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But it does not work.
The problem is there is too much each.
Sounds likes is is not connected right.
I'm planning to take my car to the dealer next week.
ANy comment??
Well I've just found this website as well and I'm amazed that I'm not the only one out there having these problems. I have an 02' Altima w/114k and my warranty just ran out. My altima started last year with some of the same problems. My heater also doesn't run on idle but that wasn't a big deal for me at the time since I live in Houston, so I thought! My Transmission was replaced about roughly 10 months ago. Lucky for me my warranty was still good at the time. But when I turned it in, I also told them that the check engine light was on. Supposly they fixed every thing. About a month later my transmission was having problems again. So I took it back and again they fixed it(this was around 98k). then a month or so my check engine light came on again, but of course this time my warranty was finished. I had a mechanic check it and it read o2 sensor and reading high rpm. They cleared it stating it was good to go. Then an other month or two went by the check engine came on again. but this time the car would all of a sudden shut off on me while i was on idle! Again I took it in and they stated that my o2 sensor was out,but they couldn't figure why it was shutting off. Again they fixed it but today it shut off on me again and it takes off really slow. Of course the check engine light came back on! Tomorrow I'm going to the dealership to ask for some help. love my car but every thing is going down hill in the last year. Also Do any of yall have a sound of water gurgling when yall accelerate? It sounds as it is coming from behind the dash board. Well I need help! :confuse: I just want my car back to normal!
Does anyone else have a similar noise or is my car special?
Thanks in Advance
My car's battery could be completely drained overnight and mechanic could not find anything wrong. So I bought a portable powerstation and jumpstart the car every time I needed to drive it. Since the battery is so drained, the car alarm would sound whenever I connected the powerstation to the car because it wasn't "aware" of the door was opened with a key. One day as usual, I popped up the hood and connected the external battery. There was no alarm sound. The panel lights were normal but when I turned the key, the engine clicked but could not crank up. Since then, I changed the spark plugs but that did not help. Sometimes the engine would start at the very first try but it would immediately shut down again.
Anybody can pls tell me what is wrong?
Also, my car started fine with the portable battery for 3 or 4 months before it failed. And actually after each drive, if I did not let my car sit for more than 1 hour, I could start the engine with the previous "drained" "on board" battery. This tells the alternator did charge the battery.
Once, after a long drive, I disconnected the "on board" battery when it was supposed to be fully recharged and let the car sit for 3 days. The engine started fine with the "on board" battery when it was connected back. This tells the battery did get recharged from the alternator and it held the power.
One thing I can't understand is why the alarm did not sound any more when I connected the external battery to the car. I think this tells sth. but I don't know what it is. Any extra thoughts?
It sounds like something in the car is draining the battery overnight after you park your car. This is called a "parasitic current draw". Since you have made NO mention of checking the battery volts or altenator volts with a voltmeter (which it the FIRST thing you should have done) I would assume you are basicly a non-technical person, so I won't delve into the specifics here. I recommend you take the car to a reputable auto shop and have them check the electrical system, and do a Parasitic current draw test on the electrical system. The "parasite" that is drawing the current out of your battery could be a small light bulb that stays on, or a bad electronic module, or a bad alternator, or a number of other things.
If you want to know more about checking for parasitic current draw, I can post it later.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
1. Are you certain that your lights are going off automatically?
2. Is there a component that does not turn of? Years ago, csr radios stayed on even if the ignition was turned off.
3. How are your belts?
4. You are starting to get a good example of why all the electronics may not be true advancements.And,
5. Was your car ever exposed to water damage? Tracking where it came from in its life might tell you, since flooding information is widely known. I do not think I would believe in a carfax report re flooding.
If I were you I'd have a complete meltdown with the manager! Car dealers are like insurance companies, they never like to live up to promises. Last thing they want to do is give you a new car or your money back. I'd tell them to give you a car to use until it is fixed and they have 3 days to do it, or they'll be hearing from your attorney! Also tell them it won't look very good for everybody in the next 3 counties to know how you were treated, especially with your hubby serving his country (sincerely thank you by the way) and you guys being on the move. Tell them the car gets fixed once and for all, they take it back and give you a new one, or they can give you your money back. Those are the only options. Good luck, it really is an awesome car, but things like this certainly take away from enjoying it! All the best.
Here were my assumptions: I assumed it must be combustion gas. She had also complained that the car would be hard to start on cold starts and the engine would run very rough for about 45 seconds, then smooth out and drive fine, until the next COLD start. So I also assumed that a small amount of coolant would drain from the cooling system into the cylinder through a small leak between the cooling system and the combustion chamber/cylinder when the engine was shut off, and pressure was high in the cooling system until it cooled down. Then when started cold, the small puddle of coolant in the cylinder would splash and foul the spark plug for a short time until the gases being pumped through the cylinder cleared the spark plug and it started firing normally.
What I did was get a bottle of Bars Leak Pelletized cooling system sealer and pour it in the top of the radiator, filled it up, put the cap back on, and run the engine for a while and then drove the car for a short trip. All the problems immediatley went away, and have stayed away so far, so my assumptions must have been correct. I just hope that the problem stays fixed. I would not look forward to having to pull the Cylinder Head to have to replace the head gasket and maybe the head itself. It could add up to a lot of money. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on this one. I told my daughter it's time to look for another car.
They often send factory folks out to the dealer to review the case, talk to the owner, etc. This does not sound normal to have this many problems.
It is worth a shot. The car is really a nice car and from other owners I have spoken with, issues have been minimal.
that is, if your talking about a power sunroof. but first, check and make sure its not just a blown fuse.
Don't open the sunroof, ever. Get up on the roof with a chaulking gun and a tube of silicon seal and run a heavy bead of silcon seal all around the edge of the sunroof. Carefully smooth it out all the way around, and let it dry.
Wha La! No more leak!
I have a working sun roof and rarely use it. However, unlike many people, I do use my A/C, despite the impact on mileage.