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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • pplcreole,
    I hadn't checked the forum until today when I saw your question. No problems with the car since the air mass sensor was fixed. Hope you were able to solve your problem too.

  • I recently bought a 2005 SE, it has already been in the shop 5 times for a whistling noise that occurs with deceleration. This last time, the DTS came out and said that the noise is normal, because it can be reproduced in one other altima. This is unacceptable. Nissan customer service says that DTS has the final say and that I must deal with the problem. Has anyone else experienced this whistling/high pitch noise, what should I do?
  • Can anyone tell me where the diagnostic port is located on the 2005 Nissan Altima?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    A reporter is wondering if anyone has had trouble getting parts for cars and trucks from the 1985-1997 model year. If you have a story to share, please send it to by Friday, November 19, 2004.


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • babbsbabbs Posts: 1
    I would like to know about the side molding for the 2000 Altima.
    Can you purchase the same(original or aftermarket) body side molding which was Color resin plastic to match the car color as you could when the car was new (take it out of the box and stick it on)? OR…………….. Do you have to purchase plain molding and paint it to match the car which will not match the original molding?
    IN other words………………… Can you buy the same molding that was on the car when it was new in 2000 now or do you have to buy and paint it to match?
  • Is there an adjustment that can be made to my 04 SE to that there is power to the 12V power supply ports even after the car is off and the key is removed. It would be nice to be able to charge my cell phone, etc., while the car is parked and I am not in it.

    Seems like the fix in my 97 Grand Cherokee was to move a fuse from one position to another. I have not found any such fix in the owner's manual. Any thoughts or ideas out there?

    Thanks in advance for your responses.
  • Hello Max! Just curious if you had your problems looked at, by the dealer? I seem to have your #5 issue "Like when I take off the car will hesitate then TAKE OFF like a bat out of hell." & #6 issue "The radio reception SUCKS". Not all my radio stations, but about a 1/3 of them. I didn't have that problem with my last vehicle (Ford Expedition). Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • I didn't get any help but I did find the diagnostic port myself. I have posted a couple of issues/questions about my 05 Altima but have never got a response. Wonder why??? There must be a couple of experts out there.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    I regularly read the board, but only post when I know an answer. The only thing I could have come off with on that would be "under the dash somewhere."
  • Howdy,

    I've had the same problem. It turned out that after the engine heats up and gets significantly hot, the distributor ends up getting warm as well. Well, to save you the bore of the engineering thremodynamics behind it, as an element heats up, the resistance increases, thus creating an everso increasingly difficult route for the current to flow into each of the spark plugs.

    You may eliminate some of the problems (like i did) by listening to your mechanic and getting the distributor cap and rotor as well as spark plug wires and plugs replaced. But trust me, that is costly as well, however does not eliminate the problem.

    My altima is a 1995 and yours being a '94 sounds like its a likely client of the distributor as well.

    Buy the Distributor from a junk yard and it'll save you a few hundred dollars.

    Just remember, it's the distributor, NOT THE Distributor Cap; the distributor is located underneath the cap and rotor (it's what turns the mechanical rotor on these older cars).

    Hope this helps.
  • On this 4 cyl engine, oil filler cap was extremely hard to turn/removing same. The cap appears to be "click" type but owner's manual doesn't describe same. Got cap off, reinstalled same, turning same until it does click. Anyone with similar experience?

    Jacking/Lift points: Owner's manual only describes 4 points at panel edge points behind front/ahead of rear wheels. Believe there may be a center lift point at front of vehicle, ahead of a part of the engine/body support member. Also...Is there any center lift point at rear of vehicle? Anyone with knowledge about same? Would really appreciate some help.
  • dballdball Posts: 15
    How about warranty servicing here in central FL? I bought a pre-owned 2002 Altima from Daytona Nissan (something I swore I'd never do) and I have a few recalls to get taken care of and a vibration in the steering wheel at 70 MPH, which they have already told me is because of "the suspension on the 4 cyl model." Sounds like baloney to me... Anybody have this problem? Anyway, love the car but don't trust Daytona to service it. Any suggestions? Thank you!
  • I bought my new 2005 Altima SE a month ago and here are the problems:
    1) when my automatic transmission is in Parking (P) - and when I slightly press gas pedal I hear some kind of a water sound inside my car. Same thing happens when I am in the drive on the road.
    2) the other problem is about EC Mirror w/Compass - my EC Mirror simply does`not work properly. I turn off the EC mirror - and then turn on again (while is dark outside) and it`s working only 5-6 minutes and after that it won`t work properly - mirror is acting like any kind of a regular basic inside mirror without EC option.
    I have Gold 5-year warranty bumper to bumper - and I am sure they will take care of it but I am still interested is this a big problem or what? I mean, it has only 1600 miles and is old only a month.

    I will be very gratefull if somebody explain me those problems in the e-mail message. My adress is

    Thank you very much! Aleksandar
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    No suggestions for which dealer, but they need to balance the tires if you are having a vibration issue. If they can't be balanced, take it to a shop with a Hunter machine to do a road force variation balance (which may find some that are out of spec and need replacement). Also check the alignment and suspension components.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    You're right, the oil cap is a "clicker" like the gas cap. It's not that hard to install, but removal is a pain in the keyster. It has a handle so you can grab it with pliers if necessary. I'm not sure on the lift points.
  • dee4dee4 Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me why my lights keep flashing and the horn continues to beep (about every ten minutes or so) as though I'm setting my alarm.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    Either there's another remote that's getting hit, or one of the computers has gone postal. Take it to the dealer, should be an easy fix if you can repeat it. I saw a parked Impala yesterday morning with the low beams flickering on and off (and no one inside), weird stuff...
  • My 1994 Altima GXE, starts OK without any warning lights coming on. After a few miles, if I happen to go over a pothole (miniscule), the ABS warning light comes ON.
    I showed it to the dealer, and paid $80 for diagnosis. What do I know now? : The Rear Right ABS sensor is DEAD. Dealer wants $180 in parts and $165 in labor. NAPA sells the part for $78, but does not have it in stock (and may not have for some time). My corner mechanic can install the part for cheap.
    My question is what part do I need to order and from where, because I see several sensors for ABS (wheel sensor, speed sensor etc.).
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    The $80 dianosis should have told you exactly which part was dead. Call the service department and ask them. Ideally they will be able to give you both the code they pulled and the part number and description.
  • Thanks for the input. The description on service sheet (printed out for me) does not mention any codes. It states "replace the rear right sensor and if the problem persists than work backwards to the ABS control unit". Control unit replacement may cost upwards of $900 at the dealer (including labor) :(
    I have borrowed the Chilton Manual for Altima from local library. It gives a simple visual procedure for reading codes. It involves "grounding the L terminal of data link connector" located under the dash. Unfortunately the diagram does not show "data link connector", is it called by any other name? Because I can find the "relay connectors" and "actuator connectors" in addition to the "sensor connectors", all shown under the hood !
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    Data link connector is under the dash on the left side on most cars. It might have a cover over it.
  • I have a 1997 Nissan Altima. I purchased the car last year as a student. Recently, the car which was running great suddenly started making a loud "boom" noise and when I took to Amoco Car repair they said that the exhaust pipe was rusting off and I needed to replace it. they quoted something around 600$ for this.

    Is there a better way/ cheaper way to do it?

    Since I dont use the car that much and it already has 125K miles on it (built in 1997) I was wondering if anyone could advice me of an efficient and cheap way to do it? If you guys feel that replacing the exhaust shall be the best way please feel free to say so.

    Thanks a lot!
    Suj, Minneapolis.
  • Has anyone noticed a strange intermittent rattle type noise when you brake or make a turn? this noise is located right below the feet area driver side.

    I took the car in to the dealership but they said nothing is located underneath the driver side. it's almost if a bolt or something is loose underneath that area.

    anyone have similar problem and know what it is?
  • this may be the same problem I am having. does it sound like a rattle noise or at least something you can feel directly under the driver side feet?

    what did you noise sound like? how do I go about getting this fixed if the dealership keeps saying they can't find anything?
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,983
    If it's rusted, it's rusted. There is really no way around replacing it other than to shop around. See if any exhaust specialists in your area are advertising specials. Be aware, that when you see something advertsied especially cheap, it's usually from the catilytic (sp?) converter back. If your pipes are rusted up to the manifold, you won't get off that cheap.
  • Thank you.

    I very much appreciate your input.

  • Have 1997 Nissan Altima. It did not start a couple of times, and once while driving, all the lights came on, the engine slowed down, and the steering froze. Being a woman and driving kids to school, I got concerned, and took it to be checked out. Rather than taking it to the dealer, took it to Goodyear Service.

    First, they said I needed a new distributor cap,coil, ignition coil, spark plugs, etc. Cost was $900. Now after installing all these, they tell me that the engine valves are gone, and they could not find that out earlier since there was no spark.

    Their explanation is that the distributor was burnt, filled with oil, and that got the valves hot, and burnt two out, while the other two have low compression. Bottom line, they are now telling me that I need a new engine, and getting a new head will end up blowing the old engine.

    Is this baloney? Am I being taken for a ride? Am I better off getting a new car? This one has $137K miles on it, and has run great till now. Estimates for a rebuilt engine is $2500 - $3500.

  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 5,716
    Time to take it somewhere for a second opinion... I find it hard to believe the engine is worn out after 137,000 miles, as long as it got serviced every 7500 or so...
  • I have a Nissan Altima 1998 with about 58000 miles.

    I had an oil change done at a dealership in March 2004 and the car was running fine. However from June 28th through August 28th, I did not drive the car. When I started the car then, the oil light was on. The engine was also making a knocking noise. I took the car to a different dealership than the one that I got the oil change done earlier. They did a oil change, told me that I had very less oil and the person who did the previous oil change did not crush a oil plug when doing the oil change which led to a oil leak. Once I started driving the car after the oil change, I noticed the car had no power and I needed to accelerate a lot. I took the car back to the second dealer and they did diagnostic tests on the car and told me that the engine had internal damage (because of the oil leak) and had low compression and that the engine would need to be replaced ($ 2450). I took the car to the dealer that did the oil change in March and looked at the car and told me that the engine is fine but I have a timing problem. They said that they made a temporary fix by realigning the distributor but would need to remove the timing cover to figure what really was wrong. The cost of removing the timing cover would be $ 650 and then they could figure out what the problem is.

    I guess I do not know which dealer to trust since both are giving conflicting opinions about the problem. I called Nissan Consumer Affairs and they could not help me much.

    I would appreciate it if anyone could provide me with some input on this.
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    Both of you need to find a reputable private mechanic. Many dealers are nortorius for rip-offs. Many years ago I took a car to the dealer for a poor running problem. They said 3 different parts were bad per the computer diagnostic and would cost about $200.00 each. Said that may still not fix the problem. I said no and took the car to a private mechanic I had used a few times before. In 30 minutes and no computer, he had the problem fixed. $85.00, and it wasn't any of the parts the dealer wanted to replace. He is now my permanent mechanic. You'll need to talk to friends and co-workers to get a good recommendation for a mechanic. Also, if your area has an AM Radio auto talk show, you might get direction through them. I have a 94 Altima, 129,000 miles and only 3 very minor repairs. No leaks of any kind and no loss of oil between changes. $3500 for a new engine may be worth it on the Altima, but I would not have a dealer do it. They're very reliable cars and if you bought a used car for even 5,000 it may have many other repair problems. If money is not a big issue and you want continued reliability, you may want to buy a new car or a used one under 40K miles.

    Best of Luck
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