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Right now, no leaks and except the power window switch, the car is working great. If we decide to keep the car, I will get the switch replaced and the black passenger side mirror painted in Titanium Frost to match the car. Hate to spend any more $ on the car if the wife wants something newer.
Will know more after the Ft. Lauderdale Auto Show next month.
The Sandman :-)
(1) replaced oil pressure switch.
part-$13
labor-$30
(2) replace valve cover gasket
part-$7.13
labor-$24
(3) replace front crank seal
part-$6.30
labor-$120
(4) replace lower oil pan gasket sealer
parts-$8.98 (oil pan sealer)
$3.67 (spark plug tube seal)
$7.00 (4 quarts oil)
labor-$84.
After all this was done...NO MORE LEAKS! We are thrilled, but the power window is bumming us out!
Hopefully, this will help with your problem.
The Sandman :-)
Is there a code that I can reset to make the remotes work again, and perhaps incidentally keep the doors from relocking?
I appreciate any help.
One problem, several symptoms. The only way to determine the cause is by retrieving the stored diagnostic trouble codes, but from the description I'd suspect the mass airflow sensor or a leak in the intake ducting.
Having more time to drive it this morning to the dealership, I figured out that if I drive it with the overdrive off, it runs a whole lot better, but I still have the same problems. It's in the shop now and I have a loaner, so I guess I'll just wait and see what it was.
I guess saying "a junk car that has all these problems with it" was a little harsh, it's just that this is my first time buying a car from a dealer, I'm a single mother and this was SCARY. To think I paid $11,000 for a car and it's broke, is something I would rather not have going on. Thank GOD it's still under warranty.
Thanks for your help!
Just under two years and I'm still happy with mine. I very much like the people at Koeppel Nissan in Jackson Heights, Queens. I previously had a Civic from Paragon Honda up the road from them, and was pretty underwhelmed when I went in there as a returning customer with an expiring lease.
Everybody raves about Honda dealers but I found Paragon to be arrogant. I think that dealer experience can really vary from site to site so I don't know if you can really get good info on that from an internation message board.
please some one explain it to me.
After a month straight of fiddling with it I finally have a rattle free car. Thank goodness, as coming from my '02SE Rattle-trap, this car is like driving a tomb! Love it. Yes, all the reviews are correct in saying there is too much NVH, and it is harsh over bumps, but like one other postee.. if you're coming from a sports sedan, the ride feels plush.
One other note, with only 850 miles on my odometer, you really still can't feel the 175HP yet. My buddy had the same car in a rental version with 18,000 miles, and for a 4 banger it flew! Even roasted the front tires a bit when stomped on.
Is replacing the bulb a weekend mechanic job.
Or are special tools needed making it job for my dealer
in the user manual. just stink your hands behind the light bulb sockets and begin turning.
if you are not comfortable doing it yourself, buy your bulbs from Pepboys they will install it for free.
Ken
warranty. I thought this part was covered for 80,000 miles.
> I had this part checked 5/12/2004. I took it to them again on
1/5/2005.
Now its bad.
>
> This is the recall check they had to perform.
>
> Repair Order 410936 - 5/12/2004 ENGINE EXHAUST PIPE HANGER PIN AND
PRECATALYST
1. crank position sensor
2. muffler clip
3. drivers side seatbelt that squeaked
4. Manual gearshift boot
5. one wheel/rim (with maybe three more to come)
6. all four tires
That's a long list for a car I've had three months that had 22000K on it when I bought it.
1. Car stalled or shut off on cold starts starting in around November 2004 (this happens when the temperature drops below 40 degrees or so). Also, rusty noise (noise goes away after about 10 minutes) comes from the drive belt/alternator area shortly after being bought in 2002.
2. In December 2004, battery/electrical system went dead after a long drive. Battery boosted to start the engine.
3. One month after the battery dies again.
4. New battery bought, however, cold start stalling problem/shut-off continued.
5. New battery completely dead after one week. Could not be jump-started.
6. New alternator put in. Cold start stalling/shut-off and rusty noise from the belt/alternator area continued.
7. I am told the stalling problem my be the Idle Air Control Valve.
I will have to take it in to the dealer to have it checked out. Before I do, however, has anyone experienced any of these problems with your newer brand Altima (2002 onwards)? If yes, how were the problems corrected. Please reply ASAP.
"Automatic Climate Control"
Set it at 80 degree F when your cold, or 68 degree F when you are hot. Altima's available Automatic Climate Control will maintain the temperature you select by adjusting fan speed and redirecting the vents to the appropriate location inside the vehicle.
The 2.5S shows just Air Conditioning. Manual as far as I know.
No mention of coming on only when the temperature reaches 36 to 37 deg.F
As for turning it off, no idea, don't own one, but looking at the moment.
I'm starting to have the same problem. It's happened when the car was parked and just this morning, while I was driving. Have you been able to isolate problem?
Thanks
I have a 2002 Porsche Boxter...I had the brake pads changed about 5 months ago...since then I've had this weird high-pitched screaming sound coming from the right front tire...it starts at about 35-40 mph, and braking has no effect, then as the car decelerates, around 25 mph the sound winds down and stops...the car has had the brake system on that tire relubed, clips and tabs checked, and then the pads changed completely, then the rotor replaced, still the sound persists...I'm going crazy...and what does the dealership say, replace the pads, rotor and brake sensor, $650, please, which my hole-in-the-wall mechanic, whom I trust, says there's no need to change the brake sensor, the calipers are fine and the brake line is releasing fluid correctly...
nightmare...
js
Keep in mind that this problem occurs especially if I make a full stop on the street and try to go again, I'll have to shift to parking and move to D for the car to move, very frustrating, especially when tranny problems are perceived gradual, on certain spot of the transmission, it runs perfectly on all gears.
I know this will be expensive to fix, should I take it to dealer or have a good private dealer to fix it?
I took the car to the dealer and the mechanic said that it was the gear locks (?) engaging so that when I reached a very slow speed (under 8 mph), I would then be able to shift to park or reverse. He said that he (and his co-workers) had never heard the noise before, but this was normal. Okay, if they've never encountered this before, how can they be sure it is normal? Why would a car manufacturer put out a vechicle that makes a descernible noise every time the car stops? Any insights would be appreciated!
I have noticed that the 2.5 has a slight rough idle. One that I drove was a salesman car with only 7,500 miles on it. When idling in drive the idle was rough enough that you can feel the vibration on the floor and into the seats. I found this to be annoying and not exceptable to me.
Also tried new ones about 3 of them with zero mileage and found the rough idle in drive. The new ones were not as apparent, no vibration to the floor or seats but still slightly rough. Is this common for the 4 cylinder? The 6 cylinders is smooth as silk, don't even notice the engine is running. I have a 4 banger Cavalier with 50,000 miles on it and this so called crappy GM product, idles in drive like the 6 cylinder Altima.
So will the rough idle get worse as the car ages?
Anybody notice the same with their car?
Have tried other brands with 4 cylinders and no rough idle or vibration.
Thanks