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is 17500 OTD price?
Can you tell me the name of the dealer ?
thanks !!
Thank you.
I am planning to buy a 2.5S 2013 Altima.
I got a final price of $21,700 + tax and fees.
This is without any extra additions.
Let me know if I have a chance to get even less.
Just thought of sharing (fishy experience) with other fellow readers here.
Price breakdown was $25,616.09 for car+destination combined, $389 processing fee and $895 for tax, tags, title (Virginia sales tax is 3%).
Range of prices was about $28,600 OTD from three dealers (including Carmax and Fitzmall -- fixed price dealers), then 3 DC-area dealers came in at about $27,900 OTD. One dealer, across the Bay Bridge in MD had the low bid for most of the week, at $27,100 OTD, but I didn't completely trust them due to some apparent attempts to sneak in fees and hike up the OTD price when I asked them to provide price breakouts, although I suppose they could have been making honest mistakes, because they corrected them after I pointed them out.
I pushed with the 3 local dealers who had bid around $27,900 OTD, asking if they could beat the low price, two said no but one came back with $26,900 if we came in today. That dealership's internet salesman had been very straightforward with me throughout the whole process and the dealership had generally good reviews online, so we headed over (we had also test-driven the car there last weekend, and again had a low-pressure, pleasant experience). The buying process today was hassle-free, no pressure, and straightforward. Couldn't be happier with the dealership or the car!
Unfortunately, I do have to say that my experience with internet sales at Koons and Passport Nissan was absolutely terrible -- they are the types of dealers who give car salesmen a bad name. Their emails were non-responsive to my request for a price quote, high-pressure, sent constant emails about how it was impossible to buy a car over the internet and I had to come in to get a price, and Passport called repeatedly even though I had specifically asked them not to. Why have an internet sales department if you're not going to provide real quotes by email?
After the test drive, the salesman came out with a initial price of $22,500 + TTL. I told him my target price and showed him with an ebay buy it now listing (in TN) I had printed out for the same car for $19,900 (including dealer/doc fees before TTL) in hopes they would beat it. He goes and gets his manager who tells me the best they can do is $21,500 + $799 dealer fee +TTL. After a few back and forths he won't budge on the price and I leave empty handed.
Are prices in FL different? Does anyone know of any South FL dealers? Whats's a realistic target price for this car?
Do you guys recommend adding it after-market? Or coming in strong, telling the dealership that I only want to pay for the Sport package, and am not going to pay for the Premium package. I know 2013 inventory is running low, so not sure how much leveraging power I have. Any advice would be appreciated.
You can buy it from the dealer and have them install it or you can buy an OEM or aftermarket one on eBay and have a local body shop install it (find a shop with good online reviews)
"I'm looking to buy a new 2012 Altima 2.5S with conv pkg and I was wondering what your lowest price is with the destination fee included" (make sure the price is with the dest. fee so you can compare the price between dealers, some dealers like to give you a low price and then when you go there to pay for it they add the dest. fee separately to the price)
You can also ask them how much their dealer fee is while you're at it
Depending on how far you're willing to drive to buy it, I recommend contacting 5-12 dealers -- once you get the lowest price, you can email the other dealers saying "the lowest price I got is $$$, are you guys able to beat this price?"
Much easier to deal with their online dept's than dealing with them in person
Second option is 3.5SR w/ Premium, Sport, and Technology packages with MSRP of $32,630, and first dealer quote of $27,500.
Obviously, it'd be nice to have the navigation, but not really necessary. Which option do you guys recommend? Can I get them down lower?
I don't need an Altima that bad to pay $1000k over list price nor would I ever pay that or list price even for a car.
Just wanted your input.
Convience PKG plus Mats, Splash Guards, Trunk divider and Emergency kit
MSRP (W/Destination) 25,310
Pricing before rebates 23,000
Minus $2,500 in rebates 20,500 + TTL * 2,000 customer cash & 500 NMAC finance
Overall I think I did pretty well. The internet manager quoted me $20,500 over email on one with the 20th anniv pkg but they had to get it from another dealer and they had the one with convience pkg on the lot (only one left). Even though the MSRP on the one on the lot was about $400 more than the 20th anniversary one I told them if they would honor the $20,500 on this one on the lot I would buy it and if not just get me the one from the other lot and they let me have the one on the lot for $20,500.
Anyways, I think $20,500 is the target to shoot for on any 2012's left with either convience pkg or the 20th anniversary. This was in Wenatchee, WA for anyone interested.
Is this a good deal? whether it still has any room to bargain? Any suggestions will be appreciated.
On the 2013 3.5 SL without tech, in Maryland Carmax has those at 400 over invoice, including their processing fee. You may not be willing to travel that far, but you could try to use that to bargain with the NJ dealers.
I am in no hurry to buy the car so would wait for having something on hand that gives me fair price to pay.
What color did you get with that? I am sorry but it feels a bit expensive.
I am offered 18800 (after rebates 2k+500 NMAC) for the 20th anniv package here in bay area (20600 OTD). Color choices are Brilliant silver/Tuscan sun/Saharan Stone/Super black and navy blue.
I really wanted the dark slate or ocean grey though.
I was offered a 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5S for $20500 (including dest/dealer fees) + taxes/fees = $22661 in Bay Area. This was the base model but it had bluetooth/keyless entry and push start ignition which i was after. No alloy wheels/spoilers.
I was actually in the market for the 2012 2.5s with anniv package. I got $18800 for this from couple of places before any haggling.
I am still looking though and considering waiting till labor day to see if I can do any better. Any opinions?
Thanks.
That's hardball.
Those two Nissan dealers were price gouging and hosing me as I found two other Nissan dealers in central NJ willing to sell me a loaded 3.5SL for 29,365 which was roughly 3k off msrp, but then it fell through when they told me it had to be a car from their lot or one they could find already out. They weren't going to give me that deal if they had to order it.
Suffice it to say, when I'm paying that kind of money on a car and buying it, you damn well better believe I'm getting the color combo, packages, and accessories I want or no deal.
I'm sick with Nissan's games so when my Maxima lease is up next month, I'm going to another automaker, probably Lexus, Acura, Audi, or BMW.
Its a shame Nissan and customer loyalty means absolutely nothing, but thats the way it is in the greedy sales world.
zip91498
$20200 + taxes/fees = $22258 OTD.
I took NMAC finance for 4.99% but will pay in full after 90 days. Just took financing to get the price down.
Cowles never replied to my request for a price quote even though I contacted them twice---either they don't respond to requests for internet quotes or their "contact a dealer" link on their website is not working properly.
My experience with Passport and Koons was not positive---contacting them via email was a frustrating waste of my time--someone else may have better luck with them--I gave both of those dealers feedback to that effect.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
The object of people posting the deals they got AND the dealers name is so that others won't have to work quite as hard at negotiating and where to specifically go for a good deal.
I'll post my deal here but let's just say that previous buyers are spot on with $6500-$7000 off MSRP. Forget the dealer sticker. Look at the actual MSRP then subtract $7000. That's the offer.
Then, you must "negotiate" the dealer fee with the various dealers. I paid my dealer fee but Got a Spoiler and Aluminum Kick Plates (dealer has to install still) for just $200 (installed).
Overall, the 2013 is a killer car and worth every penny of $2500-$3000 over a 2012 version. But, I chose to save that 3,000 and just get a 2012 SL. Once I have the car in my hands I'll post more about my EXACT numbers.
What I can warn you about are the LIES that dealers tell about Invoice. Most will only give you $5K off a 2012 Altima including the rebates; but, the high volume dealers will give you $7K off.
Hence, you must find a HIGH VOLUME DEALER and check the inventory.
I think once Nissan puts a $1,000 customer cash incentive on the 2013s later this year the Altimas will fly off the lots. There is NO BETTER CAR in this segment than the 2013 Altima.
I've driven the Kia Optima (EX, SX), Toyota Camry, Hond Accord, etc. and while they nice the smooth V-6 of the Altima combined with better seats, better visibility, etc. makes the Altima the one to beat.
I like my 2012 Altima SL but the 2013 Altima is a vastly improved car which is the best in its category.
One tried the bait and switch game with me ( "you wanted a loaded SL. oh, I thought you wanted a BASE Altima") while 2 others would only give $6K off MSRP.
One flat out said "5500 is the Max off MSRP with all the rebates" then called me back a day later to increase the offer to $6,000 off.
2 dealers really wanted my business and I think that a true cold-hearted SOB could have bled them dry feeding off each other. In the end I got the car I wanted at a cool $7K off MSRP for a SL with Audio package, Convenience package, Convenience plus package and a few minor dealer items.
This process took me at least 10-12 hours of my time (my wife says 20 hours was more like it) so be prepared for a long haul to get that $7K off MSRP instead of $5500. Pethaps, you can try the FAX method but then you must still call them back and haggle over the phone for an hour. Then, call the other dealer and haggle some more. If you aren't careful both dealers will cease bargaining with you as they will see you won't be buying from them (they see that this game never ends as well). You will be asked "What price will you buy the car from me and do I have your word that if I get you that deal then you will buy the car?" If you say "yes" then in all probability you won't be able to call back and haggle much more with them.
Good luck with the deal and remember use the actual MSRP to start from and not some dealer sticker.
A: is that a good deal?
B: WHEN WILL IT COME??? The dealer THINKS 8/24 then again they first said 8/17 at the end of July when I ordered it. What's the delay? I already sold my old car and I'm aching to get behind the wheel of this beauty. HELP
I am in same boat with you the only difference is I didn't trust my dealer and sell the car. Anyways my car is 14 years old and nobody is ready to touch it so that could be another reason why i got saved from dealer gimics. I am in NJ and no dealer in NJ area has received SL with tech pacakge. If you or anyone finds any SL with tech package in NJ please inform me here.
Also if you or anybody can shed some light on what are the next steps in pre-order process please let me know
You should shop around the trade in. I had a 2006 Civic coupe 5 speed with 40K miles and Nissan said they would give me 4K and a smaller local used car guy offered 7K, I ended up selling it privately to a friend for $8,250.
In addition, I got hosed with 4.9% rate for 36 months through NMAC. I going to pay it off in 90 days.
Does anyone know if I can mail in 3 equal payments over the next 90 days?
Or, must I pay the agreed amount for the first 2 months then pay off the remaining amount with the 3rd month payment?
Also, I never signed anything formally requiring me to NOT pay off my Nissan in 30 days. DO I risk small claims court if I pay off my loan in 30 days?
By the way, I was Tier 0 credit and they still nailed me with 4.9%.
PenFed is very picky about who they approve so make sure you have good credit history -- anyone can become a member by making a one-time donation
They also have a good credit card to use for gas purchases
What do you guys think of this? Anyone else recently price this vehicle? I dont know if I am gettin ripped off especially with 595 bank fee. Thank You