Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

lsneth · April 2006

As I've driven a little more, I think that the engine is just a little louder at high speeds than I was expecting. I paid close attention as I drove yesterday, and it does shift into 4th gear right around 45 or 50 mph. From what I've read, this is normal (?). I think I was just surprised by the noise and paranoid that something was wrong. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to listen to the radio a little louder on the highway!

grumpfish · April 2006

chalk it up to higher (louder) horsepower revs or they got cheap and didnt insulate the front well enough to allow for engine noise.

thetabe · April 2006

I have an '03 Altima 2.5 and recently got a transmission flush, new spark plugs and an oil change. A few days after I got this service, my "Service Engine Soon" light came on (it stays on constantly). This is the first time the light has come on for me ever since I got the car in '04... I took it back to the mechanic that performed the service and they told me that the code my computer produced says there is a problem with the Crankshaft Position sensor (didn't tell me the actual code). They said they will have to charge me to dig a little deeper to see if my sensor does indeed need replaced...
From what I have heard, it is very rare for one of these sensors to go bad and most of the time it is just the connection to the circuit board... Does anyone have any insight on this? Should I get a second reading from another mechanic? Also, could it have been something they did while doing my transmission flush and other services that has caused my light to come on?
My car seems to be running fine and has been no noticable changes since the light came on...
Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated!!

grumpfish · April 2006

if its the SES only theres a way to turn it off. also, some of the parts places like autozone will loan you the device to check the code yourself or do it for you if they aren't too busy. I think something the mechanic did triggered the sensor to go off and he should just reset it. Then wait to see if the sensor comes on again then think of putting more money into it to dig into the matter. get a 2nd opinion either way

good luck

thetabe · April 2006

Thanks for the advice grumpfish!! I'll definitely do that...
Btw... mines the 2.5 S... Which one is the SES? Is there a way to turn it off in the 2.5S?

tdoubloeu · April 2006

I haven't went through the entire forum, but I had to comment on this issue. I to have a 2002 Altima SE. Early on, I encountered this problem and was told that I had no leak, but this problem has continued to occur. I now have 98000 miles on the car and believe me, this problem didn't just start. I can get my oil changed today and in about two weeks, I have to put oil in the engine. As the previous person asked, does anyone have any suggestions?

brozinek · April 2006

We have a 2006 Altima with 2622 miles on it, have had it for 1 month. Saturday my husband went to move it into the garage, but it in D and it rolled backwards down the driveway. The only gears he could get to work successfully were R and 1st. This happened twice. When the dealer got it to their service department yesterday it worked fine. When they went to move it after driving it they were finally able to mimic the issue. They have no idea what the problem is. BE CAREFUL.

ipaq101 · April 2006

Hey guys, I have my 2003 Altima for three years, and I can't get more than 22-23 mpg. Am I measuring the mileage correctly (can anyone describe what the best way to measure mpg)I just divide the miles driven on the last tank by amount of gallons I fill up.

Also, the car makes a sqeaky noise when I start the car in the morning and then goes away later in the day as the car heats up, could it be the drive belt? I have 35k on it right now.

Any help would be sincerly appreciated!

alan_s · April 2006

I don't have an Altima (just a problematic new Avalon :lemon: that I want to get rid of and get something else, which is why I'm beginning to prowl other forums) but I had a Maxima and a Quest about 10 years ago and they all had a common starting problem.
The problem surfaced when the engine was started and turned off after running for only a few minutes. The next start attempt would be a problem. For example, backing out of a garage, turning off and then restarting a while later. At the time a Nissan dealer told me that it was a known problem - the engines tended to flood if turned off only after having run for a short time. They told me to run the engine for 4 or 5 minutes minimum before turning off, and while sometimes inconvenient, this did solve the starting problem.
One would think that after 10 years this problem would have been resolved, but who knows. It may be worth a try.

99altima · April 2006

I have a 99 altima and recently i've noticed that the engine shakes quite a bit whether it is in park or in gear. It has gotten worse - i can feel the whole car shake now. The best way i can describe it is that it is similar to a car that is about to stall out but it never stalls. I also notice that there's alot of sputtering coming out of the muffler. Could it be an exhaust issue? I don't think its the spark plugs - i had those replaced a year ago. Distributor cap maybe?

hogrider7007 · April 2006

HELP! My daughter has a '94 Altima that has been a great car. Recently the tranny started acting up. Most of the time, but not all the time 2nd gear does not act right when it is in drive. Now it acts like there is no 2nd gear while in drive. While accelerating slowly it will slip for a second in 2nd and then go right to 3rd gear. If you stomp on the gas, it downshifts into 2nd, but acts like it is in neutral. But if you put it in 2nd at very slow speed 2nd gear works fine. I checked the codes by counting the flashes on the computer and it read 32 and 34 which is the antiknock sensor and the EGR valve - which should have nothing to do with the tranny or speed sensor. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

badnissan · April 2006

I also have the same water rushing noise on the passenger side of my Altima. It started after Nissan replaced the engine do to a faulty engine knock sensor at 57000 miles approximately. A week after the new engine it started making the noise. We were told it was due to air trapped in the cooling system because the system had been exposed when the motor was replaced. The system has been flushed 15 times or so, they have had my car for over a month for three separate visits and after I complained to their Consumer Affairs they called back and decided to replace the heater core. That didnt work. It still does it. This past Saturday night 4-15-06, at 10 pm, the engine light came back on like it did originally and the temp. gauge was pegged past the hot mark. I am now seeking replacement of the vehicle through their Consumer Affairs and plan to file complaints with the BBB, general attorneys office, and seek lemon law protection. They told us theyve done everything they know to do and are trained to do, that I would have to wait for them to figure out a fix. How long I asked? What customer service. Nissan is a joke.

ncaltima06 · April 2006

I have only had my car for 4 months. Over the past 2 months, I have noticed my breaks squeeking. The dealership states this is normal b/c of the semi-metallic brakes. I hate the fact that I have a new car, but I am driving around with a car that sounds like it is 10 years old. I am seriously considering trading it in.

brandy06 · April 2006

I have the Special Edition Altima and it does not do it at all. Have you considered to take it to someone else or a different dealership to see what they say?

grumpfish · April 2006

I have a new Altima and the brakes have squeeked maybe once.
its a normal occurence though nothing you'd expect from a new car. sometimes its the pads sometimes its just built up brake dust, cracked or misaligned pads. it happens. so long as it doesnt start eating the rotars.

4thnissan · April 2006

I have a 95 Altima since 96. I had the same problem a few years back. Back then it was a seal in the distributor. Oil got inside the cap and a camshaft sensor could not read. If you open the distributor cap you should see some oil. I replaced the distributor and everything was fine... until now. The darn this is doing it again and the distributor is clean inside... I did get a Auto Zone distributor though...

akashmer · April 2006

Hey there ladies and gentlemen.... have any of you checked out nissanclub.com. if not please check out "common problems with the nissan altima. here in is your salvation most of these repairs can be done by yourself.

stalling with the 02+ altima 2.5 in generaly comes from 2 things; Bad Cam and crank position sensors or the fuel delivery settings "Learning" are incorrect.

Bad Cam and Crank sensors work together to replace the EGR system and to reduce emissions as well as reporting to the computer the phase of the intake timing and the position of the cranks and cam at all times. they are "identical" sensors "twins".

altimas made in 2002 are under recall for these sensors. however IT ONLY COVERS 2002 MODEL YEAR!!!!! My car was made in 02' but called an 03' guess what mine went bad!
But mine are not covered by this recall. if these are going bad your engine may stall, run poorly and get horrible gas mileage, the failure usually occurs when starting the car or if the motor is hot.
You can take it to a service ctr. to have them switched out, I suggest not going to a dealer they will charge you a lot of money to do this, or lie to you and tell your your MAF sesnsor is bad (New "mass air flow" sens.=$800). keep your receipts for this repair and hope that the recall is extended for a refund of service.

MAKE SURE YOU COMPLAIN!!!!!! to NISSAN USA. and the government.

I did it myself. for $42! car quest or autozone have the part for $21 ea. they are Identical, eventhough they have seperate part #'s
the cam sensor is a small black sensor on the drivers side of the motor it has a grey plug and is next to one of the coolent hoses. you will have to take off the plastic motor cover and the air intake. to get at it, 1 - 10mm bolt holds it in take it out, put the new one it and done. for now.
If you replace the cam sensor YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE CRANK SENSOR TOO!!!!!!
this one is much harder. lay on top of the motor and look down through the air intake plenum. look for a green plug sandwitched inbetween the tranny case and the motor mount. use the thinest wall 10mm socket you have to get this one out. the one designed for a power drill will work. the plug will be the hardest thing to get off. its a push lock system, push to unlock and then gently pry it off, this will piss you off to the highest level and you will then swear never to buy nissan again :mad: after that, if you manage to get it off without scaring your right bicepts. put the new one on. and your done for now.

then you have to teach the car to breath and for that I will have to em you the instructions. but it to is relitivly easy and will explain it next.

If you have a new car and it floods on starting or won't start, try pushing the gas padal down and then try starting, it should start right up with a big puff of black smoke comming out of the exhaust.

they call it "Idel air Learning", yes your car has to learn.
you can teach it using the ignition "on or off" the gas pedal and a stop watch. your car is fly by wire the gas pedal is all electronic, not cable like they used to be. got to the nissanclub web sight and look it up. 15 min will solve all your issues. you must also do this if the battery is bad or disconnected for longer than 5hrs.

this will help your gas milage to, it will adjust fuel delivery to air ratio and set the car to its end running setting.

not so hard hmmmmm ya right.

aaron K
please post for further info

cranky1 · April 2006

My father in law has a 2004 Altima 2.5sl with 16,000 miles on it. In the last 3 months this problem described below has occurred about in the few months 6 times.

In apparent random occurrences, the car is unlocked by remote, the key is placed in the ignition, the key is turned, All dashboard lights intilally go on, but when key reaches the start position eveverythingoes off. The Car will not start, no sound no nothing. After walking around opening and closing doors. And trying to start the car sometimes approaching hours eventually the car starts. After many visits to the dealer and complying with their recommendation to change the battery, the problem continued.
After more visits to the dealership the other recommendations to shut off the alarm system. Since that time and after shutting off the alarm system. The problem has not occurred.
He seems to have a conflict with his alarm, auto locking of doors and starting system.
help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

johnstonm · April 2006

I feel your pain,I had the same problem. I also have a 2002 Nissan Altima with the same amount of miles. And, in February I had to replace the Engine. I purchased a used Engine and when all was said and done it ended up costing around $3,500!! I owed to much on the car to trade it in, but if I could of traded it in, I definitely would of. I'm a single mother so this has been devestating for me, I will never buy a Nissan again.

lilb · April 2006

Update: the problem was an improper seal near the firewall. Problem has been resolved....although now my car smells very musty when turning on the cool air vent (not a/c). YUCK!

howarduk · May 2006

Hi: owner of '93 Altima

Two things, my rear windows are not working correctly. Have replaced the relay switch in both still have the same freezing problem on the passenger rearside where it goes up and down whenever I key the ignition.

Also, whenever I hit the brakes I lose my clock lamp display and sometimes the horn does not work. When i step on my brake pedal I hear a clicking sound. Fuses seem to be fine.

Any ideas?

mmms · May 2006

I'm not sure if I titled it right, but I am looking for help why my remote garage door opener on the visor quit working also the remote on the key fob for the trunk release. This is for a 2000 Altima GLE. I do believe that these are some type of a "RF" device.

lmcummin · May 2006

I have a 2002 Nissan Altima, bought it brand new. Had the 1st catalytic converter replaced at 40,000 miles! Months later, I noticed the "service engine soon" illuminate. I brought it in for service and they said that I needed a new engine! Corporate asked the service dept. to run some more test, they did, then they changed their tune and said I don't need a new engine. Instead, they replaced the catalytic conveter again. My heater issues started around 40,000 miles - NO HEAT AT IDLE. I've been suffering with this issue for the past few years now. Currently, 83,000 miles on car. I had the heating system flushed 5 times and I had the thermostats replaced 2 times (most recently this past February). I called the service dept. again about the heater not functioning and they replied, "that's strange." I think that they realize that the problems started while under warranty. (I believe that my heater isn't working b/c of engine damage that happened a long time ago secondary to the catalytic conv. issues. ) I will either fight this battle with corporate and most likely won't get anywhere or I'll trade it in for a non-Nissan. Oh, I didn't mention the several recalls and transmission slipping issues b/c I could go on for hours. SPREAD THE WORD...NEVER BUY NISSAN. FYI: Nissanhelp.com lists similar complaints.

fourputt · May 2006

If you park your car, or any car, with the steering wheel turned slightly it will cause the key to be very hard to turn. The pressure of the wheel trying to recenter puts pressure on the key locking mechanism and keeps the key from turning. If this happens again then GENTLY put pressure on the key in the on direction (like trying to start the car) and wiggle the steering wheel at the same time. The key will turn and unlock the steering wheel. This is not a Nissan problem but one with every car that has a steering wheel/key interlock problem. Good luck.

seanibeans · May 2006

With 68K miles on my ride, my dealer has just indicated to me that a problem with my catalytic converter has caused damage to the engine, and will require the complete replacement of both. One of the guys at the dealership suggested I might inquire online to see if any other Altima owners have had similar problems. At Nissanclub.com I discovered that, not only is the problem not uncommon, it often results in engine replacement.

The lowdown: My car had been problem free for most of it's 68K miles, and generally a joy to own, however, starting at about 45K miles I noticed that it was beginning to drink oil. With no noticeable hiccups or other symptoms, the dip stick began to show a significant drop in oil level between changes (done about every 4-5K miles). Repeated queries at the local dealer, and tests by them, would turn up nothing, so I just kept my eye on it, and added oil between changes. When it was getting low, I might hear a growl during acceleration, so I'd know to check the dip stick again.

By 55K I'd be close to dry by 3000 miles. Dealers turned up nothing.

This week the "Check engine" light came on - albeit, while I was on my way to the dealer to have the breaks replaced, (only 2400K from my last oil change, and with 2 added quarts from the weekend before). This is when dealer claims to have finally figured it out. While I'm glad my extended warrantee covers all of it, I am quite uncomfortable discovering my situation is not an aberration.

jmcgriffin · May 2006

I am about to replace the radio in our 2002 Altima for the second time in two years. The radio just stops working - like no power is going to it. The first time was covered by the warranty, but now it has 80K miles and no warranty. I am going to have to pay $250 to replace it. I contacted Nissan and they won't cover it. I am very disappointed I have had numerous problems and recalls and Nissan isn't standing behind their product. My last Nissan lasted almost 200,00 miles without a fraction of the problems.

Has anyone else had this problem?

ray_h1 · May 2006

Since the next audio head-unit will be on your nickel, have you thought about contacting a few junkyards to inquire whether they have one on hand for your model year car? (Just because a car is wrecked doesn't mean everything on the car is wrecked.) Providing you locate a replacement, you could have it installed by an auto-stereo shop if you don't care to tackle installation yourself. (Since it would be the factory unit, installation would be straightforward, merely entailing removal of the old one and using existing wiring and connectors to plug into the replacement - shouldn't be more than a twenty minute job.)

mattc3 · May 2006

We backed out fine this morning, stopped, put the garage door down, backed out into the road, ans when we started to pull forward, the car required extra gas to get moving. We soon noticed that the spedometer, was not working and neither were any other of the dials, fan, lights, brakes!!, turn signal, wipers, defroster, BUT the radio was. We pulled off the road. When we did we turned the car off and it had a tough time getting started until I pumped the gas pedal. So, in conclusion:

Most all of the electrical is not working. I tried changing the fuse for the wiper and blinker without any positive results. But the car does run, Power steering works, brakes work, but I question if the brake lights work.

My thinking is that after trying to install the altenator last night with the battery already hooked up, the big spark blew some major fuses. My thinking is to take it to the shop, but is there an easier fix? What do you think?

sarang · May 2006

I have Nissan Altima GLE 1996 (108K driven). I recently took it to dealer in order to get this air-bag flashing thing checked. He told me that he couldn't figure out the problem and told that computer controller needs to be replaced which will cost $900. I decided to delay this expensive repair. While driving back from dealership I observed there was no flashing any more! the light went off after few seconds of switching the engine. I called back to dealer and he told me that in order to check airbag controller it was reset and the airbag light will for sure start blinking again. But after driving 100 miles afterwards I don't see the light flashing. I am kind of confused whether to trust the what mechanic tole me at dealership or not. Any comment as how I can get it checked somewhere else about if air-bags will function properly if needed in future ?..... Thank you very much for your time.

[Deleted User] · May 2006

Use search. There is a post with a process to reset the light if it stays on. Used it several times on mine. The post is back a ways.

ray_h1 · May 2006

"...My thinking is that after trying to install the altenator last night with the battery already hooked up, the big spark blew some major fuses..."

ALWAYS disconnect the battery's negative terminal (presuming a negative ground system) before undertaking ANY electrical system service. I suspect "the big spark" took the matter way beyond "major fuses". Dig out your owner's manual and search for the location of resettable circuit breakers. (These would be in addition to fuses*) It's also possible "the big spark" blew one or more fusable links** that'll have to be replaced.

*Off topic, but I recently saw an announcement for a new type of replaceable fuse - it has a built-in LED that glows red in the event the fuse blows. Determining whether a fuse's link has melted can be tricky in cramped quarters and poor light, but an LED glowing merrily would be an instant tipoff. They're available in the common current ratings and are a direct replacement for the transparent color-coded, two-prong press-in fuses.

**A portion of high current cabling that's intentionally designed to quietly die in the event of excess current. By the way, your new alternator may be toast, too.

2003altimasuck · May 2006

We bought Our "2003 Nissan Altima" brand new in Nov. 2002. Currently we are about to hit the 60,000 mark.
Thank Heavens we purchased the extened warranty.(Must pay $50.00 deductible per item covered & repaired). Received postcards regarding recall campaign issues took car to Dealership to fix problems.

Twice the car has "died" while driving.
First trip Diagnosis:
Fuel Pump
Three Way Catalytic Convertor & Exhaust Manifold
(Silent Recall)
Also notified Service Dept. issue of noise coming from front right side of car, this car rides like a bucket...

After complaining & taking Altima back to the Dealership AGAIN.. finally they fixed the Front Inner Tie Rod. Hence noise coming from front right, after we got "two" written confirmation from two reputable tire businesses.

The Struts were replaced after "2" trips to Nissan Service Dept. complaining....Hey! they also found an oil leak & repaired.

Last but not least we went less than TWO weeks ago for Our "Free 100 Point Inspection" from the Nissan Dealership
this week we had Our 2003 Nissan Altima towed to the Dealership...... car would not start.

Diagnosis:
Alternator & Cracked Motor Mount.
Wow, What Quality Trained Nissan Mechanics & Wonderful Customer Service Nissan Offers!!! Please....

We would love to get advice on whether to "dump" this nightmare car or go for "Lemon Law". Yes, I have all my paperwork!

What will break next on Our 2003 Nissan Altima.....

donnaneal · May 2006

I am having the same problem with my 2003 altima. It is driving TERRIBLY (stalling, when driving, the motor feels like it has a constant hesitation, doens't shift properly, etc.), and we have taken it to several different mechanics. We have had several things done to it (flushed injectors, new battery, new sensors (put in at different times, new plugs, etc.), but none have solved the problems. I read a message from "this" website #1526. He was having the same problems and found out that the Cam Sensor and the Crank Sensor need to be replaced at the same time!!! I believe that the 2001, 2002 and 2004 years had all had recalls for the same thing, but they have not recalled 2003 (GO FIGURE!!). Anyway, we are going to have this done, and hopefully, this will solve the problem!! Read his comments on #1526. Good Luck!!

shade3 · May 2006

I had to remove the engine from my 96 altima to replace the timing chain. This may be true also for a water pump replacement

carbuzz · May 2006

I have exactly same problem. I have a 2003 Nissan Altima with 64 K miles. I am also observing the same pulsating noise which is very irritating.

Any solutions anyone?

gino45 · May 2006

I had another dealer mention that changing the water pump was a 4hr job. It turned out irrelevant since the coolant leak that I was experiencing was due to the outflow pipe from the engine being pitted. A common problem according to the Nissan mechanic. I sanded the pipe and re fitted the hose and used aftermarket clamps. That worked for a while, but I noticed that it was leaking again this weekend. I'll buy Nissan OEM clamps and try that next.

rose_r · May 2006

Hi, the past couple days my 95 GXE refused to roll over, the first day I waited 10 mins. before it finally started, today I had to wait 45 mins. Unfortunately today the ignition also locked, so once I got it to unlock, the car wouldn't crank, there was no clicking and it isn't the battery that much I can tell you. Later today as I was taking a turn the car stalled and I couldn't get it to start up again and after trying to get it to start for 10 mins. it drained my battery. After it sat at the mechanics lot for 2 hrs. it started up again. They're having trouble figuring out whats wrong with it. Id appreciate any insight to my delima.

debj · May 2006

My 2000 Nissan Altima (GXE I think) is making a chirping noise that seems to be coming from the left side of the car. The noise seems to happen once per tire rotation if I had to guess. It goes slowly when I am moving slowly.. and fast when I am moving fast so I think that I pretty much have it narrowed down to once per tire rotation. It doesn't sound like a "brake tab" noise.. but really like a chirping (almost like a bird). I guess it could be called a squeak too but I think chirp describes it better. Any ideas as to what would be causing this noise? Anyone had a similar experience?

nissantech8yr · May 2006

there is a recall on the crank pos sensor take it to the dealer it should be replaced for free

2003altimasuck · May 2006

Hello,

We are recently new to this forum and have been reading through all the messages. We have a 2003 Altima 2.5 S we bought brand new in 11/2002. Our problems started about a year ago. The Altima started driving/riding really rough along w/numerous issues to follow. See our posting #1541. The irony is we have most of the same "issues" w/our 2003 Altima we have been reading about here.

COME ON NISSAN your CARS fall apart after 2,3,or 4 YEARS of driving - w/under 60K miles???????????????

What is wrong with this picture? We are extremely concerned with the Quality and Service we have received from Nissan.

We also took our Altima to a very reputable Tire Company in our Valley re: rides rough, noises, driving wheel shakes at various speeds. They told us the wheel is bent. The Dealership says NO. We could on and on for hours.

Not to mention the fact we got are Nissan Altima back 10 days ago from the Service Dept. - yesterday we took it back to the Dealership AGAIN for SERVICE!
WE are sooooooooo frustrated.

altim8 · May 2006

I own a 03 Altima 2.5s with 78k on engine. About 2 weeks ago the car started stalling while it was at an Idle, but would crank back over with no problems. About a week ago I was on the Highway doing about 65mph and it felt like it downshifted 2 times in less than 2 seconds. It was a real hard jolt. Almost like a misfire. Than last Friday the car started fine drove normal for about 10 mins, than getting onto the Highway it would only let me accelerate to 25MPH @ 2000 RPM's. Having car brought to Dealership today, however it is past warranty and I'm sure they will want to stick it to me price wise. Anyone else ever have these kind of problems? Is this consistant with a bad O2 sensor or Fuel pump/filter situation? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

donnaneal · May 2006

Have you had the Cam AND Crank sensors changed?? They both need to be changed at the same time.

jmcrouch · May 2006

I have a 97 altima and it intermittenly stalls out on the hwy. I have had work on the timing chain, new wires and plug, new egr valve, had the egr ports cleaned and other things done but yet it will also stall out while sitting idling. it passed the emissions test and yet black smoke will come out of the pipes while driving. can someone offer some suggestions on what I should do next.

jmcrouch · May 2006

I have a 97 altima and it intermittenly stalls out on the hwy. I have had work on the timing chain, new wires and plug, new egr valve, had the egr ports cleaned and other things done but yet it will also stall out while sitting idling. it passed the emissions test and yet black smoke will come out of the pipes while driving. can someone offer some suggestions on what I should do next.

nhcarguy · May 2006

rotate your tires and see if the noise is coming from another spot in the car. if so then you have a bad tire and or wheel. have you hit any real bad bumps, potholes, etc?

if this doesn't help, go to another dealer and test drive a new car yourself. put it through all the motions that generates noise in your car. if you can hear it in the new car then the dealer is right. if not, then bring your car to another nissan dealer and see if they know what your problem is.

another problem maybe your discription of the noise. Is it a hollow noise or more of a roar. Roaring noises are almost always bearing problems.

nhcarguy · May 2006

Hi;

Depending on where you live ( hot or very hot climate ) your problem maybe the crank angle sensor. It is an electronic and maybe getting too hot. It can be expensive, so you need to make sure. If the car stalls can you restart it right away or do you need it to cool first? A quick and less expensive potential fix is to just replace the fuel pump relay. You should be able to get one at a local parts store.

Other potential problems are: ignition control or PCM, fuel pump or relay, as far as black smoke... I would ask if 1 is your mixture too rich ( bad injectors or faulty fuel pressure regulator ), or 2 are you burning oil ( have a compression check done ).

nhcarguy · May 2006

YOU SHOULD HAvE THIS CHECKED IMMEDIATELY!!! The problem I don't like is the shaking in the steering wheel. This maybe be nothing much OR This maybe a loose or broken suspension component problem. This can be fatal if it decides to completely fail at highway speeds. Not only will you be hurt or killed but others driving near you maybe hurt or killed as well.

nhcarguy · May 2006

I would try the lemon law first or call Nissan directly and talk to them. I would also try another dealer. Also, unless it is a warranty requirement, never take the car in for service unless something is wrong. I can't tell you how many times cars breakdown after the multi point checkup. Replace the timing belt (if you have one ) and oil (with filter) at the recommended intervals and the trans fluid if towing boats, trailers, etc. Otherwise leave the car alone. A few things that should be checked once a year ( which most dealers never do ) are: Brakes AND THE BRAKE lines ( especially if you live up north where they use salt on the roads ), your exhaust system, and your steering components ( front end ).

Unless you can do this yourself find a reputable mechanic to perform these inspections so you don't get ripped off.

nhcarguy · May 2006

This does not sound like an O2 or a fuel problem. This sounds like a PCM ( power train control ) problem. First check your sensors as outlined in previous reply. Have the car checked for computer codes ( some are stored even though the "Check Engine" light doesn't come on).

The dealer can drive the car with a scanner plugged in. This should find the fault.

mtkether · May 2006

Hi,

Been there as you with the Camshaft Position Sensor.
As long as I know the camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor. On some distributors, the camshaft position sensor is not serviceable (replacement parts may not be available separately) so you have to buy a new or refurbished distributor.
Check this web sites to get the best information about it. In advance I'll tell you that this problem can be fix it for less than 200 bucks!

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- b/62/5e/0900823d801b625e.jsp

http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl378a-lib.htm

Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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