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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • hotguitarmanhotguitarman Member Posts: 3
    Altima 2001 GXE with 30,000 miles - getting trim noises from the driver's door - hard to tell if it's from top or bottom, front or back and is intermittent so it goes away at times after slamming door shut but returns. Can't hear anything loose when swinging door open and shut.

    Any ideas ? - maybe speaker wires tapping against door panel or something loose inside power window rails or runners.

    Doesn't always rattle but sometimes over bumps and is driving me nuts enough to trade for another Accord which has more solid trim.
  • dip007007dip007007 Member Posts: 2
    I lost both my sets of aoutomatic locks for my 02 Nissan Altima (year old), even when I did have them it didn't Beep anymore when I tried to lock it from a distance and the lights didn't flicker when I unlocked it - anyone else with such ordeals and how much do those automatic locks run!! ???
  • hotguitarmanhotguitarman Member Posts: 3
    The horn/beeper can be turned on & off - read the owner's manual or see the back of the remote.

    If you push the lock button and the unlock button on the remote at the same time and hold them in for a couple of seconds it will activate/de-activate the beeper. If you hold the lock button down too long it will activate the horn alarm. You turned off your beeper by being clumsy with your fingers or perhaps you sat on it.

    The lights flash twice on my 2001 when I lock it ONLY. Unlocking does not flash the parking lights and never did. Yours is probably the same. The dealer will have to set up the remote for you as they are coded to each individual car.

    And with all due respect if you can't afford to buy a remote you can't afford what you are driving plus this is not an "ordeal". Losing remotes, keys etc and not reading the owner's manual would fall under the category of driver error.
  • ultimaultima Member Posts: 96
    So how do you REALLY feel? C'mon now, say what's really on your mind, quit holding back dude... (:-D Hee-hee-hee...

    By the way (from your screen name), what kind of "rig" ya playing through and what kind of music are ya into?
  • msahmedmsahmed Member Posts: 13
    I have a '95 Nissan Altima GXE/Auto, with about 92K miles on it. It has/had the following problem last week:

    I started the car and put it on reverse gear, the car moved a few feet and then the engine died. I could not start the car on that day again.

    The next day I could start the car, but as soon as I started it, the engine started to stumble. I did put gas and the engine came to normal operating condition. When I was pressing the accelerator, it felt as if the engine was hesitating to rev up. I kept the car running and in about 10 minutes the engine died again. I could not start the engine again on that day.

    I was able to repeat the same sequence one more time (i. e.: start --> stumble-->die-->won't start).

    Before trying to start the car on the 2nd day, I did change the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug, spark plug wire.

    The next thing I suspect would the fuel pump and then the distributor itself.

    I would really appreciate feedback regarding probable cause of the engine failure.
  • janellewjanellew Member Posts: 2
    While backing out of my driveway last week, I got too close to the trash can (the larger ones picked up by the city) and my side mirror on the drivers side came off. There are screws on the inside and holes on one side. It looks as though one of those holes has a broken side.

    Any advice on getting this fixed? Should I take it to a Nissan dealership? I purchased this car last year at Car Max. Any idea about the cost involved?
  • hotguitarmanhotguitarman Member Posts: 3
    We probably shouldn't get into a music discussion on a car site but I use (all modified): 74 Les Paul Custom, 67 Telecaster, 72 Gretsch Country Gentleman (Chet Atkins signature model) thru either a Peavey Tweed tube amp or a Twin Reverb from the sixties. My drummer from Montreal did the track on Mississippi Queen with Mountain when we were 21 and I used the bucks I made playing clubs in NY and Nantucket etc to get educated in Finance and Taxation.
  • ultimaultima Member Posts: 96
    I've owned a Marshall, Carvin, Boogie, GK, Fender, and Peavey amps/heads, but since I stopped playing in bands about 5 years ago, I'm now using a DigiTech RP1 (preamp/effects), Peavey 50/50 Power Amp, and Peavey 4-10 tweed stereo cabinet. For guitars, I've got a 79 Les Paul Standard (Tobacco Sunburst), 72 Gibson Explorer (Hot Rod paint, pick-ups, Kahler, etc.), and Taylor 710 6-String.

    I live in Los Angeles, so I actually did a lot of "behind the scenes" recording for some "popular" acts where the guitar players couldn't cut it -- but of course my name won't appear on any albums... BUT I GOT PAID BABY!!!

    Influences are Eddie Van Halen, Yngwie Malmsteen, Steve Morse, Neal Schon, and others in that genre.

    Ok... Enough music talk -- back to car stuff.

    (:-D
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,277
    I did the same thing on my 99 Civic. Any decent body shop can do it and will probably be less than the dealer. A new mirror will probably be color matched. You can look for used or after-market but you know what they say about "you get what you pay for". For the Civic, for a new power mirrow, I think that it ran me $180.
  • andy2470andy2470 Member Posts: 9
    Check your distributor first. They usually fail at around 100k. Mine did and I had the same symptoms.
  • jjx456jjx456 Member Posts: 41
    I had a leaking CV boot and the dealer replaced the axle under the powertrain warranty. Since that repair, the car's ride seems noticeably more harsh. The tires are not overinflated. Is there something the dealer could have done to cause this? Thanks.
  • tims63tims63 Member Posts: 14
    My 97 Altima has about 92K miles (32K on the engine itself-- different story). My struts are bad, but my mechanic says that won't cause any mechanical problems, only a rough ride. Over the weekend, my wife went a bit fast over a speed bump and the engine light came on. Now, when I start the car, it's a bit rough (i.e., it used to just start right up, now there I can hear a little struggle to start). Any thoughts on this-- whether the starting issue is related to the engine light? As to the speed bump, my wife said she wasn't going that fast (5 mph or less). I read about the distributor items noted in separate messages and wondered if maybe I have some problem in that area. Thanks for any advice.
  • msahmedmsahmed Member Posts: 13
    Any suggestion on how/what to check for distributor malfunction?

    Thanks in advance.
  • tims63tims63 Member Posts: 14
    What a difference a day makes. I made the mistake of driving the car to work; so, of course, it wouldn't start when it was time to go home. I had it towed to my mechanic and was told they had to put a starter in before they could even see if there was anything else wrong.

    So, a car with 92K miles has had: 1. New engine at 59.5K miles (supposedly a crushed oil pan-- no, I haven't run over any boulders); 2. New starter at 92K miles. There is a black cloud hanging over this thing. Anyone have starter problems on their Altima-- is this normal?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    whether you or someone who borrowed your car crushed a boulder and smashed the oil pan...it doesn't matter.

    Engine replacement at 60K due to damage and a starter at nearly 100K - them's small beans, and one could have been prevented.
  • msahmedmsahmed Member Posts: 13
    andy2470 (Thomas A McLelland) thanks for your advice.

    I have changed the distributor on my own, and the car is OK now.
  • aldan93aldan93 Member Posts: 202
    Have 97 GXE, 98K , sounds like a case of neglect, My alitma has almost been flawless, but I do a lot of prevent maint.

    1st I would never drive with the engine light on!!!

    If you have a CEL or engine light, take it to Autozone, they will pull the code for free, tell you what you need etc... If you want to clear the light after a repair has been made, disconnect the battery cable "positive" for 24HRS

    2nd Why a new engine?

    3rd, I would replace the struts, Excessive tire wear?
  • liulhusliulhus Member Posts: 1
    hi mashmad and someone knows it: I got the same problem with my nissan altima 1995, and the garage diagonized and told me the exact same problem as yours, they want to charge me $750 for that, since I think it is too much and decide to do by myself. could you please give me some suggestion how to do it, looks not hard. some suggestion like,
    where to buy distributor, spark plug, wire, cap and how much do you spend?
    the sympton of my car is stumble, stumble again, three days later, it died.

    MY EMAIL ADDRESS IS LIULHUS@YAHOO.COM.
    thanks,
  • rxurxu Member Posts: 5
    My 99 fuel tank has exactly same problem (difficulty to fill it up). I heard somebody called in to click and clack brothers' car talk show to report same thing on his altima. I feel nissan has abnormally high failure rate on this fuel tank and should recall it.
  • andy2470andy2470 Member Posts: 9
    I am the owner of a 96 Nissan Altima with the automatic transmission. I bought it used in 1998 and I now have 201k on the odometer. If anyone with lower mileage has any questions on repairs or problems post it here. If I have any knowledge of it I will reply to you. Chances are that I have been there and done that and could provide info on symptoms and repair costs. By the way, I am not running on the original transmission. It died at 195k.
  • kenhutch9kenhutch9 Member Posts: 1
    95 Altima with 192,000km. Getting engine code for catalytic converter. Dealer wants $1500 to replace front cat, but can't say for sure if it's the problem (rear cat replace 1 year ago). A friend suggested that I can replace the front cat with a pipe and still pass emissions. Any experience with this?
    Thanks
    Ken
  • happymisterhappymister Member Posts: 16
    I got a check engine soon light on my 98 Altima with 47k miles on it.
    Took it to Goodyear and they told me to replace the fuel cap and charged me $80 diagnostic fee. i did it. they reset the light. came back on after 100 miles. another trip to GOodyear. they said i didn't tighten the cap. they reset it for free.

    after another 200 miles. the light came on again. this time went to the dealership and they said that the computer shows 2 codes.. 440 and 1448. and although 440 usually means fuel cap... 1448 supercedes that - and that is the evap control valve that needs replacement.. something about the fuel fumes being sent back to the engine to burn instead of letting into the air polluting the atmosphere. But they claimed that this is not covered under the federal emissions act.

    I checked my manual.. and indeed it says the same.. however, is there a way to verify that feds didn't insist that carmakers warranty this for longer period. Cost was $166 to replace it - $40 for parts and the rest for labor.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    All 1995 and newer vehicle emission control systems must be warrantied for a minimum 2 years or 24,000 miles. Carmakers may provide longer coverage, but are not required to do so. All 1995 and newer vehicle engine control computers and catalytic converters must be warrantied for 8 years or 80,000 miles:

    http://www.epa.gov/otaq/im.htm
  • jagr69jagr69 Member Posts: 1
    When you lightly press the gas on my 98 Altima GXE it surges between 1000 and 1500 RPM. At higher speeds it is fine. Does the car require a tune up or is it something more?
  • silver58silver58 Member Posts: 5
    My 97 Altima GXE, Automatic, is in the shop for the second time in as many weeks. I've seen messages here that point to the distributor rather than the fuel pump. Our mechanic says that no failures were showing up when they ran the report from the car's chip. Well, here's my failure report: First stalled at n'hood stop sign, then again while I turned into a Nissan dealership when I was sneaking around looking at new cars! (Sunday, so service was closed anyway.) Drove it home after another stall on the way out of the lot. Mechanic took over and did the 60,000 maintenance and we thought it was cured. Fast forward now to three days later and I've just pulled off I-95 and stalled twice on the way to the office. Car has about 58,000 miles on it. I bought it used and have had it for five very good years. When we get it back this time I will avoid the interstate until I know it was properly repaired. Any ideas? Specifically, the engine doesn't sound as smooth as it used to and then the warning lights come on and suddenly I realize I'm going nowhere -- very little fanfare!
  • bonniedbonnied Member Posts: 7
    Can anyone suggest a way to turn off the AC unit after you have turned on the defogger? Nissan has redesigned the 2003 so that once you turn on the defogger the AC comes on and you cannot turn it off. You can turn off the blower but when you turn on the heater, the AC unit comes on also. You can only turn it off by turning the car off. This kills my gas mileage and makes the car much colder. It never really gets hot once your turn on the defogger.
  • abpelch1abpelch1 Member Posts: 48
    The defogger automatically turns on the a/c unit on every car made, not just the Altima. The defogger will not clear the windows without the a/c on. The a/c it dries the air, removing the humidity which causes the windows to fog up. You'll just have to live with the colder air & worse mileage if you want to see out of your windows.
  • bonniedbonnied Member Posts: 7
    I know the ac comes on but the problem is that there is no way to turn it off. This is new this year and Nissan claims it is a "safety" issue. That is bs. The ac unit will now never shut off in the winter, thereby shortening the life of my compressor and thereby shortening the life of my car. It is planned obsolescence on the part of Nissan. Not to mention the car never gets warm. I live in New England and if I had known this would never have bought this car and will never buy another Nissan. I am enough of an adult to turn on the ac unit when it is needed and to SHUT it off when not needed. I do not have that option now.
  • mehuljmehulj Member Posts: 15
    Hi,

    I've 2001 Altima GXE with 68K miles on it. I've done regular oil change but recently I've noticed a problem (after my oil change at dealer) that when I stop on signal (or any place) after 1/2 minutes the car starts shaking littlebit and you can feel it. Once I start driving it drives properly without any problem. I've noticed two things recently noise from my engine has increased and it is not driving smooth as it used to drive (might be bcoz now I'm also driving Honda Ody as a second car along with this). Would like to know if anyone else had similar problem.

    thanks

    MJ
  • cheenahcheenah Member Posts: 4
    Hi, just trying to inquire if it's just my car. I recently experienced 3 months and now a year after owning my car, that my driver side window would not go down. The dealer fixed it the first time, and I' ma bout to take it them again. Also now my lcd light when I push my alarm button on my key fob, does not blink any more. The car is locked but you do not see the red light on the dash board. Has anyone had these problems before so soon on a fairly new altima, and if so discovered what the reason was for it. I hope I don't have a lemon as I adore my jada (my altima). Thanks..
  • cheenahcheenah Member Posts: 4
    Hi, just trying to inquire if it's just my car. I recently experienced 3 months and now a year after owning my car, that my driver side window would not go down. The dealer fixed it the first time, and I' ma bout to take it them again. Also now my lcd light when I push my alarm button on my key fob, does not blink any more. The car is locked but you do not see the red light on the dash board. Has anyone had these problems before so soon on a fairly new altima, and if so discovered what the reason was for it. I hope I don't have a lemon as I adore my jada (my altima). Thanks..
  • yltnelisyltnelis Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know of a good, reputable mechanic in the Montgomery County Maryland area? I have a 2001 Altima, and I've noticed a wet spot under my car for the past couple of days. I know it's not oil, I'm just not certain exactly what it is. I just passed emissions inspection a week ago. I don't want to take it to the dealer, but I do want to get it checked out, so if you know of a good mechanic I'd appreciate the info.
  • mehuljmehulj Member Posts: 15
    Hi,

    I drive Nissan Altima 2001 GXE (my first car) apart from my 03 Ody EX. I've nearly 70K miles on my car and since last two weeks I'm seeing an issue (after oil change at dealer). If I'm waiting at signal (or anywhere) for more then 30sec then car starts shaking lightly. Once I start driving the shaking is gone. Any idea what could be wrong ? My RPM meter starts moving between 500 and 750 RPM range during this period. Shaking of car is not happening during normal driving condition.

    thanks

    MJ
  • yltnelisyltnelis Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know of a good, reputable mechanic in the Montgomery County Maryland area? I have a 2001 Altima, and I've noticed a wet spot under my car for the past couple of days. I know it's not oil, I'm just not certain exactly what it is. I just passed emissions inspection a week ago. I don't want to take it to the dealer, but I do want to get it checked out, so if you know of a good mechanic I'd appreciate the info.
  • yltnelisyltnelis Member Posts: 4
    OK, since I didn't get a response regarding a mechanic, I'm going to post the problem I'm having here. One of you guys HAS to have the answer to this. I have a 2001 GXE. I figured out what's leaking from my car is just plain old water, but it only happens after I've had the heater on (which is why I've just noticed it over the past week or so because it's getting cool in Maryland). Now, I know that it's normal to see a puddle of water under the car after running the A/C due to condensation. But none of my other cars have ever done this from running the heater. It is not anti freeze, it's just water. Is this something that I need to be concerned about?
  • shanglesshangles Member Posts: 1
    This is in response to message #289 by dschan.

    I have similar problem in my '01 Altima...can you please let me know what was fixed in your car to resolve the problem (which part was replaced).
  • slov98slov98 Member Posts: 112
    we had good experience with the the Lake Amoco gas station in chevy chase, intersection of connecticut avenue and manor road, next to the chevy chase supermarket, exit 33 from beltway, I guess you could call them and ask if they know the answer, sorry I don't have their phone #.
  • yltnelis

    If you were using the defrost with the heat your AC may be running. Some cars have the AC come on automatically when the defrost is used to dry the air. I have a 94 Altima, and although my son now drives it, I think that's the way it worked when I was driving it. Maybe someone else knows if that is the way they still work. Good luck.
  • richardm9richardm9 Member Posts: 1
    Most all cars beep if you leave the lights on. My 2000 Altima does not. I bought it used so I don't know if it ever had one. Does yours? Is there any history of problems with this feature?
  • csahrmscsahrms Member Posts: 1
    I have an '03 Altima and twice it has leaked gas from the exhaust or rear suspension mounting under the gas tank after fueling and letting the car sit on a 10 degree incline (engine up) for 12 - 18 hours. Only 1 or 2 gallons were used from the full tank. I have taken it to two dealers in St. Louis and they both told me they cannot find any leaks or duplicate the leak. I was told that the leak could be from the vapor line down to the vent valve if I had topped off when fueling, which I don't do. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  • silver58silver58 Member Posts: 5
    Vacuum leak in the intake. Nissan dealership spotted it right away.
  • cmos1983cmos1983 Member Posts: 1
    I recently found that i had a mouse in my blower of my 1997 altima. My dad removed the glove box and did work under there and got the mouse out. Besides the mouse we found a lot of leaves, sticks, and other things. To my knowledge this the blower should be sealed and I shouldn't be getting this stuff in there. Is there anything I can do to seal it or fix this problem?
  • silver58silver58 Member Posts: 5
    Well, the vacuum leak in the intake was fixed but I am still stalling! Now they tell me it may be the Idle Air Control Motor. Anyone ever have this problem?
  • kittytigrakittytigra Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 nissan altima. The other day I was driving and my boyfriend went to change the radio station and his hand accidnetally bumped the driving gear. The car went from Drive to neutral, it jerked and stopped and the car behind us almost hit us. I always thought that the gears were not supposed to change unless I had my foot on the brake. Can anyone give me any suggestions, I do not want this to happen again. I don't know what would have happened if I was driving faster or the highway.
  • jester13jester13 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Altima seems to be out of breath. It starts fine but sputters and stalls after several minutes of driving. I have encountered another message board that specifically addresses this problem. However none have found a solution. They have had major tune ups, they have changed the PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap etc. and yet they failed to fix it. Could this problem be tied to the exhaust gas recirculation system, or oxygen sensor. Can anyone offer any more suggestions.
  • pck2002pck2002 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2002 Altima with 2.5 DOHC (variable valve timing engine) new and now have over 65,000 miles on the car. It has a very annoying intermittent cold start problem the dealer could not define under warranty, further more the dealer states that all the 2.5 DOHC engines have this problem and the only fix Nissan offers is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine over until it starts. When the engine finally starts there is a lot of black smoke from the exhaust a result of unburnt fuel, the E.P.A. should decertify the car for this. The official explanation from Nissan for this no start in cold weather is that the vehicle floods, and if the customer writes to Nissan he is assured there will be NO written response.
    I have researched this problem and found the flooding is a result and not a cause of the no start condition! The real failure has more to do with variable valve timing.
    What really happens:
    1 During a cold start in cold weather the oil is very thick.
    2 The E.C.M. (engine control module) tests all the components – this happens every start cycle but this problem only occurs intermittently during cold weather cold starts.
    3 The I.V.T. (intake valve timing control solenoid) receives its test pulse but due to the thick cold oil can drive the intake cam to an over advanced condition.
    4 With the intake cam advanced for operation beyond 2,000 RPM and the starter motor cranking the engine below 500 RPM the near static compression is nil compared to the dynamic compression of a high revving motor with an advanced cam.
    5 Cold cranking an engine with low compression while injecting fuel results in a flooded engine.
    6 Holding the gas pedal down while starting from this failed condition causes more fuel to be injected, more air to flow through the engine and the throttle position sensor to tell the E.C.M. that the throttle is wide open. The E.C.M. senses the RPM of the engine is at cranking speed (too low for an advanced cam), The PHASE (camshaft position sensor) signals the E.C.M. that the cam is advanced and the E.C.M. commands the I.V.T. to retard the cam, however since the oil is still cold and thick this takes several cycles to work – resulting in more flooding until the engine finally starts.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,277
    My 03 Altima is sitting at 7400 miles so I downloaded the maintenance schedule here. Besides the oil change and tire rotation, is any of this stuff worth paying for? I mean, $20 to check the in-cabin microfilter? If I wanted to put a few hundred dollars into my car every few months, I would have bought used.
  • ebrown67ebrown67 Member Posts: 3
    All you need is the oil change and tire rotation. The rest you can decide if you need it checked out. Unless you have weird smells or the air or heat doesn't work right. I wouldn't worry about the microfilter until about 12000-15000 miles and then you can change it yourself.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,277
    I know that they need to make money on service, but $20 to check the microfilter and another $20 to check the brakes? If they're rotating the tires anyway, won't it take them 5 minutes to check the brakes? I've got better things to do with my money.
  • ebrown67ebrown67 Member Posts: 3
    I have dealt with different dealers for 30 years or more and they all try to enhance their so called preventive maintenance concept. With all new cars unless you have a problem with something oil changes and tire rotation are about 75% of the required maintenance. I usally get the coolant changed around 30000 miles. Most of the other checks I do myself.
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