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The Bose radio, and many others, have SSV - Speed Sensitive Volume ... the volume increases as the noise level in the car increases ... this can happen as you increase speed which can increase noise from tires, engine, wind noise, even crying babies or kids acting up, and will raise if you yell at them to stop ... you can adjust the sensivity level from the "audio" button on your radio ...
When slowing down, CVT transmission will "give way" a little as the belt and cones adjust themselves ... happened to me first when I was selling the old Subaru Justy ... it's a little unnerving at first - just have to get accustomed to it, sorta like getting used to the car's behavior when the Dyncmic Control activates, or, in the case of the Altima Hybrid, when the car shifts into and out of electric mode ... just one of those things technology brings into play which we are not accustomed to ...
The AC doesn't do its job anymore...when i turn it on, it makes a "dzzzzzz"...sorta like a hose emptying its last amount of gas....no cold air.
When I drive, I can hear a da-dump, da-dump, da-dump sound coming from my back tires....the back tires have slight bumps found in the middle of tire tread.
When I try to start the car, it fails to turn on immediately...rather it sounds like the motor doesnt have gas, after pumping the gas peddle it turns on and when it does the motor shakes.
when the motor is in park and idles, it now makes a noticible bu-bump, bu-bump sound until I place it in drive.
I never done a spark plug change....
I now jack about car maintenance...what do i do? help
New tires and recharging the AC may solve two of the problems. You may want them to check with die for a freon leak in the AC system.
Other problems will need someone to look at. Can be a number of possibilities.
Ken
I thought I could just take it to a mechanic, but I wonder how I could do this on my own....where do I look for information about these basics and more advanced things? I'm trying to cut on costs. I'm quick learner, but I need info.
Good Luck,
Ken
I contact Nissan NA to ask for some assistance, they say I need a dealer to diagnose the problem. So I take it to my local dealer, pay the $110 diagnostic fee which confirms what we already know. I get back in touch with Nissan and they open a file and tell me someone will get back to me shortly. Emma calls me with a robotic scripted response that she is obviously accustomed to reciting. "After a review of your file, Nissan is not in a position to provide any financial assistance". I asked her what the decision was based on, but received no details. I offered her copies of all of the maintenance records (oil changed every 5,000 miles but not at the dealer) but she doesn't want to see them. I ask her to have a supervisor to contact me.
About 2 hours later I receive a call from the supervisor, Christopher Lucci. What a beauty! I explain the situation to him and let him know that I can supply him with the service records and let him know that this is my second Nissan and that I will be purchasing a new vehicle in 2010 so their decision will weigh heavily on whether or not I purchase another Nissan. I explain that there is no way a timing chain should fail with just over 60,000 miles and that I hope Nissan will stand behind their product. I also explain that I'm 45 years old and probably in a demographic that they want to attract. He states that as Emma stated "Nissan will not be able to provide any financial assistance and we did stand behind our product by honoring the warranty". I ask if there would any additional consideration or is this decision final. His response is that the decision is final.
So I say "thank you for your consideration, but you lost me as a future customer and I will make it my business to make sure I tell everyone I encounter not to buy a Nissan". His response "that is awesome!, it's great that we live in a country where you can do that, spread the word if you like". I said "excuse me?" He repeats it with a real smug attitude. So I respond 'with a customer service attitude like this, I think its time a start buying cars that are made in this great country, after all, they stand behind their product (GM 100K, Chrysler Lifetime). The bonehead could care less.
Now that spring is almost here, I'm hoping to get a second set of 16" wheels to put our summer tires on (to avoid mounting & balance charges each year).
I was hoping to get a matching set to our existing 2008 6-spoke OEM alloys, but since it has a very common bolt pattern (5x114.3), I've considered 16" wheels from other cars (Mazda6, Ford Mustang, Mitsubishi, etc).
Would I encounter problems with hub sizing or offsets using wheels other than Nissan's????
BTW- If anyone in the Seattle/Portland area wants to sell their current Altima wheels & tires, I'd consider buying.
Help
and a bit of advice for the furture. people tend to sell higher milage cars becase they know there is something wrong.
Anyways the way to tell if your Altima was made in the good plant is if the 11th position in your VIN # is a C or an N.
N is for Canton, Mississippi which is the type of 04/05 Altima you probably don't want as they had problems when they first opened
.
C is for Smyrna (Nashville), Tennessee which represents an Altima that will most likely have very few quality problems. This plant had been in operation since 1992.
This is where I got my info, and I haven't looked any more into it, but it seemed reputable enough:
http://www.texas-cars-and-dealerships.com/nissanaltima2005.html
I have the same problem with the sound coming from the front wheels.i have 18 inch rims and new tires on all of them. I have an 05 altima v6.if you also have 18s then it solves both our problems.if not then im hoping its nothing major for the sake of both of us.
And In terms of the sound that you hear coming from the ac, i believe its a leaking hose.That what the nissan dealer told me.I have the same problem.dealer estimated $599 to repair. Damn stealerships!
And does any one know why when i put my car from park to drive it jerks? done a transmission flush but its still the same.Can it be the filter?
We got the car tested for Carbon monoxide, it was negative. We don’t know what to do anymore; anyone experienced that kind of issues??
Find a person who can take an air sample of your car on the inside while running and maybe with the AC on then off. It could be off-gassing from the fabric or carpet flooring.
You could also google your problem and see what comes up.
Good Luck,
Ken
Any one can help me further clarify this code or help me with further trouble shoot.
Thanks.
I have a Nissan altima 2003 model, bought this couple of months ago. it has 37K miles on it. for some reason am not getting a good mileage on this one at all.the max is around 16mpg.other thing is i dont drive much on this one. very few times do i travel on interstates.its mainly used for city use. even then, i would expect any thing around 20+ mpg. any known issues with car ??
Stay away from jackrabbitt starts. Think about how much it takes for an engine to start from a stop and get up yo speed you are looking for. I try to time my stopping for lights by slowing down or coasting to them. I am now at 70k miles and think the 03 is perhaps the best altima nissan produced. You hardly ever see them up or sale.
Would it be an easy DIY job for me to look at it, or should I take it to the dealer? If I were to look at it, how would I get to it?
It's the only thing in the car that's making noise and it's driving me up the wall.
Anyone else feel this or is it just me? Thanks
Ken
I vote for the 2008 because it had warranty left on it and comes with lots of airbags and ABS. Some of the 2006's have ABS, but not side airbags. He is 19 and could care less about safety.
He will (without a doubt) be putting bigger rims on it, I've heard him mention 20's, 18's minimum. He WILL be putting in a sub, amp and head unit (wants some DVD thing). So there is no point in getting one with upgraded sound and steering wheel controls.
This stuff will void out parts of his warranty, right? Making the warranty on the '08 less of an issue.
Altima redesigned in 2007? Is that year one to stay away from? I had told him re-design years are usually bad. I have an 06 Murano that is great (really low miles though) and read horror stories on the early model years, that is why I am afraid of the 2007. SHould we be afraid of the '07? 2007 would give him a little warranty...I like the idea of him getting the "newer" design for value, but the '06 has a nice price! (most of the cars with good prices are fleet or rentals)
OR, he hasn't looked at the Accord. HOw does that compare safety wise, price wise?
I own a 1995 Altima bought new that now has 287,000 miles on it( still runs great and everything works on it ) and I have a 2008 Altima that will be 2 years old in Nov , has 20,000 on it now.
I love that car. My aunt had a 2006 and had multiple problems with it, you may want to check this forum for 2006 problems.
The 08 also drives, and handles better than the 06. If you test drive both models, I think you will see a difference in the response of the engine and handling.
8 months ago my oil change guy noticed my battery (original factory install) was not keeping a good charge and recommended that I replace it. Of course, I didn’t take him up on his advice So two days ago the light pulsing started and I assumed that it might be the battery (which I needed, anyway). I installed a new battery last night but the lights are still blinking.
I almost wish the lights were “completely dead” so I would have a better idea about a fuse or something. The blinking isn’t random – it’s a pattern – so I don’t think it’s a short. There isn’t any engine clicking or anything and I haven’t had any problems starting the car. No “check XYZ” lights are lit up on my dash. I haven’t installed a new anti-theft device or anything like that. I have had satellite radio in the car for three years with no issues.
The headlights (and interior lights) aren’t dim but the blinking is driving me crazy. And I'm worried that at some point the engine will have problems and I'll get stranded somewhere. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks!!
JC
The effect of the clutch button is to prevent starting the car. The effect of the brake button is that the brake lights will stay on. It may affect using cruise control too. The buttons (called plungers) are a dealer item but are inexpensive. Getting them installed is tricky.
It's awkward to drive around with the brake lights always on, but when you park you'll want to pull the fuse for the relevant circuit so as not to burn out the battery, and put it back in next time you drive.
(Seems like there is a third such button but I forgot what it was for. Maybe the cruise control has its own button on the clutch.)
NISSAN ENGINE FAILURES
Once the material from the disintegrated filter in the BPT valve was cleaned up, the EGR system checked OK (used Actron CP9180 Scanner) , and the MIL (check engine light) indicator has not come back since then.
Any one has any idea if (where) I can get some foam to cut in the right shape and use that as the filter (I am sure that that driving the car without the filter/foam would cause issues down the road). Local parts stores do carry this item (neither the BPT valve nor the filter/foam). This seems to a dealer item and is sold as the complete assembly ($90 ~$100); the foam/filter is not sold separately. Is this even a good idea to try to buy the foam/filter (to save some good money)?
Any help/fedback is appreciated.
Am I missing something?
ALSO, I thought the oil looked a little darker than it should for recently being changed. It seemed darker near the tip of the stick too. Is this a sign that the previous owner (lease--now thinking he may have skipped maintenance!) or is it possible that it gets a little darker from sitting around? I may even be wrong. It's not black or anything....
I'm going to ask them to change it again. QUESTION is, IF it hadn't been maintained up till now, am I screwed in any way? Should I switch to synthetic?
Since it is under warranty, is there anything i should have checked out now?
Dealer is fairly large, and seemed really great. (no haggle pricing). I hope it is all as good as it seems!
To qualify for our definition of a "certified used" vehicle, the warranty must be backed by the original vehicle manufacturer. The original manufacturer of the vehicle is using its dealer network to inspect the car, determine if it is worth certifying and then offer support for the vehicle for a period of time beyond the original warranty. Not all used cars can qualify for certified pre-owned programs, and terms vary from one brand to the next, but any true certified pre-owned program will include at least a 100-point inspection of the car. If problems are found, the factory-trained technicians will fix it or disqualify the car from the program. The certified warranty protection typically takes effect when the original warranty expires and, like a new car warranty, offers coverage for a certain number of years or miles, whichever comes first.
Used cars sold with third-party warranties are sometimes advertised as "certified" but are not truly factory-certified because the authority and expertise of the vehicle's manufacturer is not standing behind the "warranty" in any way. In fact, the term "warranty" may be misleading, as third-party warranties are really just extended service contracts that the buyer must purchase at an additional cost. Extended service contracts can usually be purchased for any vehicle, and the vehicle's manufacturer is not involved in any coverage promised by the aftermarket service contract. A true warranty offers coverage that is included in the original purchase price.
The major downside to third-party service contracts is that they often obligate the customer to pay for needed repairs up front, and then wait for a reimbursement check; some require the payment of a deductible that can vary from $50 to $400. In addition, there is always the risk that the insurance company or other underwriter of the service contract will not be around to honor the warranty when a claim is made — this risk is much less when the responsible party is a vehicle manufacturer. Also, most extended service contracts do not require the rigorous inspection and repair procedures that a real certified program offers.
We checked the pressure about 20 minutes after he got home from school, about 1.5 mile ride and the driver front was 32 and the others were about 37. I think they are the original tires. They are Conti-something.
I've read that even though the door says 32, that many people keep them higher.
So, is the light most likely on because 3 are over-filled, one is under-filled, or because one of the four doesn't match the other 3??
Never had this type of monitoring system before...
Also, I think the back two have more tread than the front two. Have no records on it to speak of. Is it best to rotate them now going into summer. Son drives about 10k year. No idea if they've ever been rotated. I'm thinking that since it's front wheel drive, and the front are more worn that the owner (private lease) might not have ever rotated causing the front to wear more. Does this make proper sense?
I want to get him started off right. Thanks
Inflate them all to 35 psi, then give it up to 20 miles. If the light does not go off, there may be a problem with the TPMS system itself...
Good luck.
Lastly, this tpms is not going to affect anything regarding safety or driveability right? I mean could we drive without the sensors and be fine? We'd just have a light on.
I live in NJ. It's known to be a bit of a "nanny" state. You fail inspection if the check engine light is on, I'm sure it's a matter of time before they fail us for the tire light!
Thanks for your help. We just got rid of an older car that made me neurotic about what could go wrong next or what maintenance/repair was needed. Got this much newer one to avoid that! (and of course I find something to obsess over anyway!)
If the light stays on, in MOST cases it's a sensor in the wheel itself that can go bad, which isn't too expensive to fix. If it's still under the Nissan warranty, it should be covered fully under the Nissan warranty.
Lastly, this tpms is not going to affect anything regarding safety or driveability right? I mean could we drive without the sensors and be fine? We'd just have a light on.
It'll be fine. Case in point: we bought separate winter tires/wheels for my wife's '07 Altima, and at the time, the TPMS sensors were WAY too expensive (over $100 apiece!) to even consider, so we go without them for the winter. The only thing that happens is the TPMS light flashing for the first 30 seconds after start-up, then it stays on. It doesn't affect any other system, and since I check the tire pressure religiously...
I live in NJ. It's known to be a bit of a "nanny" state. You fail inspection if the check engine light is on, I'm sure it's a matter of time before they fail us for the tire light!
If NY doesn't fail you (where I live), then I highly doubt that NJ would, although I could be wrong...
Thanks for your help. We just got rid of an older car that made me neurotic about what could go wrong next or what maintenance/repair was needed. Got this much newer one to avoid that! (and of course I find something to obsess over anyway!)
You're not alone. I obsess over NEW cars just as much.
keep in mind, air does pass through the tires (in very small amounts), and over time you tires will go flat.
And if I'm not mistaken, a 10% drop in tire pressure will trigger the TPMS light.