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Has anyone else encountered this problem? My fear is the mirrors coming loose when I'm on the highway. Not sure if there is a solution, short of always checking the mirrors for a tight fit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!.
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In the meantime, you can release the lever in most cars by inserting a screwdriver into a little slot next to the gearshift. You may have to pry up a little plastic tab to do this.
If you're another unfortunate soul facing a costly repair, please call Nissan Consumer Affairs @ 800-647-7261 8-5 in your timezone and let them know they have a problem. Right now they've "never heard of this before!"
I will be in the market shortly for a late-model sedan and the Altima is on my shortlist. What are owner's experinces out there? Is the Altima for me? Thanks!
The car has 19k miles on it and the salesman told me that they had put new tires on it. I thought that seemed early for tires, but just thought "BONUS" that I got new tires. Now it seems that it must be a symptom of a problem. I did read about brake issues on the '07 and '08 models, but Consumer Reports had good ratings on this car.
I am going back to the dealer on Monday (bought last Monday) and will ask the dealer about it, but I am beginning to not trust any auto sales or repair people. I also just noticed that the center console on the car is loose. It appears that the bolts in the rear of the console have been removed.
If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate hearing them.
Currently, every time I get it "fixed" for routine maintenance, something else comes up.
I had the steering column components replaced since the steering wheel was shaking but now there's vibration through the floor & gas/brake pedals at hwy speeds when it wasn't there before. Now I have to bring my car back into the dealership to fix the rear seat latch which doesn't work and to see what it can do about the vibration.
I already bought all 4 new tires and brakes ~2 months ago with the tires balanced and 4 wheel alignment at a decent local tire store. Everything was FINE then!
No matter what I do, there's always something "wrong" with the car.
I've noticed SO many people stating about vibrations in their car. WTH is going on with Nissan's cars?! You fix the tires, fix the brakes, balance/rotate the tires, get an alignment, fix the steering column, fix the suspension components, fix the struts... WTH should be fixed next?!
Nissan really has a Quality Control issue and owners like us are paying DEARLY for it!
Thank good my car still has some warranty remaining. When it runs out next year, I'll probably trade it in for a BETTER car!
Remember that Nissan Altimas are built entirely in the USA with many components made in North America. Maybe it should be brought BACK to Japan so the quality would improve!!
The jolts are getting stronger but the car runs smooth other than that and the engine seems powerful. Please advise as it is my first car and I dont know what to do.
Good Luck.
Thanks
1. MY HEAT DOESNT BLOW OUT WHEN I START MY CAR UP AND LET IT RUN, I HAVE TO PHYSICALLY DRIVE IT AROUND SO THAT THE HEAT WILL BLOW OUT, WHEN I STOP AT A STOP LIGHT IT BLOWS OUT COLD AIR AS WELL.
2. I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND MY RADIO, AND DASH BOARD(SPEEDOMETER, GAS HAND IS) LIGHTS JUST WENT OUT. THEY NO LONGER WORK
3. WHEN I PARK MY CAR WHICH SOMETIMES I PARK ON THE GRASS IN FRONT OF MY HOME, I HEAR THIS RUSHING WATER SOUND, AND THIS BEADING NOISIE COMING FROM THE REAR VIEW MIRROR AND THE DASH BOARD
HAS ANYONE ENCOUNTERED THESE PROBLEMS???????????
I am new to the boards .My name is Bill and I have a 2006 Altima that I am sure I have a broken motor mount in it .Can anyone give me an idea of how difficult this is to fix ? Or better yet would it be covered under Warranty as I am the 7 year 100000 mile warranty on it .And if all else fail any idea on how much it should cost to have it repaired at the dealership ? Dont get me wrong ...I dont mind doing it myself but I dont want to get into something way over my head or waste my time if the warranty will cover it . Thank you everyone for any input you can provide !
Now here a month ago, I was just driving down the interstate and the air starts blowing full blast? The climate control knob seems as it is stripped??
Frustrating I know, I guess it could be something worst perhaps like a transmission or bad engine?? Still totally blows, cause the first problem has yet to be fixed....:((
a) phillips screw driver
b) approx 1/16" diameter metal wire (I used picture-hanging wire)
c) exact-o knife / razor blade
d) needle-nose pliers
e) electric drill w/ approx 1/16" drill bit
Nissan Altima Sun Visor Fix Photo
I know it's kind of rigged, but if you're handy, you should be able to look at the picture and see what I did. Also, here's a shot an explaining the process: The idea is to re-join the bracket and the visor post using two wires, without the post slipping out of the broken bracket, so you need to have some of the part of the bracket that surrounds the post in-tact for this to work. After removing the bracket, I drilled a hole through the two little flanges behind the broken part of the bracket to hold the lower wire in place. I wrapped two 3" pieces of wire around the bracket, one on top, just under the head of the post, and one about 1/2" under that. Then, marked where the wires were touching the plastic and temporarily removed the wires. At those marks, using an exacto, I made small notches / grooves, about 1/2 of the diameter of the wire deep, where the wire touches the bracket and around the post, to help keep the wire from slipping up or down. The upper wire rests just under the "head"
of the post, so it already has a nice little place to grab. Then, wrap the wires around again, seating them into your notches and tighten with the pliers about three rotations or when it feels really tight. Then, cut off any excess wire, as there is not a lot of room for these when you go to install. Your assembly should resemble mine when finished. this is ready for installation, just screw it back in place and have a great day!
Thanks for taking the time to write out such detailed instructions, and for providing a photo. I know you responded to a post from 2007, but I can't tell you how many times people come across info like yours, years later, and find just the fix they were looking for.
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From what you describe, the behavior is normal because there isn't an abrupt gear change.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4o7MaM6tk9M
Car has 85,000 miles, has been garaged since new and is perfect condition except for rusting floor boards. I had this problem with a 15 year old high mileage Corolla but never expected it with a 7 year old, low mileage, garaged vehicle. I even consciously rinse out the undercarriage whenever washing and especially in the spring to rinse out salt.
Dealer pointed out the problem with the last oil change and inspection and said it was probably caused by rocks chipping the metal. BULL.
From reading some forums it seems that this is a common problem but that that some few people have had some success with the dealers covering this. I'm not encouraged but will give it a try then call Nissan Customer Affairs (good luck) then file a complaint with the many others on NHTSB web site:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/
I would recommend anyone with the same problem to file a complaint. Only the NHTSB can order a recall/fix.
(1) Cut out the bad area with a sawsall. It was about 18 in by 10 in. The surrounding are seemed solid
(2) Fit in a 12x18 piece of sheet metal that I got at Home Depot
(3) Attach with steel pop rivets.
(4) Seal the inside with silicon caulking to keep out moisture and fumes
(5) Spray the bottom with several coats of undercoat spray to seal the new piece to the hole in the outer piece
(6) Total cost: Less than $20. I already had the sawsall and pop rivet gun
I was thinking of attaching another piece of sheet metal from the bottom by attaching it to the top piece but thought that this would make it more likely to have water trapped. There is still a hole in the outer layer but the floor boards are solid. My only concern is that the undercoat spray I got was not very thick and I'm not sure if it has sealed all the voids with the hole in the outer layer. I'll shop around for something thicker.
UPDATE:
I used a tube of roofing tar / driveway sealer to fill in the voids where the bottom layer of metal connects to the patch galvanized steel installed from the top. This seemed to have the right consistency to fill the voids and make a watertight seal. I worked it in with a rubber glove. After seeing this I would probably skip the undercoat except to cover the galvanized steel to make it look better or spray it on after using the roofing tar.
I checked the driver side and it is clean and pristine with no hint of rust. I did not see any plugs that could fall out. I didn't pull up the mat but I suspect the driver side does not have the rubbery goop that has a silvery blue color on the top to hold in the top panel.
I've declared victory!!!