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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • iamfrnkiamfrnk Member Posts: 2
    It's more of a spring that got moved and vibrates.You mentioned pump, but more of a bump. The noise is predictable and is not random in any way. And the second thing you mentioned, it is only when it starts rolling for the first few feet. thanks in advance.
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    Yup, defintely sounds like it's the ABS unit (servo driven pump motor I think, like on my motorcycle) going through it's initilization. Totally normal. The manual might make some mention of it. I wish dealers imformed their customers about it.
  • winsanwinsan Member Posts: 36
    I rotated the tires of my 03 altima last weekend. I checked the brake pads, and I noticed that the inner pad of the driver side rear brake pads was worn - more than even the front pads. The outer pad was still good. I also noticed that the outer side of the disc was rusted. I would assume the disc would have smooth surface from having friction with the pad. What caused this? Is this serious?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably the caliper is not sliding properly in its guide. Disassemble, clean, grease, reassemble, new pads.

    Visiting Host
  • wrenchturnerwrenchturner Member Posts: 1
    Have you checked to see if its something simple like the trunk light not shutting off?
    It can kill the battery overnight. Its a simple check, you can hop in the trunk and have the lid closed or you can use a test light (looks like a small screwdriver with a light bulb inside the handle and a electrical wire coming out the end of the handle), now when everything has turn off on the car ,disconnect the neg. battery cable, put the test light between the battery terminal an the neg. cable. If the light comes on, something is on. You can then disconnect wires/ take out light bulbs to see if the test light goes out.
  • dkichdkich Member Posts: 1
    I will be picking up my new Altima Hybrid Tuesday and I am a little nervous as to the overall quality ( rattles and squeeks ) that I read about. Are these a common condition of the cars?

    dkich
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    depends on you. if your really picky about those kinds of things, then I'm sure you'll find at least one to complain about. But, if your comfortable with the normal amount of rattles and squeaks that every non-luxury car has, then there's nothing to worry about.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    try checking consumer reports magazine
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    I have an 08 Altima 2.5SL, with a little over 2K miles. Only one squeak/rattle issue, and that was a loose headliner behind the sunroof right after I picked it up. I fixed it myself in 30 seconds (4 months ago), and no re-occurance.

    That's my experince with the car....
  • newnissannewnissan Member Posts: 6
    At least that's what the wrecker driver said when he looked under the hood of the car last night about 11 pm. Driving back the 32 miles from dinner with relatives, I heard a loud thunk and simultaneously the battery light came on, along with the 'brake' light and the brand new Altima SE 3.5 (4cyl) didn't want to drive anymore...or steer either, btw...but somehow, fortunately, 4 separate times when the car bucked and didn't want to go, I gently encouraged the accelerator pedal and then it would pick back up to 40-42 mph and I could go another 8 miles or so and repeated that until I made it safely into well-lit gas station area for the wrecker. I've never heard of a brand new car throwing a belt, serpentine or otherwise at 2600 miles...the dealer will get my call tomorrow morning to come get this and fix it, but has anyone ever heard of this with an Altima? GM, yes, absolutely, but Nissan? I thought not. Hopefully the dealer won't call 2600 miles "normal wear and tear" and try to weasel out of fixing it...had I been on the freeway at 70 mph in big city where I'd been 4 days earlier....it scares me to think what could have happened. :confuse:
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,272
    the belt is warranted for a year so you won;t be paying for this. The engines in this gen Altima are basically carryovers from the last gen so that goes back to 2002. I've never heard of a problem with the belts like that. My 03 has 46k on it and is on it's second belt. The orginal was replaced when the car had about 20 on it.

    You probably just got a defective belt or one that wasn't installed properly. It won't be a chronic issue.
  • newnissannewnissan Member Posts: 6
    good to know it will be covered. the wrecker driver seemed to think the dealer would try the "normal wear and tear" excuse as reason not to warranty and/or reimburse for the towing cost. what disturbed me a bit was at day of signing, the finance manager presented 20 min schpiel on why I should buy the gold preferred extended warranty etc. or the silver if I couldn't afford the gold and it would handle all the oil changes and scheduled maintenance costs. I have 7500 miles to decide...I thought of it as continuous 'ransom' insurance...but now, not maybe as much...I mean it's a brand new car and I stupidly thought I wouldn't need any 'extra' coverage beyond 3 years. Reading the warranty, it's apparently only a 12,000 miles, 12 months bumper to bumper and after that, good luck...it's a lease, too, so I am bound to it for at least 12 months, I think...appreciate the fast response. you don't think I 'hurt' the CVT by driving it the 25 miles back to safety at all? what other checks should I prod the dealer to look for?
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    Reading the warranty, it's apparently only a 12,000 miles, 12 months bumper to bumper

    I'm pretty sure its a 36 month "bumper to bumper", normal maintenance excluded.

    Many factors could have caused your problem, from a flawed belt to a piece of foreign matter getting caught up inside the engine compartment. With your miles, I would have been astonished if the dealer had done anything else than what you described. It is a most unusual occurance, but it can happen, as you well know.

    As far as the CVT, you are fine...there is no connection between the two. Since you never stated that the car was running hot or over-temperature, you should be just fine.

    And remember, the reason that the dealer pushes the extended warranty is because it is a high-profit item, not because he is trying to do you a favor. I certainly wouldn't consider one unless it was a really long-term lease.

    Good Luck!
  • newnissannewnissan Member Posts: 6
    Service manager said Serpentine belt was still there but the water pump belt wasn't...said he could see where the bolt that held the tensioner in place (I hope that is correct) had broken away and it was just there not in place...which explains why I could drive it, I guess. At any rate, it's still in the shop and they're doing a full check on everything....thanks for the advice against the 'ransom' plan...they are also offering a bundle of oil changes at a discounted price up front vs. buying them one at a time...that is a good deal....reading the posts on the board for the next 5-6 months, I'll decide whether mine was a one-time fluke (which I hope it is) or a proverbial source of errors. The car rides well and I'm getting good mileage, and at $3.39 a gallon, if Nissan will just keep me on the road safely, I'll stay and play til lease ends. Thanks again for the help. :D
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    I really do believe that this was a "fluke" occurance and that you will not see any residual issues. Again, good luck!
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    I tend to agree. 2 years into this generation altima and it's looking like Nissan hit a home run. It may be the best under 40k car nissan has ever built.
  • newnissannewnissan Member Posts: 6
    At least the dealer's service manager did them up proudly...no questioning any issue I had, courtesy car offered, fixed it by 4 pm today, and I did ask them to test drive it for me, and I have restored faith in the car with how they approached it, and me. They also reassured me that everything was covered for 36/36,000 except tire alignment and air conditioner coolant (after 12 months). Appreciate the insight and expertise of those respondents here...informed and helpful. Thanks. :)
  • smallcar1smallcar1 Member Posts: 76
    I have a '96 Altima and the lower control arms are rusting and will need to be replaced soon.

    What should the labor charge for this be?

    Has anyone used aftermarket parts? The dealer wants $237 for 1 control arm just for the part but on the Internet aftermarket control arms w/ ball joints are about $129-$139.
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    dealerships and repair shops both mark up parts they install, they never sell them at cost. Its just the way the industry works. the amount of markup depends on the part. anyways, a control arm is a fairly basic repair that any shop can do do. No way I go to a dealership for it, nor buy the part from them.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    My altima has only 60k miles on it. Ever since day one, I get around 20mpg. The only way I can do better is on highways, when I may be driving around 70mph. Then I get around 30mph. I baby my cars, always change oil & filter at around 3,000, even though the manual says 6,000. Over the years I have many cars go for well beyond the "normal" life expectancy. Recently I changed the air filter. It was faitly dirt free. Oh, my low mileage is because locally I do a lot of stop and go driving. I guess the posted fuel on the sticker was wishful thinking.

    I think the plugs might be the cultprit on mileage. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,272
    I've got the same car as you with 46k on it. My experience has always been the same as your: 20 local/30 highway. I'd like it to be higher but guess that it's just the way it is. It just doesn't seem that a Nissan will get as good mileage as the other Japanese big 2. It's probably a sacrifice in the name of a little more power. 175 horse is good for a 2.5. It drives pretty effortlessly at 80 on the highway.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    Thanks. I would love to trade in the milage for a better turn radius.
  • dotson901dotson901 Member Posts: 4
    I had someone look at the distributor on my car and they put the plugs back on wrong. Does anyone know the order that they are suppose to be in or where I can find out? Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks, Erica :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
  • Have a 94 GXE that my son now drives and I'm tired of the cheap hub caps. Anyone put inexpensive aluminum wheels on and how do they look and hold up. Color of car is Champaign. Looked at some Sport Editions on TireRack, but not sure what finish will look best on my car.

    Thanks

    Ken
  • Sorry color is Beige not Champaign. Champaign is on my Van. I want the Sport Edition CD, bright satin w/machine lip wheels. Thinking about having TireRack ship them with a set of Michelin Pilots already on the rims and tuned.

    Any thoughts and anyone with these wheels?

    Ken
  • alt08slalt08sl Member Posts: 2
    does anyone know how to change out the bulbs on a 08 altima. there is no way to get to back of the lamp assembly
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    I have the shop manual...tell me the bulbs to which you are referring and I will look it up for you...
  • alt08slalt08sl Member Posts: 2
    to change the headlights low beam
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    This is fairly complicated, as you must drop the front bumper cover to change the bulb. I have pasted the text here, and the associated text with each step as well.

    Since this is a new car, why don't you have the dealer do this repair? Its under warranty, you know...

    In any case, good luck!

    HEADLAMP
    CAUTION:
    • Do not touch the glass of bulb directly by hand. Keep grease and other oily substances away from
    bulb. Do not touch bulb by hand while it is lit or right after being turned off, burning may result.
    • Do not leave bulb out of fog lamp reflector for a long time, dust, moisture, and smoke may affect performance
    of fog lamp.
    Removal
    1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
    2. Position the fender protector aside. Refer to EXT-19, "Removal and Installation"
    3. Turn the headlamp bulb sockets counterclockwise to unlock and remove them (halogen).
    4. Remove the plastic cover, disconnect the ignitor, unlock the retaining spring to unlock and remove the
    bulb (xenon only).
    5. Turn the high beam lamp bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock and remove it.
    Installation
    CAUTION:
    After installing the bulb, be sure to install the plastic cap securely to ensure watertightness.

    EXT-19
    REMOVAL
    1. Remove the engine under cover. Refer to EXT-13, "Removal and Installation - Coupe".
    2. Remove the screw from center mudguard.
    3. Remove the fender protector screws and clips.
    4. Remove the fender protector.
    INSTALLATION
    Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

    EXT-13
    REMOVAL
    1. Remove the front fender protectors RH and LH. Refer to EXT-19, "Removal and Installation".
    2. Remove the engine under cover.
    3. Remove the RH and LH side under covers.
    4. Remove the fog lamp if equipped. Refer to EXL-240, "Removal and Installation".
    5. Remove the front bumper fascia clips and screws, then remove the front bumper fascia.
    EXT-14
    [COUPE]
    FRONT BUMPER
    6. Remove the front grille. Refer to EXT-17, "Removal and Installation".
    7. Remove the front energy absorbing foam.
    8. Remove the front bumper reinforcement and reinforcement bracket.
    9. Remove the front bumper supports.
    INSTALLATION
    Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

    EXL-240

    REMOVAL
    The fog lamp is a semi-sealed beam type which uses a replaceable halogen bulb.
    CAUTION:
    • Do not leave fog lamp assembly without bulb for a long period of time. Dust, moisture, smoke, etc.
    entering the fog lamp body may affect the performance. Remove the bulb from the headlamp assembly
    just before replacement bulb is installed.
    • Grasp only the plastic base when handling the bulb. Never touch the glass envelope. Touching the
    glass could significantly affect the bulb life and/or fog lamp performance.
    1. Remove inner splash shield.
    2. Position the fender protector aside. Refer to EXT-19, "Removal and Installation".
    3. Disconnect the fog lamp electrical connector.
    4. Remove bolt from top of fog lamp.
    5. Remove fog lamp.
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    You may be able to access the online manual using the link below...

    http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/latest-uploads/4029-2008-nissan-altima-service-ma- nual.html
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Very helpful, thank you for posting this!!

    Alt08sl, let us know how it works out for you.
  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Member Posts: 241
    have to do my first oil change on my altima v6 coupe. any tips, on how to get under the car and what to remove to get to the oil filter. on my 03 murano, it was pretty easy, only had to turn the wheels to the right to get access to the filter. thanks, rr70
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    You have got to be kidding us! Doing your own oil change in 2008! Most dealers have promo coupons for under $30.00 I, however, don't like waiting around and my local gas station does good work and gets me in and out faster. :P That is worth the 10 or more so dollars they might charge me over and above dealer. At the same time, I am building a business relationship with a competent garage that might have to save my donkey at some future time for a major problem. My next question you is, if you do your own oil change, how are you going to dispose of the old oil?
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    I have the shop manual for the 2008 Altima, and the process to change the oil is very straight forward. You should not have any problems if you have changed the oil on other vehicles...

    You have got to be kidding us! Doing your own oil change in 2008!

    So, what's wrong with changing your own oil? I do it on all my vehicles, except my BMW (its included for free in the first 4 years of ownership). Its a great way to "stay in touch" with your car, and to keep an eye on the mechanics, tires, CV joints/boots, etc...Of course, you have to be somewhat mechanically inclined to do the work.

    My next question you is, if you do your own oil change, how are you going to dispose of the old oil?

    I don't know where you live, but in South Carolina, any auto parts store is required by law to accept used motor oil/filters...it might even be a federal requirement. In addition, the county landfills accept used oil/filters as well. In both cases, there is no charge.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    Obviously you are retired. It is hard to justify as cost effective and the time and effort probably could be used productively by visitng residents of senior citizen and independent living facilities, many of whom don't get visits except from family members on holidays such as christmas. As a life time do it yourselfer, I would caution you to be wary whenever you go under your car to do work. Hydraulic jacks are not to be trusted. Ideally, owning a home with a pit is wonderful.
  • karpediemkarpediem Member Posts: 46
    Just to let you guys know, you can access the bulbs just by turning the wheels (left if you are changing the passenger side, turn them right to do the drivers side) and pop out the plastic rivets of the wheel well, and pull it back.....no need to remove the bumper.
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    As a matter of fact, I do own a hydraulic lift and a 4-bay garage. And, as you guessed, I am 53 and retired, but I have always performed the general maintenance on all of my vehicles.

    In my earlier days, I restored several cars, including a 1939 Chevy Master 2-door coupe and a 1941 Dodge D-19 3-window business coupe to their original factory showroom conditions.

    Some folks golf for pleasure...I work on cars.
  • winsanwinsan Member Posts: 36
    There's nothing wrong changing oil ourselves. I do that, and I'm not retired. I like doing it.
    Here in OH, I dump the used oil and filter to the shop I bought them. No charge.
  • levinlllevinll Member Posts: 2
    Upon taking my 1997 Altima in to get an oil change the mechanic shows me that there is oil in one of my spark plug cylinders. The other three cylinders have no oil in them.

    He says this can be repaired by simply replacing the valve cover gasket ?

    I read another post that says a leaking value cover gasket will not cause oil to accomulate in a spark plug cylinder.

    I would appreciate if other members would chime in with their comments.

    Thanks!
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Member Posts: 78
    I envy your position. As a matter of fact I had always hoped that I could get a house with a built in bay. I am sorry if I pissed you off and you have my deep apology.

    For a while there I did my own stuff and was something of an expert working on Morris Oxfords. A very pretty car, but unrelaible. Imagine, an English car whose windshield would leak during the rain! It's best feature, a hand crank to start er up when all else failed. People were amazed to see a crank in circa 1950.
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    Skinsfan3,

    Ist of all, you didn't piss me off. I learned a long time ago that its sometimes difficult to get your true intent expressed in 1 or 2 paragraphs. So, no problem there...

    Old Btritish cars were off limits to me...other than an old Triumph Spitfire. That's when I decided British cars were no fun for me.

    What's the old joke about why the British like their beer served warm? Its because Lucas (the electrical parts manufacturer for British cars) also made all the refrigerators in England. If you have worked on British cars, I am sure you understand the joke...

    Take it easy, Dude!
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    If you have oil in a cylinder, replacing the valve cover gasket will NOT fix the problem.

    Are you sure he didn't say replacing the valve guides/seals?

    Now, if you simply have oil accumulating around the outside of the sparkplug, replacing the gasket may indeed solve that issue.
  • levinlllevinll Member Posts: 2
    I may have indeed mispoke when I indicated what repair the mechanic said my car needed

    He showed me the oil when he removed the spark plug cover and oil was dripping from it.

    The repair was to cost me $100.
  • bob212bob212 Member Posts: 1
    I get these codes off the blinks with the service engine light 3 long and 4 short which comes up as knock sensor and 10 long 5 short which comes up as egr solenoid valve and EVAP canister purge control solenoid valvue circut is open or shorted. Does anyone know what I should do to correct the above or how to test them.
  • montecarloss9montecarloss9 Member Posts: 8
    u might have 2 get them out like its done on the 04-08 maximas that is taking the inner fender wall loose dropping the front bumper cover about 3 inches then remove the air filter box also take all screws bolting the actual headlight down loose i know it sounds like a lot but thats how they're actually removed i used to work at a nissan dealer here in new orleans most of all the new model nissans are made like that something simple as changing a light bulb is a pain in the butt good luck with changing your bulbs
  • montecarloss9montecarloss9 Member Posts: 8
    i worked at a nissan dealer(eric hill nissan in new orleans east) for a long time i always owned GMs and i hate the fact that people always are so quick to uplift imports like they are bulletproof i saw so many nissans come in and out the shop with the same problems american cars have or worst that goes to show u aint no car import or american is built like fort knox the nissan altima has about 7 recalls visit your dealer dont be surprised at what u discover
  • jerryd5533jerryd5533 Member Posts: 1
    It sounds like you're driving my car. Check for a fuel leak. I have a 1994 Altima and was experiencing the same problem. I finally found a small but significant, intermitting stream of fuel coming from underneath the car...behind the passenger side front wheel. So I knew it was in the area. I traced the line (was underneath the car...never fun), and made my own repair. Car runs great again. And I am no longer losing gas!!!
  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490
    Last week, I received a recall notice on the Altima 2.5 08 models, regarding the improper torque settings on the bolts that secure the serpentine belt idler arm. Took it in today, and the dealer replaced the bolts and torqued them properly (I hope). Took 2 hours total.

    Can't help but think this was related to your problem...
  • jft26jft26 Member Posts: 35
    Does anyone know where I can get something like a Chilton's Complete Repair Manual or a Shop Manual for my 2006 Altima? Thank you.
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