Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

jrv · March 2005

I need some advise, 2001 Altima, 4 cylinder, standard shift, ~~ 50 K miles.
I have a problem with the clutch pedal staying depressed when I lift my foot. When this occurs I have to lift the pedal with my toe then its OK for a while. It seems to occur on a random basis.
I can generally tell when its going to stick as there is a little less resistance when I put my foot down on the clutch pedal and the gear change is not as smooth.
There is a Service Bulletin which recommends replacing the clutch pedal assembly  this was the dealers recommendation as well. I could understand where replacing the pedal assembly would help if there were an interference with the pedal pivot or clevis under the dash. However, in this case the rougher shifting and pedal resistance suggests to me that something else is going on.
Any comments or suggestions would be most welcome. I can be reached directly at, jvaldes**whoi.edu.

Thanks,
Jim

Karen_S · March 2005

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doyin · March 2005

Ive had a 97 altima for a month now and i seem to be having some problems with the transmission.When it switches from gear one to two, there's a jerk and this only occurs during this transition.Transition to other gears is smooth but gear change to two really bugs me.Could it be im accelerating too much?I doubt it.Any ideas.

anben · March 2005

hi everybody,

I have a nissan altima 93 which stops after running sometimes. when i try to re start, it starts almost for finally dying out, like something is missing. The garage changed the alternator, battery...starter, fuel pump, distributor, fuses have been checked and are ok! but still the problem. they told me that is an electrical problem. when it starts lights of the brake and battery on the board stands on for a while...other told me that problem could come from injector since the car trembles recently after being stopped for an hour...when the car starts after died there is also an acute noise like an electric resistance perceptible...

what most said that probably an electric wire is badly connected or touches the mass...but which one?

Is anyone face these problems before? any help is highly appreciated...

thanks in advance,
anben

salsstar · March 2005

What's all this I have heard about the replacements of the entire 2.5L engine on some models?

tdiemer · March 2005

My fiance has a 95 altima and the A/C will only blow on high. When you turn it to any of the other speeds, the RPMs change, which leads me to believe the compressor turns on and that the blower may be bad, but I am not sure if anybody has any experiaence with this problem, please let me know how I can test or fix the problem. Thank-you

sandman46 · March 2005

Just as my mechanic had thought, the drivers front power window switch was bad. Put a new one in on wednesday, the window works just like new. The wife even commented today that it seems to go up and down a bit smoother sounding to.
All is well in "Alty Land" and hopefully the car will settle down now. I looked back at all my receipts for the last 14 months minus oil changes and 2 tires, and the old girl has cost us some bucks. Granted, all the problems started about the 62k mark. But I'm a bit surprised about the lack of quality with this car. Our Toyotas were much better in this regard.
We're hoping to get another year out of the car and purchase a '06 model, but Nissan is definitely off our short list.

The Sandman :-(

shued · March 2005

I have 1997 Altima with 68000 miles. It fails california SMOG check with high No. The data of NO is following:
15 mph: measured 607 (maximum 443) AVE 57.
25 mph: measured 561 (Mamimum 730) AVE 50.
CO2, CO and HC data is very clean and perfect. $90 dollar diagnosis say "EGR valve not open completely. Vacuum drops to zero in high REC. replace EGR solenoid assembly". because I doubt the diagnosis, I have not let the garage to replace the parts yet. The listed parts to be replaced are:
1): EGR solenoid $140.
2): BackPressure Transducer Value (BPT) $70.
3): Vacumm hose $12. Plus labor $90.
During talking, the garage said it can try to replace
EGR solenoid first. If the problem still there, then replace BPT. Also I have checked SEL bulb, it is fine since when I turn the key to ON position, I have seen SEL light.
Since any of BPT or EGR solenoid have problem, the SEL light should turn on, but now it does not, according to Hynes Manual, such as code 105. I doubt ECM or some control signal has problem, or some loose connection. Any advices?
or someone have similar experiment? I try to send to Nissan Dealer to diagnosis the problem again.

alcan · March 2005

NOx is usually caused by high combustion chamber temperature. High chamber temp is usually caused by an EGR system malfunction. Sounds like your EGR valve isn't fully opening, probably due to a transducer or solenoid problem.

altimaowner1 · March 2005

I have the same clicking problem - mine started at about 5,000 miles. I took it to one dealer and they told me nothing was wrong (and I got the same story you did)and charged me over $250. I took it to another dealer and they ordered a rubber stopper that was advised in a service bullentin for the problem (so Nissan knows there is a problem). The clicking noise happens (1) when you stop (2) just before you stop or (3) when you apply the brakes. All it did was decrease the noise, but I still hear it. When I asked them about it, they told me that it just made the noise, nothing is wrong. I then called Nissan's 800 number and they told me nothing is wrong. I explained to them that if it had made the noise when I test drove the car when it was new, I would have never purchased the car. I have now taken it back to the dealer where I purchased it and they are going to try to help me. I guess if they say the noise stays, my only other optiona are to go to the media (I'm sure that if a televison station does a story on this, they might think twice about fixing it or coming clean and saying they knew the noise was going to happen but did not tell their customers prior to cars being purchased) or my attorney...because, if it does not get fixed, then I am stuck with a brand new car (I know have 7,300 miles on it) that would be very difficult to re-sell. Anyone else having the problem.

shued · March 2005

Hi, Alcan:
Your comments are very similar to the result of diagnosis. But what I was confused is Why the SEL is NOT on? If BPT (the transducer) or EGR solenoid is wrong, the SEL should be ON. Does Nissan design it differently at 1997 not to turn SEL on? (since at 1997, it will not check NOx at California).

doyin · March 2005

U will need to change your a/c resistant.Had the same problem and that solved it.

brenel77 · March 2005

My 94 MT Altima has been an excellent car until recently. Three months ago I started experiencing rough idle and extended crank time. Within a week it stalled at a stop and would not start. The dealership replaced the PCV and distributor, and it ran perfectly for a while. The rough idle started again and I took it back to the dealership. This time they adjusted the idle from 450 to 700 and told me that I need to replace the fuel pump and filter, (at a cost of $500).
I have 189K miles on this car and would rather repair it than purchase a new car. Does this sound legitimate or am I being taken. I would welcome any comments or suggestions.

canary · March 2005

The acceleration fluctuates within 2 mph when I'm in the 40-60 mph speeds. You can't see it on the odometer, but I can feel it. It's bizarre. I don't have any idea of what to ask the dealership to check. It's also sporadic, so it's a hard thing to replicate to make a diagnosis on. And, the car is loud. When I first had it, the first two days it sounded like a kitten, then day three...it's loud. What gives?

babbey · March 2005

My girlfriend has an '02 Nissan Altima 2.5S. The car has under 35K on it, but she is not the original owner. She had a burned out headlamp (driver's side)replaced less than 3 months ago by a mechanic. Now, the same bulb is burned out again. What variables would be causing this to happen so often? Bad bulb? An electrical problem? I would like to know if anyone else has had the same problem, with these cars and if so- how was it corrected? Thanks, -Burned Out.

sjd · March 2005

I have a 94 Nissan Altima. I also face the same problem. I have a work around that works. There is no problem alternator or engine. Its just that gear is not in park correctly. When i face this problem, all i do is apply brakes and try to move the gear from park lightly out and put it back in park gently and its does the trick.
I hope this helps
Sjd

lowwater · April 2005

FYI, Just purchased a 2001 and was told that the engine light may come on if the gas cap is not twisted on tight. There's a sensor that mesures the pressure in the fuel tank. If the cap is tightened it then takes a few days for the sensor to measure normal and tell the light to go off. So always be sure the cap is on real tight.

ultimatealtima · April 2005

I have a 2005 Altima with 16000, I bought it in May with 500 miles. Two days ago it died on me when I come to a stop in a parking lot. It died again when I backed out. I drove it home and when I got there I noticed a rough idle, sort of like a continuous hiccup. I called in to my dealer and drove the car in, while on my way the check engine light came on, and the car was driving really rough, bad case of the hick ups. We made it to the dealer (though I was sure we wouldn't). When I dropped it off they didn't seem to know what was wrong. The next morning I get a call that some butterfly flap was stuck open and ruined the cylinder. My engine has to be replaced. Yes it is under warranty, BUT MY ENGINE HAS TO BE REPLACED!!!! This is why I bought a new car so it would be reliable. When I got to the dealer to pick up a loaner (that I had to fight to get). I asked, what the heck is going on? And he said they had replaced 3 engines this month!!! on the 2005. So if you have 2005 I would look into the engine and be sure all is well.

ultimatealtima · April 2005

See my note (on this site 4/1 service engine light) re: engine replaced on 2005 Altima with 16000 miles. Three others at the same dealer had to have theris replaced. Starts with a rough idle. SOmething about butterfly flaps not closing.

brickers · April 2005

i feel your pain, after buying a new car that's the last thing i would think that needs to be replaced. i have 2005 3.5SL altima my self with almost 7000 miles. if you don't mind my asking, what type of engine is it and what's the manufacture date on that vehicle? Also did this problem happen gradually or it just died on you suddenly?

I hope this doesn't happen to mine, you're lucky its yours is still under warranty. goodluck buddy.

maxamillion1 · April 2005

but as an 05 Altima owner, I feel that Nissan still has a long way to go quality wise...

If I could do it again, I'd be driving an 3.5 instead of the 2.5..

The 2.5 has WAY WAY more problems than the 3.5

doyin · April 2005

Tried to read the trouble codes on my auto trans 97 altima through the MIL and i got 1 long flash,2 short flashes;3 long flashes,4 short flashes;4 long flashes,1 short flash;8 long flashes,2 short flashes. Anybody have any ideas as to what these mean.Im in Nigeria with no access to a scan tool and it would be expensive to see a dealer.Thanks in anticipation. :mad:

alcan · April 2005

This might help:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/

ben72 · April 2005

I'm having trouble with my overdrive. Whenever I use it on the highway I can see and feel (in the pedal) that my RPMs are jumpy. It seems to drop/jump about 300-400 RPM. It only seems to happen (or maybe its just more noticeable) at speeds over 60. I hoping its not the transmission because the fluid smells/looks ok. I think it might be some kind of sensor/electrical problem. Anyone out there with any experience with this?

jemtec · April 2005

babbey,
Have the Battery and Alternator Checked.
I dont know exactly how the lighting wiring is designed, but usually, if the circuit is wired first to the Drivers side head lamp, and then has a "surge" of voltage, it will always take the biggest hit over the other light.
I have an 88 Isuzu Impulse that blew out 2 sets of lights due to a bad voltage regulator in the alternator, and a weak older battery.
I kinda noticed funny voltage drops, and then gains when Id turn on certain high amp accessories (such as AC and Rear Defroster) and the voltage would drop from 14.5, down to around 12.5 and then jump back and then drop again. Was subtle sometimes, and violent others. (I have a good volt meter on the dash in the car however).
Its worth a check, and any auto parts store can run electrical tests for you.
I suggest Napa because they typically use decent Battery testers with carbon piles that actually simulate cranking effort.
Another idea is it could even be a loose belt making the alternator fluctuate, but I kinda doubt thats the issue here. (might check just because though).
Hope that helps give you some place to start.

crjowens · April 2005

Just wondering because I have the exact same problem with my Altima, but how difficult is it to install the new switch? Is it something that you could give me some pointers on? I'm thinking of doing it myself. Thanks for any help you can give!

kitejumperfl · April 2005

Hi, I own 2005 Altima SE. Couple of month ago I started to experience strange thing. When the engine is cold, and I start to drive, at about 40mph the gears do not shift from 3rd to 4 gear. I thought that it was because of winter and low temps, but it did not stop. It takes about 5-10 min for them to start shifting without any problems. It seems to me that the problem is with transmission. Does anyone have simmilar problems? This car has 10,000 miles.

kitejumperfl · April 2005

I have exactly the same problem, but did not have a time to go to the dealer. I thought it was normal.

sandman46 · April 2005

Had my mechanic install the switch. Told me it was pretty simple. I'm mechanically challenged so I let him do it for me.

The Sandman

kitejumperfl · April 2005

How much is it to fix it?

sandman46 · April 2005

Cost was $110. I trust my mechanic and since I can barely screw in a light bulb, lol, it was worth it to me. Also, when the wife is happy, and it's her car, I'm happy!

The Sandman

ricam78 · April 2005

Well it is nice to see that Nissan isnt doing much to fix any butterfly screw problems. My 2002 with 84000 miles had the exact same thing happen 2 weeks ago and I am trying all I can to get Nissan to realize this is a manufacturer defect. You can read my story and see pictures of what happened and also see HOW COMMON THE PROBLEM IS by going here:

Butterfly Screws

If anyone else has had the problem and knows how common it is please speak up as Nissan will not recognize a problem without a TON of complaints about it. I am just wondering how long they will let this problem go on without fixing it. Imagine if a family had the screws fall into their engine and as they are turning and accelerating to cross some oncoming traffic their car stutters and stalls and they end up getting hit. OOPS....just because Nissan didnt spend $1 to put some loctite on the screws that are vibrating loose people must suffer. It just amazes me. RECALL THE BUTTERFLY SCREWS. :mad:

Rich

gsemike · April 2005

This is scaring the heck out of me. How much would a local shop get to locite in these screws before it happens?

Sorry about your troubles.

smiley10 · April 2005

I have 9200 miles on my 3.5 SE altima and i noticed that the black paint on the muffler is peeling. Is this something that would be covered under the warranty and what causes it to peel.

thanks

mawalker · April 2005

I took my 01 altima in to the dealership which was offering a free 100 point check. They are telling me I need to replace the power steering and transmission drive belt in order to flush fluids for about $500 total. It seems a little hokery with only 56k miles on it. Any thoughts? Thanks!

privateer56 · April 2005

Hello all,

I have had a 93 with the heads-up-display for a year now (101K miles) and have been pretty happy with it. About 3 months ago the speedo and HUD stopped working intermittantly. When they are off the car runs fine with good pickup and smooth acceleration. When they come back on they both read 35 mph at idle and the transmission seems to think it should be in 2nd gear when I start to drive. On a hill it is the kiss of death and really annoys the other drivers behind me (there are a lot of hills by me). I skimmed through the posts and did not see anything that helped.
Any suggestions??

pbrown · April 2005

No clue about the HUD or the speedo but whenever I hear that there's problems going up hills, I instantly think "Fuel Filter!"

It's simple enough to replace except for removing the hose, which can easily be damaged during the process. Have a dish handy, for the old fuel filter will contain, and spill, a quantity of gasoline. Maybe some spare hose just in case there's not enough length to keep the same one after trimming the damaged portion with a razor blade.

msahmed · April 2005

I have a 95 Nissan Altima that has leaking rear struts, and the struts need to be replaced.

I would appreciate feedback from any one who has attempted to do this on his/her own.

perky2 · April 2005

i also have that problem with my nissan sunny 2001. but i met in an accident three months ago. i don't if thats the reason why. how can i know whats wrong?

privateer56 · April 2005

Thanks, I did try to eliminate the regular problems first. I had all the filters (and normal periodic stuff) done in November. this problem (hills) only happens when the speedo is reading 35mph at a standstill.

gino45 · April 2005

$500 for a power steering & transmission flush is kind of steep if you ask me. I have a 98 Altima SE and have had the tranny flushed for $150 (Cdn) and the power steering for $90(Cdn). I didn't have to change the belts at the time. Later on I had the power steering belt changed since it was squealing. That cost me $75 -labor and belt included. The work was done at my nissan dealer who has a charge rate of $100/hr. You don't need a power steering flush unless your fluid is dirty. I flushed my at 100,000miles and I doubt your PS would require changing at 59K, unless you got dirt in the reservoir. I would get a second opinion if I were you.

chriskenji · April 2005

hello, did you ever get the non flashing light issue resolved. I have a 02 altima and I am experiencing the same problem, but in my case, it flashes sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.
I called the dealer, service department, and they can't even find a part number for the led light, they told me that it does not exist.

16521 · April 2005

I own a 2005 3.5SE. I've noticed that when the parking brake is fully engaged a squeaking noise can be heard coming from underneath the car when you sit down. When the brake is only partially engaged there is no noise. Anyone else have this problem?
Could it be a sign that there may be a problem with the parking brake?

aaltima01 · April 2005

i also have a 2001 altima. it has had service engine light on for about a month. three different mechanics are telling me three different things. intake manifold gasket....800.00 cam position sensor...60.00 or injector o-ring. Computer code comes up misfiring in #4 cylinder. Don't no who to believe. It's making me sick to my stomach Anybody have any suggestions or experiences

ritasac · April 2005

Just came back from 90 k service and mechanic pointed small leakages of coolant on top of radiator. he told me radiator are made of iron and plastic and could not be welded. Replace radiator. thats expensive.
Now I see that top part of radiator has grooves and holes which is how the radiator is designed. Since leak is small, will applying epoxy resin at the grooves and holes work/
Can I cover all the grooves?

ral160 · April 2005

I bought a 99 nissan altima a while back and had the engine blow, this was a secondary car so I was in no need to fix it.
I just got, yesterday, a replacement motor for this vehicle it cam from a 99 nissan with 100,000 miles on it. I dropped the motor in the vehicle and I am all ready to go except I cannot find my notes on the vacuum lines. I haven't a clue as to the layout of such lines. I have the Haynes manual but it doesn't go into detail and I cannot get enough clear pictures out of it to see where the lines should go.
Does anyone have either a detailed schematic of how the lines run or some pictures of a 99 nissan's engine showing some of the lines?
This is my last resort before I bite the bullet and go to a mechanic..
Any help is greatly appreciated
-Rob

ral160@gmail.com

jvercher · April 2005

Car became hard to start (15seconds starter engagement), followed by constant on check engine light. Dealer service writer says the diagnonis is not covered by warranty since the problem is not emission related. When asked how he knew that before running the test, he said "if the problem was emissions related, the check engine light would be flashing rather than steady on". Can this possibly be right? I have a friend that was a service writer for a Ford dealership and he never heard this tale.

alcan · April 2005

A solid check engine light means the engine control computer has detected a fault in one of it's monitored circuits. A flashing check engine light means the computer has detected a fault which, if not corrected, will probably damage the catalytic converter. AutoZone will retrieve stored trouble codes gratis.

subhuman · April 2005

Does anyone know how I can just get the rear driver side window up on a 93 altima, while i try and find out what's wrong with it? I think the switch is good because the relay clicks everytime i use the switch. i think the motor is bad. i don't have a multimeter so i can't get all technical on it. i just need to know how to get the window up in the mean time.

subhuman :confuse:

sandman46 · April 2005

Sorry bud, ours was the drivers front window and it was the switch. We were lucky enuf to get it back in the up position and just left it there until my mechanic fixed it 2 days later.
If you have a trusted mechanic like I do, call and drop by and see what he can rig up until he can fix it properly.
That's the best I can tell ya for now. If my son goes 2 the Harvard summer program as planned, the Alty will probaly be gone before labor day. If he stays home and works before he returns to his senior year at prep school, we'll keep it so he can use it for a work car and our time table for the wife's new ride will be pushed up to buying around Memorial Day.
Keep me posted on the window situation.

The Sandman

Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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