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It can kill the battery overnight. Its a simple check, you can hop in the trunk and have the lid closed or you can use a test light (looks like a small screwdriver with a light bulb inside the handle and a electrical wire coming out the end of the handle), now when everything has turn off on the car ,disconnect the neg. battery cable, put the test light between the battery terminal an the neg. cable. If the light comes on, something is on. You can then disconnect wires/ take out light bulbs to see if the test light goes out.
dkich
That's my experince with the car....
You probably just got a defective belt or one that wasn't installed properly. It won't be a chronic issue.
I'm pretty sure its a 36 month "bumper to bumper", normal maintenance excluded.
Many factors could have caused your problem, from a flawed belt to a piece of foreign matter getting caught up inside the engine compartment. With your miles, I would have been astonished if the dealer had done anything else than what you described. It is a most unusual occurance, but it can happen, as you well know.
As far as the CVT, you are fine...there is no connection between the two. Since you never stated that the car was running hot or over-temperature, you should be just fine.
And remember, the reason that the dealer pushes the extended warranty is because it is a high-profit item, not because he is trying to do you a favor. I certainly wouldn't consider one unless it was a really long-term lease.
Good Luck!
What should the labor charge for this be?
Has anyone used aftermarket parts? The dealer wants $237 for 1 control arm just for the part but on the Internet aftermarket control arms w/ ball joints are about $129-$139.
I think the plugs might be the cultprit on mileage. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Thanks, Erica :confuse:
1994 Altima Firing Order
Thanks
Ken
Any thoughts and anyone with these wheels?
Ken
Since this is a new car, why don't you have the dealer do this repair? Its under warranty, you know...
In any case, good luck!
HEADLAMP
CAUTION:
• Do not touch the glass of bulb directly by hand. Keep grease and other oily substances away from
bulb. Do not touch bulb by hand while it is lit or right after being turned off, burning may result.
• Do not leave bulb out of fog lamp reflector for a long time, dust, moisture, and smoke may affect performance
of fog lamp.
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Position the fender protector aside. Refer to EXT-19, "Removal and Installation"
3. Turn the headlamp bulb sockets counterclockwise to unlock and remove them (halogen).
4. Remove the plastic cover, disconnect the ignitor, unlock the retaining spring to unlock and remove the
bulb (xenon only).
5. Turn the high beam lamp bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock and remove it.
Installation
CAUTION:
After installing the bulb, be sure to install the plastic cap securely to ensure watertightness.
EXT-19
REMOVAL
1. Remove the engine under cover. Refer to EXT-13, "Removal and Installation - Coupe".
2. Remove the screw from center mudguard.
3. Remove the fender protector screws and clips.
4. Remove the fender protector.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
EXT-13
REMOVAL
1. Remove the front fender protectors RH and LH. Refer to EXT-19, "Removal and Installation".
2. Remove the engine under cover.
3. Remove the RH and LH side under covers.
4. Remove the fog lamp if equipped. Refer to EXL-240, "Removal and Installation".
5. Remove the front bumper fascia clips and screws, then remove the front bumper fascia.
EXT-14
[COUPE]
FRONT BUMPER
6. Remove the front grille. Refer to EXT-17, "Removal and Installation".
7. Remove the front energy absorbing foam.
8. Remove the front bumper reinforcement and reinforcement bracket.
9. Remove the front bumper supports.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.
EXL-240
REMOVAL
The fog lamp is a semi-sealed beam type which uses a replaceable halogen bulb.
CAUTION:
• Do not leave fog lamp assembly without bulb for a long period of time. Dust, moisture, smoke, etc.
entering the fog lamp body may affect the performance. Remove the bulb from the headlamp assembly
just before replacement bulb is installed.
• Grasp only the plastic base when handling the bulb. Never touch the glass envelope. Touching the
glass could significantly affect the bulb life and/or fog lamp performance.
1. Remove inner splash shield.
2. Position the fender protector aside. Refer to EXT-19, "Removal and Installation".
3. Disconnect the fog lamp electrical connector.
4. Remove bolt from top of fog lamp.
5. Remove fog lamp.
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/latest-uploads/4029-2008-nissan-altima-service-ma- nual.html
Alt08sl, let us know how it works out for you.
You have got to be kidding us! Doing your own oil change in 2008!
So, what's wrong with changing your own oil? I do it on all my vehicles, except my BMW (its included for free in the first 4 years of ownership). Its a great way to "stay in touch" with your car, and to keep an eye on the mechanics, tires, CV joints/boots, etc...Of course, you have to be somewhat mechanically inclined to do the work.
My next question you is, if you do your own oil change, how are you going to dispose of the old oil?
I don't know where you live, but in South Carolina, any auto parts store is required by law to accept used motor oil/filters...it might even be a federal requirement. In addition, the county landfills accept used oil/filters as well. In both cases, there is no charge.
In my earlier days, I restored several cars, including a 1939 Chevy Master 2-door coupe and a 1941 Dodge D-19 3-window business coupe to their original factory showroom conditions.
Some folks golf for pleasure...I work on cars.
Here in OH, I dump the used oil and filter to the shop I bought them. No charge.
He says this can be repaired by simply replacing the valve cover gasket ?
I read another post that says a leaking value cover gasket will not cause oil to accomulate in a spark plug cylinder.
I would appreciate if other members would chime in with their comments.
Thanks!
For a while there I did my own stuff and was something of an expert working on Morris Oxfords. A very pretty car, but unrelaible. Imagine, an English car whose windshield would leak during the rain! It's best feature, a hand crank to start er up when all else failed. People were amazed to see a crank in circa 1950.
Ist of all, you didn't piss me off. I learned a long time ago that its sometimes difficult to get your true intent expressed in 1 or 2 paragraphs. So, no problem there...
Old Btritish cars were off limits to me...other than an old Triumph Spitfire. That's when I decided British cars were no fun for me.
What's the old joke about why the British like their beer served warm? Its because Lucas (the electrical parts manufacturer for British cars) also made all the refrigerators in England. If you have worked on British cars, I am sure you understand the joke...
Take it easy, Dude!
Are you sure he didn't say replacing the valve guides/seals?
Now, if you simply have oil accumulating around the outside of the sparkplug, replacing the gasket may indeed solve that issue.
He showed me the oil when he removed the spark plug cover and oil was dripping from it.
The repair was to cost me $100.
Can't help but think this was related to your problem...