind of click near the dashboard and I lose power. I had my fuel filter changed and the shop did a diagnostic test and found nothing. It killed 6 times yesterday-and has no problem starting back up! HELP

feemen · August 2005

i have 94 it is not the fuel pump :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

financ · August 2005

I have an 2005 Altima 2.5S. It developed a vibration accompanied by was a hissing/wobbling sound coming from the front. The service told me that the alignment is
very far off and basically all the tires are severely worn so that it is not safe to drive
the car. I was told that the reason for all that was a bent wheel. I independently have it
checked and it was confirmed that the wheel was really bent. Can a single bent wheel
cause such a severe alignment that I loose all my tires in only 13,000 miles or they are
using that as an excuse?

Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.

dakota03 · August 2005

themooser,

ewe2 is correct, your blower motor resistor has blown. It is used to control fan speeds 1, 2, and 3. Speed 4 is the maximum blower motor speed, so no resistors are involved.

Replacing the resistor assembly is a very easy task. I'm not sure where it is located exactly in a 94 Altima, but in my 97 Maxima it was located just above the passengers feet. All I had to do was unplug the wire harness and remove 2 philips screws and swap out the resistor for the new one.

It takes less then 5 minutes and the new resistor is only about 30 dollars, which is much less expensive then replacing the entire blower.

altimagle · September 2005

I am having the same problem with my 2001 altima as well it is the Mass air flow meter. it is making the 4th cylinder misfire. This part is not avl used and if not fixed can make the converter go.. hopefully you will not go through the trouble i have to get this part and it is a good $penny as well

nyc_sud · September 2005

I normally get about 230 miles everytime I fill up with about 12.5-13 gallons. I don't drive hard and get a good mix of city and highway. Any idea on how I can improve my mileage?

New plugs & wires?
New O2 sensor?

BTW, I have almost 60K miles so far.

ecotrklvr · September 2005

Hi, altimagle -

This little MAF does get dirty, but that doesn't mean you have to replace it. Many of them get replaced unnecessarily. When they get dirty, they "fool" themselves, and then the engine's computer, about the amount of air coming into the engine. The wrong amount of fuel is put thru the injectors, so poor performance and bad mileage are the results.

If you do a search on Google, for "Clean MAF" you'll find several sites telling you how to clean it for less than $10, and less than 20 minutes. That's what I did, and my engine runs better, and gets better mileage.

Just my 2 cents.

bytten · September 2005

There is another possible cause for a battery to explode. I witnessed it once years ago and it isn't pretty. If you short out the battery directly the battery may explode. Kind of why I'm searching here now. I have another problem with my 95 altima. Most of the issues have been piddly stuff, however some have been extremely annoying. Bought the car with 45k and it was meticulpusly cared for, supposedly.Now it has approx. 150k. not sure since odometer stopped at 75k. First noticeable problem best fuel mileage was only 28 on the highway. not bad but I expected better since my old 85 Honda got 35.
Front tires wore out quickly and strangely even though they were always balanced properly with pressure monitored all of the time. biggest issue was random stalling, sometimes the car would die at 60 on the hwy. problems was oil in the distributor, which I fixed by spraying carbeurator cleaner into its every nook and cranny, that was six months ago, now the almost new battery just dies from some random electrical problem. what worries me is that when I put the battery charger on the battery the needle pegs, then the charger shuits down and recycles on then shuts down again then comes back on and eventually the battery charges and seems to work fine for days and weeks. Don't know if the battery is failing or if the electrical system is doing something strange. Also had to replace ALL motor mounts at about 75k. hope this helps some.

peterdh2000 · September 2005

I've got a 98 SE also, got 19-20 when i was driving all city, then cross-country got consistently in the low 30's. it seems unusual the difference between city and highway in this car. mine's got a manual trans.

Check tire pressure, air filter first, new plugs and wires might help, dunno about 02 sensor, if it's DIY you can try but don't spend too much $$ on that, I think it'll trigger the check engine light if it's bad. Good luck

altimagle · September 2005

poor gas mileage could come from the mass air flow sensor as well could be dirty or in the process of going bad

ej_rabbit2 · September 2005

Don't know if you know this already...your Altima should have a timing chain...not a timing belt.

alpine1 · September 2005

I've got a 1999 Altima with about 150k miles. The service engine soon light came on unexpectedly (first time the light came on since I bought the car new). The engine runs fine. There doesn't appear to be any problems with the driveability of the car. I checked the vacuum hoses and a short piece of hose that connects to a valve which appears to operate the EGR valve was rotted and crumbled. I replace the section of vacuum hose. If that was the problem, will the Service Engine Soon Light eventually go out?

addie · September 2005

HELP!!
I'm a new owner of a 1994 Nissa Altima GXE, bought it 2 months ago with only 26,500 miles on it. Practically NEW!! It seemed fine, but after running on these rough back roads, I have noticed noisy rattles , actually sounds like something is ready to fall apart in the front end, of my car. It is not audible on very smooth roads, nor can you elicit the sound by pushing on the car. It seems to definitely be getting louder, looser sounding and more "> and I can now also feel it in my gas pedal. My mechanic put it up on a lift too, can find nothing. He suspects that it may be the strut mounts but has not had a lot of experience with Nissans and hates to put me to the expense because he really isn't sure. HELP!! Has anyone had any similar problems? I am starting to be afraid to run the darn thing. Addie<img src="

meca2 · September 2005

I have an 1995 Altima that a front-end alignment shop left the main "saddle" bolts
loose and the front end rattled. Check the front struts for oil leaks on the strut shafts under the boots. I've replaced the struts twice for oil leaks. The original struts were made by Monroe-within 30k all four struts had to be replaced. First I would check the struts for oil leaks. Just lift the boots up and look for oil. Then check the torque on the saddle bolts-three big bolts on both side of the front suspension 110 ft/lbs torque each bolt.

ellis4 · September 2005

I suggest that you and all other owner's of '98 Nissan Altima's either have EVERY square inch of your car looked over. Or, "GET RID OF IT, PLEASE!" My mother's Altima, which she adored, ended up killing one of my sister's. August 27, 2005, my dad,mother and two of my sister's were going on an 8hr road trip, when the strutt snapped and fell out of the car. My dad lost total control of the car going 70 mph. They ended up bouncing off of the guardrail and thrown into the path of a semi-truck that was going about 85-90mph. My sister was killed instantly. All were injured, but will be o.k. eventually. If you have children riding in that car, I would get rid of it. My dad can hardly stand this, he was driving. I will pray for you and any other Nissan Altima owner's. PLEASE!!! BE CAREFUL!!!!!!">

amoree · September 2005

I have a 1995 Altima GXE. I can't get it started. It acts like it will. I changed the fuel pressure regulator but still no start. Its acting like its getting no gas. I check the fuel pump and it is good. Any ideas?

perryjo · September 2005

I had a 2000 Altima and the battery exploded as well. It was an original equipment part, and i believe this should be a manufacturer defect.

perryjo · September 2005

Can you post the number for Nissan to file a complaint?

perryjo · September 2005

Hey y'all,

I just bought a 2002 Altima 3.5 V6 and when I drive over a bumpy or gravel road, I get a slight "popping" sound coming from the front right of the vehicle. Does anybody know what this might be before I take it to Nissan and get ripped off?

Also, THE RADIO STATIC IS UNBEARABLE. I strongly suggest filing compliants to Nissan as others have suggested.

Johnnie

jwin1 · September 2005

Nissan has a distributor remanufacturing program that was rolled out recently ( I wonder why?). The o-ring seal will rupture and allow oil to saturate the distributor. I have a '95 Altima GXE with the same problem. If you remove the distributor cap and the plastic cover under it, AND you see oil splattered all over your optic sensor, you may consider replacing the distributor. I purchased a remanufactured unit three days ago for $138.00 from Autozone. Also, check you fuel pump pressure. It should read about 36 PSI at idle and about the same at 2500 RPM. If all else fails, get a Chiltons or Haynes and a decent volt/ohm meter and check your sensors. Start with the cheapest sensor first and that would be the temperature sensor that tells the computer that the car is out of choke mode. Next would be the throttle position sensor, mass airflow sensor and lastly we are looking at a MAP sensor.

Hope this helps.

edvk · September 2005

Did you ever resolve your problem.

I bought my car July 21, and have been dreading it ever since. Your story reads exactly like mine. Nissan won't acknowledge the problem.

Any insight would be appreciated

maxx4me · September 2005

My friend has a 1998 Altima which has dripping water on the passenger side floor which appears to be coming from the black plastic unit beneth the glove compartment or from near the center console. The black unit beneath the glove compartment felt cold to the touch. The water that drips out is cold, and only happens when the A/C on. I suspect that the drain tube may be clogged. This morning I ran my defroster and water did drip out of the tube (inside the engine) onto the ground per normal operation. Can anyone give me an idea as to why the water would be dripping into my cabin, and what the potential solution is? Thanks.

jackllo · September 2005

When I go over certain bumps with both the left and right rear tire, a metal to metal sound (like a ball hitting an aluminum bat) is heard on my 2005 Altima 2.5S from underneath the car. If the windows are rolled up you cannot hear the sound. The dealership could not find the cause. They replaced both rear shocks with no help. After several hours, they called Nissan Engineering and were told that this noise was normal due to the design of the rear wheel calipers, where a pin slides back and forth causing the noise. It is odd to me that Nissan would design something that would cause such an annoying metallic sound on a new car. Has anyone else experienced this ? Remember have the windows rolled down.

temecula · September 2005

I purchased my Altima new in '02, currently she has 62,000 miles. Over the past 10k miles I've noticed "marble-type" noises coming from the engine. It occurs when I'm at a constant speed; neither accelerating nor decelerating. Also oil tends to burn more than usual, no leakage or abnormalities from the exhaust. Power seems to be normal, and she still runs great. I asked a mechanic and he seemed to think it could be the piston rings. Curious to see if anyone has had these symptoms, and if there is a remedy out there. Other than that...the car is great!
Thanks!

moss2 · September 2005

The nissan altima is the best car in the world. I can tell you that because I build them and I can tell you that if you look at any car with low miles the smoking problem isn't odd. There is nothing wrong with it. don't panic. The reply about the rings setting was probably very acurate. You bought an awesome car. JUST TRUST ME!!!!!!!!! The best of luck with your altima.

msahmed · September 2005

You may want to check the distributor.

I have a 95 Nissan Altima GXE and it had starting problem too, and it turned out that the distributor was bad. You can see the following message (in this board) that I posted some time back:

561 of 1193 95 Nissan Altima GXE/Auto Engine Problem by msahmed United States of America Sep 04, 2003

t53864 · September 2005

Altama 2001
- Blower not working on low settings. Only work on the Highest setting.
- Read from other articles with the same problem suggested that the blower
motor resistor is not working.
- I got the resistor removed and check the connectivity (as suggested by the
Hayne book) between all the leads and seems OK.
My question:
1. How to check if the resistor is broken?
2. What should be the reading from the Ohm meter?

Thanks

jrdcuc · September 2005

I really think Nissan has a very big realiability problem. I like their new designs but it doesn't last long. My mother's 2002 Altima 2.5 S has been at the dealership's service department for over a month now and here's how it all started. We took the car to the service department for it's regular scheduled maintenance. On the way to the dealership, the engine just stalled after stepping on the accelerator from a red light. It started immediately, but it had a wierd sound as if it's was going to stall again. When we arrived at the dealership, I mentioned the stalling to the service department representatives and we were told that the'll look into the problem, along with the scheduled maintenance. Then she also stated a recall for the headlamps, which can also be done on the same day, and that everything should be done within 6 hours. We came back after 6 hours just to find out that we cannot bring the car home because the car is not safe to drive! It turned out that the torque converter was malfunctioning and it requires a new transmission. They told us that the car would be fixed within 4 days. So came Friday, end of the week, and we received a phone call saying that the car isn't fixed yet. What they didn't tell us that their service department went on fire the day before! So my mother's car had been sitting on the parking lot for nothing. They wouldn't want us to take the car to another dealership for repairs since they insisted that they would fix it within a few days. So we waited for another week just to get a phone call from them saying that they would transfer the service to an another dealership in town. Now at the second dealership's service department, they did their own diagnostic test on my mom's Altima and told us that everything's fine and that they couldn't duplicate the problem! The same old line service department people are known to say. So we took the car home, hoping that there isn't any problem at all. But, big mistake. The car stalled again while my mom was pulling the car out of the driveway. This time, the car was completely undriveable. We then called a tow truck and brought the car back to the dealership that misdiagnosed the problem. They ended up ordering a new transmission, just what the first dealership did.

A 3 year old car with 29K miles should not have this kind of mechanical problem. Like I said, Nissan has a huge realiability problem, along with service department people avoiding huge repairs on vehicles that actually do need repairs. We are worried that the problem could go back so we're trading it in for a 2005 Honda Accord once the car has been fixed. I have a 1997 Honda Civic with 156K+ miles on it and it still runs fine, no mechanical problems whatsoever--that's realiability. Our huge lesson here, never ever buy a Nissan. And since Infiniti is Nissan's luxury line, you have to think twice about getting an Infiniti as well. :lemon:

sghandch · September 2005

Thanks in advance that you posted this problem. I was in the dealership and almost tried to buy 2005 Ultima 2.5 S. I should think twice to buy this car and I will bring the issue to the attention of their management.
Sam

mrk94 · September 2005

My '94 Altima has 110K miles on it and runs great. Never had more than minor problems with it, and very few of those. Lately, I've been replacing tail light lamps and scratching my head. First noticed my in-dash clock display sometimes dims or totally goes out when I apply the brakes. This is in the day when I don't have my headlamps turned on; when my headlights are on, braking doesn't seem to affect the clock display. When I go to replace tail lamps, they will often be hot to the touch, even though they had appeared burned-out. With new bulbs in place, they don't glow with a uniform brightness. I've been told from time to time from people behind me that when I brake the tail light on one side or the other goes out altogether. I've never messed with any of the wiring, nor had any mishaps. . . Any ideas?

swanny2 · September 2005

I purchased a 2005 Altima 3.5 three weeks ago with 11 miles on it. Within two days there was billowing clouds of blue-white smoke pouring out the back when I stepped on the gas. Took it back to dealer, they were great, gave me a free rental and called Nissan to get OK on what to do. Nissan said replace the entire engine. That work will be finished today and I hope the problem is solved, but after reading these forums on similar problems with the 3.5 engine, I hope they aren't all lemons. It has shaken my confidence in Nissan. We owned a 1997 altima and never had any problem, which is why we bought another one.

normand76 · September 2005

There is a little knob to the left of the steering wheel, very close to the door. This knob is the dimmer for the dashboard light when the exterior lights are on. Yours are probably turned all the way off, and that's why when you turn on the exterior lights, the dashboard lights go dark. Turn the knob in the opposite direction when the exterior lights are on, and you should now see them come on.

mfeach · October 2005

Anyone have any experience with the VSS, such as its location. I know its on the transmission but not sure where. Keep getting VSS error code in ECM. comes and goes, thinking a bad/loose connection etc. thanks in advance.

bgpabs · October 2005

i have a 98 altima and i have the same problem, i tried playing with the dimmer and the lights still not working, i also tried checking the fuses but they all seem ok, any ideas?

altimagrrl · October 2005

Haven't received any responses to my previous posting and I'm still hoping someone may have some sort of idea as to what's going on. When the weather is cold and I start my '95 altima in the mornings, it will die unless you hold your foot down on the gas pedal for about 15-30 seconds. During this period, well, the only way I can think of to describe it is a "surge" although I'm not sure this is the correct term, the engine surges and revs and the whole car shakes. It then smooths out and I don't have any other problems with it. The colder the weather, the more pronounced the issue. Sometimes it feels like the whole car is going to shake to pieces. Other than that, it's treated me great for the last two years (aside from the notorious blower resistor issue.) Thanks.

Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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