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From what I have heard, it is very rare for one of these sensors to go bad and most of the time it is just the connection to the circuit board... Does anyone have any insight on this? Should I get a second reading from another mechanic? Also, could it have been something they did while doing my transmission flush and other services that has caused my light to come on?
My car seems to be running fine and has been no noticable changes since the light came on...
Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated!!
good luck
Btw... mines the 2.5 S... Which one is the SES? Is there a way to turn it off in the 2.5S?
Also, the car makes a sqeaky noise when I start the car in the morning and then goes away later in the day as the car heats up, could it be the drive belt? I have 35k on it right now.
Any help would be sincerly appreciated!
The problem surfaced when the engine was started and turned off after running for only a few minutes. The next start attempt would be a problem. For example, backing out of a garage, turning off and then restarting a while later. At the time a Nissan dealer told me that it was a known problem - the engines tended to flood if turned off only after having run for a short time. They told me to run the engine for 4 or 5 minutes minimum before turning off, and while sometimes inconvenient, this did solve the starting problem.
One would think that after 10 years this problem would have been resolved, but who knows. It may be worth a try.
its a normal occurence though nothing you'd expect from a new car. sometimes its the pads sometimes its just built up brake dust, cracked or misaligned pads. it happens. so long as it doesnt start eating the rotars.
stalling with the 02+ altima 2.5 in generaly comes from 2 things; Bad Cam and crank position sensors or the fuel delivery settings "Learning" are incorrect.
Bad Cam and Crank sensors work together to replace the EGR system and to reduce emissions as well as reporting to the computer the phase of the intake timing and the position of the cranks and cam at all times. they are "identical" sensors "twins".
altimas made in 2002 are under recall for these sensors. however IT ONLY COVERS 2002 MODEL YEAR!!!!! My car was made in 02' but called an 03' guess what mine went bad!
But mine are not covered by this recall. if these are going bad your engine may stall, run poorly and get horrible gas mileage, the failure usually occurs when starting the car or if the motor is hot.
You can take it to a service ctr. to have them switched out, I suggest not going to a dealer they will charge you a lot of money to do this, or lie to you and tell your your MAF sesnsor is bad (New "mass air flow" sens.=$800). keep your receipts for this repair and hope that the recall is extended for a refund of service.
MAKE SURE YOU COMPLAIN!!!!!! to NISSAN USA. and the government.
I did it myself. for $42! car quest or autozone have the part for $21 ea. they are Identical, eventhough they have seperate part #'s
the cam sensor is a small black sensor on the drivers side of the motor it has a grey plug and is next to one of the coolent hoses. you will have to take off the plastic motor cover and the air intake. to get at it, 1 - 10mm bolt holds it in take it out, put the new one it and done. for now.
If you replace the cam sensor YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE CRANK SENSOR TOO!!!!!!
this one is much harder. lay on top of the motor and look down through the air intake plenum. look for a green plug sandwitched inbetween the tranny case and the motor mount. use the thinest wall 10mm socket you have to get this one out. the one designed for a power drill will work. the plug will be the hardest thing to get off. its a push lock system, push to unlock and then gently pry it off, this will piss you off to the highest level and you will then swear never to buy nissan again :mad: after that, if you manage to get it off without scaring your right bicepts. put the new one on. and your done for now.
then you have to teach the car to breath and for that I will have to em you the instructions. but it to is relitivly easy and will explain it next.
If you have a new car and it floods on starting or won't start, try pushing the gas padal down and then try starting, it should start right up with a big puff of black smoke comming out of the exhaust.
they call it "Idel air Learning", yes your car has to learn.
you can teach it using the ignition "on or off" the gas pedal and a stop watch. your car is fly by wire the gas pedal is all electronic, not cable like they used to be. got to the nissanclub web sight and look it up. 15 min will solve all your issues. you must also do this if the battery is bad or disconnected for longer than 5hrs.
this will help your gas milage to, it will adjust fuel delivery to air ratio and set the car to its end running setting.
not so hard hmmmmm ya right.
aaron K
please post for further info
In apparent random occurrences, the car is unlocked by remote, the key is placed in the ignition, the key is turned, All dashboard lights intilally go on, but when key reaches the start position eveverythingoes off. The Car will not start, no sound no nothing. After walking around opening and closing doors. And trying to start the car sometimes approaching hours eventually the car starts. After many visits to the dealer and complying with their recommendation to change the battery, the problem continued.
After more visits to the dealership the other recommendations to shut off the alarm system. Since that time and after shutting off the alarm system. The problem has not occurred.
He seems to have a conflict with his alarm, auto locking of doors and starting system.
help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Two things, my rear windows are not working correctly. Have replaced the relay switch in both still have the same freezing problem on the passenger rearside where it goes up and down whenever I key the ignition.
Also, whenever I hit the brakes I lose my clock lamp display and sometimes the horn does not work. When i step on my brake pedal I hear a clicking sound. Fuses seem to be fine.
Any ideas?
The lowdown: My car had been problem free for most of it's 68K miles, and generally a joy to own, however, starting at about 45K miles I noticed that it was beginning to drink oil. With no noticeable hiccups or other symptoms, the dip stick began to show a significant drop in oil level between changes (done about every 4-5K miles). Repeated queries at the local dealer, and tests by them, would turn up nothing, so I just kept my eye on it, and added oil between changes. When it was getting low, I might hear a growl during acceleration, so I'd know to check the dip stick again.
By 55K I'd be close to dry by 3000 miles. Dealers turned up nothing.
This week the "Check engine" light came on - albeit, while I was on my way to the dealer to have the breaks replaced, (only 2400K from my last oil change, and with 2 added quarts from the weekend before). This is when dealer claims to have finally figured it out. While I'm glad my extended warrantee covers all of it, I am quite uncomfortable discovering my situation is not an aberration.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Most all of the electrical is not working. I tried changing the fuse for the wiper and blinker without any positive results. But the car does run, Power steering works, brakes work, but I question if the brake lights work.
My thinking is that after trying to install the altenator last night with the battery already hooked up, the big spark blew some major fuses. My thinking is to take it to the shop, but is there an easier fix? What do you think?
ALWAYS disconnect the battery's negative terminal (presuming a negative ground system) before undertaking ANY electrical system service. I suspect "the big spark" took the matter way beyond "major fuses". Dig out your owner's manual and search for the location of resettable circuit breakers. (These would be in addition to fuses*) It's also possible "the big spark" blew one or more fusable links** that'll have to be replaced.
*Off topic, but I recently saw an announcement for a new type of replaceable fuse - it has a built-in LED that glows red in the event the fuse blows. Determining whether a fuse's link has melted can be tricky in cramped quarters and poor light, but an LED glowing merrily would be an instant tipoff. They're available in the common current ratings and are a direct replacement for the transparent color-coded, two-prong press-in fuses.
**A portion of high current cabling that's intentionally designed to quietly die in the event of excess current. By the way, your new alternator may be toast, too.
Thank Heavens we purchased the extened warranty.(Must pay $50.00 deductible per item covered & repaired). Received postcards regarding recall campaign issues took car to Dealership to fix problems.
Twice the car has "died" while driving.
First trip Diagnosis:
Fuel Pump
Three Way Catalytic Convertor & Exhaust Manifold
(Silent Recall)
Also notified Service Dept. issue of noise coming from front right side of car, this car rides like a bucket...
After complaining & taking Altima back to the Dealership AGAIN.. finally they fixed the Front Inner Tie Rod. Hence noise coming from front right, after we got "two" written confirmation from two reputable tire businesses.
The Struts were replaced after "2" trips to Nissan Service Dept. complaining....Hey! they also found an oil leak & repaired.
Last but not least we went less than TWO weeks ago for Our "Free 100 Point Inspection" from the Nissan Dealership
this week we had Our 2003 Nissan Altima towed to the Dealership...... car would not start.
Diagnosis:
Alternator & Cracked Motor Mount.
Wow, What Quality Trained Nissan Mechanics & Wonderful Customer Service Nissan Offers!!! Please....
We would love to get advice on whether to "dump" this nightmare car or go for "Lemon Law". Yes, I have all my paperwork!
What will break next on Our 2003 Nissan Altima.....
Any solutions anyone?
We are recently new to this forum and have been reading through all the messages. We have a 2003 Altima 2.5 S we bought brand new in 11/2002. Our problems started about a year ago. The Altima started driving/riding really rough along w/numerous issues to follow. See our posting #1541. The irony is we have most of the same "issues" w/our 2003 Altima we have been reading about here.
COME ON NISSAN your CARS fall apart after 2,3,or 4 YEARS of driving - w/under 60K miles???????????????
What is wrong with this picture? We are extremely concerned with the Quality and Service we have received from Nissan.
We also took our Altima to a very reputable Tire Company in our Valley re: rides rough, noises, driving wheel shakes at various speeds. They told us the wheel is bent. The Dealership says NO. We could on and on for hours.
Not to mention the fact we got are Nissan Altima back 10 days ago from the Service Dept. - yesterday we took it back to the Dealership AGAIN for SERVICE!
WE are sooooooooo frustrated.
if this doesn't help, go to another dealer and test drive a new car yourself. put it through all the motions that generates noise in your car. if you can hear it in the new car then the dealer is right. if not, then bring your car to another nissan dealer and see if they know what your problem is.
another problem maybe your discription of the noise. Is it a hollow noise or more of a roar. Roaring noises are almost always bearing problems.
Depending on where you live ( hot or very hot climate ) your problem maybe the crank angle sensor. It is an electronic and maybe getting too hot. It can be expensive, so you need to make sure. If the car stalls can you restart it right away or do you need it to cool first? A quick and less expensive potential fix is to just replace the fuel pump relay. You should be able to get one at a local parts store.
Other potential problems are: ignition control or PCM, fuel pump or relay, as far as black smoke... I would ask if 1 is your mixture too rich ( bad injectors or faulty fuel pressure regulator ), or 2 are you burning oil ( have a compression check done ).
Unless you can do this yourself find a reputable mechanic to perform these inspections so you don't get ripped off.
The dealer can drive the car with a scanner plugged in. This should find the fault.
Been there as you with the Camshaft Position Sensor.
As long as I know the camshaft position sensor is located inside the distributor. On some distributors, the camshaft position sensor is not serviceable (replacement parts may not be available separately) so you have to buy a new or refurbished distributor.
Check this web sites to get the best information about it. In advance I'll tell you that this problem can be fix it for less than 200 bucks!
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- b/62/5e/0900823d801b625e.jsp
http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl378a-lib.htm